Looking for guerillas with leaf spot diease experience.

[GAME]

Gotta go with KSP on this one. Are you guys not reading anything ? It has the exact same active ingredient !!!!!!! If Eagle 20 if in any way bad, then so is Immunox !!!!!! Just because there's less of the ingredient don't mean anything when you use 20 times as much per application. Get informed please.

 

[D.S. Toker. MD]

Game, after all of my reading, its my view that using the higher concentration can be problematic in a number of ways. I understand your contention that the differences in mixing rates may average out, but there are several factors that make that contention probematic the way is see it. Of course, people sometimes see things differently.

The biggest problems.

1. Many systemic fungicides act as a suppressant for plant growth and the chemical in Eagle and immunox is one that does stifle growth. The higher the dose, the bigger the impact. Because of the higher concerntraiton of the eagle 20, i would fear the buildup of the chemcal as the result of multiple applications. Reduced yeilds are common with systemics especially at high doses.

2. Did you read on the Eagle bottle 'DO NOT APPLY MORE THAT 5 APPLICATIONS PER SEASON"? mycr0butanil builds up with each application and exist in higher concentrations in the tissue and the soil around it. Articles on Eagle suggest that no crop should be planted where it was used for at least 60 days after harvest. Eagle 20 has a PHI of 21 days on most crops, Immunox is 14 days. Eagle 20 is NOT recommended for any vegetable crop. Immunox is safe for tomatoes, cabbage, corn and tobacco.

3. Most experts recommend using 2 fungicides each season, concommittently. When the concentration of one chemical is so high, damage can occur when the second fungicied is applied.


I dont want to use sytemics but i have to. Using the least amount necessary is important to me. I dont want to squirt even one drop on them that isnt necessary. I want to use the smallest amount of the weakest chemical i can to acheieve results.

 

[GAME]

I'm currently looking at a bottle of Eagle 20 and it is absolutely for use in some food crops. Just like KSP has mentioned, it is for use on grapes, apples, and stone fruit. I just ate grapes yesterday and they were delicious.

And I couldn't agree with you more about wanting to use as little as possible. And like I said, when you use 20 x the amount of Immunox, it is nearly EXACTLY the same amount being applied. I just did the math, whereas you use 1.5 oz per gallon with Immunox, I would use .08 oz per gallon. If there's 20 x the amount of MYCLOBUTANIL........ this would be equal to 1.6 oz. Same amount.

So as for talking about buildup occurring in the soil and whatever else, I cannot disagree, but it's no better or worse with Immunox when the same amount of MYCLOBUTANIL is coming out of the end of your sprayer. There isn't a rebuttal that can change this fact. Only problem I see with Immunox as opposed to Eagle 20 is that you are paying 10 times as much for the exact same thing.

 

[hamstring]

Anyone seen brother DS around harvest has to be over for his lat a little worried about him????

 

[moondawg]

Hey guys.

It looks like its about time to dust off the sprayer and collect up the ammo. I have a bottle of Daconil,(chloranthanil) on the way. Last year i was struck with early blight and never really recovered. This year, June 15 im blasiting with immunox early for 2 doses,(30days) and then every 10-14 days with daconil

Another year, another war with the fungus.

 

[moondawg]

Hey folks!

I hope everyones not asleep, the disease isnt. Remember, there's 2 blights, early and late and the early is seen in June.

Sunday, im spraying my first dose of Immunox. The plants are about waste high but Im not taking any chances. Keeping the plants from getting the disease just requires treatment before they get it. Trying to stop it if they do get it is hard fukin work and limited in success.

Get out there. Dont let your plants get it.

Thats why im using the systemic early in the season. Ill use it until mid july and then start with the contact Daconil for the rest of the season. This is an approach that works 100%, but you have to get it on before the plants get the disease or your fucked. Dont get caught with your britches down.

Is anybody there?

 

[wantaknow]

HTC POOL SHOCK ,search the thred it on here some where ,its 1 gram per gal the 1 oz per 5 gal delution ratio ,it is copper basied and may very well help

 

[moondawg]

Anyone seen brother DS around harvest has to be over for his lat a little worried about him????

I know where he's at. He's had some big problems. He smoked his first joint in 67 and buy 72, he was growing a crop every single season and smoking joint after joint every single day.

That joint smoking continued for the next 38 years and then in Oct of last year, a medical problem prevented him from smoking for nearly 4 months and he damn near died from withdrawal.

Thank god he's back on the toking end of a big Sensi star joint and digging holes right and left...... and this year for the first time in 4 years, the blight isnt going to win the battle.

You better get your sprayers out growbuddies!

 

[ronbo51]

I already sprayed my tomatoes twice. Liquid Copper. Last year first year ever had tomatoes stay green and disease free til the bitter end. Of course my "other" plants get the same treatment. Spray early, spray often if you can, especially after rain or oncoming high humidity. You can bet after this years lack of winter the pathogen community is organized and ready for the streets.

 

[moondawg]

I already sprayed my tomatoes twice. Liquid Copper. Last year first year ever had tomatoes stay green and disease free til the bitter end. Of course my "other" plants get the same treatment. Spray early, spray often if you can, especially after rain or oncoming high humidity. You can bet after this years lack of winter the pathogen community is organized and ready for the streets.

Good for you Ronbo, That makes 2 of us that wont have the disease. Youre right about the warm winter and in my case, im pushing aside large skeletons from last year which according to the litterature, is where it lives over winter.

Its raining this morning and tommorow and then its going to be 88-90's this week and thats the recipie. Im so glad ive sprayed and my plants are diseases free.

Ive sprayed my tomatoes too. Last year, that was the first place the disease showed up

 

[ronbo51]

Tomatoes are my "guide" plants. Always the first to show signs of blight, especially early season varieties. Heirlooms have no immunity at all. I had 4 C99 transplants that were in the weeds waiting for me to get them in the ground, which I did yesterday, and they had spots on them. You can keep a plant disease free pretty easy when its in a pot, in the sun, with good air movement. Haul it into the bush and its a different ballgame. Lots and lots of slugs out right now and the heavy dew mornings mean a tough environment for small plants.

 

[zielonylasss]

Here is little bastard eating my loved cannabis:

Every year i had problems with demaged leafs and finally I found culprit! How to chase or kill it?

 

[slider420]

Awesome info Mates Thanks Paddi... for all that you do... PEACE

 

[lob19]

Here is little bastard eating my loved cannabis
Every year i had problems with demaged leafs and finally I found culprit! How to chase or kill it?

I am encotering the same problem this year. Some bugs (not snails for sure) seem to be feeding on young leafs of plants. Especially in areas with nettles growing. I sprayed plants with pesticide and I hope it will get better. I will try to look for the bug you posted but it might be something else too.
I am concerned by the amount of caterpillars emerging almost everywhere.

Zauważyłeś te masy czarnych gąsienic, które się lęgną na kolczastych krzakach? Obawiam się, że niektóre z nich mogą podjadać planty. Sugeruję pryskać chemią. Trochę szkoda, organiczne ziółko rządzi ale chyba ważniejsze aby pozbyć się szkodników.

Życzę powodzenia w walce i postaram się pomóc w miarę rozwoju sytuacji. Zobacz u mnie w temacie "East European Outdoor Project" zdjęcia z "Lemon Spot". Wygląda podobnie

 

[ronbo51]

Liquid Copper will deter slugs and most small leaf eating insects. I went a couple days without checking my garden and had blight racing up one of my heirloom tomatoes as well as a few random low hanging branches. I always prune up to the first fruiting node to keep splashing soil borne pathogens from getting a foothold but I was not on top of it. Just shows how fast shit gets going.

 

[anchient]

high! hope this thread is still alive? sprayed today, early in season to prev the yellow rot. no signs yet. the fucking shit wiped out 1\2 to 3\4 of mine last year, real shame, all WW fem. did not know what to do. and as somebody said above it is real quick. it's in the soil, and trees have have it. i used immunox multi-purpose by spectricide, heavy dose 2 tbs per gal. hope this works! ANY input would help! good luck to everybody! Thanks, anchient

 

[Fat Tone]

I just came from my spot and notice that my plants are starting to get the disease. I sprayed with liquid copper today but its going to be 100 degrees for about 3 weeks straight. No rain in site either.

Does the disease spread in these conditions I described? Should I spray them spray them again or am I just wasting fungicide? I am spraying early in the morning before the sun hits the leaves . I know that the disease spreads the most after it rains and followed by hot days.That's why I asked.

Also having vs major pest problem. Mainly the white bug that
ooks like a little piece of cotton and leaves white residue. Yell that bug. How soon can I spray after applying the liquid copper? Any recommendations on a potent organic pesticide?


I lost almost all of my crop last year buying the pre mixed spray bottle copper which is too weak of a dose. Not trying to go threw that this year. All that hard work just to see your plants die at the end is a pretty bad feeling. You see the conditions I am experiencing so you know what I am going threw.

 

[moondawg]

high! hope this thread is still alive? sprayed today, early in season to prev the yellow rot. no signs yet. the fucking shit wiped out 1\2 to 3\4 of mine last year, real shame, all WW fem. did not know what to do. and as somebody said above it is real quick. it's in the soil, and trees have have it. i used immunox multi-purpose by spectricide, heavy dose 2 tbs per gal. hope this works! ANY input would help! good luck to everybody! Thanks, anchient

The immunox will work ancient but hit them again. I use 2 ozs per gallon and 8-10 days later, another dose and then if im worried at all, 10 days later with another dose. Because of its systemic quality, each application adds to the buildup. I wll apply my 3rd dose next week and that will be my last application of Immunox.

After that i use Daconil. It is not a systemic and last for 14 days or so. The immunox will keep me safe until Aug 1 and the daconil through aug.

Liquid copper works, but if youre not careful the disease will build a resistance to it fast. Its truly critical for growers to remember that MAXIMUM DOSES SHOULD BE USED ALWAYS!!!! If you use a lower dose that isnt 100% effective, a few spores may survive and 2 weeks later when those spores have reproduced many times, the plants have the disease again and the Lcopper or other lightly used product will be of no effect.

 

[moondawg]

You know guys, ive come to the belief that the type of plants that surround your grow play a big part in the presence of these diseases.

Native to my region are wild roses and blackberries. Every patch i have is surrounded by huge wild rose bushes and you can tell they have blackspot, mildew and everything else. The blackberry bush is prone to fungal diseases and moulds and again, every patch i have is thick with blackberries mixed in among the wild roses.

Ive been growing in these area's for years and the spots were chosen in part due to thier thorny, hostile prescence of the roses and bberries but now i think theyre hurting me.

 

[anchient]

thank you! Moondawg, will do what you say. i am at 39 degrees lat. in mountains, we also have alot of multi-flora bushs [ wild roses]. we used to chop holes in the center of big patches, then fertilize the outside of the of multi flora patch with bag ferts from farm stores. never had any animal problems. am growing mad sciencetist from ******s this year. [half herajuna half white widow] very large plants. seems to be living up to the hype,so far. hate the yellow rot. hope it's better this year! thanks for the reply. Good Luck!