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Nomaad OD:2010
- Thread starter nomaad
- Start date
C
CityOfTrees530
nomaad extremely jealous of your set up, the green house is awesome and the girls look great. Looking forward to your grow and watching these mama's become full.
How are you planning on caging them for support, doing your bamboo idea again or have another plan?
I started off putting some heavy duty tomato cages around them for support and have bunch of nylon trellis i planned on using. Just trying to get some ideas
How are you planning on caging them for support, doing your bamboo idea again or have another plan?
I started off putting some heavy duty tomato cages around them for support and have bunch of nylon trellis i planned on using. Just trying to get some ideas
McDank: I have a person living in the garden all season. I have cameras all over the place and motion detectors on a separate system during flowering. I am also going to install a couple of motion activated flood lights at some main points of access. I am also considering a couple of geese... they make amazing security systems. Been considering a very well bred, well trained rottweiler as well... but I don't want to fuck with the pack dynamic we have going on right now with our dog. Its possible that there won't be any clueberry in this year's garden. I'll give them another few days to come out of shock, but unless they do so soon, they will not meet the standards for inclusion in my garden.
CoTs: really not positive about trellising methods yet. In the black boxes I am probably just going to use bamboo... on the full season mamas, I am toying with Butte's method but the same thing that put me off such a method last year (when I called it Steve's method) was the amount of metal involved. I think I am going to do multiple horizontal layers of hortinova netting... every 3 feet or so, supported on 6 bamboo poles mounted on thin rebar banged into the ground... and I'll do one wrap of hortinova around the whole thing at the width of my pots/posts. I think I am borrowing this method from a conversation I had with Tom Hill on one of his visits.
Anybody have any ideas on my cough conundrum?
CoTs: really not positive about trellising methods yet. In the black boxes I am probably just going to use bamboo... on the full season mamas, I am toying with Butte's method but the same thing that put me off such a method last year (when I called it Steve's method) was the amount of metal involved. I think I am going to do multiple horizontal layers of hortinova netting... every 3 feet or so, supported on 6 bamboo poles mounted on thin rebar banged into the ground... and I'll do one wrap of hortinova around the whole thing at the width of my pots/posts. I think I am borrowing this method from a conversation I had with Tom Hill on one of his visits.
Anybody have any ideas on my cough conundrum?
localhero
Member
What up Nomaad, just subscribed. looking awesome!
for the shocked clue why not cut a square of burlap and suport it over the plants with bamboo for a few days or so? that should take some stress off. try to put the burlap shade so that it shades the plant during peak uv hours.
I just put all my plants out. no hardening at all from under 1000w mh. we'll see how fucked i am lol. the most stressed looking ones i put the burlap over. checked the uv index after i transplanted and it was "very high"
for the shocked clue why not cut a square of burlap and suport it over the plants with bamboo for a few days or so? that should take some stress off. try to put the burlap shade so that it shades the plant during peak uv hours.
I just put all my plants out. no hardening at all from under 1000w mh. we'll see how fucked i am lol. the most stressed looking ones i put the burlap over. checked the uv index after i transplanted and it was "very high"
BotanicalBill
Member
localhero, if you don't mind please keep us or myself updated how they come out from those 1Ks. Our plan will be coming out from 1K HPS at about 4 feet tall June 1 with no hardening as well but that could be adjusted to less hours of direct light a day by putting them on the perimeter where it gets less direct light a day if I see you run into issues..
nomaad, everything looks great, wish I could give ya more praise than everyone has already given!
nomaad, everything looks great, wish I could give ya more praise than everyone has already given!
localhero
Member
well i can tell you one thing right away, dont veg with hps. well not unless you can transplant them frequently. i have 2 indoor flower rooms and a veg room. had to convert a flower room to veg room to prep for this seasons outdoor. thought, no biggie hps all hanging vertically should make them all skyrocket. well hps made them root bound as hell and now i have 15 3' tall what look like bonsai trees. the leaves all got smaller, trunks woody. their cloned sisters in the proper veg room under the 1000wmh look amazing, green flexible stems the whole 9.
I should say that due to space restrictions i didnt up pot from 2 gal pots. there was a time that i could have and should have but i didnt realize that the hps lights were what was causing the stress to the plants in the converted veg room. not until yesterday when i transplanted outdoors did i see the vast diference in root growth between vegging with mh vs. hps. all this time i was freaking out that something i did to the room to clean it before the conversion was what was causing the stress.
I know everyone, Nomaad included, preaches up potting and now i see why.
conclusion:
dont use hps to veg or the red spec will force rapid root growth and you will risk getting rootbound.
mh vegged plants are taller, greener and more flexible.
rootbound hps vegged plants are shorter, smaller leaved, woodier and tightly leaved.
anyone have any suggestions on how to undo my attempt at making bonsai pot plants? when i transplanted them yesterday i broke up the root bound mass and sprayed the root zone with org b vitamin to help with stress. should i deleaf?
I should say that due to space restrictions i didnt up pot from 2 gal pots. there was a time that i could have and should have but i didnt realize that the hps lights were what was causing the stress to the plants in the converted veg room. not until yesterday when i transplanted outdoors did i see the vast diference in root growth between vegging with mh vs. hps. all this time i was freaking out that something i did to the room to clean it before the conversion was what was causing the stress.
I know everyone, Nomaad included, preaches up potting and now i see why.
conclusion:
dont use hps to veg or the red spec will force rapid root growth and you will risk getting rootbound.
mh vegged plants are taller, greener and more flexible.
rootbound hps vegged plants are shorter, smaller leaved, woodier and tightly leaved.
anyone have any suggestions on how to undo my attempt at making bonsai pot plants? when i transplanted them yesterday i broke up the root bound mass and sprayed the root zone with org b vitamin to help with stress. should i deleaf?
I have shade cloth for hoophouses, but i don't think its heat or UV the Clueberry is shocking from... I think its is from being moved. They had roots coming out of the smartpots bottoms and into the pea gravel on the GH floor. When they got moved the first time last week, they began to shock. Regardless, I won't grow them. I have backups of plants that have never shocked... why go with the ones that did?
I veg with a combo of T5's (6500 color temp) and MH on light movers. Gives me lots of growth and I have not had a problem with bound roots yet. I try to pot up long before its needed. Smartpots buy me some time, but I have only just begun to use 2 gallon smarties in place of the plastic ones.
After my experience last season, where all my planst were rootbound before transplant into their final pots, I will never put much stock in a plant that has become rootbound... and NONE in one that has become severely rootbound. I would say, at least chop off the worst rootbound parts and get it into a very light soil mix. You might even consider putting an inch or two of pure perlite in the new pot that the transplant sits atop. But once you have the bonsai effect where the plant starts putting out smaller leaves, I'm not so sure I would want to have anything to do with that plant in a full season scenario.
I do have a couple of plants that got a little rootbound this year, but they are strains I want to run for personal reasons and don't have backups of them.
I think your b vitamin spray and breaking up the root mass is the best you can do. I always use B's on transplant... did they shock?
I veg with a combo of T5's (6500 color temp) and MH on light movers. Gives me lots of growth and I have not had a problem with bound roots yet. I try to pot up long before its needed. Smartpots buy me some time, but I have only just begun to use 2 gallon smarties in place of the plastic ones.
After my experience last season, where all my planst were rootbound before transplant into their final pots, I will never put much stock in a plant that has become rootbound... and NONE in one that has become severely rootbound. I would say, at least chop off the worst rootbound parts and get it into a very light soil mix. You might even consider putting an inch or two of pure perlite in the new pot that the transplant sits atop. But once you have the bonsai effect where the plant starts putting out smaller leaves, I'm not so sure I would want to have anything to do with that plant in a full season scenario.
I do have a couple of plants that got a little rootbound this year, but they are strains I want to run for personal reasons and don't have backups of them.
I think your b vitamin spray and breaking up the root mass is the best you can do. I always use B's on transplant... did they shock?
Layedback530
Member
I have a question about California growing locations that I've been wondering about lately. I live in pretty close to lake oroville. oroville/ chico which is pretty much prime farmland, sits at approx. 900 feet above sea level. The farmlands are flat and dry. Once you get to the lake area it starts going up into the sierra mountains. Where i sit, seems to be the perfect level for ideal farming. Now i was thinking about moving next year to the humbolt or mendo area. But why? I always think of humbolt being the best climate to grow, but it seems like the coastal areas would only offer more moisture in the air, and more rain... which isnt really ideal, right? what am i missing?
I know your area. Your growing conditions are as good if not better than what you might find in humboldt... Humboldt, like any mountainous area has many microclimates. Find the right one, and you're set. But if you already have a good spot, I am not so sure you need to be moving to the triangle.
Seems like your impulse to move to humboldt is based on the hype. Humboldt is a very permissive place to grow relative to other parts of CA and has therefor become the center of the culture along with mendo and trinity. Safety in numbers... Invisibility of 99's when there are cartels in them thar hills with 1000's... Lots of factors contribute to the tri-county area as growing mecca, but the absolutely perfect weather is not at the tippity top of the list.
You can bet your ass that when Monsanto starts growing herb some day they will do it in the Central Valley.
Check the big plant thread for a dioscussion on how altitude affects nug quality.
Seems like your impulse to move to humboldt is based on the hype. Humboldt is a very permissive place to grow relative to other parts of CA and has therefor become the center of the culture along with mendo and trinity. Safety in numbers... Invisibility of 99's when there are cartels in them thar hills with 1000's... Lots of factors contribute to the tri-county area as growing mecca, but the absolutely perfect weather is not at the tippity top of the list.
You can bet your ass that when Monsanto starts growing herb some day they will do it in the Central Valley.
Check the big plant thread for a dioscussion on how altitude affects nug quality.
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Layedback530
Member
Yes so much hype..
Thanks for answering the question, I didnt understand why when people would say "humbolt is the most optimal place in the world to grow marijuana!"
Just didnt make much sense climate-wise. Although the climate is pretty awesome.
Although i feel this spot is ideal, I would prefer to move closer to a community that is more grower-friendly like you said.
It would take at least 2 great reasons to move, climate upgrade and grower-friendliness could have been enough, but i will just stick around and hope for no unfriendly ordinances or regs to pop up.
Thanks for answering the question, I didnt understand why when people would say "humbolt is the most optimal place in the world to grow marijuana!"
Just didnt make much sense climate-wise. Although the climate is pretty awesome.
Although i feel this spot is ideal, I would prefer to move closer to a community that is more grower-friendly like you said.
It would take at least 2 great reasons to move, climate upgrade and grower-friendliness could have been enough, but i will just stick around and hope for no unfriendly ordinances or regs to pop up.
P
planty
climate zone 14 in nor cal is very friend to herb and actually is the best climate for growing it..plant early and harvest late and an elevation that is high but not too high
I have sampled great outdoor ganja from all over the place. Not to discount the great growing conditions in Humboldt. But in the end, the skill of the grower and the quality of their genetics is the overwhelming determining factor in the quality of ganja grown up here.
I'm not kidding when I say I may move to SoHum next year. Politically, its the county most willingly embracing their heritage for growing good mary jane. Who knows what will happen with the Lake Co. ordinance. I may have to head for the hills. I love the redwoods like (almost) no other place, too.
My favorite outdoor from last year was fisher's chems after about a 2.5 month cure. That was the stash I took to Tahoe in feb. I won't blow his location, but it is far from Humboldt.
One day, when (if?) ganja is marketed like wine, things like the location and altitude they were grown at will be a big part of the marketing paradigm. A lot of it will be hooey... You'll still want to by Chateau Planty Bomb Threat or Casa Nomaad Reserva 2011 because of the way it tastes, smells and cures your ills. You may try another brand because it was grown close to where another brand you like is grown or in similar conditions, but that doesn't mean one will live up to the other.
I'm not kidding when I say I may move to SoHum next year. Politically, its the county most willingly embracing their heritage for growing good mary jane. Who knows what will happen with the Lake Co. ordinance. I may have to head for the hills. I love the redwoods like (almost) no other place, too.
My favorite outdoor from last year was fisher's chems after about a 2.5 month cure. That was the stash I took to Tahoe in feb. I won't blow his location, but it is far from Humboldt.
One day, when (if?) ganja is marketed like wine, things like the location and altitude they were grown at will be a big part of the marketing paradigm. A lot of it will be hooey... You'll still want to by Chateau Planty Bomb Threat or Casa Nomaad Reserva 2011 because of the way it tastes, smells and cures your ills. You may try another brand because it was grown close to where another brand you like is grown or in similar conditions, but that doesn't mean one will live up to the other.
I think this guy just nailed it, gg .. If the cough is breaking your stride throw it in the light dep for ur own personal headstash and optimize the rest of your space homie.
I know, I know... but if I go that route, i'd just chuck a couple of plants in the first light dep. What he is advocating is a late season lite dep. I pull tarp on a bunch of small cough plants starting in early august once the first light deps come down.
problem there is that in early August, for all I know, the Cough would already be flowering... so unless I do a 13 week black box (not leaving the last half of it to natural lite cycles) I may not be rushing it along at all. Pulling tarp is Ok till it gets humid and rainy... then you're just asking for headaches.
I think the most workable way to handle this is to prepare a couple of Cough mom's and take cuttings in time to have them the right size by the time black boxes Come down. I'll put 20-25 smaller cough plants in the greenhouse in small enough pots so that I can place them on heating mats... been looking at some different systems. Anyhow... I will supplement light on cloudy days with HPS and movers and keep them warm and harvest a GH full of that shit... by christmas.
Y'see, I don't just want head stash of this strain. I want people to be able to have access to this medicine and I have promised not to proliferate the clone. If you are going to run a 13 week strain, you might as well do it right.
Oh... Speaking of strains that I really want to run... I was just gifted a cut of the Shire. Sour pheno of the SSSDH. Also, the Diablo Kush and a SCBB. I don't know where these babies will wind up... most likely the late season replacements... though who knows... I probably want to run only strains I know will finish in time.
Obviously, things change on a day to day basis... my plans, my knowledge base. Today, an hour after posting that I had no intention of working on my watering system till after planting was done, I had a visit from HumboldtLocal and we crunched out my plan with a little help from the dripworks website. Thanks, bro... always a pleasure to hang with you.
problem there is that in early August, for all I know, the Cough would already be flowering... so unless I do a 13 week black box (not leaving the last half of it to natural lite cycles) I may not be rushing it along at all. Pulling tarp is Ok till it gets humid and rainy... then you're just asking for headaches.
I think the most workable way to handle this is to prepare a couple of Cough mom's and take cuttings in time to have them the right size by the time black boxes Come down. I'll put 20-25 smaller cough plants in the greenhouse in small enough pots so that I can place them on heating mats... been looking at some different systems. Anyhow... I will supplement light on cloudy days with HPS and movers and keep them warm and harvest a GH full of that shit... by christmas.
Y'see, I don't just want head stash of this strain. I want people to be able to have access to this medicine and I have promised not to proliferate the clone. If you are going to run a 13 week strain, you might as well do it right.
Oh... Speaking of strains that I really want to run... I was just gifted a cut of the Shire. Sour pheno of the SSSDH. Also, the Diablo Kush and a SCBB. I don't know where these babies will wind up... most likely the late season replacements... though who knows... I probably want to run only strains I know will finish in time.
Obviously, things change on a day to day basis... my plans, my knowledge base. Today, an hour after posting that I had no intention of working on my watering system till after planting was done, I had a visit from HumboldtLocal and we crunched out my plan with a little help from the dripworks website. Thanks, bro... always a pleasure to hang with you.
Layedback530
Member
How do you go about adjusting your pH from a drip irrigation system? I see how to use fertilizer injectors here, but seem to be missing the part where it would readjust pH afterwards..?
