Off the shelf retail store screw-in LED and CFL bulb comparisons

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[SpideyManDan]

I've inspected all my burned out SILs and the LED segments themselves were working.
I could supply dc voltage to them, and they all lit up.
So it was the drivers that crapped out.

I assume that the more expensive SILs have better built drivers, with more expensive, but reliable components to drive the LED segments.
Perhaps a quality SIL, sacrifices some lm/Watts to have a longer lasting bulb?


Some bulbs are dimmable, some aren't, some bulbs are suitable for damp locations, some aren't, some bulbs are suitable for enclosed luminaries, some aren't.

It's all in the way the bulbs are designed, but they are all designed and tested with their globes on, so removing the globes can have different affects on the lifespan and safety of the bulbs.

Which ones seemed to crap out sooner?

 

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[SpideyManDan]

I'd rather have my low lm/watt Walmart bulbs that get hot as hell, than the more efficient Noma bulbs that last less than 6 months.

I'm still running my 5-6 year old Walmart bulbs.



[URL=https://i.postimg.cc/nh6FKfCt/20201218-234937.jpg]View Image[/url]



1 new 100 Watt Walmart bulb and 4 five year old 2700 K Walmart bulbs.
Just don't try to unscrew them while they're on.
They be HOT!!! Lol

Lol. I got wallyworld bulbs to and besides being a watt or two less efficient they seen to be nice leds. The chips themselves not only seem to be quality, but the sheer amount of them makes it so that no one chip is running high wattage. The only thing I don't like is they have the cattle prongs on then compared to my GE's that I found which are flush against the pcb.

Oh and i dont what you mean about the color temp. The soft whites are nice when winding down and not needing light for some seeing something specific like reading and the daylights are bright as hell and almost harsh when they are on by themselves especially at night.


I cant remember if I said this, but i have been reading through the entire thread lately and want to send a obligatory shout out to Blynx for starting the thread, terpene and you PCbuds for continuing the thread for these many years. Good shit everyone.

 

[SpideyManDan]

You know I forgot repuk as well, they contributed a bunch to the thread.

 

[PCBuds]

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[SpideyManDan]

Anyone tried any of the amazon socket splitters? I was going to be lazy and just get those instead if trying to do my own wiring, but there are so many options. I just wanted to get someones opinion on maybe ones they have tried. Thanks

 

[SpideyManDan]

f-e too.

He helped me a lot...

Shit, you right. Shout to f-e too any to anyone else that helped with the thread. There over 450 pages and I might have lost a few names in the mix lol.

 

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[SpideyManDan]

Shit, you right. Shout to f-e too any to anyone else that helped with the thread. There over 450 pages and I might have lost a few names in the mix lol.

Stay away from the cheap $2 eBay stuff.

The DiCUNO brand from Amazon is pretty good quality.



[URL=https://i.postimg.cc/Fzz36CLm/Screenshot-20201219-114749-Amazon-Shopping.jpg]View Image[/url]




Those sockets with socket extenders give you lots of adjustment possibilities.

You can beam up individual buds easily.




[URL=https://i.postimg.cc/Vv9vDj71/20201219-120420.jpg]View Image[/url]

I actually do have a 5 in 1 dicuno and I love it. I didnt know if I should stay away from the 7 in 1s or the cheaper 5 in 1s. You know the straight non-adjustable ones they have. Are they really cheap a d break a lot?

 

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[f2obsession]

Wow!

That's a really small number of leds!

What wattage and what lumen?

My "old" (bought more than a year ago) 20W (2452 lm) V-Tac bulb looks like this without the dome:

 

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[f-e]

Thanks for mention lads. I get quite a lot from this site to. At times I think nothing is happening but then find the most unlikely looking post a gold mine of information. I think there is something here for everybody, as we all look outside our own skill set, towards others pushing the envelope of theirs.


That Capacitor PC buds. The 250v 10uf labeled component. Does it have a 105c marking? it looks like a standard 85c black cap, which isn't really suited. The shrink wrap looks stressed at the disc end. That disc is worth a closer look. It's got the Y indentations to aid visual inspection. It should be very flat. When domed in any way you have problems. A sudden shock can chuck electrolyte out through one. While constant cooking is a more gradual swelling. This can be hard to spot.

There is really nothing else there to fail. Most of the chips will sense excess heat and lower the power. The cap was an electrolyte in it though. They dry. Without it smoothing the power, the chip may see the peaks and be regulation the power down as it see's this tall crests but not the dips, due to the lack of smoothing. Or the plates in the cap could be simply close to a short circuit as the fluid has migrated.

Caps are cheap. Maybe just cut it off and see if there is any change. If it's fubared fit a 105 or better still, a solid state cap. Not electrolytic.

 

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