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New extraction technique? Rosin tech?

Hashmasta-Kut

honey oil addict
Veteran
I bought a soil grown stamp and i wasn't too happy with it. So I went back to collecting with a glass pencil dabber by sherbert. Very interested in the roller, especially since I wanted a roller to thin out slabs anyways. Do you have a function vid of collecting and removing the rosin using the glass roller? I'll be sending you a DM on instagram shortly

#edenhighcentre has some action shots. If i have a super soft extract, I will gently remove most of it with a razor, then roller it up.
 

20sackzack

Member
Hey Hashmasta-Kut thanks for sharing all your rosin secrets with us. This thread was a long read but super interesting.

I wanted to show off the hmk press I built. I tried getting the plates to stay by melting them into to rubber but they just kept getting loose. So I drilled 4 holes near the jaws and used silver jewelry wire to wrap and attach them. I threaded through the little metal tab with a hole on the back. And in the front I did three wraps in the groove between the plastic and metal. That way the jaws can still close completely without a gap. Hope that makes sense. It's solid now and has been squeezing out some delicious golden goo. Thanks Hmk!

omft3.jpg


1orgrd.jpg
 
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droopy1211

New member
I remember about 30-40 posts back someone posted about using empty tea bags to fill with sift when pressing rosin instead of folding the sift into a square in a micron pressing screen. I've been folding it up in the pressing screen, and it just takes me a while to get it all nice and packed, would be a lot easier to just fill up an empty tea pouch. Was wondering what you guys are using to prep your sift/kief for rosin?
 
For the HMK Press, how are you guys adhering the plates to the clamp besides foil tape, since that's temporary? I tried JB Weld and the plates popped right off, the JB Weld didn't adhere to the aluminum at all :( I also tried silicone tape, but forgot that when they press together, the silicone presses together and seals, that was fun to try to pull apart lol. Looking for some advice.
 

heady blunts

prescription blunts
Veteran
if you've got an irwin you can melt the back of the hair iron plates into the plastic pads as thirdeyevision first showed on this thread several months ago.

there's no tutorial you just gotta be willing to try it out and potentially fuck it up.

take apart your hair iron (safely, don't do this if you can't diy stuff). take all the plastic brackets etc off your hot plates. they should be metal plates with a raised slot on the back where the heating elements fit in. those ridges are gonna bite into the plastic and set deeply into the pads.

get it all positioned while it's off, then clamp down lightly but firmly. turn the iron all the way to it's highest setting and let it get nice and hot for a couple minutes. once it reaches the right temp, start increasing pressure slowly. the plates will melt into the pads.

make sure they stay flush and even during this process. when they are fully set, use a screw driver or a chop stick to carefully push the soft plastic into the ridges on the edges of your hot plates and over the top edge of the plate to prevent it from shifting over time.

now let it cool completely.

when you use your press for rosin the temperatures should be far below the melting temp for the plastic, so it stays quite secure in my experience.

hth.
 

Lyfespan

Active member
i took the pads off, measured the distance between the channels on the heating elements and i put screws into the clamp as wide as the channels leaving them out as needed so i could slide the elements over the screws
 

heady blunts

prescription blunts
Veteran
i took the pads off, measured the distance between the channels on the heating elements and i put screws into the clamp as wide as the channels leaving them out as needed so i could slide the elements over the screws

i saw a pic of this on IG pretty slick!
 

20sackzack

Member
Thanks for the compliments WaxyTaxi and hmk! Hey heady are the plastic pads on the Irwin a harder/firm plastic? The pads on my dewalt are a fairly soft rubber so the conair plates I have (they don't really have any channel or lips on the back to bite in) never wanted to really stay in place forever when I just melted them in. Btw I love your thread heady, definitely one of my favs on here!
 
I took the pads off and tried to JB weld the aluminum coated ceramic heating elements straight to the hard plastic of the DWALT 600lb clamp and they fell right off, no JB weld on the aluminum at all, all of it on the plastic. Need to figure out an alternative solution, but with the high heat (the back only gets to 190F when the front is at 280F) I can't figure it out. I have the Remington 2" pink model, so it has no screws. I think tomorrow I'll just go buy the conair since it goes lower and get some U-bolt's and try to adhere it that way through the existing holes. I'll take apart the conair before going to the hardware store. Picture of said fail:
picture.php
 

D-Rel1990

New member
rosin tech

rosin tech

hello friends,
From the experimenting ive done with the different types of cannabis (flower,bubble,Keif) pressure seems to be the most important then nice even heat for me ive been doing my bubble around 250F with a hair straighter and depending on the bubble ill stillget a 40-50% return. I havent been having much luck with pressing flower but im working on investing for a heavy duty press cause rite now i just have the straightener. I feel when it comes to flower some strains really press well and some just dont but that could also be cause idont have the rite pressure needed. im very interested in this thread so i hope it keeps going ill work on getting some pictures i just havent taken any yet.
 

heady blunts

prescription blunts
Veteran
CG---

looks like you could mount it the way lyfespan described.

get some flat head screws that fit in the channels on the back of the plates. drive them into the plastic squares on the press where you want to attach the plates, leaving about a 1/4" unscrewed. then slide the grooves on the back of your plates over the screw heads. adjust as needed for a secure fit.

wish i could find a pic for you but the one i was thinking of was DM'd to me and i can't share it.
 

Lyfespan

Active member
I took the pads off and tried to JB weld the aluminum coated ceramic heating elements straight to the hard plastic of the DWALT 600lb clamp and they fell right off, no JB weld on the aluminum at all, all of it on the plastic. Need to figure out an alternative solution, but with the high heat (the back only gets to 190F when the front is at 280F) I can't figure it out. I have the Remington 2" pink model, so it has no screws. I think tomorrow I'll just go buy the conair since it goes lower and get some U-bolt's and try to adhere it that way through the existing holes. I'll take apart the conair before going to the hardware store. Picture of said fail: View Image

in this picture you can see the element has a raised center section that is .75in, if you drill 3/32 holes it to the clamp head at 1.0in wide you will be able to screw the screws into the clamp, dont screw them all the way down but leave them up enough for you to slide the element over the screw heads. i see you already found the black insulators slide off and on so you can see where the screws also slide at.
 

Lyfespan

Active member
i used the foil tape as shims, it stunk the first few presses, but fuck it. i also sawed the plastic pieces to create housings for the control crap, i cut and extended the wires and clamped my 3' clamp between some benches for a permanent station in my shop

IMG_0735.jpg
 

Lyfespan

Active member
CG---

looks like you could mount it the way lyfespan described.

get some flat head screws that fit in the channels on the back of the plates. drive them into the plastic squares on the press where you want to attach the plates, leaving about a 1/4" unscrewed. then slide the grooves on the back of your plates over the screw heads. adjust as needed for a secure fit.

wish i could find a pic for you but the one i was thinking of was DM'd to me and i can't share it.

yeah he could thats he has the remmington heaters
 
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Lyfespan

Active member
i used the foil tape as shims, it stunk the first few presses, but fuck it. i also sawed the plastic pieces to create housings for the control crap, i cut and extended the wires and clamped my 3' clamp between some benches for a permanent station in my shop

View attachment 341405

btw it seemed that it was meant to go like this, there was a channel on top of the clamp for the plastic body to be zipped down , and a notch for the other housing on the side so it could be zipped.

i build and create a lot of shit people i have worked in several mechanical positions, from machine shops to the oil patch, construction to sewing, like some of you im real crafty at this shit. also there is a much better press being made and sold for about 300 bux even comes with shaped dies. yes both top and bottom are heated too, 5000 pounds of down force, there's another that's like the hardpressco but this one is pneumatic and only has one hydraulic ram. i have found several platen manufactures, oh yeah that's what these pressing heaters are called should you so desire to search for them. for making my own larger press, i was going to look into making one but fuck it stoners are cheap asses, i have invested enough in growing for them, thats enough on my part. top of the food chain for me
 

Lyfespan

Active member
I took the pads off and tried to JB weld the aluminum coated ceramic heating elements straight to the hard plastic of the DWALT 600lb clamp and they fell right off, no JB weld on the aluminum at all, all of it on the plastic. Need to figure out an alternative solution, but with the high heat (the back only gets to 190F when the front is at 280F) I can't figure it out. I have the Remington 2" pink model, so it has no screws. I think tomorrow I'll just go buy the conair since it goes lower and get some U-bolt's and try to adhere it that way through the existing holes. I'll take apart the conair before going to the hardware store. Picture of said fail: View Image

oh for my screw design to work , your clamp jaws must be at least 1.25 in wide
 

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