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Looking for guerillas with leaf spot diease experience.

LazLo

Member
In an effort to try a more organic approach than using fungicide, I used a 3% solution of hydrogen peroxide as a foliar spray and added to water to act as systemic. 1 tsp per 16 oz spray and 1/4 cup per gallon of water. Did that on Aug 16 and after checking on the girls today, it apparently worked or the shit ran its course. No more dead or dying leaves.

Found this chart but used less than the recommended amount.

To spray on sick or fungusy plants:
TO THIS AMOUNT OF WATER ADD THIS AMOUNT OF 3% HYDROGEN PEROXIDE

1 cup add 1 tablespoon
1 pint add 2 tablespoons
1 quart add 1/4 cup
1 gallon add 1 cup

Hope this helps others with the same issue.
 

Dorje113

Member
Laz, hope so.... I can tell you the Septoria(?) on one of my plants is not affected by Serenade, Copper Soap, or pH UP (foliared at 8.5-9). It is defoliating my plant from the bottom up.... no big deal indoors as I lollipop heavily anyway, but if it gets near the top of the plant it's going to be bad... I need to stop it NOW.
 

Dorje113

Member
What strain of yours is getting hit badly, dorje?

lw

It's a clone of Pineapple Express i got locally. The other 2 in my garden are Blowfish and White Rhino, they are not infected even though the plants are right next to each other. I don't see this as a normal condition, I think the Pineapple just has low immunity for whatever reason. But... it is bad and kills leaves pretty quickly. I keep on removing affected leaves, but in another week it's going to really fuck things up if I can't stop it... there's going to be no more fan leaves left.
 

hamstring

Well-known member
Veteran
Pics to help support thread

Pics to help support thread

OK I thought I would add some more pics of what leaf spot in my area looks like. Also compare to what DS posted before because this is most likely the same disease although it does express itself differently. As you can see on most of my plants its everywhere.

A few comments tying into what others have said.

1. I did collect samples and it does seem to hit the wild cheery trees the hardest I saw many trees completely void of leaves.

2. I checked a soybean field in the lowlands and did not see enough sign to say it attacks them. I did see some sign albeit very little on areas referred to as "ponding" when it floods these areas hold water and can kill large areas of crop. I found leaf spot where the beans where near trees but other wise nothing. I assume that soybeans are either not vulnerable or the have been bred to withstand this disease.

3. I used Serenade this time as my fungicide vs. Green Cure.
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hamstring

Well-known member
Veteran
On this second set of pics I am focusing on the plant itself. If you read the captions you will see that the disease affects plants at a varying degree depending on strain and even phenos within the same strain. Not only that but the way it affects them is different also. My camera is shitty but the disease eventually attacks the buds also. If it doesn’t destroy the whole bud it leaves dead patches allowing mold to infect much easier. This could be a hash year for me.

This is actually the same strain BFM but since I grew from seed you have different phenos and one of them was way more disease resistant than the other.

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Now each strain reacts differently the BFM keeps its leaves until they die and fall off where as the WW looses its leaves shortly after they contract the disease. Too bad there isnt a plant in these pics that is less than 6ft.

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Here is a 10ft high GHS WW the biggest strain I have grown. The tree next to it is over 20ft. I hope it gives a size perspective.
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hamstring

Well-known member
Veteran
Plot #2

Plot #2

Here is a second plot it contains GGX Skunk and GGXBluebonic. Some of these plants have a chance depending on weather some are as good as gone. What I noticed at this site because there are fewer trees is that if under a tree they contract the disease worse.

In my OPINION the disease in my area always starts from the ground in the undergrowth but once it affects the trees the contaminate anything below them because of the contaminated water dripping off there leaves onto the plants.

Just to emphasize this I don’t think the disease starts in the trees they are more of a carrier.

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S

stratmandu

DS, all: I checked and found my last GHS WW covered with the tiny yellow dots/holes from bottom up. This plant is nearly done flowering (it was very early and started budding in July), pistils have all changed color but trichs still mostly clear, so I decided to trim off all the shade leaves and let it go one more week because the weather is sunny and no rain, then I'll have to chop. I hope the buds survive one more week. Not quite the yield I'd hoped for. Two weeks ago there was no sign of this, then the heat and humidity went nuts.

Also found my biggest Haw Snow squashed flat and stem split 3 ways from a big deer or hippo laying on it. I taped it back together and splinted it, but it doesn't look like it will make it. It had just finished pre-flowering and stretch and was looking very good. It had 4 main branches down low from being almost completely eaten as a small plant - in the future I will reinforce these areas because they are structurally weak.

I'll be abandoning this area after this. I've had enough problems: deer, hogs, bugs, and now this shit. I need to find a better micro-climate somewhere else...
 

Dorje113

Member
This is odd because my pineapple express isn't affected by this in the least. Normally I am not a big fan of G13 Labs but this one strain is so tasty and good that I wanted it large size.
I'm growing 11 different strains outdoors and only one got it bad but unfortunately I don't know which strain it is as I lost the tag.
It might be Power Kush by Dinafem as it is growing more like an alfganistan strain which is what this strain grows like. Its about 3 weeks in flower stage already which is well ahead of any others I have. The only other one that got slightly infected was right beside it and was my Lavender from Soma. This strain I know is very pest and disease resistant but since it was directly in the line with this other, the wind must have carried over the spores to this one. They are both doing much better now but I do have to keep on top on it as I would hate for this thing to carry through into flowering stage. What a nightmare that would be.
Wishing the best for any other growers having to deal with this.

Quick update, I visited the local hydro store and told the guy what's been happening and he said people have been reporting the same issue I am having lately. He said the pattern he is seeing is that this shows up 2-3 weeks into flowering and the plant usually overcomes it after the buds set. I am at day 24 so the pattern applies to me. We guessed that the transition into flower is a time of stress for the plant making it more vulnerable and the plant should be able to outgrow it later in flowering. The other thing he mentioned is that nobody has seen anything affect it's progress which is scary and I also have not found ANYTHING that seems to affect it.

I hope it follows the pattern and goes away soon while my plant still has some foliage left....

Also, I think my pineapple express is a little touchy, it tends to yellow very easily with any amount of stress but also grows vigorously when happy. Here's a pic of a PX outdoors...
 

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D.S. Toker. MD

Active member
Veteran
The liquid copper seems to be working on it here Dorje13, although its taking 2 treatments.

hamstring, the plants look nice!. if you can just survive this shit to harvest it looks like youll have a good one. Doesnt white wdow get tall?. Theyre the tallest plant i have as well. I have to stand back to take a picture.

We're on the same page. A bit ago i looked closely at the disease you first posted and looked at my leaves. The diseases are different. Shortly after, i posted that there seems to be 3 different diseases here. No. 1 is the disease your plants have, although its only on 1 plant, its on lots of other plants and seems to be slowly fatal. No. 2 is a condition that in which the edge of the leaf looks like it touched something poison and an immediate round yellow spot forms on the edge of the leaf. Within days, the entire leaf is dead and brown. This disease(2) is deadly and wont allow the plant to survive for more than 2 weeks after its first seen. No. 3 is a condition in which the large leaves begin to yellow and they get small black spots on them. within days the leaf falls from the plant and many other leaves on the plant show different stages of the disease. This disease defoliates the entire plant and then the plant wilts and dies.

This combination is one reason ive had to use heavy weapons to fight with. The liquid copper seems to be killing all conditions, but its capacity to help the plant is clearly dependent upon how early in the disease you spray it on the plant. When applied early as soon as the disease is seen , there isnt hardly any damage to the plant, but a plant that is fully involved is helped and the disease is stopped but a toll has been taken, and while it recovers its been diminished .
 

hamstring

Well-known member
Veteran
Quick update, I visited the local hydro store and told the guy what's been happening and he said people have been reporting the same issue I am having lately.
He said the pattern he is seeing is that this shows up 2-3 weeks into flowering and the plant usually overcomes it after the buds set.
I am at day 24 so the pattern applies to me. We guessed that the transition into flower is a time of stress for the plant making it more vulnerable and the plant should be able to outgrow it later in flowering. The other thing he mentioned is that nobody has seen anything affect it's progress which is scary and I also have not found ANYTHING that seems to affect it.

I hope it follows the pattern and goes away soon while my plant still has some foliage left....

Also, I think my pineapple express is a little touchy, it tends to yellow very easily with any amount of stress but also grows vigorously when happy. Here's a pic of a PX outdoors...


Dorje
Plant looks great I don’t see any signs of disease ???


Like DS said I think we are looking at a couple different phenos (for lack of a better term) of this disease because the shit I have doesn’t stop during budding. Grant you there is less sign but it attacks the small bud leaves causing bud rot. I guess my pics are deceiving because I'm not really sure I will get enough smoke to keep through the year I have really low expectations.

 

hamstring

Well-known member
Veteran
The liquid copper seems to be working on it here Dorje13, although its taking 2 treatments.

hamstring, the plants look nice!. if you can just survive this shit to harvest it looks like youll have a good one. Doesnt white wdow get tall?. Theyre the tallest plant i have as well. I have to stand back to take a picture.

We're on the same page. A bit ago i looked closely at the disease you first posted and looked at my leaves. The diseases are different. Shortly after, i posted that there seems to be 3 different diseases here. No. 1 is the disease your plants have, although its only on 1 plant, its on lots of other plants and seems to be slowly fatal. No. 2 is a condition that in which the edge of the leaf looks like it touched something poison and an immediate round yellow spot forms on the edge of the leaf. Within days, the entire leaf is dead and brown. This disease(2) is deadly and wont allow the plant to survive for more than 2 weeks after its first seen. No. 3 is a condition in which the large leaves begin to yellow and they get small black spots on them. within days the leaf falls from the plant and many other leaves on the plant show different stages of the disease. This disease defoliates the entire plant and then the plant wilts and dies.

This combination is one reason ive had to use heavy weapons to fight with. The liquid copper seems to be killing all conditions, but its capacity to help the plant is clearly dependent upon how early in the disease you spray it on the plant. When applied early as soon as the disease is seen , there isnt hardly any damage to the plant, but a plant that is fully involved is helped and the disease is stopped but a toll has been taken, and while it recovers its been diminished .


Hey DS glad the liquid copper is working I used Serenade this time because I had it.

I hit everything with a huge dose I hope it helps.

I too think we are looking at some differences in diseases but they could be similar. My pics are deceiving though I have one plot with some early finishers (two weeks from done) and its basically hash weed because the buds all have dead spots with small amounts of mold. If it stays dry i should be ok to make hash if it gets humid or rainy I'm fucked. I made hash once from extremely moldy weed because I saw a thread on how to do it but it still tasted like mold once done.

The GHS WW doest take kindly to this disease they shed leave by 10 and 20s. They just went into full flower.
I'm pretty sure you grew these before the branches don’t look too strong do they hold up well??
I am hoping to at least get some personal from this if they finish on time. I heard they start late but put on weight quickly and the indica pheno at my lat 42N they should be done by Oct 15th, which cuts it too close, but I never grew a white strain and had to try it. So much for stealth I actually would have toped them had I known besides not being stealthy they are hard to care for because of the size.

Good luck to ya this season.
 

Dorje113

Member
Dorje
Plant looks great I don’t see any signs of disease ???

It's one of my indoor plants that has it strangely enough... the od one is fine as far as I can tell.


I agree there are a lot of leaf spot diseases, but it seems like treatment is similar for most of them. I may try chlorothalonil, usually used to control septoria on tomatoes and I got some hydrogen peroxide.

I was just over at my "friends" place who gave me the infected plant from his veg, the disease is doing some serious damage over there as well. His veg garden, and possibly my flowering plant, are going to be a total loss unless we can figure out a way to stop it. It seems to be a lot more aggressive in his veg, infecting leaves near the top and bottom of plants indiscriminately.

Also... we used Eagle 20, a systemic fungicide used for PM, so that's another fungicide that doesn't seem to do anything.
 

hamstring

Well-known member
Veteran
It's one of my indoor plants that has it strangely enough... the od one is fine as far as I can tell.


I agree there are a lot of leaf spot diseases, but it seems like treatment is similar for most of them. I may try chlorothalonil, usually used to control septoria on tomatoes and I got some hydrogen peroxide.

I was just over at my "friends" place who gave me the infected plant from his veg, the disease is doing some serious damage over there as well. His veg garden, and possibly my flowering plant, are going to be a total loss unless we can figure out a way to stop it. It seems to be a lot more aggressive in his veg, infecting leaves near the top and bottom of plants indiscriminately.

Also... we used Eagle 20, a systemic fungicide used for PM, so that's another fungicide that doesn't seem to do anything.

Dorje
Your killing me brother that sucks well the green cure didnt do much either. Shit I guess the liquid copper is the way to go. Thanks for the input.
 

D.S. Toker. MD

Active member
Veteran
Good luck on that site relocate stratmandu, but the same shit is everywhere i go!

Guys, i found the eagle 20 ineffective as well. A week later the plant i sprayed was nearly dead.

hamstring, how is the serenade working?

The liquid Copper clearly is effective. I tried to pick off any leaf that was significantly yellow before i sprayed the plants so that i could tell if more leaves yellowed. In every case, 1 week later there are only 3-4 new yellow leaves and they are really leaves that had some infection on them when i sprayed, but werent yellow yet. They continued to yellow. i have just applied a second treatment and i feel confident that it will end the scourge for me as it will be under control. Ive sustained damage to my crop because i didnt attack soon enough, but now i know. Every plant that just had a few yellow leaves in the beginning and didnt have the disease that bad yet, recovered well with no real damage to the plant nor any sign of the disease, so if its applied early, the plants arent damaged by the disease.

Now, the real question. I harvested a spindley/weak and terribly diseased biddy early that recieved the liquid copper treatement. Took it home, dunked it gently in water and then dried it out. I cant taste any chemical taste nor did it make me cough or gag. I think the stuff is ok. I dont think that i will have to apply any more after this last treatment and its still 5 weeks from full harvest so im hoping all will be well.
 

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