Midwest Outdoors IV 2006 Season

[HeD333]

HEY from kansas
Hi guys.. Im not able to grow outdoors this year no secure location and fundage problems since im back in school..but
I wanted to network a little with growers (hopefully like myself in the near future Grrr)
around my area... anyone in the 316 or close? hit me with a pm.. im new here from cali and lookin for some cannabis friendly people or crowds... lmk
HeD

 

[pipeline]

you know, its only march 5th. Still plenty of time for scouting and soil prepping before the season starts. You can plant up until late july. But the earlier, the more time they will have to grow nice and big.

 

[PureSativa420]

yea i usually end up taking plants out from april to mid june as it gives more chances of females over males

like this year ill be taking 88 seedlings out every 2 weeks till mid june hopefully , first will be my main plants then the rest are just for laughs to see if they will live

 

[Guyute54]

yea i usually end up taking plants out from april to mid june as it gives more chances of females over males

like this year ill be taking 88 seedlings out every 2 weeks till mid june hopefully , first will be my main plants then the rest are just for laughs to see if they will live

With some of those ones you just want to test stick some in some tall weeds don't clear them out or anything. The seedlings won't get much lite so they will shoot up all the way to the tops of the weeds to seek sunlight. The weeds around them help them hold it up till it can on it's own and soon it will tower over them. I seen this a few year ago and the 4 plants that I seen do this were just monsters by the end of the year.

 

[PureSativa420]

thnxs for the advice might just have to place them in overgrown weeds to see how they do and what not, but most will be in places where they get enough sun and be tied down to keep them from being spotted as easily and be in plots of 10 to 20 and maybe 1 big plot of a 100 or so, they will recieve some care but not as much as the main crop that i will tend to more often

 

[Captain Skunk]

but most will be in places where they get enough sun and be tied down to keep them from being spotted as easily and be in plots of 10 to 20 and maybe 1 big plot of a 100 or so...

That's pretty agressive PS, I wish you luck. I think 10 plants in one location is a lot.

You must have a very remote location to think about a 100 plant grow, especially if you put them out early...they are going to be monsters with a full day of sunshine. I wouldn't be surprised if it gets a little stinky around that patch come flowering season.

Keep in mind 100 plants from the air is going to be quite a lrge patch of MJ green.

Stay Safe and keep us posted!

 

[PureSativa420]

thats the whole point Captain i wont care if they end up disappearing as there only gonna be there to grow and nothing else

 

[pipeline]

be careful of cameras, and keep your face hidden when approaching in the fall. 100 plants in full sunlight will be a tangled monster mess. Better be sure to get those males out of there, unless you were wanting to create some seed, and a reoccuring stand of cannabis.

I get a nice 10 day break starting tomorrow, finally i'll get some time to get some garden prep done. The season's coming fast

 

[hilljack]

pipe is that a 16ozer of N1 f2's? im jealous lol

 

[pipeline]

Nope just a 1.94 oz m&m mini's container. Its a mix of North #1 F1's Jamaican Jam F1's, Jamaican jam x North #1, and North #1 x Jamaican Jam. (convention is fem x male). There were a couple inches of rice and a cotton ball in the bottom of it, but there sure were a lot of beans in there. I'm down to my last 150 now, but thats all i need to find some good individuals to continue the lines.

 

[lookimrory]

when you live in the mid-west like us lucky folks, how much sunlight should hit the plants? minimum and recomended

 

[Guyute54]

when you live in the mid-west like us lucky folks, how much sunlight should hit the plants? minimum and recomended

As much as you can give them. Remember the sun is going to shine on a spot different in the spring as it will in the fall. Minnimum I really don't know I'll let someone else answer that.

 

[PureSativa420]

the less sunlight the plant gets the more tall, stretchy lanky it will become and when it buds it will have very little buds and full of air

with a good amount of sunlight 6+ hours you get a more compact plant and the buds will become pretty solid and not airy


yea 100 plants will be a monsterous mess if they live to see harvest time which i dont think so as theyll either get ate or die from drought, but yes if they live far enough along to see males ill cull all the males and leave the females

 

[PureSativa420]

north #1 plz

 

[hamstring]

Hello Fellow Midwesterners

I have not posted in some time. I have become somewhat paranoid. I installed TOR today and felt like taking the plunge again. I value my security very much and felt like I was getting sloppy.
This is the only place that knows I grow.

I have Endless Sky and two femed varieties going outside Passion #1 and Shaman both from DP. The P#1 had 50% success rate while the Shaman had over 80%. The endless sky was seed form last harvest.

I thought I would post my germination observations. I used both seed start planting mix and peat plugs. I found that the seeds plugs did not have the % success rate as the starting mix but once in the seedling stage the plugs out preformed the seed starting mix. A side by side comparison showed the plug seedling were much larger even though they came up later.

I also had a question. When I first started my endless sky seeds for experimentation. I soaked them in water overnight (Tupperware bowl with lid sealed over heating pad) and then to paper towels. I had some pop in the first 24hr soaking. Which amazed me because I usually only use the paper towel method and can take up to 3 days.

The problem I had was that I would have a great % pop. I mean there would be many many popped seeds but after I put them in the soil the seeding % was very low. Was it because they were from my own seed stock (Not a controlled environment like a seed bank) or did I cook them?

I used the same method on the purchased seeds with better results. Actually some of theses popped in 18 hrs or less using the soaking method.

It's got me confused. I would like to generate my own seeds again this year and wondering if my new germination method or my genetics are the problem.

The only way to go is outside. Me and the Mother Nature.

 

[PureSativa420]

well i like to soak them in a cup for 24 hours also then once i see the ones that have popped open i put them in a moist towel to get the taproot to come out and this made the % of plants that sprouted go up by alot as they wasnt into growing as when just put in as the shell cracked

 

[hamstring]

PrueSativa420

Thanks for the post.
That rings true as I did that with the first batch and had better success then the second trial. I guess I just assumed that since they popped put them in the soil right away. It is interesting what subtle changes make.

It will be a fun year this season. I have decided to try a few methods. I have a swamp grow planned as per two heads posts. If anyone knows I was wondering do you still put the slow release ferts in 1-3 inches of the container (As stated on directions) for the swamp grow. How do the ferts break down if the water is coming form the bottom. It seems like the fert mix should be near the bottom of the container.

I will also put a couple out with no intentions of coming back to help them.

I have a water reservoir planed as per Backcountry. I also bought some of that coconut husk to try in the bottom of some holes to see about water retention. I have been at this for a while and want to dial in some factors. OG was a great teacher to me. I just need to put some of these techniques to the test to see what works.

Being from the Midwest I feel like if I am near water with a little water retention in the hole I should be able to limit my visits to once a month instead of every two weeks. The water reservoir idea is something that needs to be tested just so I understand it completely. Also I have always used water-soluble ferts and will try the slow release this year. If you can limit your exposure to LEO and rippers I feel like you can improve success rate.

This will be the year of dialing in what is best for my area and me. Not taking into account Mother Nature. She holds the holds the keys and makes the decision of where we are to go.

 

[pipeline]

The Norths are lookin good, Pure. They should yield pretty well with combined spring and fall harvests, and then you'll know which one has the qualities you like for any fall breeding. The North 1 is a good choice too, it has a pretty short flowering time.

"If anyone knows I was wondering do you still put the slow release ferts in 1-3 inches of the container (As stated on directions) for the swamp grow. How do the ferts break down if the water is coming form the bottom."

I would mix it evenly with your soil mixture. You don't want areas of high fertilizer concentration because it can lower the pH or buildup too many salts in one area. You want a nice blend so the media is the ideal environment for the roots live in.

"I also bought some of that coconut husk to try in the bottom of some holes to see about water retention."

coco coir is great for water retention, aeration, drainage, and nutrient holding, but it can become acidic as it breaks down. So be sure to add a cup of pulverized dolomitic lime in the mix. Again mix the coco in with the rest of the mixture to not create areas that are too acidic, and not good for roots to grow in. You can increase the ratio of coco in the mix in the bottom of the pot, but it should definately be mixed with some lime. Perlite and vermiculite are good amendments too for improving drainage and aeration, and vermiculite adds to the nutrient holding capacity of the mix.

 

[hamstring]

PipeLine

Thanks for the info. I will mix the slow release ferts evenly.

I had no idea that the coco coir had an acidic nature to it. That was one of the reasons I bought it so I would not have to mix with lime. I looked all over the package before buying. Should have done some research on the net.

I currently use moss and lime combo in some holes. Vermiculite has the water retention properties without the acidic nature right? I was looking for something at the bottom of the hole for that added safety during the last couple months in the fall. Most of my sights do fine as far as moisture in the soil and if they are lacking I do the moss/lime mixture.
It is great to be back and getting some OJT info.

 

[pipeline]

Perlite would be the better thing for improving aeration and drainage compared to vermiculite. In the beginning Vermiculite does a great job of improving drainage and aeration, but it tends to break down, and settle in the soil, and lose some of its structural characteristics. Vermic. has good water and nutrient holding capacities while, improving the soil structure, and not influencing pH.

Perlite will be structurally stable and will not break down and settle. It may help a little with water retention within each bead, but it is mainly used to improve drainage and aeration by making more macropores in the soil, and keeping it from compacting as easily. Perlite should be mixed evenly w/ the mix, but increasing the perlite ratio near the bottom of the mix could help in a swamp situation.

But remember(for rain or hand irrigation), with a layer of dense soil over a layer of sandy soil, the denser soil will saturate with water first (because its being influenced by adhesion and cohesion) until there is enough water collecting and able to be influenced by gravity and moved into the lower, less dense part. You want the entire mix to be fairly even to keep less dense portions of the soil, from being dried out quicker than the denser areas.