My plants have been listen too much to Yellow Submarine by Beatles :(

[Growenhaft]

look at the vitality of the plant. leaf position, leaf finger, all good. a state of affairs that is inconsistent with your prognosis.
there is a lack of nutrients!
if the recording were disturbed due to dryness or a medium that is too wet, this would always have leaf damage. the fingers would be twisted. the leaf is not well developed. it would have stains and damage on the edges. but nothing of this is to be seen. I suspect the fertilizer was not used every time. a fatal mistake with biobizz lightmix in pots that are probably too small.

 

[bondemand]

and kept the biobizz scheme 100% right from the start? at least as far as grow and bloom are concerned?
how long was your vegitation phase, how old were the plants when you switched to 12/12. and when did you end up in the final pot?

Yes 100% followed scheme for grow and bloom i vegged for around 1½ month, repotted 2 times, last one was 1 week before starting flowering thanks for ur time!!

 

[bondemand]

I have now bought a humidifier which ive placed in the lung room to get the RH higher and get correct VDP !! Problem is that im very scared of getting mold why, i kept the RH 40% of flower so far - Now i will be on 50% day and night with 28 degree day and 21 degree night

 

[Growenhaft]

with biobizz it is good if you calculate 4l pot volume per month. you have 6 weeks veg. + probably 8 weeks of flowering = 14 weeks 3.5 months × 4l pot volume = 14l pot volume.

At biobizz you don't feed your plants. but they feed their medium. and your soil nourishes your plants. therefore the size of the pot volume is crucial. because your pot is too small. repotting is not an option. They have fabric pots, which caused a lot of root damage. because the tips of the roots have fused into the plastic fiber tissue. and they are already in bloom. therefore it would be better to go up with the scheme. to 120-130%.

Edit. 40% rlft is good, that not the matter.

 

[bondemand]

Allright i try up the scheme a bit! And no more fancy pots

 

[bondemand]

75cm frop COB LED 7x50Ws
80% light organic soil from sweden
20% perlite
Ambient 1x1x2m tent
125mm intake passive
125mm 265m3/h vent
1 monkey fan

No meters, other than i know my water is PH 7

 

[Switcher56]

I have now bought a humidifier which ive placed in the lung room to get the RH higher and get correct VDP !! Problem is that im very scared of getting mold why, i kept the RH 40% of flower so far - Now i will be on 50% day and night with 28 degree day and 21 degree night

SO! What makes you say/think that? 50% RH still places you in the red zone. You don't want to be there. At a minimum, you will need a humidity controller, as the humidifier is a shot in the dark at best. Is your fan variable speed? If so, speed it up to drop your temp. I wouldn't say your temp ain't normal, 20-25 deg C is what you should be shooting for. If you have proper air exchange and circulation, with a clean environment, mold should not be an issue. BTW, I dry my buds at 70 deg/60% RH. Nice and slow

 

[bondemand]

Sadly my fan only have 1 speed - But next grow i will get a vent with settings for those kind of things.. Learning alot atm I have hygrometer in the tent so i can see its 40% all time of the day, and now around 50% constant with the humidfier turned on in the lung room.. But imma up it to 60% then... just read that 40% is best for flower several places Aint easy.. All about makin your own experiences i guess

 

[GoatCheese]

Allright i try up the scheme a bit! And no more fancy pots

You really don’t need to go higher with the feed! ..imo, Following BioBizz feeding chart you're actually over feeding your plants.

The green on your plant is dark enough so they are getting enough food, the yellowing leaves are symptom of under watering. Period.

I have used BioBizz nutrients for 10 years now with normal super market potting soil and most plants i’ve grown do well with under 50% of what BioBizz recommends.

Here’s an Afghan Kush from World Of Seeds i’m blooming atm. It isn’t under fed, is it.
The max. i have given it is 3ml/L of BioBizz Grow and Bloom combined which is under 50% of what BioBizz suggests in their feeding chart. Plain water once a week.0,5ml/L Canna calmag every feed and some epsom salts once in about two-three weeks.
It’s in 3,5 litres of market potting soil. End of 7th week of bloom. Grown under three Cree CXB3590 3500K cobs running about 30watts per cob. the top is 60cm away from nearest cob.

Blueberry, UK Cheese hybrids, Haze hybrids, Herijuana, C99, Black Domina, NL, CBD Critical Cure, most landrace lines etc etc would do just fine with under 50% of what BioBizz recommends in their feeding chart.

No offence to anyone but if you’re not too familiar with the particular nutrient line we are talking about, don’t start giving advices cause you can ruin other peoples‘ grows. Peace

 

[bondemand]

Okay i try water them alot more for 1 week and will update.. Thanks alot to u all <3 Big help

 

[Switcher56]

Sadly my fan only have 1 speed - But next grow i will get a vent with settings for those kind of things.. Learning alot atm I have hygrometer in the tent so i can see its 40% all time of the day, and now around 50% constant with the humidfier turned on in the lung room.. But imma up it to 60% then... just read that 40% is best for flower several places Aint easy.. All about makin your own experiences i guess

... depends what and where you read.

I will explain why I do what I do based on my references, from my books and local talent.

• 75/55 late bloom, check the chart... that places me on the cusp of 1.17 and 1.24. Healthy transpiration/high transpiration late flower, means their uptake (read nutes) for putting on "finish weight", their final push.
• drying ambient temp 68/70 & 60%. Once the plant has been chopped, the only moisture is what the plant contains and we want a nice slow dry min. 7 to 10 days. At those numbers the buds dry out uniformly and will pay dividends during the cure e.g no need to burp your jars as often. I keep my herb in glass jars with Hygros and 62% Boveda packs.

One needs to understand how things grow in the Northern Hemisphere. When grown outdoors, those numbers aren't to far off here during the fall (Nova Scotia). By mimicking mother nature, it triggers the plant to do its thing before it dies. As previously mentioned, I forgo growing during the period of June to end Aug, because of that. Too difficult and expensive to maintain my environment based on "our" weather conditions. Hence adapt what you do in your climate.

 

[Growenhaft]

No offence to anyone but if you’re not too familiar with the particular nutrient line we are talking about, don’t start giving advices cause you can ruin other peoples‘ grows. Peace [/SIZE]

[/QUOTE]

have you been working with biobizz for 10 years? and still haven't understood how to do it.

your picture is the best evidence. at the end of the 7th week of flowering, an afghan kus, at the headbud, is as thick as a donkey's penis. has strong 7 and 9 fingered leaves, and a massive trunk, even when topped at the right time, creates a height of 90-110cm.

your buds are smaller than those of the questioner, maybe you shouldn't give him any tips. but let him give you some. they have green leaves with Epsom salt. but look at the number of leaf fingers. how it evolves. the spreading of the leaf fingers, the position of the leaves. a tragedy! accordingly, the fruits are also poorly developed. weak flowers, weak fruits, but the main thing is green.

take a look at the vital posture of the bondemand plant. everything well developed. would that be the case if incorrectly watered? No! there are irregularities in the posture and spreading of the leaf fingers. and leaf damage would be visible. The nutrients that would otherwise be provided by the missing 40% earth are now simply missing. With the right pot size, we wouldn't have to talk at all. the only chance is to go up with the nutrient supply for the soil. and hope that your life on the ground is strong enough to cope with this.

should the biobizz not work in the higher scheme. you can still save the grow minerally. but i would try biobizz and 130% schema first. Since your plants are kept well and I like the development of the flowers after 4 weeks, I would not change your irrigation method, just increase the scheme. It's a shame that there are obviously few biobizz growers here who can confirm my statements on how important the correct pot volume is. it would be easier for them.

 

[GoatCheese]

have you been working with biobizz for 10 years? and still haven't understood how to do it.

your picture is the best evidence. at the end of the 7th week of flowering, an afghan kus, at the headbud, is as thick as a donkey's penis. has strong 7 and 9 fingered leaves, and a massive trunk, even when topped at the right time, creates a height of 90-110cm.

your buds are smaller than those of the questioner, maybe you shouldn't give him any tips. but let him give you some. they have green leaves with Epsom salt. but look at the number of leaf fingers. how it evolves. the spreading of the leaf fingers, the position of the leaves. a tragedy! accordingly, the fruits are also poorly developed. weak flowers, weak fruits, but the main thing is green.

take a look at the vital posture of the bondemand plant. everything well developed. would that be the case if incorrectly watered? No! there are irregularities in the posture and spreading of the leaf fingers. and leaf damage would be visible. The nutrients that would otherwise be provided by the missing 40% earth are now simply missing. With the right pot size, we wouldn't have to talk at all. the only chance is to go up with the nutrient supply for the soil. and hope that your life on the ground is strong enough to cope with this.

should the biobizz not work in the higher scheme. you can still save the grow minerally. but i would try biobizz and 130% schema first. Since your plants are kept well and I like the development of the flowers after 4 weeks, I would not change your irrigation method, just increase the scheme. It's a shame that there are obviously few biobizz growers here who can confirm my statements on how important the correct pot volume is. it would be easier for them.

It’s in a 3.5 liters of potting soil, genius. Do you really think plants yield massively in such small pots. In one of your posts you recommended a 14 liter container for BioBizz nutes (What ever that means), don’t you understand that this is over 10 litres smaller? You ignored the size difference cause you got so upset i didn’t agree with you. LOL

It should be 100cm tall even when topped? You never asked how long it was vegged, how the F do you know how tall it should be. There are many phenos in Afghan Kush line, which is a average yielding plant in general, and this is a lower vigor short pheno, i got a much taller Af Kush plant growing right beside this one. You seem to be very experienced with this line, ay.

How many fingers there are on a leaf depends on particular phenotype and how the plant is grown; when it’s topped many times there are less fingers on a leaf. You’re a total newbie who pretends to be a great expert. Stop counting the fingers as a sign of anything.
How the fingers spread on a leaf changes depending on a phenotype too, professor. In many BLD Afghanis the fingers can over lap each other but in sativas they are quite abit a part. You’re an idiot.


Reading thru your earlier posts in this thread, you clearly have an attitude problem when people respond the way that doesn’t suit your views. Teenage angst? F off.

 

[Growenhaft]

Es ist in einem 3,5 Liter Blumenerde, Genie.

that's exactly what I'm saying! you can tell by looking at your poor little plant that it is in much too small shoes! that works minerally, but not with biobizz! therefore you also have to fertilize with canna and treat with epsom salt. nothing is necessary if the pot volume is calculated correctly. the biobizz scheme then fits very well.

growing is about increasing your yields. to have more for the same energy costs. they do exactly the opposite. they make it difficult for your plant and therefore have poor flowers.

Don't you understand that biomass is not only built up by light, water and air. it needs building blocks, nutrients. if these are available, they are used. if they are not present, the fruit heads remain small, as with them.

if you only feed a pumpkin with water, it will remain relatively small. but you can also grow a 500kg monster. just needs the right dose of nutrients. It's the same with cannabis. if the nutrients are in the right proportions, you get big buds.

Es sollte 100 cm groß sein, auch wenn es gekrönt ist? ​

Sie haben nie gefragt, wie lange es vegetiert war​

what i wrote related to what your plant would look like if it was expertly grown. to get optimal yield. so something completely different from what they do.

Hör auf, die Finger als Zeichen von irgendetwas zu zählen.

You should start by realizing that the number of fingers, the symmetry and the position of the splay tell you more about your plants than you think you know.

Wenn Sie Ihre früheren Beiträge in diesem Thread lesen, haben Sie eindeutig ein Einstellungsproblem, wenn die Leute so reagieren, wie es Ihren Ansichten nicht entspricht.

of course it's always the other's fault.

I'm just telling the truth about what I see that's not always nice, if you handle it properly it will make you better.

 

[GoatCheese]

An arrogant and over confident Gerry, would you believe it. LOL
You keep on counting those fingers and grow your pumpkins, peasant.

 

[Growenhaft]

An arrogant and over confident Gerry, would you believe it. LOL
You keep on counting those fingers and grow your pumpkins, peasant.

i gave you an expert opinion on your plant.

they accuse me of being arrogant. want to insult me ​​as a stupid farmer. attack me personally. sorry for not lowering myself to this level.

I express my condolences to your plants.

 

[Switcher56]

look at the vitality of the plant. leaf position, leaf finger, all good. a state of affairs that is inconsistent with your prognosis.
there is a lack of nutrients!
if the recording were disturbed due to dryness or a medium that is too wet, this would always have leaf damage. the fingers would be twisted. the leaf is not well developed. it would have stains and damage on the edges. but nothing of this is to be seen. I suspect the fertilizer was not used every time. a fatal mistake with biobizz lightmix in pots that are probably too small.

I don't know shit about biobizz, never heard of it. To me based on my diagnostic charts. He seems to have a nitrogen deficiency. Not surprising if the plant isn't perspiring.

I normally stay out of deficiency threads when it comes to diagnosing a deficiency. I have come to find out, there are far too wide a spectrum of answers for folks who are struggling with their plants. Far too often we see needs cal, needs mag , no its this etc...

He has a whole slew of issues, not just one. If the basics are followed he should rebound. The easiest way IMHO is to bring his VPD in check and to increase his watering. Sorry, we have a similar growing environment and his watering schedule is incorrect. Pure vwater (for the lack of a better word, is the appropriate diagnostic tool to utilize here, whether you believe it or not.

 

[GoatCheese]

To anyone who thinks OPs plants look like that because of Nitrogen or nutrient deficiency..

I dare you:

Give your plants the usual nutrient strength but start seriously under watering them. Give them only 1/3 of the usual amount, so little that you don’t see any run off and come post photos of your plants 2-3 weeks later.
What will happen is; The sun leaves will start yellowing and dropping off first cause the plants want to keep moisture in the flowers, but soon also the water leaves on the buds will start yellowing too. Tops in the shade will stay greener longer.

I dare you, boys. Atm you’re advising OP to start over feeding his/her plants when in fact the damage is caused by under watering.
There's no point in me repeating myself anymore. Peace - out.

 

[Blazeee]

After reading the thread, the first questions that should have been asked is how much feed is OP feeding ML per L, followed up by how much is he watering and how often.

I would say those are essential to helping diagnose his problem. By page 3 we can see he is watering 1.5l every third day but he hasnt mentioned the levels of feed.

Without knowing that what he is feeding and when, I would have assumed the solution would have been what window posted on the first page, is he feeding 1ml per L grow along with his bloom in flower? However I also agree with GoatCheese, it does appear that OP may be underwatering, especially after finding out his pot size and amount watered. I know everyones environment is different, but In a 7.5/10L pot I would be watering around 1-1.5L every other day come flower time.

bondemand feeding, grow, bloom and topmax is just fine, however I would also look at introducing Calmag, as previously I have ran in to cal mag issues when running the biobizz line. It is also worth noting that you cant use biobizz nutes in a rez if using autopots, the nutes will go bad and block the pipework. Biobizz nutes dont like to be left in water for a couple days, leave the grow in a bucket for a couple days and see what happens.

 

[Switcher56]

To anyone who thinks OPs plants look like that because of Nitrogen or nutrient deficiency..

I dare you:

Give your plants the usual nutrient strength but start seriously under watering them. Give them only 1/3 of the usual amount, so little that you don’t see any run off and come post photos of your plants 2-3 weeks later.
What will happen is; The sun leaves will start yellowing and dropping off first cause the plants want to keep moisture in the flowers, but soon also the water leaves on the buds will start yellowing too. Tops in the shade will stay greener longer.

I dare you, boys. Atm you’re advising OP to start over feeding his/her plants when in fact the damage is caused by under watering.
There's no point in me repeating myself anymore. Peace - out.

Cool your jets goat. I said from the beginning what I thought and if I would take a stab at it I would have guessed an N deficiency (nute wise)