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I'm looking forward to seeing what you come up with.
Perhaps a simple step by step tutorial for those of us hoping to get into the game.
Hey gang, just tossing this out....
How about if you put your packet into the oven at about 100F or 150F for a few minutes (maybe 10) right before putting it in the press.
Just wondering if that would make anything better (or worse).
How about if you put your packet into the oven at about 100F or 150F for a few minutes (maybe 10) right before putting it in the press.
Just wondering if that would make anything better (or worse).
I think this would darken your extract.
vitamingreeninc
Member
So should I do Dry-Ice extraction and then Rosin that? I feel like this would be the most effiecient way because you can then use the leftover bud for edibles/green dragon, and the yield is CLEARLy better with hash as the starting material
^this. Let's say I have a half pound of small nuggets and really nice trim. What is the most efficient process (time and energy) to convert this material to a dabbable concentrate? I'm guessing tumbling or water hash to remove as much plant material as possible and then a low heat, high pressure press to refine the hash to rosin.
I definitely have a washing machine and bags, but no tumbler. If you are looking at this from a harvest perspective, the tumbler and the water hash probably have similar timetables if you are doing fresh frozen water hash compared to dried/cured kief.
Well, this worked awesome. If you are heating your plates in the oven or with a heat gun, I highly suggest this method.
I only did one plate as a prototype so I will change a number of things on the final project.
First, I'll probably use aluminum. Maybe stainless.
And, I will try to isolate the plates from the arbor press so heat isn't lost to the press. I'll also solder it instead of epoxy.
I have a top plate that attaches to the ram arm of the arbor press with a set screw. However, I noticed that when I set the press in the position shown in the last pic during heat-up, the ram heats up just fine without a top heated plate.
I'll also swap out this arbor press with a pump jack.
However, for achieving the simple task of heating whatever type of plates you are using, these thermistors are working great.
I only did one plate as a prototype so I will change a number of things on the final project.
First, I'll probably use aluminum. Maybe stainless.
And, I will try to isolate the plates from the arbor press so heat isn't lost to the press. I'll also solder it instead of epoxy.
I have a top plate that attaches to the ram arm of the arbor press with a set screw. However, I noticed that when I set the press in the position shown in the last pic during heat-up, the ram heats up just fine without a top heated plate.
I'll also swap out this arbor press with a pump jack.
However, for achieving the simple task of heating whatever type of plates you are using, these thermistors are working great.
Attachments
Ringo how thick are your plates? I think you could wire in a thermostat easily.
Sunfire first it was pot snobs, now it is color snobs. I have to wonder about the taste, folks always say even though it is darker it is flavorful. I tried making a little rosin from a bud and it is lighter in color. I have also read that water hash makes lighter rosin, but making it straight out of the tumbler is so much easier.
Sunfire first it was pot snobs, now it is color snobs. I have to wonder about the taste, folks always say even though it is darker it is flavorful. I tried making a little rosin from a bud and it is lighter in color. I have also read that water hash makes lighter rosin, but making it straight out of the tumbler is so much easier.
The plate I used for this test was a standard steel electrical box cover I had laying around so it's about 2 or 3 mm thick. Just about the worst choice I could have made but it was all I had laying around.
I am headed to Home Depot to pick up a brass kick plate for a door. That should give me about 8 or 10 inches x 20 to 24 inches worth of metal to work with. Brass will heat better than anything else that's readily available. Hopefully, it's thick enough.
I am thinking about using a simple silicone baking pad as an insulator between the heated plates and the press. That's going to absorb some of the pressure but with a 2 ton press, I don't think it will matter.
As far as temperature control and monitoring, I have found a number of schematics that I can breadboard in seconds.
I am still looking at tire vulcanizers. They have a number of small ones I like.
In the end, after all the experiments, prototypes and testing is done, I'll mount whatever I have to work horizontally and start dripping some rosin. I smoked that quarter I made already. LOL This stuff burns pretty fast in my Glacier.
Low temperature well made flower heat press is super light colored in my experience, at least as light as the same thing derived with butane, if not even a shade lighter.
First of all, thanks for this very interesting topic.
Has anybody considered using air or steam to blow the rosin out instead of only using mechanical pressure? Kind of what is done with essential oil distilling.
I would think that after heating a (pre-pressed) nugget, you should be able to use steam or heated air to press the rosin out.
Has anybody considered using air or steam to blow the rosin out instead of only using mechanical pressure? Kind of what is done with essential oil distilling.
I would think that after heating a (pre-pressed) nugget, you should be able to use steam or heated air to press the rosin out.
I keep asking or saying that. evenn just a normal iron with the steamer might go good.
We are already doing that. Pressing a bud with terpenes and moisture in it makes steam and heated air to carry the product out. Some terpenes act as solvents in the process allowing a cooler steam distillation than one would think.
The site doesn't give much of a description. Why is this one so bad ass?
