OP is asking for help not someone to take guess, bro.
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My plants have been listen too much to Yellow Submarine by Beatles :(
- Thread starter bondemand
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OP is asking for help not someone to take guess, bro.
Switcher56
Comfortably numb!
I thought I was doing that, frig it!
Growenhaft
Active member
he drives 100% the lightmix scheme. has repotted 2-3 times. is in the end pot at 10l with lightmix soil. vegi were 6 weeks. Lightening started shortly after the stretch from the bottom up. plant overall vital, healthy and without leaf damage. what does that tell you as a biobizz grower?
While I did post earlier, that from what I could see N research would be a good starting point, new pics show it not to be the case. Having additional details such as the reddening.
It seems a little off topic, but many organic growers think they have some bio thing going on where they feed the herd, but in fact have pots far to small, that get exhausted so they turn to immediately available nutrients in a bottle, harvested from as organic a source as is reasonable. A big clue is when the bottle has the NPK wrote on it. Often some of the N is in a form that needs microlife to convert it, but to say that's feeding the microlife is a bit... thin. A 10L pot isn't going to support much being fed on teas and sugars. So biobizz plant food with it's hydro like figures has to be used(or some other brand, but it's plant food)
Edit: Most of these feeds also contain something for the herd, but it's almost marketing.
It seems a little off topic, but many organic growers think they have some bio thing going on where they feed the herd, but in fact have pots far to small, that get exhausted so they turn to immediately available nutrients in a bottle, harvested from as organic a source as is reasonable. A big clue is when the bottle has the NPK wrote on it. Often some of the N is in a form that needs microlife to convert it, but to say that's feeding the microlife is a bit... thin. A 10L pot isn't going to support much being fed on teas and sugars. So biobizz plant food with it's hydro like figures has to be used(or some other brand, but it's plant food)
Edit: Most of these feeds also contain something for the herd, but it's almost marketing.
Growenhaft
Active member
finally someone who understood biobizz.
biobizz means correct pot volume. and fertilize with every watering. ph should not be adjusted. at biobizz that is the combination of soil and fertilizer. this means that the medium also has its full buffer effect right up to the end. Even tap water with ph 8 buffers the earth if the pot volume is correct.
the lightmix is better suited for automatic plants. the allmix the favored soil for regular plants.
Here we have pots that have 40% too little volume. and there is an organically light soil in the pot. logical conclusion ... after the stretch the floor is thin and there are no fronts. with biobizz under these conditions it is very difficult to compensate for a deficiency.
In this situation, only pouring pure water is the stupidest thing that can be recommended.
biobizz means correct pot volume. and fertilize with every watering. ph should not be adjusted. at biobizz that is the combination of soil and fertilizer. this means that the medium also has its full buffer effect right up to the end. Even tap water with ph 8 buffers the earth if the pot volume is correct.
the lightmix is better suited for automatic plants. the allmix the favored soil for regular plants.
Here we have pots that have 40% too little volume. and there is an organically light soil in the pot. logical conclusion ... after the stretch the floor is thin and there are no fronts. with biobizz under these conditions it is very difficult to compensate for a deficiency.
In this situation, only pouring pure water is the stupidest thing that can be recommended.
After reading through the thread again, OP is clearly underwatering his plants. I made a mistake in my last post, looking back, he is only feeding 0.5L every 2-3 days, which is definitely not enough. He should atleast be watering minimum 1L every other day once in flower
3 gallon / 11L buckets.. Have been water ing around 0,4-0,5L every 2nd or 3rd day.. Mostly 2nd day
Next grow Will be the autopots for sure haha.
He also hasnt mentioned how much nutrients ml per L that hes using. My initial suspicion was as window posted at the start, hes probably dropped the grow and only fed bloom and topmax since switching to flower. Which explains why his plants started to lighten up, 2-3 weeks in to 12/12 after he has cut the grow out. However that is speculation as OP hasnt mentioned how much he has been feeding.
As Tom Hill has said, it’s not about container size but watering intervals
Sure, you get smaller yields with smaller pots but it’s idiotic to claim you can’t grow in small pots. How could my plant in 3.5 liters of soil run out of nutrients if i’m feeding with BioBizz bottle nutes every day? You don't make any sense. ...and i'm giving it plain water once a week.
The soil isn't going to run out of nutrients if you give the plants plain water once a week, genius. For a 12 week soil-grow i stop feeding the plant Grow and Bloom after week 7 and there is no fade on the leaves for the next week and a half and the plant keeps flowering just fine. Even after that the fade is fairly slow cause the soil holds on nutrients much longer than you seem to think it does.Soil is a "buffer" ay, just like you said yourself.
It’s also nonsense to say you need BioBizz Allmix-soil to grow normal cannabis plants. I use common super market potting soil for house plants and cannabis grows just fine in it.
Here’s my Afghan Kush in 3,5 liters of super market potting soil for house plants again...why isn’t it yellowing and running out of nutrients??! According to you it should, ay. Even the bottom leaves aren't yellowing at all.
In post #42 OP says he/she is following BioBizz feeding chart with Grow and Bloom, so what are you on about?
You’re talking with yourself here. I'll leave you to it, you're doing a great job thinking you're the greatest, Michael Schenker
Growenhaft
Active member
they cannot do more than insult. just look at your plants. completely underdeveloped flower systems.
you have my sympathy, you can call me what you want. I do not hold anything against them, it is difficult enough for them.
you can also grow real beasts in 0.2l. but not with biobizz. That is also the reason why you regularly re-fertilize with canna and also need Epsom salt. that would not happen to you if the pot volume was adjusted correctly. because the main focus of the food must first be prepared organically. this requires space for soil life and roots. a completely different story than with mineral fertilizers. but not organic enough to only be able to pour water.
With the right pot size and irrigation technology and fertilization scheme, biobizz is an absolute self-runner. you will not suffer a shortage or problems in any phase if the climate is within a decent framework and the light provides a lot of nourishment.
i want to say around 85% of all german-speaking growers start with biobizz. the german forums were full of contributions. You can still find many today at grower.ch and cannabisanbauen.de. Unfortunately, the really good forums such as c.at and hanfburg opencannabis no longer exist. if you look around in the forums at grow reports. you will find many who drive with 150% of the given scheme, most of them with 11l pots. those who use the 15l allemix can stay below the scheme. it is only 4 liters more of earth, but it makes a world of nutrients.
every cultivation method has its specialty. pour coco with drain, dwc with air pump, etc. with biobizz the specialty is to choose the right pot volume. That doesn't mean that it is not possible with smaller pots, but they just look like yours. small buds. bad flower / leaf ratio. unhealthy finger spreads and lots of 3-5-fingered leaves where there should be 7-9-fingered ones. the coloring of the leaves is only maintained by minerals. an absolute no go in organic cultivation. it's like blowing your wife blue eyes and putting make-up on her to cover it up. but the blue eye still sits under the make-up.
what you haven't understood until today. it's much harder to kill hemp. somehow it will always bloom to the end. even if there are almost no available nutrients available. but that shouldn't be in a grower's interest. our goal should be to achieve the best possible result. And you can do this more easily if you don't force your will on your plants, but rather respond to their needs. you have to compromise between what you want and what your plant needs. do you do that is fun growing.
you have my sympathy, you can call me what you want. I do not hold anything against them, it is difficult enough for them.
you can also grow real beasts in 0.2l. but not with biobizz. That is also the reason why you regularly re-fertilize with canna and also need Epsom salt. that would not happen to you if the pot volume was adjusted correctly. because the main focus of the food must first be prepared organically. this requires space for soil life and roots. a completely different story than with mineral fertilizers. but not organic enough to only be able to pour water.
With the right pot size and irrigation technology and fertilization scheme, biobizz is an absolute self-runner. you will not suffer a shortage or problems in any phase if the climate is within a decent framework and the light provides a lot of nourishment.
i want to say around 85% of all german-speaking growers start with biobizz. the german forums were full of contributions. You can still find many today at grower.ch and cannabisanbauen.de. Unfortunately, the really good forums such as c.at and hanfburg opencannabis no longer exist. if you look around in the forums at grow reports. you will find many who drive with 150% of the given scheme, most of them with 11l pots. those who use the 15l allemix can stay below the scheme. it is only 4 liters more of earth, but it makes a world of nutrients.
every cultivation method has its specialty. pour coco with drain, dwc with air pump, etc. with biobizz the specialty is to choose the right pot volume. That doesn't mean that it is not possible with smaller pots, but they just look like yours. small buds. bad flower / leaf ratio. unhealthy finger spreads and lots of 3-5-fingered leaves where there should be 7-9-fingered ones. the coloring of the leaves is only maintained by minerals. an absolute no go in organic cultivation. it's like blowing your wife blue eyes and putting make-up on her to cover it up. but the blue eye still sits under the make-up.
what you haven't understood until today. it's much harder to kill hemp. somehow it will always bloom to the end. even if there are almost no available nutrients available. but that shouldn't be in a grower's interest. our goal should be to achieve the best possible result. And you can do this more easily if you don't force your will on your plants, but rather respond to their needs. you have to compromise between what you want and what your plant needs. do you do that is fun growing.
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I just can’t keep myself away...
There’s quite a contradiction when you advise people to read the plant needs and “not to force their will on the plant” (LOL Very philosophical.) but then you constantly recommend people to give 130-150% of BioBizz feeding chart.
Don’t you realize that some genetics are very nutrient sensitive like Hazes and landraces?
What will happen to Haze hybrids like Nev’s Haze and G13Haze if you give them 150% of BioBizz feed?
Many Hazes and Landrace sativas like low feed and low nitrogen levels.
The Afghan Kush i’m growing atm is a re-pro of an Afghan landrace collected in the valleys of Amu Darya river in North Afghanistan and seems to do well with low feed levels as expected.
As an example Mandala Seeds recommend you feed their landrace hybrids with EC of 1.0-1.2, which is less than 50% of BioBizz feeding chart.
The more you write the more ignorant you look.
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From Mandala Seeds’ website:
https://www.mandalaseeds.com/FAQ#H1
“Which EC do you recommend?
Use an EC at the low-medium range (i.e. EC 1.0-1.6 mS/cm or 1000-1600 µS/cm). This recommendation is based on a starting EC of 0.4-0.5 mS/cm of your water. Adjust accordingly if your water has a very different EC and consider purifying your water if the EC is high. During flowering most Mandala strains can be grown with approx. 1.0-1.2 mS/cm or 1000-1200 µS/cm. The best EC for your hydroponic setup has to be determined by yourself through practice and observation. There is no standard guideline.”
Growenhaft
Active member
this question alone shows that you have not yet fully understood biobizz. it is purely organic, only very few nutrients are directly available, the rest is all food for the soil. and the soil then makes the fodder for the plant. the fertilizer provides food and stability for the soil, nothing more and nothing less.
Organic nutrients are much lower in concentration than mineral ones.
you need a lot more root mass to be able to absorb the same concentration. All of this happens through the root hairs, which enter into a symbiosis with fungi and bacteria, and only through this can absorb nutrients.
so that the roots can expand with enough space to absorb nutrients, you have to offer them in organic cultivation.
you should know all this after 10 years of biobizz.
You seem to live with the illusion that because BioBizz are organic nutrients that you can’t over feed plants with them cause plants use from the soil what they need. You have no idea what you’re talking about. Yes you can over feed plants with BioBizz, I’ve done it myself ..too many times, and i don't feed my plants even 50% of BioBizz feed chart.
Even 1ml/L too much of BioBizz nutrients will make the smoke below optimal. Noticeably.
Your problem seems to be; you don’t actually know what over fed cannabis plant is. You’re just like half of the growers on the internet and you think you’re supposed to PUSH you plants with nutrients as much as they can take with out getting leaf burn. Big mistake.
Cannabis plant can be over fed even if you won’t see much tip burn on them, but you don’t seem to be aware of this.
You won’t get a good smoking product this way; the flower will be harsh to smoke.
If you’re gonna feed your plants with 150% BioBizz feed the smoke will be shit. Even with 100% feed, cause it’s too much for cannabis as i have stated. It’s too much for tomatoes, it’s too much for chillis. You’re clueless.
I grow Marijuana, a smoking product. You grow for bio mass yield cause you have no idea what good marijuana is supposed to be.
Keep coughing while smoking that over fed crap you’re growing, professor.
You can use biobizz in coco. You have to increase he dose about 25% as nothing comes from the soil. Just as with smaller pots of soil.
Most people buy soil that's been composting for months. Use up it's reserves until all they are getting is what the microherd are producing that day. Which isn't enough in 10L buckets. So they use bottled feeds like biobizz. The smaller their bucket, the more biobizz they need. That is what you are seeing.
In something like 30L you can keep the herd healthy enough to compost the days feed requirement. The herd doesn't want plant food though. It produces that as waste. It's bio teas and sugars.
Run a small pot of compost dry and the herd is depleted. Only the best balanced of feeds will then work as you have gone hydro. Biobizz is that well balanced. It works in coco. However it's not wonderful in coco. It does expect some input from the soil. So the smallest of elemental quantities are not balanced quite right for hydro. It's mixed for a decent soil. It likely has little Ca which is a big EC influence. Soil is primarily calcium, so why add it. Other things also exist in soils that just need to be there, but may be barely used. Adding a full dose more each feed isn't right. There are expectations placed upon the soil which dead soil will not meet.
I'm going to suggest that along with better watering, the microherd could be bolstered with more relatives from a little packet. With some food for them, such as seaweed or plant based black goo. That would get you back on track very quickly if your herd is depleted and perhaps, therefore, not the happy balance of good and bad it once was.
Once the compost is good, the feed can work good. The idea of using more may follow.
Nobody here is entirely wrong. Unless its me
Growenhaft
Active member
hey hiho, let's see what biobizz support says about it.
Question: Everyone knows that charts are just an avarage and every plant is different. But let’s say the values given are indeed an avarage of nutes to use and let’s say we’d have a plant that has an avarage tolerance to nutrients. Would it be a good idea to really use all the products all together at full dose during an entire grow? Isn’t using all products all together making the solution a bit too hot for the plants? Or would this actually be very beneficial? Noeone on forums can tell because nobody has yet used them all, not that I know.
Answer: So, a super interesting topic! Good you askJ First of all : the Grow schedule is not the bible. It is a general guideline that gives the maximum dosages and when to start using which product, or when to stop. If you would use all products at the same time you do not need to worry that much, since you are only using maximum to NPK products: Bio-grow or Fish-Mix and Bio-Bloom. All other products are stimulators that compliment the nutrients, improve assimilation, metabolism, chlorophyll production etc etc etc.
We try to give a divers menu to the plants. If you want to live healthy, you do not eat a hamburger with a hamburger and a hamburger for desert. You’d eat a hamburger, with a salad, some orange juice, a yogurt or cheese for desert and maybe a small digestive afterwards. This is the function of the stimulators: Root-juice, Bio-Heaven, Top-max, Alg-a-Mic and Acti-vera.
Try to see it like this: You use as a basis Bio-grow or Fish-Mix and Bio-Bloom. The stimulators are your tools to guide your plants into the direction you want to go, or enrich them. You make the menu for your plants, depending on the type of plants, their age, the moment in the cycle and of course the type of genetics. Here some key caracters of the stimulators:
Root-juice: besides a root stimulator, it protects the roots again the most common root diseases and protects against over feeding
Alg-a-Mic: repairs damage from overfeeding, boost calcium and magnesium assimilation, boost production of chlorophyll
Top-max: improves density of the flowers and stimulates natural sugar production ( taste improvement )
Bio-heaven: accelerates flowering, boosts mineral assimilation,
Acti-Vera: improves metabolism, full of essential enzymes and amazing for seeds that have just hatched. Aloë vera rules!
Some people simply use all products at the same time. But as soon as you know your favorite genetics inside-out, you use the stimulators as supplements at the moment you think the plants need it.
Question: Presuming we would be sticking to the official chart, should we be feeding nutrients every time we water the plants or alternate water with nutes? People actually argue about how long it takes for the nutrients to become active in the soil and how long it takes for the plant to react to nutrient changes. Some say it takes up to 3 days which then implies a bit of ‚thinking‘ ahead. If it takes that long, alternating nutes and plain water would be really counter-productive. The question is about the built up in the soil. There’s lots of rumors around this as well.
Answer: We prefer you give water with Biobizz every time you water the plants. If you switch between just clear water one time and water with nutrients the second time, you’ll have every time different Ec/pH levels. Every time the plants need to adjust.
Indeed, the organic material in Biobizz products needs time to decompose inside the soil. About 30% is available immediately, the rest becomes available in 1-3 days maximum.
What you can do is this: you start with 50% of the recommended dosages and use Biobizz every time you water the plants. You stay at this percentage or slowly increase if the plants demand it. Organic gardening is all about the visual connection with your plants.
Question: Should we consider the chart as the absolute maximum of nutes to use or is it really just an avarage?
Answer: The schedule is the general guideline. With these dosages we think it is almost impossible to not get a good result. But as we stated above: try to see the guideline as an indication for maximum dosages and when to start/ stop using products. No more no less
Question: Most people, including myself do think that this is the right way to mix the nutes:
Leave the bucket with tap water for 24 hours to get the chlorine etc. evaporated.
Add all desired nutes and just feed it to the plants (in case of BioBizz soil of course)
Answer: PERFECT!
Question: After adding the nutes to the water, what to do?
Quote " BioBizz says if your ph is between 7.0 and 7.3 it’s just perfect. Don’t change anything! Feed it to the plants and the soil will buffer the rest. "
Ok. I believe that it works just fine like that as I was never measuring ph.
STILL the question is: what would happen if you were using organic ph-down like canna ph down or earthjuice to drop this 7.3 nutrient solution to 6.3 from the start, before feeding? Would this be counter-productive for getting the right ph or actually help the soil getting it right faster? It’s hard to tell because these ph meters in soil can’t always be really trusted and opinions vastly differ.
Answer: Again, a very good question. First of all: always measure the pH, measuring = knowledge. Now here is how Biobizz works:
Our soil has a pH of 6,1-6,2. This is the perfect pH for using our liquid products. When you water the plants, the Biobizz products start to decompose, with the help of the micro-life in the soil, the organic material breaks down and the pH always stay naturally at 6,1-6,2. So if the water you give has a pH of for instance 7,0-7,3, the micro-life will ensure the pH in the soil will drop to the desired 6,1-6,2. This is why you never had problems, because you let nature do it’s work.
Now, the micro-life can lower the pH to 6,1-6,2, but if you feed water with a pH lower then 6,1-6,2 you can have a problem. The micro-life can lower the pH, but not increase it. So basically: as long as your water, mixed with Biobizz is above 6,2-6,3 ( give it a bit of margin ) you are just fine. Of course, when you have tab water with a pH of 9,0 ( which happens ), you will have an issue anyway. Try to avoid the use of pH correction products. Try to rely on the micro-life to do the work.Non-organic pH products will damage the micro-life we rely on so much.
Well you now have the most up to date info from Biobizz directly. Hope you can put this info to good use! A pleasure to communicate these topics with you. We hope this message contains enough info to help fine –tune your own personal schedule.
Thanks for helping us start the fucking Blue Monday in a nice way. And no worries, we can talk about Biobizz all day. We have a feeling this will not be the last time we speakJ
Question: Everyone knows that charts are just an avarage and every plant is different. But let’s say the values given are indeed an avarage of nutes to use and let’s say we’d have a plant that has an avarage tolerance to nutrients. Would it be a good idea to really use all the products all together at full dose during an entire grow? Isn’t using all products all together making the solution a bit too hot for the plants? Or would this actually be very beneficial? Noeone on forums can tell because nobody has yet used them all, not that I know.
Answer: So, a super interesting topic! Good you askJ First of all : the Grow schedule is not the bible. It is a general guideline that gives the maximum dosages and when to start using which product, or when to stop. If you would use all products at the same time you do not need to worry that much, since you are only using maximum to NPK products: Bio-grow or Fish-Mix and Bio-Bloom. All other products are stimulators that compliment the nutrients, improve assimilation, metabolism, chlorophyll production etc etc etc.
We try to give a divers menu to the plants. If you want to live healthy, you do not eat a hamburger with a hamburger and a hamburger for desert. You’d eat a hamburger, with a salad, some orange juice, a yogurt or cheese for desert and maybe a small digestive afterwards. This is the function of the stimulators: Root-juice, Bio-Heaven, Top-max, Alg-a-Mic and Acti-vera.
Try to see it like this: You use as a basis Bio-grow or Fish-Mix and Bio-Bloom. The stimulators are your tools to guide your plants into the direction you want to go, or enrich them. You make the menu for your plants, depending on the type of plants, their age, the moment in the cycle and of course the type of genetics. Here some key caracters of the stimulators:
Root-juice: besides a root stimulator, it protects the roots again the most common root diseases and protects against over feeding
Alg-a-Mic: repairs damage from overfeeding, boost calcium and magnesium assimilation, boost production of chlorophyll
Top-max: improves density of the flowers and stimulates natural sugar production ( taste improvement )
Bio-heaven: accelerates flowering, boosts mineral assimilation,
Acti-Vera: improves metabolism, full of essential enzymes and amazing for seeds that have just hatched. Aloë vera rules!
Some people simply use all products at the same time. But as soon as you know your favorite genetics inside-out, you use the stimulators as supplements at the moment you think the plants need it.
Question: Presuming we would be sticking to the official chart, should we be feeding nutrients every time we water the plants or alternate water with nutes? People actually argue about how long it takes for the nutrients to become active in the soil and how long it takes for the plant to react to nutrient changes. Some say it takes up to 3 days which then implies a bit of ‚thinking‘ ahead. If it takes that long, alternating nutes and plain water would be really counter-productive. The question is about the built up in the soil. There’s lots of rumors around this as well.
Answer: We prefer you give water with Biobizz every time you water the plants. If you switch between just clear water one time and water with nutrients the second time, you’ll have every time different Ec/pH levels. Every time the plants need to adjust.
Indeed, the organic material in Biobizz products needs time to decompose inside the soil. About 30% is available immediately, the rest becomes available in 1-3 days maximum.
What you can do is this: you start with 50% of the recommended dosages and use Biobizz every time you water the plants. You stay at this percentage or slowly increase if the plants demand it. Organic gardening is all about the visual connection with your plants.
Question: Should we consider the chart as the absolute maximum of nutes to use or is it really just an avarage?
Answer: The schedule is the general guideline. With these dosages we think it is almost impossible to not get a good result. But as we stated above: try to see the guideline as an indication for maximum dosages and when to start/ stop using products. No more no less
Question: Most people, including myself do think that this is the right way to mix the nutes:
Leave the bucket with tap water for 24 hours to get the chlorine etc. evaporated.
Add all desired nutes and just feed it to the plants (in case of BioBizz soil of course)
Answer: PERFECT!
Question: After adding the nutes to the water, what to do?
Quote " BioBizz says if your ph is between 7.0 and 7.3 it’s just perfect. Don’t change anything! Feed it to the plants and the soil will buffer the rest. "
Ok. I believe that it works just fine like that as I was never measuring ph.
STILL the question is: what would happen if you were using organic ph-down like canna ph down or earthjuice to drop this 7.3 nutrient solution to 6.3 from the start, before feeding? Would this be counter-productive for getting the right ph or actually help the soil getting it right faster? It’s hard to tell because these ph meters in soil can’t always be really trusted and opinions vastly differ.
Answer: Again, a very good question. First of all: always measure the pH, measuring = knowledge. Now here is how Biobizz works:
Our soil has a pH of 6,1-6,2. This is the perfect pH for using our liquid products. When you water the plants, the Biobizz products start to decompose, with the help of the micro-life in the soil, the organic material breaks down and the pH always stay naturally at 6,1-6,2. So if the water you give has a pH of for instance 7,0-7,3, the micro-life will ensure the pH in the soil will drop to the desired 6,1-6,2. This is why you never had problems, because you let nature do it’s work.
Now, the micro-life can lower the pH to 6,1-6,2, but if you feed water with a pH lower then 6,1-6,2 you can have a problem. The micro-life can lower the pH, but not increase it. So basically: as long as your water, mixed with Biobizz is above 6,2-6,3 ( give it a bit of margin ) you are just fine. Of course, when you have tab water with a pH of 9,0 ( which happens ), you will have an issue anyway. Try to avoid the use of pH correction products. Try to rely on the micro-life to do the work.Non-organic pH products will damage the micro-life we rely on so much.
Well you now have the most up to date info from Biobizz directly. Hope you can put this info to good use! A pleasure to communicate these topics with you. We hope this message contains enough info to help fine –tune your own personal schedule.
Thanks for helping us start the fucking Blue Monday in a nice way. And no worries, we can talk about Biobizz all day. We have a feeling this will not be the last time we speakJ
Growenhaft
Active member
the reason why you can also use biobizz on coco is that you also have a lively soil life in coco. for this reason, the biobizz coco has a buffered ph value of 6.8. it says so on the sack. this prevents your soil life in the medium from dying from too much acid. you can't really successfully grow biobizz fertilizer in canna coco with a ph of 5.8. this inevitably means a shortage or huge amounts of biobizz fertilizer. because the life of the soil is greatly slowed down. This means that only the 30% of directly usable biological nutrients are available. And don't forget biological nutrients are weaker than mineral ones.
edit. I still have one of those sacks there.
just so that we understand each other correctly, i always speak from personal experience. no wild theories, but extensive knowledge about biobizz from many years of working with it.
if you want to work organically but have little space for large pots, it is better to work with biocanna. the biocanna combination soil / fertilizer is strong enough to get along in 10l pots. but many say that the taste in the biobizz is best with very large pots.
what biobizz does not forgive is messing around with minerals and acids. and you can see that on the plants. every single leaf shows the goat's cheese on the middle finger and thus expresses what it thinks of its gardening skills.
biobizz and epsom salt and canna fertilizer is botch.
edit. I still have one of those sacks there.
just so that we understand each other correctly, i always speak from personal experience. no wild theories, but extensive knowledge about biobizz from many years of working with it.
if you want to work organically but have little space for large pots, it is better to work with biocanna. the biocanna combination soil / fertilizer is strong enough to get along in 10l pots. but many say that the taste in the biobizz is best with very large pots.
what biobizz does not forgive is messing around with minerals and acids. and you can see that on the plants. every single leaf shows the goat's cheese on the middle finger and thus expresses what it thinks of its gardening skills.
biobizz and epsom salt and canna fertilizer is botch.
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