Looking for guerillas with leaf spot diease experience.

[Behind_The_Mask]

my tomatoes and roses are all fucked cause of this shit
everything in the woods is covered in it

im waiting it out and doing minis end of season this year in hopes they can mature fast and not get hit badly

it got into my mother chamber somehow too...had to go nuclear option and was able to kill it in the mother room by alternating daconil and eagle-20 weekly

 

[anchient]

moondawg- hi - does immunox slow down plant growth? the girls seem to have slowed down. we have perfect weather, rain and sun. i have been using it for about a month.anything is better than the yellow rot. but i know 2 of the strains that i'am growing and have not done anything differnt except immunox.

 

[moondawg]

Perhaps to some extent anchient. Ive read and read about systemic fungicides and many do have an inhibitive effect on growth. I havent been able to tell if the immunox does or not really because there were so many other factors in the mix that its hard to know if the immunox was a factor or not.

for instance, im seeing accepatable, but far from stellar growth this year, but is it because its been in excess of 100 degrees for weeks and no rain or is it the immunox?. Last year in the beginning of the year, we had 22" of rain in a 3 month period between april and june, and then it dried up and was 98 for 2 months. Immunox or weather?

ive been growing cannabis for 40 yrs and have been a farmer of tobacco for much of that time. There are good years and bad years and this year is a bad year. Corn growth and yeilds are pathetic, tobacco is barely growing and disease ridden and the soy has dried up in the fields. Its a bad bad year and that makes determination of immunox difficutl

But anchient, dont use more than 3 apps of the Immunox. It has a cumulative effect and last year, i used 2 and every plant i aplied 2 doses to lived. Some were damaged badly, but that really occured before i started using the immunox which is causative.

Whether it inhibits growth or not, i do know that youre harvest will be significantly better if u use it than if you dont and the disease is allowed to remain.

 

[sfrenger]

Deficiency or Fungus

Deficiency or Fungus

Ok everyone, I'm starting to second guess my diagnosis. I have included a couple pics of one of my fan leaves. I have been losing them regular lately. The leaves turn yellow and get necrosis like that on the edge of this leaf, but then it progresses until the leaf dies. Have I been correct in treating with LC?

 

[sfrenger]

Have I been correct in treating with LC?

Anyone?

 

[moondawg]

Yes, Lc should work well with one caveat. Use 2+ ozs per gallong and make sure you get a very good covering on both the undersides of the leaves as well as the upper surface. Max doses are called for with Lc because the disease can build a tolerance to it if even a few of the spores survive the application.

Its effective. Its only drawback is that it has to be reapplied when it rains and if it rains repeatedly and then gets hot/ rain hot rain hot, it will break the fucking bank buying the stuff. But it works and works on the soil as well.

Welcome sfrenger

 

[sfrenger]

Yes, Lc should work well with one caveat. Use 2+ ozs per gallong and make sure you get a very good covering on both the undersides of the leaves as well as the upper surface. Max doses are called for with Lc because the disease can build a tolerance to it if even a few of the spores survive the application.

Its effective. Its only drawback is that it has to be reapplied when it rains and if it rains repeatedly and then gets hot/ rain hot rain hot, it will break the fucking bank buying the stuff. But it works and works on the soil as well.

Welcome sfrenger

Thanks Moon, I wasn't sure but have been applying it anyways. I just started applying with 3oz/gal of water. This morning is the second application at that dose. I also added a little grow fert and an asperin to the concoction to help with the nute lockout while my plant is still trying to fight this problem. I appreciate the input and agree about it costing some serious bread for the LC.

 

[Agaricus]

Thank you, thank you, thank you all!

I've been pulling what's left of my hair out trying to figure out what's been attacking my outdoor blue widow. It's been starting to show in my tomatoes, too. Now I know!

On my way to find some greencure, then maybe some LC if that doesn't work.

 

[sfrenger]

Thank you, thank you, thank you all!

I've been pulling what's left of my hair out trying to figure out what's been attacking my outdoor blue widow. It's been starting to show in my tomatoes, too. Now I know!

On my way to find some greencure, then maybe some LC if that doesn't work.

Dude, I read through all 500 of these posts. Trust me, fuck everything except Liquid Copper and Immunox. Especially since most weed is still in veg or early bloom phase right now.

 

[miaumiau]

I just realised that again this year the leaf spot disease has hit me !

i just uploaded some pics : https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?p=5220752&posted=1#post5220752

what do you say?

 

[sfrenger]

Oh yea dude, small dots with halo, better take care of that FAST.

 

[moondawg]

Every plant i have has it, but i started spraying in mid june so the disease really isnt harming the plants...... and that's the key. If you treat them BEFORE the disease hits, it cant cause much damage but if you wait until they have it, its a battle with mixed results.

Im at ground zero for the disease. It first appeared 5 years ago and destroyed every crop around and now, its here every year and its something we have to deal with if we plan to grow outdoors.

This is tobacco country and mould is everywhere: tobacco, blackberries, wild roses, elm tree's, wild cherries. The crops that are cultivated attract and carry it and the native fauna is a harbor for it. At the end of every tobacco patch is a 2 acre tomato patch. Wild roses grow everywhere. These native plants dont die from it but you can tell they have it.

I use immunox for 3 apps, starting in mid june and then every 2 wks until mid july and then aug 1, i use Daconil or Chloranthanil which is a contact killer, not a systemic. By mid August i dont have to apply anything else because the disease begins to die out late aug.

That method is working well so far. But again, if you wait until the plant has the disease to treat it, you're in for a fight that you may loose.

A Tip: If you dont know if the disease is going to show up, you can treat with one app of immunox in mid june for protection, but you need to plant a few of those freebies youve gotten and set them around in pots and dont treat them. They will tell you if you need to hit your main crop hard and fast, or whether you can take a little breather and back off. If its around, it will get the untreated plants in a hurry. Watching the tomatos in the garden can also provide clues.

 

[sfrenger]

Moon, You have some pretty good ideas. My tomato plants were the first thing to get hit, then it moved onto my girls. I have been fighting the shit out of this and think I'm getting control of it, but it's still a battle. Also, I am still losing leaves. The pics show how many leaves I lose within 4 days. I have 18 girls (I've got a collective garden and can have 45 plants for any of the popo's reading) growing now and would like to add some immunox, but I have read that it stunts the growth on the plants. Have you or anyone else heard of this happening? I need to get this under control, but my ladies are starting to flower a bit. I'm thinking of starting the chlorothalanil instead of the immunox. Also, it's supposed to be drying out (lower relative humidity) soon and hopefully it dies off. God this has been a s.o.b. I almost can't wait until next year now so I can start treating my girls as soon as they are in the pots. I can't thank you all enough for this thread. This shit devastated our (collective garden) yeild last year.

 

[moondawg]

yeah, the leaf loss is what starts hurting the yeild. And if i were in your shoes, id probably lean on the daconil as well. The immunox is ok as long as you have 3o days between the last apps and smoking, but i suspect youre like me and wish like hell that i didnt have to spray nasty dangerous shit on my plants. I hate it but not having any weed is worse.

I think next year on part of my crop, im going to try the Actinovate or Serenade. I belong to a couple of traditional gardening clubs and forums and theyre swaring their having a lot of success with it on tomatos.

Its an active fungus that lives to kill and eat our septoris. When spores land on the plant it attacks them and doesnt allow them to reproduce. Plus it kills the fungus in the soil where it lives.

One of the first suggestions you'll hear from many gardeners is to move your garden. and in turn, it one of the biggest problems i have. Ive been using some of my spots for a long time and havent ever lost a plant to claim jumpers or johnny law and good spots arent that easy to come by. Ive been growing in some spots for nearly 30yrs. Where would i go? Im stuck with my sites and have to battle the disease there.

sounds like you are too sfrenger?

ONe little note sfrenger: If you do have to get heavy with the immunox, you can always make hash from the weed. And if you use the chrloranthanal late, you can water cure. I water cured some last year and it didnt hurt the potency at all. Its basically washing the weed. I soaked mine in water,(thc isnt water soluble) for 15 minutes and removed any potential residue. I mean, we gotta smoke man. Ive been smoking for 40 years and the thought of not having weed just aint somethin i want to consider. Its part of my life and i like it.

 

[moondawg]

I just realised that again this year the leaf spot disease has hit me !

i just uploaded some pics : https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?p=5220752&posted=1#post5220752

what do you say?

miaumiau, its hard for me to say given the pics.. It looks like i see it hiding in there but other things can yellow individual leaves and if you have it, it hasnt taken control yet. If you have it, it will spread throughout the grow quickly and in a week or so, youll see a real threat building, but at this point and from those pics, its hard for me to say.

Keep us posted.

 

[ronbo51]

Went out yesterday to a small music festival. Mid Atlantic Appallachia. They had a truck garden. Every tomato, and they had long rows, was completely covered with blight. It was bad. Crop just getting going. It must just be ignorance, although I would think someone who depends on plants for a living would know the futility of tomatoes without spray. My maters are 7 feet tall, loaded with fruit, and not a spot to be seen. Liquid copper, its not too late. Hit them in a regular rotation once a week. Get the underside of the leaves. I noticed Home Depot sells Bonide LC, Southern States is a great source for farm and garden shit. You just have to be relentless for a few weeks. BTW, Serenade does not work, at least not for me. I wouldn't waste my time or money on it.

 

[moondawg]

Thats good info ronbo. The shits expensive too.

My tomatoes are doing great too. I hit them with immunox about a month ago and not a spot anywhere and maters galore. I use southern states a lot too.

 

[sfrenger]

Moon and Ron....Again, great info. I plan on mixing a little bit of this ACTINO-IRON (Streptomyces lydicus + Iron and Humic Acid) shit in with my soil next year. I'm going to be hitting it hard with everything I have. I may just go hit the girls after work tomorrow with the Daconil or maybe I'll hit them with the immunox. Depends on how I feel. I'm definitely hitting the girls in the morning before work with the LC. That stuff seems to be keeping it in check enough for my girls to outgrow the leaf loss. I wish I could move my garden, but I have a shit-ton of deer around here and I have a 6.5 foot tall deer fence around the garden (I live on ten acres). No can move. I'm going to just have to spread that lawn fungicide shit around by the garden next year then just start spraying them every week and hope for the best. I think that between the Immunox, chlorothalanil, and liquid copper I will be able to nip this in the bud next year. If I have to go through this shit again next year, I may try this (Exel LG Systemic Fungicide) shit early on in the garden. It looks and sounds bad, but like you said, it's better than not having any meds at the end of the season. If I have time, I'll take some pics in the morning after spraying with Liquid Copper and post them in the evening. BTW, my tomatoes are completely disease free. Not a problem to speak of. The liquid copper and chlorothalanil must have cured them.

 

[ronbo51]

I would not bother hitting the ground around the plants much. Once the conditions are ripe the spores are airborne and the numbers are overwhelming. I don't care how isolated your plants are, they will become covered in spores. Best practice is to hit young plants early, then continue as the nighttime conditions approach ideal humidity and the onslaught really begins. Next year will be fine because now you know, and knowing is half the battle.

 

[sfrenger]

Here are the pics before I hit them with Liquid copper this morning. Overnight low of 48 and a high of only 75 today. I'm hoping that helps me get a leg up on this shit. Going to hit them with Immunox tonight and that is the last of the systemic until harvest.