MH vs HPS for yield?

[rives]

Regardless if you think lumens don't matter, bright light does matter and the Horti is a lot brighter than your bulb.

You need to do some more reading about lumens, PAR ratings, and what plants need.

It is possible to have an incredibly bright light which is concentrated in an area that is almost useless to plants - the yellow region. This is exactly the sweet spot for HPS, and explains why other lamp technologies can perform better in horticultural applications with much less overall power. This area works well for lighting things for humans (lumens), and is the reason that HPS is so predominant in street and industrial lighting. The HPS horticultural lamps have been tweaked a bit to enhance the blue and red performance, but it is still only a tiny portion of the overall HPS output.

 

[Drek]

Let's also consider, that these lamps aren't designed around pot only.

They've been designed to 'accommodate a wide-selection of plants, more important to the horticultural industry than just pot.

 

[JKD]

Rives posting this in case you weren't familiar with this 'side by side' dual lamp hood.

http://www.planetnatural.com/product/growzilla-dual-bulb-reflector/

 

[rives]

Thank you!

 

[fabvariousk]

Some pics for perspective.
Here is why I use a 1000 watt 10000k halide and 400 watt hps for veg and 4 thousand watt sodiums and a 1000 watt 10000k in flower.
I want to simulate the sun indoors and the absolute best way of doing this using any light source is these bulbs.
Look at the charts.

10000k metal halide

Look at that blue! No other halide comes close to having that much blue.
Here is a 4200k halide for comparison.


Here is a 2000k HPS


If you use your imagination and combine the spectrums of the 10000k and the hps you will see that you get maximum blues and reds without wasting energy in the green.

If I was using a single bulb I agree with the gnome and the 4000k bulbs offer the most range and power in one lamp.
The dual bulbs are just an expensive way of getting to 3000k.
The topic of this thread is best bulb for yields and straight sodium may achieve that on some strains. Personally I considers yields to be the last priority.

 

[Asche]

to get the most precise spectrum i would suggest LED
but that would imply that you know the exact spectrum
which some believe to have found using purple blue
and red

but its all so misty and hazy in the knowledge of which light
the plants really need. maybe its the green which stimulates it the most in the end
even it may sound utterly stupid.. who knows

i am now growing with a 600 Watt MH 5000 K about
which i did on purpose to keep the stretch low
since i have Ace´s Panama growing.

with the PCK this light showed more power in the bloom
budding up better, but the light i had was a 400 HPS only
so the comparison may be a little unfair.. but i will keep open
and not judge too fast in this matter.

 

[blissfest]

The 2-in-a-hood thing is what I plan on doing for my larger tent. I use the Bell Lighting 600MV hoods, and two of them are a pain in the ass in there with the carbon filter, etc. The Bell 1000MV looks like it would be perfect for a lamp at each end, and then I can put the small hoods back to their intended purpose when I bought them.

This was the hood I had in mind if I was ever gonna use 2 of those 315w bulbs in a tent.
http://www.hydrofarm.com/product.php?itemid=13646

 

[Drek]

I just wanna say that imo, the 315w bulbs weren't designed to be used in tents; the 240v input on the ballast connotates commercial application. A ballast with 120v input would be designed for home use.

 

[Jhhnn]

This was the hood I had in mind if I was ever gonna use 2 of those 315w bulbs in a tent.
http://www.hydrofarm.com/product.php?itemid=13646

In person, those things are unbelievably huge, not to mention that they weigh 48 lbs. I think they're intended for room lighting rather than tent lighting.

Just sayin'.

 

[blissfest]

I just wanna say that imo, the 315w bulbs weren't designed to be used in tents; the 240v input on the ballast connotates commercial application. A ballast with 120v input would be designed for home use.

Explain??

Believe it or not, many of us have light controllers hard wired into 240v. I have one that can handle 8 1000w lights if I choose.

 

[blissfest]

In person, those things are unbelievably huge, not to mention that they weigh 48 lbs. I think they're intended for room lighting rather than tent lighting.

Just sayin'.

They're big, LOL!! But the coverage in a 5X5 tent would be perfect

 

[rives]

I just wanna say that imo, the 315w bulbs weren't designed to be used in tents; the 240v input on the ballast connotates commercial application. A ballast with 120v input would be designed for home use.

The 240v feed doesn't connote anything - they were designed and introduced in Europe, where 240v is the standard voltage even in residences. The US is way behind on this, it is actually a code violation to use 240v lighting in a building where people sleep.

 

[Drek]

Thanks for the info; I was wondering the reasoning behind this.

 

[the gnome]

Some pics for perspective.
Here is why I use a 1000 watt 10000k halide and 400 watt hps for veg and 4 thousand watt sodiums and a 1000 watt 10000k in flower.
I want to simulate the sun indoors and the absolute best way of doing this using any light source is these bulbs.
Look at the charts.

If you use your imagination and combine the spectrums of the 10000k and the hps you will see that you get maximum blues and reds without wasting energy in the green.

If I was using a single bulb I agree with the gnome and the 4000k bulbs offer the most range and power in one lamp.
The dual bulbs are just an expensive way of getting to 3000k.
The topic of this thread is best bulb for yields and straight sodium may achieve that on some strains. Personally I considers yields to be the last priority.

hi fab,
i remember the talks we had on the 10,000K bulbs a while back and wondered if or what ever became of it.
been meaning to shoot you a pm.
but it looks like you've been busy
have you knocked down any harvests yet,
I'm thinking you have but would like to see what your getting, pics? or link?

btw, if it was you i talked about not using the BT56 in horz. position and go with the plusrite
but having probs with the plusrite dimming,i
ts not the bulb, my mag ballast running 220v blew a few wires inside of it but kept running and was the cause of dimming bulbs

 

[Jhhnn]

I just wanna say that imo, the 315w bulbs weren't designed to be used in tents; the 240v input on the ballast connotates commercial application. A ballast with 120v input would be designed for home use.

I had a bass-ackwards reply. my mistake.

 

[fabvariousk]

Yeah gnome, take down about 5 to 8 plants every 10 days and have been running this setup since the new year.
Check out my thread in the dj short forum https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=194258&page=20 or check out my albums.
I run few clones and am constantly testing my new crosses so I have opted for the most dynamic lighting I can think of.
The blue genetics really seem to like it as well.
No we did not talk about the plusrites. I am pretty sold on plant max digital bulbs.

 

[Drek]

I had a bass-ackwards reply. my mistake.

Hey JH. I'm sorry, I'm a bit confused, did you reply somewhere?

 

[Jhhnn]

Hey JH. I'm sorry, I'm a bit confused, did you reply somewhere?

Yeh- I deleted it. I feel lucky nobody caught it.

 

[acridlab]

All preference, I just prefer the blues

 

[Dr.Nonagon]

Uhh, say what? Those pics look soo good. Super nice bud shots.