E
ESTERCHASER
Is there any way to halt the pisitls from forming that late into flowering? these may make GREAT reveg or kingsbread lights, limey kingsbread is the bees knees
-
As of today ICMag has his own Discord server. In this Discord server you can chat, talk with eachother, listen to music, share stories and pictures...and much more. Join now and let's grow together! Join ICMag Discord here! More details in this thread here: here.
Off the shelf retail store screw-in LED and CFL bulb comparisons
- Thread starter blynx
- Start date
Like I just said the buds that were further from the lights did little if any of that late new flower growth.... mmmm tell me
more of this tasty sounding kingsbread, for I know nothing of it.
PCBuds
Well-known member
Perhaps warmer bulbs at 3,000-4,000 K reduce the chances of new growth.
(warm bulbs are fall color)
E
ESTERCHASER
maybe just using those for the last two or three weeks?
PCBuds
Well-known member
Yeah, that makes sense to me.
With SILs, I start with mostly daylight then switch to mostly soft white for flower.
IMO, the end of flowering pistils can be caused by multiple things; either individually or a combination of them.
As ScrogMonster noted, intensity can contribute to it. Ie, you see it on the buds right under the lights, but not down further.
The spectrum of light can also contribute to it. The more blue (5000k/6500k) in the spectrum, the more likely you are to see this.
Strain can be another factor. IMO, you will see this more on sativa/sativa hybrid than you will on indicas.
While I've seen people use all 3000k or 5000k or 6500k or a mix thereof. Has anyone here posted trying say 5000k for the first 6 or 7 weeks of flowering and switching to all 3000k for the last 2 or 3 weeks?
q3corn
Active member
Last few grows I did with SIL's I flowered under 28w of 2700k and 14w of 5000k, and definitely got that continuous growth that you guys are talking about. I was planning on flowering strictly under 2700k this next cycle, but maybe I can do 5000k until the last few weeks to experiment. You know, for research's sake.
noknees
Member
not quite, but all 5k until stretch stops--then all 2.7
suspect a side-by-side SOG grow (same cut) would be revealing.
looks tasty.
Nice work!!
E
ESTERCHASER
thats just your opinion.
That is exactly what IMO stands for; In my opinion.
I opened my statement with that and included it again in the body of my message.
I couldn't make it anymore obvious that post was my opinion except I guess using 'In my opinion' instead of IMO.
E
ESTERCHASER
Yeah im kinda leery of who to believe here and whom not to believe.
E
ESTERCHASER
IDK man ive just been around these cultivars since 1992 ...i dont have big long elaborate relationships overseas with folks, nor do i have a 50 page journal to refer too so i can ingratiate myself with breeders here to get a CHANCE at trying their gear without spending money(when i grew up money wasnt the catalyst that made it available)
I just let folks do their thing now, sit back and realize im just a chunk of perlite in the container ..........It is what it is.
I just let folks do their thing now, sit back and realize im just a chunk of perlite in the container ..........It is what it is.
I look at the info here as a guide; ie opinions and advice.
There is very little in growing that is absolute in correctness or the 'right way' or 'best way' due to the variety of environments we all have.
In my opinion, the best way to grow is to find the method that works for you in your area and grow room.
What works for me in my area might be the totally incorrect info for you in your area, but there might be others that have similar environments, habits, etc and my opinion/advice might work for them.
Unless you are the luckiest mf'er on earth, it takes trial and error. Through failures and successes, you learn and get knowledge through those experiences (good and bad).
In my opinion, this is how you will find what is 'best' and what is 'the right way' for you.
E
ESTERCHASER
Out of all the plants i grow cannabis is by far the top three easiest.
read n feel
read n feel
I read n feel my plants , observation = cause n effect.
Screw in led,s , colour temp effects become obvious.
Intensity ect .
read n feel
I read n feel my plants , observation = cause n effect.
Screw in led,s , colour temp effects become obvious.
Intensity ect .
Sylvania eco toledo A60 12.5w E27 4000k V2
Sylvania eco toledo A60 12.5w E27 4000k V2
I bought 100 of these LED 12.5w 1300 lumens
Took the plastic bulb off found 13 chips not the usual 24
I assume this is version 2
My question is does it mean double intensity chips, greater penetration less spread?.
I check the watts drawn on a meter = 12.5
Sylvania eco toledo A60 12.5w E27 4000k V2
I bought 100 of these LED 12.5w 1300 lumens
Took the plastic bulb off found 13 chips not the usual 24
I assume this is version 2
My question is does it mean double intensity chips, greater penetration less spread?.
I check the watts drawn on a meter = 12.5
Definitely chips are double the power (around 1W each), which will require greater distance to canopy vs previous version with 0.5W chips.
LED light AFAIK is mostly directional (120-180º), so spread/reflectors is not such an issue vs 360º light radiating sources like CFLs, HPS, etc.
