Looking for guerillas with leaf spot diease experience.

[Tactical Farmer]

No luck with that HP + BS mix on budrot. One badly infected branch got extra sprayed looked slightly worse than it did 1 1/2 days ago.

It did work excellent on some PM earlier in the season though.

Soaked them all down with the Serenade tea yesteray but we got HEAVY rain for a solid day after that application so it prob got washed away.

Going to re-do the serenade tea as soon as it drys up "if it does"...

thanks DS..

 

[mad librettist]

Heya D.S.,

I wanted to quickly address the issue of spraying higher than recommended dosages of anything.

If you stress out your plant with your preventive treatment, you are only hurting the plant and making it more susceptible.

Has anyone tried the neem oil yet? If you mix it properly (use a blender), it is very effective.

 

[D.S. Toker. MD]

Hey ml

I started out with recommended doses of the products i used - all of them. But after seeing the effect of 1/2 cure, which according to the litterature ( and my experience) is a disasterous outcome, i kicked it up. To "mostly cure" the diesease is to allow some of the spores to survivve. Once those spores have reproduced, the product youve used goes from 70-80% effective, to 30% effective because the fungus has quickly become resistant.

I read several articles in traditional gardening books that strongly recommended against using minimal or reduced doses. I started out using 1 oz of Liquid copper as a preventative and what i did was create Copper resistant fungi on my plants because 30 days later, the copper wasnt working.

I then went to immunox, and while an improvement could be seen in the plants, clearly they hadnt been cured. With the disease being 100% fatal, there's room for taking a chance so i sprayed them with 1 1/2 max dose and the plants actually responded well. clearly cannabis needs the higher dose.

But in general let me add this. I had a couple of bag seed plants that i had started in june in case i needed replacements. Once the disease set in, i tested my spray on those plants and even with a double dose of immunox and a double dose of copper, i couldnt tell any problems with the health of the plant, except that it improved somewhat after the application. This fungus is wicked.

Ill be ready next summer. I thought i was this summmer.

 

[GAME]

Eagle 20 holding strong still. Cured ? Probably not cured. The best I have used though. Really put the fungus in a chokehold.

 

[jeffd7766]

ok guys i am in need of some serious help. I have been dealing with this disease for a while now and really just found out what it is thanks to this thread. I have read and re read every post and learned tons. And just wanted to thank everyone for contributing.

Here is my situation, i have had the disease for a while now and just made the connection as to what it is. I am 4-6 weeks from being done flowering. I hit them good and hard with LC on thursday. I used 2.5oz/gal and soaked the hell out of them. I went to look at them today and they are seemingly worse. Ones that were not affected are now showing signs of it.

The temps in my area have been below 60 at night and not over 75 during the day and low humidity. What seems to be happening is any place that had a spot before is now dry and crispy, but it seems that its affecting the small leafs on the buds and thus causing bud rot. I am still seeing yellowing and faster now that i sprayed.

Can i hit them again in a day or so? Should i hit them with GC to fight the rot? I am at a loss as for what i should do, i am looking at loosing a considerable amount here and any advice is much appreciated.

I also want to say that the temps are going to stay low and not much for rain in sight.

Is it possible that what im seeing is the affects of the LC killing the disease and thats what making those leaves crispy like that?

Thank you to anyone who is willing to help me out

 

[GAME]

Well, hard to say without seeing photos. Regardless, it sucks to be dealing with this halfway through flowering, because the residue from the LC will stay on leaf/bud materials unless a few good rains wash it off. Since you already applied, I would apply again in 3-4 days. I would also combat it with the GC as well since like DS said, seems to work best when using a few methods of treatment rather than any single approach. You also likely won't see results immediately with LC, may take a week or so and a few applications. Too bad you are into flowering, because Eagle 20 works against leaf spot and also botrytis (bud rot). I was using LC, but a nice application of Eagle 20 smashed the leaf spot pretty good. But this far into flowering, you can't use it. Also, as we slip into Fall, the lower temps will help slow it to a crawl. Hopefully you get some 50 degree nights and low humidity. Best of luck.

 

[jeffd7766]

i know and i have pics i just dont feel safe posting them, they look very similar to the pics on page one, except the grey parts on the leafs are now dry and crispy, and mostly on the ends of the leaves. I will hit them one more time with the LC and then keep on them with the GC for bud rot.



And i will NEVER tell myself " its nothing bad just a little ph swing or nute burn." AGAIN

could have been easily avoided NOT GOOD

 

[D.S. Toker. MD]

Hey jeff

Jeff, if youre truly 6 weeks from harvest, i think i would hit them with 2 fluid ounces per gallon (the directions call for 1.5oz's, but i used that and it wasnt enough), of Immunox and then 3 days later, hit them with a 2nd dose of Lc. The immunox is a systemic and enters the tissue of the plant and kills the disease from the inside. The immunox is curative and will stop the disease. The LC is only protective/preventative: its on the surface of the leaves and prevents the disease from taking hold. In my area, that combination seems to be about 80-90% effective. You need to cure the plants and protect them from further infection.

The immunox is defensive for 2weeks or so but deteriorates after that and is no longer completely effective. I sprayed my first immunox on the 20th of august and i cut some branches off of that plant on saturday and dried them out. Myself and since then, 3 others have smoked a joint of the weed and we're all in agreement that there is no detectable sense of the immunox in taste or effect. I believe that 3 - 4 weeks after application, the immunox has deteriorated beyond detection. The directions say it works for up to 2 weeks and 30 days out it is safe. Since saturday, myself and another person have smoked 5-6 joints each and we both agree the weed is fine.

 

[jeffd7766]

well after buying the immunox, i went ahead and looked at last years notes and im actually 2.5-4 weeks from being done so i decided to hold off on that. But i will put it to good use next year and much earlier.

I did hit them again with LC i hope it wasnt to soon...i did it last thursday. I used 7 oz of lc in about 3 gal on water. Hope this slows is down....how soon can i apply the GC after today?

Thank you guys again very much

 

[mtbazz]

Great thread. Seems like there is more into out there this year about combatting this disease than ever.

I have two plants in containers, both Sour Life Savers that have so far been immune to this, but with all the recent rains we have had here they too have succumbed.

In order to save them, I gave them a good does of LC.

Being that they are 3.5 into flowering and about 4 weeks from finishing was this a mistake?

 

[Leroy Brown]

Add me to the club, 1 of my spots is getting ripped through. I just sprayed them down with draconil, nt sure how effective it will be, I couldn't find liquid copper, anyone know where I can? Current plan is to get back out there in 3 days & hit them with immunox + LC

 

[darkstar12]

Add me to the club, 1 of my spots is getting ripped through. I just sprayed them down with draconil, nt sure how effective it will be, I couldn't find liquid copper, anyone know where I can? Current plan is to get back out there in 3 days & hit them with immunox + LC

I had to order LC from amazon. Shows up in a day or two.

As for applying before harvest, I sprayed some plants three weeks ago and harvested ripe buds today. Between now and than we had some significant rainfall so I am sure much of it washed away between now and than.

 

[D.S. Toker. MD]

Great thread. Seems like there is more into out there this year about combatting this disease than ever.

I have two plants in containers, both Sour Life Savers that have so far been immune to this, but with all the recent rains we have had here they too have succumbed.

In order to save them, I gave them a good does of LC.

Being that they are 3.5 into flowering and about 4 weeks from finishing was this a mistake?

mtbazz, for LC, i consider 2 weeks from harvest and at least one good rainfall to wash it off to be the baseline for saftey on LC. I harvested my first plant saturday and it had been sprayed with LC on Aug 28th. Ive twisted up a couple and its fine. LC is Orni listed for organic growing . Its fairly safe 2 weeks out.

Even without the 2 weeks, one could take the buds and emerse them gently into a tub of water before drying the weed and that would wash off any remaining residue without harming the weed. Ive done it a bunch - just be gentle and dont slosh the buds around.

 

[goready]

wow

 

[jeffd7766]

oh man i have a question now, i sprayed mine last thursday and had to take a few limbs on sunday, and today smoked a pipe or two. Am i going to get sick? It didnt taste funky and i didnt notice any residue on the leafs when trimming. What do you think?

 

[StrapAssassin42]

oh man i have a question now, i sprayed mine last thursday and had to take a few limbs on sunday, and today smoked a pipe or two. Am i going to get sick? It didnt taste funky and i didnt notice any residue on the leafs when trimming. What do you think?

LOL....you're good dude! I've been spraying LC on my indoor

plants all summer up to 3 weeks before harvest and i haven't

been washing buds off. My skin is turning a little blue but not

worried!! J/K LMAO


Well fellas....it got down to 26 degrees last night and 33 the

night before. I lost two plants the first night, they were pretty

weak from the fungus already. I covered the rest last night and

they seem to have made it. I'm guessing that along with the

mosquitoes i'm done dealing with the fungus and bud rot... i hate

to make that assumption but it got balls cold and its been very

dry. I really wish i was ready to harvest but i got at least 3

weeks to go... i hope it warms up a little.


Auto flower is the way to go next year... fungus, paranoia, and

early freeze is pushing me in the auto direction. What kind of

yield can i expect from autos outside?

 

[Tactical Farmer]

This freaking season is the worst ive seen in the last 4.

It just keeps getting worse every year with the same old problems & new shit to really fuck things up.

Epic rain & the late flowering is really busting my balls.

Im going to test something new tonight, made some homemade colloidal silver foliar as budrot is destroying my plants.

* im new to autos but it sounds like a GREAT PLAN...

 

[darkstar12]

This freaking season is the worst ive seen in the last 4.

It just keeps getting worse every year with the same old problems & new shit to really fuck things up.

Epic rain & the late flowering is really busting my balls.

Im going to test something new tonight, made some homemade colloidal silver foliar as budrot is destroying my plants.

* im new to autos but it sounds like a GREAT PLAN...

pfffft...could not agree more. I had high hopes for a huge harvest this year with stellar genetics, and everything was going according to that plan up until Irene and the torrential rain hit. The plants that would have been ready to take down this week I had to take down almost two weeks ago due to mold, blight (despite copious LC applications) and PM.

The remainder of what I have is probably not going to be ready till mid october, if they make it that long without getting mold, ripped, or po-po'd.

I won't let this stop me...I still run indoors with great results and quality genetics, but for outdoor I will def. be looking into autoflowering or short season strain.

 

[D.S. Toker. MD]

Howdy all


Well, the seasons over. I have some plants to harvest in about 2 weeks but the growings over and im just waiting now. My thoughts and actions are now aimed at next year. I will spend the winter growing some bagseed plants and spraying them with varying strengths of my fungal formula for next season:



LESSONS LEARNED

This is the part where i hope all you guys that have been spraying and posting will tell us your results. You know by now,(unfortunately) how much success you had and how so its my hope you will share it. Every bit of info is important.

I lost 1/2 of my crop which is in line with last year, but i had hopes of doing better this year after discovering that the Liquid Copper controlled it. But ive learned a great deal about fungus this summer and a number of factors worked against me this season. The LC didnt work.

I dont know if it was my fault for starting the season with a reduced dose of LC as a preventative attempt or whether it was just more viralent - I just dont know.

Late in the season, i used a systemic called "immunox". It has a 14 day Pre Harvest INterval - the length of time before its safe to use after the last app. It worked initially but as with the copper, it didnt completely stop the disease. I applied a 2nd app a week later and it seemed to improve the plants. Ive smoked some of the weed taken at 21 days after the last application and it seems fine. I think the immunox would have worked if my initial dose had been higher and if the disease wasnt so prevalent by the time they were sprayed. There's no question that treatments applied early when the first few leaves yellow and fall is much more effective than when the entire plant seems infected.

Next year, i will use a mix of 2 differnt fungicides that enhance each others effectiveness. I will be mixing Spectracide Immunox- a systemic, and Daconil which is a contact preventative, at the same time, in the same sprayer. Ill grow out some mexi bag seed this winter and spray the plants with differnt dosages to make sure i dont harm my plants in the field.

The other approach i almost went with is that of strobulins. Actinovate and Serenade can be used together like the Immunox and Daconil in the same way, but the bacteria in Actinovaate and Serenade is organic. Its not toxic and its claimed one can harvest the next day after application and be safe. They are more expensive as well. There are a lot of testimonials around on conventional garden sites that claim the Actinovate worked much better than Liquid Copper or Daconil. I may get some and spray my test plants this winter.

 

[ronbo51]

I used serenade and a lecithin/sesame organic product last year in combo and the blight laughed at my efforts. I had pretty good success with the copper for both my tomatoes and autos this summer even though this summer was even worse blight wise than last year. At the beginning of this thread I said I have been fighting blight my entire gardening life. I have tried lots of tactics. In the end the only thing that works is the same stuff farmers turn to when real money and an entire crop is on the line: hard core systemics done at the right time. Disease resistance is one of the primary reasons for hybridizing. Breeders are going to have to start factoring this in when developing phenotypes. How many of you would buy seeds to a proven winner with killer disease resistance? Right.
On another related note. To the people who are talking about going to autos next year I want to caution you to do a smallish test plot before you jump in neck deep. This is my third year for autos. I cannot grow long season plants where I live, so I have played with autos quite a bit. Indoors I have really been pleased. Good yields, high quality, no muss no fuss, lots of large colas and color, no problems. Outside is a different deal. This year I did the same as last, starting seeds indoors in late April and set out 40 or so plants in a 4x8 plot in good spot with lots of sun. And this year was just about the same results: not much. Guerrilla autos just don't fare well. They are not vigorous growers out in the bush, and they are prone to mold like nothing else. No matter what the conditions it is almost impossible to get autos to mature outdoors without mold.
The only way I have had pretty much solid success with autos outdoors is to transplant into smart pots and keep them close to the house where I can tend them and baby them along. I use walmart type bags that hold 4 gallons of soil. They are green so they blend in to the environment. The handles make them very portable to tuck into spots. Using this method I always have success keeping mold off. But you will not produce weight. Think patio with autos, not guerrilla success.