-
As of today ICMag has his own Discord server. In this Discord server you can chat, talk with eachother, listen to music, share stories and pictures...and much more. Join now and let's grow together! Join ICMag Discord here! More details in this thread here: here.
G
Guest
Hey all!
I finally have a chance to update.
Did the following last night:
I transplanted the the younger one to a 2 gallon grow bag. I could have gone to the 3 gallon as the width of what went into the 2 gal grow bag just fit so all it is pretty much sitting on all the new soil. I had hoped to flick out the clay balls from the bottom that I had layered the pot with but I didn't want to rip apart the web, they weren't about to roll out. lol. So I got it in nice and then gave it a gallon of water with no fert and topped it! I had wanted to see the difference between topping and not but in a moment of weakness... She is looking good, healthy. She doesn't look like she is responding yet, I don't expect to see results for the better part of a week, right?
The 3 month old (tomorrow
) was watered for the second time since the overfert, I went with ec of 0.450 of GH Maxigrow and a ph of 6.2. It is powder and 10-5-14. I watered with that after putting a layer of worm castings on top. The soil used at the time of potting it to the 2 gallon was FFOF and 1/3 perlite added. Man, it is densing up! She looks as good as she has ever looked, the internodes are pretty short! She has grown two nice tops, good and strong, I had topped her at about 1 to 1 1/2 months. I don't have the height in the veg hut to pot her up to the 3 gallon so she remains in the 2 gallon and I will stay on the lower end of ec until I can move on up! Where should I be keeping the RH? I have a humidifer in there. The temp doesn't go higher than 79 F at the canopy height. The 250w MH is approx 5"-6" at the closest of any of the tops.
I intend to get some pics up but my kids lost the cable and the xD card, of course, can't be used in my SD capable laptop lol.
The transplant soil
Gallon: used a top cut out of milk gallon jug
FFOF
tbsp Mycorrhzia
1/3 gallon worm castings
1-2 tbsp pelleted dolomite lime
1/3 gallon perlite
Please let me know if anything is mis-guided. That's all I can think of for now, I really appreciate the feedback, I can't tell you.
jj
I finally have a chance to update.
Did the following last night:
I transplanted the the younger one to a 2 gallon grow bag. I could have gone to the 3 gallon as the width of what went into the 2 gal grow bag just fit so all it is pretty much sitting on all the new soil. I had hoped to flick out the clay balls from the bottom that I had layered the pot with but I didn't want to rip apart the web, they weren't about to roll out. lol. So I got it in nice and then gave it a gallon of water with no fert and topped it! I had wanted to see the difference between topping and not but in a moment of weakness... She is looking good, healthy. She doesn't look like she is responding yet, I don't expect to see results for the better part of a week, right?
The 3 month old (tomorrow
) was watered for the second time since the overfert, I went with ec of 0.450 of GH Maxigrow and a ph of 6.2. It is powder and 10-5-14. I watered with that after putting a layer of worm castings on top. The soil used at the time of potting it to the 2 gallon was FFOF and 1/3 perlite added. Man, it is densing up! She looks as good as she has ever looked, the internodes are pretty short! She has grown two nice tops, good and strong, I had topped her at about 1 to 1 1/2 months. I don't have the height in the veg hut to pot her up to the 3 gallon so she remains in the 2 gallon and I will stay on the lower end of ec until I can move on up! Where should I be keeping the RH? I have a humidifer in there. The temp doesn't go higher than 79 F at the canopy height. The 250w MH is approx 5"-6" at the closest of any of the tops.I intend to get some pics up but my kids lost the cable and the xD card, of course, can't be used in my SD capable laptop lol.
The transplant soil
Gallon: used a top cut out of milk gallon jug
FFOF
tbsp Mycorrhzia
1/3 gallon worm castings
1-2 tbsp pelleted dolomite lime
1/3 gallon perlite
Please let me know if anything is mis-guided. That's all I can think of for now, I really appreciate the feedback, I can't tell you.
jj
Last edited:
Blackvelvet
Member
Powdered not pelletized lime. Pelleted lime will leave little pockets of high ph.jjschagundi said:
On a side note, Hotgurl send me a pm.
Last edited:
G
Guest
Oh cmon with that crap blackvelvet! We know hotgurl is your alter ego! LOL
G
Guest
Hi everybody!
My plants are at day 20 of flower and I noticed last night they seem to be yellowing throughout the plant from the in to outside of leaf. I also had several fan leaves that dropped off and were yellowed. I was suprised to see those since I didn't think they were due to drop or anything. I am watering with RO water and using the lucas formula of 1 part Micro to 2parts Bloom of GH flora. I am using FFOF soil. I have been keeping EC at 0.8, pH at 6.25 to 6.5 and add some molasses. I will try to get pics right before the lights go on.
Help please! If they need nitrogen, what would you advise I use? I do have worm castings on hand.
Should I foliar feed them today? If so, with what? I have been advised against foliar feeding at this stage.
Thank you!!!
My plants are at day 20 of flower and I noticed last night they seem to be yellowing throughout the plant from the in to outside of leaf. I also had several fan leaves that dropped off and were yellowed. I was suprised to see those since I didn't think they were due to drop or anything. I am watering with RO water and using the lucas formula of 1 part Micro to 2parts Bloom of GH flora. I am using FFOF soil. I have been keeping EC at 0.8, pH at 6.25 to 6.5 and add some molasses. I will try to get pics right before the lights go on.
Help please! If they need nitrogen, what would you advise I use? I do have worm castings on hand.
Should I foliar feed them today? If so, with what? I have been advised against foliar feeding at this stage.
Thank you!!!
Last edited:
JJs: When using RO water, ALOT but not all strains will require more calcium or magnesium then is offered from your regular ferts. I advise cal-mag+ it is great stuff, you should always keep a bottle on hand.
Also, test your ph of your water run-off. See where it is. It may b a deficiency casued by to high or to low of ph in the soil.
When i feed with cal-mag+, i usually go with 5 mill a gallon, but have gone up to 10 mill per gal before. Start with 5 mill. If you have a high or low ph in the soil, i would foliar fedding at 5 mill per gal for near instant results.
Cal-mag plus also has small amounts of N in it, so if it is N, it will be taken care off.
As to advice of not foliar feeding at this stage depends on your humidity levels. When foliar feeding, I always remove them from direct light, put them off to the side, and keep an ocillating fan blowing on them. About an hour later they are dry and put them back at full light.
Humidity is probaly why you have been advised not to folair to prevent mold. but dry them quickly and theres nothing to worry about
Best of luck. Cal-mag, never grow without it. I foliar feed up to 50 days of flower. Everything depends on your plants grow room conditions.
For future reference, what i do is just when i switch to 12/12. i give a cal-mag foliar feed no matter what. Not saying do it, but it works well for me.
B-safe
Also, test your ph of your water run-off. See where it is. It may b a deficiency casued by to high or to low of ph in the soil.
When i feed with cal-mag+, i usually go with 5 mill a gallon, but have gone up to 10 mill per gal before. Start with 5 mill. If you have a high or low ph in the soil, i would foliar fedding at 5 mill per gal for near instant results.
Cal-mag plus also has small amounts of N in it, so if it is N, it will be taken care off.
As to advice of not foliar feeding at this stage depends on your humidity levels. When foliar feeding, I always remove them from direct light, put them off to the side, and keep an ocillating fan blowing on them. About an hour later they are dry and put them back at full light.
Humidity is probaly why you have been advised not to folair to prevent mold. but dry them quickly and theres nothing to worry about
Best of luck. Cal-mag, never grow without it. I foliar feed up to 50 days of flower. Everything depends on your plants grow room conditions.
For future reference, what i do is just when i switch to 12/12. i give a cal-mag foliar feed no matter what. Not saying do it, but it works well for me.
B-safe
Last edited:
G
Guest
Thank you gmanwho! I did pick up some Cal Mag+ and plan to use it as soon as I can. My lights were due to come on now but interrupted it so I can get this done now. I am new at this, should I have the lights stay on for 12 once I do get them on? Or can they have a shortened cycle in order to keep the on/off schedule?
I mixed up 5 ml to a gallon of RO and it put the pH up about .5 so after adding too much pH down I then had to add pH up and I figured why not just add their food along with and use a little pH up as normal... so I dumped that on the houseplant and will mix up again.
I had read the following and tried to get a 6.2 pH:
**
Where possible, the pH of a foliar spray should be between 6.2 to 7.0. To promote young plant growth a sweeter (alkaline) solution (pH 7.0) is recommended. For established growth, a more sour (acid) solution (pH 6.2) is recommended
**
I don't remember who had posted that, would like to give credit. Do you agree with that?
Also, should I ff with plain water and CalMag after the ff with CalMag and nutes to rinse?
Thanks as always for help!
I mixed up 5 ml to a gallon of RO and it put the pH up about .5 so after adding too much pH down I then had to add pH up and I figured why not just add their food along with and use a little pH up as normal... so I dumped that on the houseplant and will mix up again.
I had read the following and tried to get a 6.2 pH:
**
Where possible, the pH of a foliar spray should be between 6.2 to 7.0. To promote young plant growth a sweeter (alkaline) solution (pH 7.0) is recommended. For established growth, a more sour (acid) solution (pH 6.2) is recommended
**
I don't remember who had posted that, would like to give credit. Do you agree with that?
Also, should I ff with plain water and CalMag after the ff with CalMag and nutes to rinse?
Thanks as always for help!
jjs: keep the 12/12 cycle going. Not shorter. Only time ive ever shortened th cycle is at the verryyy end of bloom. When i get a strain or different Pheno type that doesnt want to finish. when you have a 65 day strain at 70 and it still is not finishing.
Phing foliar feed is new to me, BUT i have read the same about phing foliar.I plan on phing the foliar feed whenever i may need to foliar again in the future.
As for interrupting the light cycle, i dont advise it. just take them out an hour or so before lights on, an foliar feed them. or even a few minutes before lights on. Even thou they dont get direct light, i still like to keep them near the light so they dont get any light/sched interuptions.
best of luck
B-safe
Phing foliar feed is new to me, BUT i have read the same about phing foliar.I plan on phing the foliar feed whenever i may need to foliar again in the future.
As for interrupting the light cycle, i dont advise it. just take them out an hour or so before lights on, an foliar feed them. or even a few minutes before lights on. Even thou they dont get direct light, i still like to keep them near the light so they dont get any light/sched interuptions.
best of luck
B-safe
G
Guest
Thanks for your reply, they got hteir full 12 hours of light, the schedule is moved ahead. The feeding went well, here is a pic that shows some of the affected leaves. It was taken after the ff. The plant at the top left is a Mandala safari Mix that appears to be showing sativa dominance and it seems to be more sensitive to fert than the SWT3's.
JJ: looks like mag def. especially the fact it started after 2 weeks into flower. IMO
You might wanna foliar feed again in a few days.
Have you tested your ph in your run off yet?
How bad is your tap water to be using RO water?
Cal-mag to the rescue!!!! Some plants react very quickly to the cal-mag. Some will get a burst of bushy growth. Some will get a deeper green.
you should see results sometimes within one light cycle, but usually in about 2 cycles it becomes very noticable.
B-safe
You might wanna foliar feed again in a few days.
Have you tested your ph in your run off yet?
How bad is your tap water to be using RO water?
Cal-mag to the rescue!!!! Some plants react very quickly to the cal-mag. Some will get a burst of bushy growth. Some will get a deeper green.
you should see results sometimes within one light cycle, but usually in about 2 cycles it becomes very noticable.
B-safe
Last edited:
G
Guest
Nice, can't wait to see them when they wake up.
I have not tested the runoff yet. I will do it with the next watering and report back.
Btw, I water until water seeps out pretty good and then I stop. Is that enough? Especially for the 5 gal containers?
I will take your advice on the additional ff although exactly when depends on when all the little planets are in alignment, if you catch my drift.
Re: the tap water, it is not too bad, 150 ppm and 7.5 to 8.0 pH.
I have not tested the runoff yet. I will do it with the next watering and report back.
Btw, I water until water seeps out pretty good and then I stop. Is that enough? Especially for the 5 gal containers?
I will take your advice on the additional ff although exactly when depends on when all the little planets are in alignment, if you catch my drift.
Re: the tap water, it is not too bad, 150 ppm and 7.5 to 8.0 pH.
Last edited:
jjs: your tap is not bad.
And yes, letting abit of water run out is good practice IMO.
Things will turn out ok, They seem pretty healthy other then that yellowing there. Hopefully the cal-mag will take care of it. may take 2 or 3 days.
On that note, the leaves may never turn green again. They could be yellowed forever now. but as long as it doesnt get worse or other leaves start yellowing u will be fine.
Later on in flowering you should let the plant start to yellow IMO. everyone has preferences, but i myself will stop feeding 10 or so days before i think it will finish, or go by the claimed flowering period per that strain. And just water with ph'd water. let the plant use up its nutes before the chop and the drying to get cleaner & smoother smoke i believe.
B-safe
And yes, letting abit of water run out is good practice IMO.
Things will turn out ok, They seem pretty healthy other then that yellowing there. Hopefully the cal-mag will take care of it. may take 2 or 3 days.
On that note, the leaves may never turn green again. They could be yellowed forever now. but as long as it doesnt get worse or other leaves start yellowing u will be fine.
Later on in flowering you should let the plant start to yellow IMO. everyone has preferences, but i myself will stop feeding 10 or so days before i think it will finish, or go by the claimed flowering period per that strain. And just water with ph'd water. let the plant use up its nutes before the chop and the drying to get cleaner & smoother smoke i believe.
B-safe
G
Guest
Dude!!
I checked them this morning and they were the most beautiful shade of green!!! They really looked different even from last night.
Should I:
a) go with the 1G/2M/3B formula instead of the lucas formula of 1M/2B and use Cal Mag regularly?
b) stick with lucas and supplement each watering/feeding with CalMag?
How much, how often would you recommend for the Cal Mag?
I checked them this morning and they were the most beautiful shade of green!!! They really looked different even from last night.
Should I:
a) go with the 1G/2M/3B formula instead of the lucas formula of 1M/2B and use Cal Mag regularly?
b) stick with lucas and supplement each watering/feeding with CalMag?
How much, how often would you recommend for the Cal Mag?
G
Guest
Another question:
I just received a solution of
Humic Acid 17%
Humic 4%
Fulvic 13%
It recommends 2 tbsp per gallon for houseplants. What amount would you suggest and how would you use it?
Thanks
I just received a solution of
Humic Acid 17%
Humic 4%
Fulvic 13%
It recommends 2 tbsp per gallon for houseplants. What amount would you suggest and how would you use it?
Thanks
jjs: good to see u noticed a change so soon, wait another 2 days and maybe give them another quick foliar. Just to be sure.
As for the lucas formula, i've never used that method. And if i remember, not 100%, people us it more for hydro. But i am unsure. I personally go towards a bio type nute. But thats opinion and preference.
When soil or hydro, i go by whatever ppm i choose at that time. Not a formula, just like 200-sprouts/clones, 400 when i get like 3 nodes up to 6 inches tall.Train them at like 10 in & 900 that feeding when trained. 900, 900, then 1100 -1200 ppm veg still at 12/12. see how they respond to 1200 & decide to stay at 1200 but switch to bloom nutes, maybe raise, maybe lower.
day 25 -30 if im at 1200 ppm, i add my bloom nutes to 1100, then add 100ppm of Kool Bloom to reach it to 1200ppm. Maybe do 1050 bloom nute & 150ppm of kool bloom with the next solution,maybe 100 again.
With a few grows only YOUR experience can tell you in YOUR grow room how to adjust the feeding.
All a preference. also depends on strain & soil amendments added when soil is mixed.
As for the acids. ive only used fulvic at 1-2 mil during veg. My fulvic is called " Ruby Fulivic" from mellenium gardens. It states on bottle, " do not use throughout flowering" or something like that. So i stop using after my last Veg feed, after i switch 12/12. (I use it in first veg feeding in 12/12) then i go to flower nutes.
So i would suggest using the acids in veg only, IMO.
Also do a wikpedia search on fulvic acid. If you look thru you can find studies on the benefits of fulvic acid vs not using. Very interesting. like i said ive never gone above 2 mil per gallon.
I also find myself adding ph up due to the fulvic as well, so i use it in moderation. But i am using PBP nutes for now. Thinking about trying the bio-canna line next.
B-safe
As for the lucas formula, i've never used that method. And if i remember, not 100%, people us it more for hydro. But i am unsure. I personally go towards a bio type nute. But thats opinion and preference.
When soil or hydro, i go by whatever ppm i choose at that time. Not a formula, just like 200-sprouts/clones, 400 when i get like 3 nodes up to 6 inches tall.Train them at like 10 in & 900 that feeding when trained. 900, 900, then 1100 -1200 ppm veg still at 12/12. see how they respond to 1200 & decide to stay at 1200 but switch to bloom nutes, maybe raise, maybe lower.
day 25 -30 if im at 1200 ppm, i add my bloom nutes to 1100, then add 100ppm of Kool Bloom to reach it to 1200ppm. Maybe do 1050 bloom nute & 150ppm of kool bloom with the next solution,maybe 100 again.
With a few grows only YOUR experience can tell you in YOUR grow room how to adjust the feeding.
All a preference. also depends on strain & soil amendments added when soil is mixed.
As for the acids. ive only used fulvic at 1-2 mil during veg. My fulvic is called " Ruby Fulivic" from mellenium gardens. It states on bottle, " do not use throughout flowering" or something like that. So i stop using after my last Veg feed, after i switch 12/12. (I use it in first veg feeding in 12/12) then i go to flower nutes.
So i would suggest using the acids in veg only, IMO.
Also do a wikpedia search on fulvic acid. If you look thru you can find studies on the benefits of fulvic acid vs not using. Very interesting. like i said ive never gone above 2 mil per gallon.
I also find myself adding ph up due to the fulvic as well, so i use it in moderation. But i am using PBP nutes for now. Thinking about trying the bio-canna line next.
B-safe
Last edited:
G
Guest
gmanwho, thanks again for your info! I started with GH flora, I bought some that was available for a good price so that is what I am using. I read in the Fertilizing Wisely thread that MandalaMike thinks highly of Algoflash and I was thinking of trying it down the road. I have the Pro-Tekt due to arrive tomorrow
I have a sealed hood, a Super Sun2, for my 600W. I do the back of the hand test and the heat is not a problem at 8 inches or so. Is that still too close? Or, if heat isn't an issue should I go as close as possible? I reference this Foot Candle Chart. There are the tops/colas that rise above the canopy and those tops are where I measure from. Temp in the hut with lights on averages 80 to 83.
This is a blast, best thing I've done in years. It is a great hobby. I am glad I found icmag. When I first started reading and thinking of actually trying to grow overgrow was still up and then all of a sudden it was gone. That sucked... The help that is gladly offered here is just f**king great!
I have a sealed hood, a Super Sun2, for my 600W. I do the back of the hand test and the heat is not a problem at 8 inches or so. Is that still too close? Or, if heat isn't an issue should I go as close as possible? I reference this Foot Candle Chart. There are the tops/colas that rise above the canopy and those tops are where I measure from. Temp in the hut with lights on averages 80 to 83.
This is a blast, best thing I've done in years. It is a great hobby.
I am glad I found icmag. When I first started reading and thinking of actually trying to grow overgrow was still up and then all of a sudden it was gone. That sucked... The help that is gladly offered here is just f**king great!
G
Guest
Here's a couple of pics from day 26, sorry for the quality. I took them before the lights went on and guess I should have had another light on to help the auto focus..... 
Pictures ain't my schtick!
Should I use the 5ml of CalMag with each watering from here on out?
Pictures ain't my schtick! Should I use the 5ml of CalMag with each watering from here on out?
G
Guest
gmanwho said:
gmanwho,
Following the fertilizing Wisely thread I am maxing at 600 ppm. I measure by EC but see the ppm are effectively half the ec. I just recently upped to the 1.2 ec(or 600ppm). Do you grow in soil? I can't remember if you had said and reread this thread. And you don't see signs of over fert?
Also, I checked runoff last night and the pH was at 6.85, ec was at 1140 (570 ppm).
Your Ph run off is in good standing.
Another thing is the conversion factor of using ppm, im not sure what my meter is. i think its .7 . So it my may be higher then the 570 you state. Which could be like 800 ppm with a different conversion multiplier, i get confused sometimes.
Right now all i have is some soil going. Got major rot recently in my hydro setup, lost 20 very capable ladies to root rot. when my current finish, its on. Much more prepared now. The growth i witnessed in hydro is veryy addicting indeed. 1-2 in. a day at peak veg.
As for overfert i have not seen it, YET, with PBP. ive already decided in my head that pure blend nutes are not as strong as others thou. So numbers could be different as well.
When in doubt i always go under what the bottle says.
Are all those tops yellowing as those really noticable pictures? It doesnt seem it by the photos.
even with the yellowing the rest seems still healthy. It may not seem like a time to experiment alot. They look well other then those few tops.
hummm.. gotta think on this.
B-safe
Another thing is the conversion factor of using ppm, im not sure what my meter is. i think its .7 . So it my may be higher then the 570 you state. Which could be like 800 ppm with a different conversion multiplier, i get confused sometimes.
Right now all i have is some soil going. Got major rot recently in my hydro setup, lost 20 very capable ladies to root rot. when my current finish, its on. Much more prepared now. The growth i witnessed in hydro is veryy addicting indeed. 1-2 in. a day at peak veg.
As for overfert i have not seen it, YET, with PBP. ive already decided in my head that pure blend nutes are not as strong as others thou. So numbers could be different as well.
When in doubt i always go under what the bottle says.
Are all those tops yellowing as those really noticable pictures? It doesnt seem it by the photos.
even with the yellowing the rest seems still healthy. It may not seem like a time to experiment alot. They look well other then those few tops.
hummm.. gotta think on this.
B-safe
Last edited:
G
Guest
Yes, the yellowing is there, it's not an artifact of the picture if that's what you mean.
