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Looking for guerillas with leaf spot diease experience.

Dorje113

Member
Hi all. This thread is awesome....so much info that has been helpful. It appears that we have the same disease that we are seeing on all your pics. We had to pull one plant cuz it was just destroyed by this crap. A friend brought over a fungicide called "Bonide Fung-onil" for us to use. After reading the info on it we are a bit concerned. On this product as well as the Liquid Copper it stresses caution during application...like be sure to not get it in your eyes, on your skin, inhale it, etc.. So do we need to go out and get a bio-hazard suit to apply this stuff? Really would like to hear how you all apply these things safely. Thanks so much for any and all advice:thank you:



:smoke out: :plant grow:

That stuff is copper soap, afaik, I believe you want copper sulfide, the metal form, which is even worse for you but may actually work.... and yes take the precautions seriously.
 
S

stratmandu

Well, this is what happens if you wait a week once the spots are heavy. This is my infected WW 3 weeks ago, I had just noticed a few spots:
ww2f.jpg

A week ago the leaves were covered with spots; decided to not spray and go one more week to save the buds. Here's what it looked like - if I had went one more day it would have been a total loss:
wwseph1.jpg


I chopped immediately, and was able to save some bud, unfortunately they needed a couple more weeks (100% clear trichs), but better than nothing:
wwstrim1.jpg

Like I said before, the sativas in the same area are not infected at all. (this is GHS WW).
 

hamstring

Well-known member
Veteran
Stratmandu
Sorry for your loss and glad you did come away with some bud, early or not. I applaud you for taking the time and showing the humility to show us those pics. If a pic is worth a 1000 words yours is worth a 1000 curse words.

In the guerrilla world you just jumped on a grenade to save your fellow guerillas. Your post will help so many other guerillas in the future. They will now to act fast and take proper measures. If you believe in karma I send ++++ you way.

I wont see my girls for another week or more and I already know I have some plants that are only fit for hash but seeing your pics is cold and sober reminder of what I may see when I show up.
Thanks again.
 

Dorje113

Member
strat, sorry man that sucks, but at least you got something... amazing the difference in resistance to disease among different strains....

on a more positive note the ferti-lome stuff I mentioned above seems to be working on my plant and on the ones in my friends veg. It has halted the disease even on leaves that are infected, although I'm sure that won't last. I'm going to do a 2nd application, the plants didn't seem to mind it at all.
 
Septoria Cannabis in swamp grow

Septoria Cannabis in swamp grow

Very, very actual thread.

In my swamp grow almost all plants affected with fungi except nettles.

White family and sativas are most resistant but also have some spots:





Plants start in April looks much better than plants from May/June. Himalaya gold is most affected:


Last week treat with liquid sulfur not help much. Septoria infection progress rapidly and almost all leafs affected (three days after pruning):


In local store find Syngenta Ridomil Gold Plus (40% cooper + 2.5% metalaksilam-metalaksil) as systemic fungicide .

Is it right remedy for Septoria Cannabis?

Should I treat with this all plants or only most affected?

Peace.
 
E

el dub

LIquid copper (copper soap) is doing the job for me. Plants that have received two applications are looking good. (Except for a couple of white russians that were infected real early.) A few plants are scheduled for a second treatment early this week, and from the looks of it yesterday NEED that second dose.

Thanks for reporting on the taste of harvested buds after copper application, doc. I've been worried about that myself.

Last week I also noticed crown rot forming on a particular strain in 10 gal smart pots. (We got more than 14" of rain in a 28 day period and then later, nine more inches over 20 days. These plants are in compacted soil but just rocking the prairie. (Look to be pounders +.) I sprayed the crowns with actinovate and then took advantage of the wonderfully dry week and let the plants dry out. Yesterday they were bone dry and ready for another dose of actinovate mixed with ferts. Not sure if one will make it to the end of the season, but the worse gal still appears to be thriving and the rot on the crown doesn't appear to be as much of an issue. Still not sure what's happening underground, though.

Thanks for everything, gang.

lw
 

D.S. Toker. MD

Active member
Veteran
High

Aint it true hamstring. Stratmandu, i feel your pain man. ive harvested 4 plants already because i had too. They looked just like yours. If you cure early buds for a few months, theyre pretty good.



My situation has washed out to a conclusion here guys. The plants i have that were treated early with LCopper were cured are doing fine and full of blooms. The plants that were heavily involved with the disease at the time of application have had their immenent death delayed by Lcopper.

The label information on Liquid Copper should be taken litterally. It says LC is best as a preventative measure and is very effective if used in the early stages of the disease. Effectiveness decreases dramatically as the prevalence of the disease increases in the plant. When the plant is heavily involved, Lcopper only delays the inevitable.
.
This is what ive written into next years plan/calender.(thanks to hamstring, i now have have a plan with dates!)


1. Spray with Liquid Copper-2tsp/gal on Aug.1. (hamstring started this thread on 8/13. About 2 weeks prior to that is when i saw my first problems )

2. Check fan leaves weekly. Spray 2tsp/gal if any apparent leaf yellowing has occurred.

The diseases are easy to prevent, nearly impossible to cure. If i had followed this regimen this year, i would be a lot better off today.
 

D.S. Toker. MD

Active member
Veteran
Cro guerilla, Himalayan Gold was my most infected plant last year. its highly succeptable.

Dorje113 and plhkarma, aint that fungonil systemic? I looked into it and opted out, i cant remember why now. Be careful..
 
E

el dub

Next season I plan on inoculating the root systems with actinovate in the spring and hitting the vegetation with actinovate as well as azamax every 7-10 days. Along with organic gardening principals, this should keep insects and soil born fungi in check. At first signs of leaf blight, I plan on switching from actinovate (as a preventive) to the copper soap. However, after speaking with the good Dr at the company that manufactures actinovate, there is a possibility that Streptomyces lydicuse remains viable even after weak applications of copper soap.

lw
 

plhkarma

Member
Cro guerilla, Himalayan Gold was my most infected plant last year. its highly succeptable.

Dorje113 and plhkarma, aint that fungonil systemic? I looked into it and opted out, i cant remember why now. Be careful..



We decided to go with BT. Having a hard time finding it tho.
Not really sure what disease we have cuz it is not moving as rapidly as some discussed/shown on this thread.
We are for sure learning as we go here. Thanks to all the contributers to this thread:thank you:



Peace, Love and Harmony
 
Not sure for use heavy metal fungicide as preventive.

Fungi are ubiquitous and only few of them are pathogenic for canopy. Leafs treatment with sulfur or copper will change surface balance and weaken immune response to other microorganisms...

If choose right strains and start in late April, backing soda or milk will do job in regular season. In my opinion, copper is last saving defense only for very affected plants as it stratmandus ww or my hg.

^_^
 

hamstring

Well-known member
Veteran
Hey guys nice back and forth it’s amazing the brain trust we have working together on this problem.

My plan is a little different because all my research points to the first spores being released in early spring so I plan on hitting them with a fungicide (not sure which one but probably L C) when the seedlings hit the ground May 15th-June 1st. Then again at the end of July beginning of August. I hope to be able (depending on security) to remove some of this seasons leaf litter. If you can get it removed before May 5th or so in my lat it works out well because by the May 15th it fills in nicely providing security again. I have no idea what to do for mulch I can’t or wont lug it in.

Its kind of weird all research pointed out prevention is the best cure so I am not sure if we (the collective guerillas) can point to any one fungicide that is the best for preventative measures. Green Cure, Serenade and Safers all claim to work against Leaf Spot. My only reason for choosing Liquid Copper is from the personal experience provided on this thread.

I did some research and one other reason I like Liquid Copper is it said it would be ok to mix it with some pesticides.My plants need insect protection the first month until they are established enough to shrug off any insect problems. As many of you probably know when you have a 2-3ft plant get hit hard by leaf hoppers it can really slow down the growth early in the season for that reason I like to spray at least at the beginning of the year.

Booyah again to Strat because its tough enough to come to your plot and find death and destruction and then to find the strength to take pics too. I have a feeling I may be in the same boat in a couple of weeks. I know for sure some plants are on the way out and the only reason I didn’t cull them was to see how this shit progresses.
 
E

el dub

If I were gardening in the midwest next season, I'd prolly be starting the grow by folliar feeding with Streptomyces lydicuse as a fungi preventative along with the azamax for insects. I'd hold off on the copper until signs of blight appeared.

That said, I was just offered (and accepted) a job in humboldt county for next season. There seems to be a demand for plantsmen who speak spanish. And the wife says she'd rather visit me in California than jail.

lw
 

ghost of sage

Active member
me too!!!

me too!!!

Cro guerilla, Himalayan Gold was my most infected plant last year. its highly succeptable.

Dorje113 and plhkarma, aint that fungonil systemic? I looked into it and opted out, i cant remember why now. Be careful..


That is what the bud shot is from last year Himalaya Gold!Man that shit just totally destroyed that plant and it is one helluva nice plant without that stuff!It is a pitty I didnt know about LC back then as that is some very good herb and a favorite around ehre since I grew it a couple years ago!
 

hamstring

Well-known member
Veteran
If I were gardening in the midwest next season,
I'd prolly be starting the grow by folliar feeding with Streptomyces lydicuse as a fungi preventative along with the azamax for insects.
I'd hold off on the copper until signs of blight appeared.

That said, I was just offered (and accepted) a job in humboldt county for next season. There seems to be a demand for plantsmen who speak spanish. And the wife says she'd rather visit me in California than jail.

lw

Good luck with the new job sounds great.

So you have some plant husbandry background??? Can you tell me more about your choices above and the products you suggested?

How readily available are they?
Something that works in the bush and not just the garden?
 

Dorje113

Member
Hi DS ferti-lome makes a systemic and a non-systemic (chlorothalionil).... the non-systemic is what I'm using, but for the affected veg plants I'm going to use the systemic + liquid copper + sulpher bombs. This shit is serious, and the non-systemic might hold shit back for a few days at best... If this doesn't work over the next couple weeks affected plants are going in the trash.

My one flowering plant that has septoria is still being affected, but has slowed down due to the fungicide. It is 4 weeks into flowering and will surely be completely defoliated over the next couple weeks as I cannot use harsher remedies at this point. This is completely fucked up.
 
E

el dub

Good luck with the new job sounds great.

So you have some plant husbandry background??? Can you tell me more about your choices above and the products you suggested?

How readily available are they?
Something that works in the bush and not just the garden?

No formal background in plant husbandry. I've had a love of plants all of my life and have tried to educate myself on organic gardening principals and practices this last decade or so. To me this field isn't work, its life. And the fact that I speak spanish and we share a respect for latino folks factored into his decision.

Anyway, living in the midwest, our choice of grow shops is fairly limited. The products I've mentioned are ones available here (two hours and one state line away) with good track records on the prairie. There are no legal gardens around these parts. ANything outside should be in the bush, as the state practices property forfeiture in drug related cases.

I've been really impressed with the results of the azamax so far this season, compared to how the gals looked last season with no treatments. My experiences inside with azamax have also been positive.

As far as the Strep l usage is concerned, it would be the first time I'd use it as a preventative. However, Its become obvious to me in the last couple of seasons outside here in the midwest that its now necessary to go that route if desiring to follow organic gardening principals.

lw
 

whodair

Active member
Veteran
sept 1st and going the distance without treatment !!

sept 1st and going the distance without treatment !!

Don't chance it whodaire that shit moves so fast you won't believe it!It can go from that to half the bottom being yellow the next time you go!It looks like you have at least 6 or 7 weeks left ytou better put the liquid copper to them now!


since ive done no watering or fertilizing on this crop and just let them run natural, ive decide to let the plant fight the fungus on its own...boy i just cant spray anything on my buds !! its been about a week since my last visit, and i think the girls are holding up well. this strain goes about 50-55 days indoor, and finishes outside by oct 1st. go resin !!!

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plus i'm too lazy to do anything !!
 
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