Looking for guerillas with leaf spot diease experience.

[ronbo51]

Anyone with blight needs to take action right away as it spreads rapidly through the plant and causes real damage. I spray the Organacide, which is sesame oil and neem mostly, but as was explained here in this thread liquid copper is the answer. Flowers are just forming so you won't be drenching flowers. You need to do it now and get the undersides of the leaves real good.

 

[Johnno]

I'm not sure liquid copper is going to be the answer for anyone once the disease has taken hold, of course prevention is always going to be better than cure and respective weather current weather conditions for each grower also has a bearing.
In my case the copper has slowed it a little but nowhere near enough to get me through to the end, already it has killed my seedsman white widow and after almost 48 hours of nonstop rain I guess the effect of anything that is sprayed onto them is going to be greatly diminished.
I have ordered actinovate, dithane m-45 and spectracide immunox, the latter has been reported as being quite effective.
I've also read elsewhere that burned sulphur is good but is obviously not an option for many guerilla growers.
Personally I didn't do my homework before embarking on my first outdoor grow, the mold and fungi I was watching for was PM and budrot so before next year comes I have time to source strains with a good resistance.

 

[idiit]

poor nutrition can make plants susceptible to many diseases.

i grow in soil so shitty that i'm the only grower around here that can actually bring in quality bud product outdoors. i'm serious. thousands have tried and failed. i get my best results growing in areas around creeks and i look for tall leafy weeds already growing in the area before i attempt my grow.

i recently discovered that most soil here outside floodplains has a serious micro-nutrient deficiency. i was surprised since i had added volcanic rock dust in ample quantities to my gardens in "shit soil" areas as part of my organic amendment program.

then it hit me. just because you add a nutrient/amendment to the soil does not mean it is available to the plants (chelated).

i happen to have sea-crop already in stock. sea-crop ( water suspended concentrated de-salinated sea solids) contains already chelated micro-nutrients in a perfect nature balanced ratio. i added sea-crop at more than recommended dosages and instantly saw vigor/health regained.


i recommend trying a sea-solid product application as part of your program.

 

[Johnno]

Even though I'm guerilla growing it wass not possible to plant directly into the ground so they are in bags of 3 parts sterilised multi-purpose compost to 1 part perlite, I also used mycorrhizae and feed bio-bizz fish mix, rhizotonic and just lately organic liquid seaweed, the plants absolutely thrive on the fish mix so under nourishment was not an issue, here we had a dry warm Summer then got a baking heatwave for a month and then torrential rain and high humidity so that right there is ideal for fungal spores to rear their ugly microscopic heads.
Again as I mentioned previously I wasn't fully prepared, not for the wild goats who ate 6 plants and seedlings and will get through just about anything , not for the pests and definitely not for the fungi.
While trying to sort out the leaf spot I took my eye off the ball with regard to pests and now something has been feasting on my plants but I cannot find anything on them, I've been using slug pellets pretty much successfully so my guess is caterpillars, neem oil, SB plant invogorator and garlic concentrate hasn't done the job so today I buy wettable sulphur and hit them with that.
If anyone recognises the damage I'd love to know what's doing it.

 

[idiit]

^ i still don't see good healthy dose of chelated trace minerals. the fish emulsion and sea weed are not to my knowledge adequate trace mineral supplements in an extreme trace mineral deficient medium. this is what i think might be the problem. trace mineral deficiency is a critical facet that very well could be the cause of your problems. you could test with water soluble peters/miracle grow just to see. sea-crop is organic. when i added sea-crop to my soil mediums the difference was awesome. i've got 30+ years with multiple gardens most years od guerrilla experience and it's been a real bitch. from what i've seen in my grows this might be the solution.

 

[Johnno]

Cheers man.
I have the GH flora series that I using for an abandoned hempy grow and have fed the plants micro on about 3 occassions.
So do you think the plants are more susceptible to pests because they may be lacking in micro nutrients?

 

[Hash Man]

Hi I have a few plants with leaf spot. I can get the liquid copper by bomide, I also found something called liqui-cop, thats a bit cheaper... Here are the pictures.





I just spoke with organic labratories and they say that it it ok to mix thier PLANT DOCTOR, a systemic broad spectrum fungacide, with liquid copper as long as the ph is below 6.5.... Anyone have any experience with this? Thnx a bunch, Hash Man.

 

[Johnno]

I found the copper didn't really do it for me so I also sprayed with spectracide immunox after reading good things about it on this thread, I should see the results today as it's about 4 days since spraying.
Hopefully it has dented the LS progress.
Good luck with yours.

 

[THC123]

I have 4 weeks to go will this disease attack buds as well?

 

[Johnno]

I have 4 weeks to go will this disease attack buds as well?

The leaf spot hasn't attacked my buds but like you I've 4 weeks to go also, what it does do is kill the leaves so the yield of a heavily infected plant is affected.
You should pull any affected leaves and remove them from the garden.

The leaf spot has been overtaken by bud rot in my garden, goddam weather is 15 celsius with RH at 80%+ and it's wet.

Good luck.

 

[THC123]

I found something organic that works, they are capsules with herbal oils that you put in the soil.

The herbs support the plants immune system and provide protection for 4 weeks.

I removed all affected leaves and after adding the capsulesi still havent seen a new infection.

It also clearly states will not alter the taste of edible plants

They are called pireco capsules

 

[forgetmeplease]

Potassium bicarbonate works very well and there are new products out now that have spreader stickers included in the mix.

 

[MikeChapman22]

All the images above give a hint of bacterial leaf spot and other plants in the background have also contributed to the damage. Initially, try to spray the plants with green cure and once the infection is milder, consider using a more powerful fungicide for the soil. Make sure you spray the entire ground in the surrounding, but keep the spray away from your marijuana plants.

You can expect the new plants to grow healthier the next season, but you’ll have to begin spraying the green cure right from the beginning. Remove any unwanted plants to enhance the impact of the fungicide.

 

[Team Microbe]

Prevention is the best defense to outdoor fungal/pest/disease infections hands down. Foliar spraying with compost tea as well as a good inoculant to cover & protect all leaf surfaces will prevent any fungal hyphae from getting through to the leaf surface and attaching a root to the leaf to feed from. Beneficial bacteria form a layer of protection from invaders like this. I suspect the leaf spot disease in the first post of this thread was fungal-related. I start my seeds in a mild inoculant solution (DEM's Lush Roots) and spray every 2 weeks up until flowering begins.

For caterpillars, BT is the best bet to prevent those bastards. I've noticed strains like C99 really attract them as well... not sure if this is strain-specific or what.

Be conscious of air flow and humidity levels come harvest season. Make sure you space your plants more than you suspect is needed just to be safe. We shouldn't be planting close out in the bush anyways, for security reasons pretty much.

Pruning inside growth or "lollipopping" will prevent mold come late flower and will beef up your main colas a bit more as well.

Mulching will increase plant immunity immensely since it retains moisture so well. 90% of microbial activity resides at the top 2" of the soil so keeping this area moist is vital since organic gardens depend solely on functioning soil systems. If your microbe army is happy, they will keep your plant happy so mulch mulch mulch!

Full sun is also a great defense to mold and mildew as morning hours typically are full of moisture from the dew that's settled... it's critical to evaporate that from your plants asap so morning sun is a good idea.

Strain selection is also a big factor as well though, finding genetics that are bred at your latitude will prevent pre-flowering and late-finishing. Research your breeders and where they come from! There are many breeders specifically focused on early-finishing mold-resistant genetics.

 

[sm0ketastic]

Yesterday, I realized I have the leaf spot disease It attacked my only outdoor plant -- my first grow ever -- about a week ago, approximately one week into flowering. At first, I just thought it was natural for a couple of the lower leaves to turn yellow.
Then, leaves higher up the plant were beginning to turn and fall off. I got concerned and my research led me here.
Upon further inspection, I've noticed that a lot of the foliage in the forest around my plant has the fungus. I guess I chose a bad spot.
I sprayed it pretty heavily with Spectracide Immunox yesterday. Here's hoping that saves the plant.

 

[Selecta]

Leaf Septoria last year


Sweet Tooth 3 Bx 2

8.9

10.10

Shiskaberry x Sweet Tooth

8.9

10.10

 

[OakyJoe]

on the lower left?

 

[hamstring]

selecta

Sorry to see the leaf spot but great pics of what this shit can do to plants. I have it again this year and some plants will not make it. The good news is in the Midwest at least right around September it shuts off leaf spot just stops for the most part. So anything that made it this far has a chance to produce at least a little bud.

I have plants physically right next to each other and one plant is hit hard and the other is fine. It does have to do with overall health and strain/pheno. My more sativa leaning plants got hit the hardest.

 

[Swampcracker]

Yesterday, I realized I have the leaf spot disease It attacked my only outdoor plant -- my first grow ever -- about a week ago, approximately one week into flowering. At first, I just thought it was natural for a couple of the lower leaves to turn yellow.
Then, leaves higher up the plant were beginning to turn and fall off. I got concerned and my research led me here.
Upon further inspection, I've noticed that a lot of the foliage in the forest around my plant has the fungus. I guess I chose a bad spot.
I sprayed it pretty heavily with Spectracide Immunox yesterday. Here's hoping that saves the plant.

Yes the bacterial leaf spot has led me here as well. Hamstring you dont know be as this is my 1st post here but I want to thank you for this journal. I was banging my head against a wall for two years with this problem and still have not figured it out.. Past 2-3 years have been by far the worst in fact I dont remember having this problem ever prior to 2010. This season is looking about the same !

 

[catbuds]

I cannot remember the name of the fungicide I treated the ground with but it was a bad ass one that was not for edibles.i just kept it off the plants and used the greencure heavy and it froze it.This year i didn't see any sign of it until a week ago and it was mild and i sprayed right away with a double dose of the greencure and it has stopped where it was.The woods were also burned off this winter so that could have done it too instead of the fungicide i used.

Guys, keep in mind we're talking BACTERIAL disease. Fungus is not the same as bacteria.
- Whatever you find that works in your area as a control, just start early as a preventative. If its out there, you'll most likley get it. Crop farmers have been plagued by disease, blights & bugs forever. We all have to suck it up & except the fact that crop failure happens. Especially since all diseases aren't curable. Hard to accept, harder not to beat yourself up over it.