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Looking for guerillas with leaf spot diease experience.
- Thread starter hamstring
- Start date
darkstar12
Member
Wow, mine are also. Im at 41 dg. and in years past Ive been close to being 3-4 weeks from harvest at this point. this year everything still has like 6 weeks to go (at least).
Also, the Hurricane has unfortunately created security problems for me. While my plants did not sustain major damage, many of the trees and surrounding vegetation were knocked down so that my grow spot is a little easier for a random person to walk into.
This basically means that I can not get out there to apply LC with the frequency I was. I might try and sneak out there after dark tonight to do one final application, but after that I will not plan on visiting until things are close to harvest.
Hopefully this disease will be winding down about now with the cooler night time temps and dryer weather that september brings?
Howdy all
Well, i have disapointing news. While the Immunox worked initially, the disease is reasserting itself and leaves have began to yellow and defoliate again. When i first sensed it was happening, i mixed up another, stronger batch and hit them again. No real effect. They are so far into flowering now that i hate to treat them with anything more at this point, but im disappointed in the immunox.
It may be that the dose for the immunox was too low and ive learned what a big problem that can be. The dosages called for 1 1/4 - 1 1/2 ounces pre gallon, but the last dose i used was 2 fluid ounces, but once you spray a plant with a weaker dose of treatment, the spores that survive that week application will be resistant to higher doses so once you treat with a low dose and it doesnt completely wipe out the disease, persuing applications will be less and less effective.
I feel like if my initial dose had actually been about 3 times the recommended dose, it might have worked. Im waiting to hear from GAME becuase he treated with EAgle 20 which is 20% of the killing agent whereas Immunox is 1.5%
Lets here from StrapA and Game. What are you guys seeng?
Well, i have disapointing news. While the Immunox worked initially, the disease is reasserting itself and leaves have began to yellow and defoliate again. When i first sensed it was happening, i mixed up another, stronger batch and hit them again. No real effect. They are so far into flowering now that i hate to treat them with anything more at this point, but im disappointed in the immunox.
It may be that the dose for the immunox was too low and ive learned what a big problem that can be. The dosages called for 1 1/4 - 1 1/2 ounces pre gallon, but the last dose i used was 2 fluid ounces, but once you spray a plant with a weaker dose of treatment, the spores that survive that week application will be resistant to higher doses so once you treat with a low dose and it doesnt completely wipe out the disease, persuing applications will be less and less effective.
I feel like if my initial dose had actually been about 3 times the recommended dose, it might have worked. Im waiting to hear from GAME becuase he treated with EAgle 20 which is 20% of the killing agent whereas Immunox is 1.5%
Lets here from StrapA and Game. What are you guys seeng?
tristynhawk
Member
was talking to him elsewhere, and he's liking the eagle 20.
TokerOftheSouth
Member
Hate to hear that Doc, my girls are not the prettiest either now
Its still so hot n dry here, no rain in 3 wks now, Irene gave us nothing, just wind
Bigger fan leaves are dying off sum, im just watering to keep them alive more or less
Im thinking more about just doing strait AF's OD next yr, Just gotta get this pheno locked and producing a solid 2-3 oz in 70 days or less from seed, im getting closer buddy
Tactical Farmer
Member
Hey dudes,
Call me lucky or whatever but im not seeing any spots ?
The only problem I have had the last 4 seasons is budrot & a little PM for a short time.
Im not doing that wussy backyard stuff either, more like Brown Dirt Warrior Jr here.. lol, jk
just been using OMRI or homemade sprays.
Monterey Garden Insect Spray: http://www.amazon.com/Spinosad-Garden-Insect-Spray-Monterey/dp/B002BP12LI/ref=pd_sim_ol_3
Organocide: http://www.amazon.com/ORGANIC-LABOR...1?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1314817271&sr=1-1
Dyna Grow Neem: Only early on for bugs (might be least affective product or major problems)
http://www.amazon.com/Dyna-Gro-Pure...GXVQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1314817321&sr=8-1
_______________________________________________________________________
This year stepped up spraying to once a week & added a few more products to rotate into the weekly lineup.
Arm & Hammer Baking Soda + 3% Hydrogen Peroxide: 1 tsp BS + 1/2 Cup 3% HP = per gal
Serenade: http://www.amazon.com/Serenade-AGRS...3?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1314817358&sr=1-3
Bonide Liquid Copper: http://www.amazon.com/Bonide-811-Liquid-Copper-Pint/dp/B000LNXY22/ref=pd_sim_ol_1
And today got my homemade colloidal silver generator going (SUPER EASY) which will be used to made anti bacterial / fungal sprays, etc, etc, etc....
Like I said I have not battled with "the spot" in the last 4 seasons "knock on wood"
I am very interested to see how these new items work on budrot as it was been a major pita in the past.
Call me lucky or whatever but im not seeing any spots ?
The only problem I have had the last 4 seasons is budrot & a little PM for a short time.
Im not doing that wussy backyard stuff either, more like Brown Dirt Warrior Jr here.. lol, jk
just been using OMRI or homemade sprays.
Monterey Garden Insect Spray: http://www.amazon.com/Spinosad-Garden-Insect-Spray-Monterey/dp/B002BP12LI/ref=pd_sim_ol_3
Organocide: http://www.amazon.com/ORGANIC-LABOR...1?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1314817271&sr=1-1
Dyna Grow Neem: Only early on for bugs (might be least affective product or major problems)
http://www.amazon.com/Dyna-Gro-Pure...GXVQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1314817321&sr=8-1
_______________________________________________________________________
This year stepped up spraying to once a week & added a few more products to rotate into the weekly lineup.
Arm & Hammer Baking Soda + 3% Hydrogen Peroxide: 1 tsp BS + 1/2 Cup 3% HP = per gal
Serenade: http://www.amazon.com/Serenade-AGRS...3?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1314817358&sr=1-3
Bonide Liquid Copper: http://www.amazon.com/Bonide-811-Liquid-Copper-Pint/dp/B000LNXY22/ref=pd_sim_ol_1
And today got my homemade colloidal silver generator going (SUPER EASY) which will be used to made anti bacterial / fungal sprays, etc, etc, etc....
Like I said I have not battled with "the spot" in the last 4 seasons "knock on wood"
I am very interested to see how these new items work on budrot as it was been a major pita in the past.
StrapAssassin42
Member
Damn Doc!! I've been concerned about my that happening to my outdoor girls. I was out there a week or so ago and everything was great and i was feeling confident.
As you know i've been fighting the same bitch indoors (dont ask me how that happened) and i sprayed them with 1 1/4 oz per gallon 10 days ago and they looked great for about a week and now its hammering my weakest plants. I'm so disgusted that i can't wait for winter...(without a humidifier my room stays around 15% humidity) that should destroy this persistant bitch!
Really hoping for a fix now though....considering spraying immunox again but dont want to make it immune if i need to use Eagle 20... might haveta just do that. I'm going to research the Bayer Advanced Disease Control but Eagle 20 might be it cuz im about done with this bullshit!
Is aspirin the same principle as using a silica supplement?
As you know i've been fighting the same bitch indoors (dont ask me how that happened) and i sprayed them with 1 1/4 oz per gallon 10 days ago and they looked great for about a week and now its hammering my weakest plants. I'm so disgusted that i can't wait for winter...(without a humidifier my room stays around 15% humidity) that should destroy this persistant bitch!
Really hoping for a fix now though....considering spraying immunox again but dont want to make it immune if i need to use Eagle 20... might haveta just do that. I'm going to research the Bayer Advanced Disease Control but Eagle 20 might be it cuz im about done with this bullshit!
Is aspirin the same principle as using a silica supplement?
StrapAssassin42
Member
Can Bayer Advanced™ Disease Control for Roses, Flowers & Shrubs be applied to edible crops?
Bayer Advanced™ Disease Control for Roses, Flowers & Shrubs should not be applied to plants grown for food.
This is posted on Bayer's page.
Are you sure that stuff is safe Retro Grow?
Bayer Advanced™ Disease Control for Roses, Flowers & Shrubs should not be applied to plants grown for food.
This is posted on Bayer's page.
Are you sure that stuff is safe Retro Grow?
jack Haze
Member
I'm seeing the same thing D.S....To a degree.
It's for sure that some strains are resilient to this fungi. I hit all my plants. The Jack Herers have rebound and I see virtually no damage on them. I have Afghani#1xSafari Mix and they were never touched. Same thing with O.HazexSkunk#1's, they never showed any signs of it.
I have a couple White Widows and OG Kush's and although they looked great after spraying. They've all been re-affected. I'm thinking had I began spraying at the start of the season, they'd probably all be alright.
It's for sure that some strains are resilient to this fungi. I hit all my plants. The Jack Herers have rebound and I see virtually no damage on them. I have Afghani#1xSafari Mix and they were never touched. Same thing with O.HazexSkunk#1's, they never showed any signs of it.
I have a couple White Widows and OG Kush's and although they looked great after spraying. They've all been re-affected. I'm thinking had I began spraying at the start of the season, they'd probably all be alright.
Had i used a larger dose, mine might have been good Jack. But im going to say this now and keep saying it because ive found it is critical - abosolutely critical!:
DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES, EVER USE THE MINIMUM DOSE OR A REDUCED DOSE OF WHAT EVER YOUR USING.
If you use the minimum dose and even 2 spores survive the treatment, they will reproduce and in 2 weeks it will be back and pissing on the plants willl be just as effective at that point as another application of the product. The spores that survived have reproduced and they are resistant to your chemicals.
While reading, i came across that advice repeatedly in traditional gardening sites and im suffering the effects that they indicated i would suffer if minimum doses are used. Resistance to the treatments.
SO, MY ADVICE TO EVERYONE IS TO READ THE MAXIMUM DOSE AND THEN ADD 1/2 DOSE AGAIN MAKING THE CONCENTRATION 50% HIGHER THAN RECOMMENDATIONS.
WE want to hold back so as to not kill the plants, but ive done some experiments this summer that indicate that cannabis is a tough plant and can handle it. My last application of immunox was 2X the recommended dose and the plants are fine. Ive sprayed plants with 3 full ounces of liquid copper and not a single limp leaf.
THE HIGHER THE CONCENTRATION OF TREATMENT SUBSTANCE, THE BETTER YOUR CHANCE ARE TO CURE.
If youre afraid of killing the plant then take a limb and blast it with twice what you think youre going to use and see if it damages the plant. I say it wont. Ive found the plants are able to take a hell of a chemical whack and not be hampered one bit.
In past years at several points we had biblical plagues of pest. One year whiteflies were epidemic and when you shook a plant it looked like it was snowing so i blasted them with Rotenone/pyrethrins concentrate at 10X the recommended dose and they dont skip a beat. Cannabis is a tough plant in structure and can handle the doses..
DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES, EVER USE THE MINIMUM DOSE OR A REDUCED DOSE OF WHAT EVER YOUR USING.
If you use the minimum dose and even 2 spores survive the treatment, they will reproduce and in 2 weeks it will be back and pissing on the plants willl be just as effective at that point as another application of the product. The spores that survived have reproduced and they are resistant to your chemicals.
While reading, i came across that advice repeatedly in traditional gardening sites and im suffering the effects that they indicated i would suffer if minimum doses are used. Resistance to the treatments.
SO, MY ADVICE TO EVERYONE IS TO READ THE MAXIMUM DOSE AND THEN ADD 1/2 DOSE AGAIN MAKING THE CONCENTRATION 50% HIGHER THAN RECOMMENDATIONS.
WE want to hold back so as to not kill the plants, but ive done some experiments this summer that indicate that cannabis is a tough plant and can handle it. My last application of immunox was 2X the recommended dose and the plants are fine. Ive sprayed plants with 3 full ounces of liquid copper and not a single limp leaf.
THE HIGHER THE CONCENTRATION OF TREATMENT SUBSTANCE, THE BETTER YOUR CHANCE ARE TO CURE.
If youre afraid of killing the plant then take a limb and blast it with twice what you think youre going to use and see if it damages the plant. I say it wont. Ive found the plants are able to take a hell of a chemical whack and not be hampered one bit.
In past years at several points we had biblical plagues of pest. One year whiteflies were epidemic and when you shook a plant it looked like it was snowing so i blasted them with Rotenone/pyrethrins concentrate at 10X the recommended dose and they dont skip a beat. Cannabis is a tough plant in structure and can handle the doses..
Ok, so heres what ive done. I have 3 plants that are 60% defoliated with yellow leaves on them. In a week they would be in terrible shape and in 10 days they would be dead so i said what the hell.
I sprayed them on Monday with a double dose of immunox - 3 fluid ounces per gallon. The max dose on the bottle is 1.5 ounces. They were fine on tues -wed so this mornig i hit the same plants with 3 full ounces of liquid Copper. The max dose recommendation for it is 2 fluid ounces.
As of now, the plants have the systemic immunox working from the inside of the plant tissue and the leaves are coated with a very high dose of Liquid Copper. We'll see what happens, ill keep you posted.
I sprayed them on Monday with a double dose of immunox - 3 fluid ounces per gallon. The max dose on the bottle is 1.5 ounces. They were fine on tues -wed so this mornig i hit the same plants with 3 full ounces of liquid Copper. The max dose recommendation for it is 2 fluid ounces.
As of now, the plants have the systemic immunox working from the inside of the plant tissue and the leaves are coated with a very high dose of Liquid Copper. We'll see what happens, ill keep you posted.
StrapAssassin42
Member
I've been considering the same thing... using both copper and immunox... gona use your dosing recommendations.
In the research that i've done is seems as though this is an ongoing problem.... NOT ONE YOU CAN KILL!... thats a scary thought but it seems that suppression not destruction is the method.
It seems that you may have a differing opinion Doc, do you believe that if hit hard enough with the correct substance (???) that we can actually destroy our common enemy?
I'm going to be looking into those systemics they use for tobbaco that you posted a while back Doc....did you ever come up with anything from that oooor??
Yes strap. I think i made a terrible mistake TWICE! I wasnt really aware of the danger of using a minimal dose of fungicide, so i started out using a 1/2 strength Copper as a preventative. What i was doing was hitting the spores with just enough to sicken them but not kill them and they quickly built a resistance to it.
With the immunox i didnt want to kill the plants so i used the recommended dosage but it was too low for cannabis. If i had hit the plants with maybe 3X the recommended dose it would have killed the fungus, but again a minimal dose allows some to live and once they reproduce the substance isnt effective anymore.
The fact that these funguses can become resistant so quickly is discussed a bit in the litterature, but it isnt given the priority it should be given. It wasnt until i went to traditional gardening forums that i saw one warning after another of the serious danger of using low doses.
If the immunox/copper works, next season i will hit them july 15 with a dose thats yet to be determined. I suspect over the winter ill grow up a bagseed plant 2' tall and see how much immunox it can handle. Ill hit it with 3X - 5X the recommended dose for testing but in my mind, hitting them hard with very high doses will eliminate the disease but thats the only way. 1/2 measures are a recipe for disaster.
With the immunox i didnt want to kill the plants so i used the recommended dosage but it was too low for cannabis. If i had hit the plants with maybe 3X the recommended dose it would have killed the fungus, but again a minimal dose allows some to live and once they reproduce the substance isnt effective anymore.
The fact that these funguses can become resistant so quickly is discussed a bit in the litterature, but it isnt given the priority it should be given. It wasnt until i went to traditional gardening forums that i saw one warning after another of the serious danger of using low doses.
If the immunox/copper works, next season i will hit them july 15 with a dose thats yet to be determined. I suspect over the winter ill grow up a bagseed plant 2' tall and see how much immunox it can handle. Ill hit it with 3X - 5X the recommended dose for testing but in my mind, hitting them hard with very high doses will eliminate the disease but thats the only way. 1/2 measures are a recipe for disaster.
GAME
Member
Hey everyone. I have noticed some very good results with the Eagle 20. It seems that some of the plants responded much better than others, but all showed improvement. The Kodiak Gold x Aloha White Widows responded very nicely. And this was a great relief since these are my 1-2 lb yielders this year. As for the few that I say didn't respond as well, they still showed a great reduction in the number of dead leaves. The vigor has returned to every plant as well and the tomato plant that I tested it on sprung back like Ali off the ropes. Overall I am very pleased with the results. It appears that this one dosage will be enough to carry these plants through flowering since A) I won't use it in flowering and B) even if it comes back in the 11th hour, I really don't even care since the buds will be nearing finish at this point. But we'll see.
Now as for the safety concerns of Eagle 20, rest you weary heads. There need be little concern. Here is a summary of what I have figured out after much research into the matter from various sources
........... The MSDS for Eagle 20 says that skin contact could cause irritation, but that prolonged exposure is unlikely to cause absorption of anything harmful through the skin. It has low toxicity if swallowed. That being said, it contains small amounts of Napthalene which has been labeled by the International Agency for Research on Cancer as a "possible carcinogenic substance" . The U.S. EPA has placed naphthalene in Group D: NOT classifiable as a carcinogen (U.S. EPA, 1994a). The International Agency for Research on Cancer has NOT classified naphthalene for its carcinogenicity (IARC, 1987a).
At worst, in some cases LARGE AMOUNTS of VERY PROLONGED EXPOSURE of this single minor ingredient (OVER 2 STRAIGHT YEARS OF NEARLY NON-STOP VAPOR EXPOSURE) caused SOME rats to exhibit evidence of carcinogenic activity. And we're talking pure Napthalene....... not Eagle 20 itself. Once in the atmosphere, naphthalene rapidly photodegrades (half-life 3-8 hr). In the soil, which is our concern, it will last longer, but in minute quantities. And this depends greatly upon how much water pushes through the soil. It can be leached out without much problem from the sounds of it. In plant tissue, these trace amounts wouldn't be readily detectable at all. And AGAIN, we're talking direct application of this chemical which Eagle 20 contains trace amounts of...... which (FYI) cigarette smoke also contains.
Point being, you can get the stuff on your skin and in your eyes with mild irritation, you can drink the shit and not get ill..... just don't distill the napthalene out....... become a 3 ounce rat and huff it and bathe in it for two years.... or you could POSSIBLY get sick, lol. Point is, the stuff is perfectly acceptable to use in the vegetative plant state and probably in the first few weeks of flowering for that matter. Anything in it that could possibly be harmful is perfectly safe in trace amounts and perfectly safe since it rapidly breaks down as well. I can't say what works or not if I haven't tried it, but Eagle 20 is powerful stuff that seems to get the job done.
Now as for the safety concerns of Eagle 20, rest you weary heads. There need be little concern. Here is a summary of what I have figured out after much research into the matter from various sources
........... The MSDS for Eagle 20 says that skin contact could cause irritation, but that prolonged exposure is unlikely to cause absorption of anything harmful through the skin. It has low toxicity if swallowed. That being said, it contains small amounts of Napthalene which has been labeled by the International Agency for Research on Cancer as a "possible carcinogenic substance" . The U.S. EPA has placed naphthalene in Group D: NOT classifiable as a carcinogen (U.S. EPA, 1994a). The International Agency for Research on Cancer has NOT classified naphthalene for its carcinogenicity (IARC, 1987a).
At worst, in some cases LARGE AMOUNTS of VERY PROLONGED EXPOSURE of this single minor ingredient (OVER 2 STRAIGHT YEARS OF NEARLY NON-STOP VAPOR EXPOSURE) caused SOME rats to exhibit evidence of carcinogenic activity. And we're talking pure Napthalene....... not Eagle 20 itself. Once in the atmosphere, naphthalene rapidly photodegrades (half-life 3-8 hr). In the soil, which is our concern, it will last longer, but in minute quantities. And this depends greatly upon how much water pushes through the soil. It can be leached out without much problem from the sounds of it. In plant tissue, these trace amounts wouldn't be readily detectable at all. And AGAIN, we're talking direct application of this chemical which Eagle 20 contains trace amounts of...... which (FYI) cigarette smoke also contains.
Point being, you can get the stuff on your skin and in your eyes with mild irritation, you can drink the shit and not get ill..... just don't distill the napthalene out....... become a 3 ounce rat and huff it and bathe in it for two years.... or you could POSSIBLY get sick, lol. Point is, the stuff is perfectly acceptable to use in the vegetative plant state and probably in the first few weeks of flowering for that matter. Anything in it that could possibly be harmful is perfectly safe in trace amounts and perfectly safe since it rapidly breaks down as well. I can't say what works or not if I haven't tried it, but Eagle 20 is powerful stuff that seems to get the job done.
good news. Its 54 degrees and there's cold rain that feels like its 40 degrees. The disease cant tolerate that for long and will disappear. fortunately these remnants of TSLee and a cold front are expected to last until thursday when the 90's return.
I hopeful that these temps and conditions will wipe out the fungus. The potential is real.
I hopeful that these temps and conditions will wipe out the fungus. The potential is real.
TokerOftheSouth
Member
Doc i think it is dead around here, i havnt treated in about 3-4 wks now, yesterday saw no signs of disease, just a little stress and dead fan leaves from no water in 14 days
TSlee gave us 1/2" of rain so far, we need much more
I say we go full autoflower next yr and mayb just do a few regulars
We have an 1" now and needed every drop. I started watering last wed so im happy to see the rain.
I think the auto plan is reasonable. Cant we plant those plants out early may for a mid july finish Tots?
I think the auto plan is reasonable. Cant we plant those plants out early may for a mid july finish Tots?
TokerOftheSouth
Member
I was planning to water this wk also since its been 14-15 days since i did, but ill hold off and see how rain much we get..we need atleast 1" or ill have to water each with 3.5 gallons again..
Mid may will b perfect, however last week of may-1st of june mite b better since it warms up more and not so cool at nite atleast here anyways
Also wen started inside then taking outside at sex, females will only b outside 6-7 wks at max..
Tactical Farmer
Member
Bad news here guys, just noticed some botrytis hitting quick & hard yesterday at the swamp....
the environment is HORRIBLE right now with all the hurricanes, rain, flooding, dew, wind, bugs, bacterial spot disease, etc & my plants are way behind with alot of time to go..
testing a mix of Sodium Bicarb (Arm & Hammer baking soda) + Hydrogen Peroxide (standard store 3%) outside currently.
they got a heavy soaking spray of baking soda @ 1 tsp + 1/2 cup peroxide (per gal) to hopefully kill the rot.
Following it up with a Serenade (Bacillus subtilis) molasses + kelp 24hr bubbled tea which will hopefully coat the plant with specific mold ass kicking living beneficial bacterial microbs.
DAMN, here we go again.
the environment is HORRIBLE right now with all the hurricanes, rain, flooding, dew, wind, bugs, bacterial spot disease, etc & my plants are way behind with alot of time to go..
testing a mix of Sodium Bicarb (Arm & Hammer baking soda) + Hydrogen Peroxide (standard store 3%) outside currently.
they got a heavy soaking spray of baking soda @ 1 tsp + 1/2 cup peroxide (per gal) to hopefully kill the rot.
Following it up with a Serenade (Bacillus subtilis) molasses + kelp 24hr bubbled tea which will hopefully coat the plant with specific mold ass kicking living beneficial bacterial microbs.
DAMN, here we go again.
Ive recently had a conversation with my neighbor, a tobacco farmer about the fungus. I told him that it had ruined my tomato patch and wondered if he had noticed the disease. He scoffed : "Tomato's? Its destroyed my tomato and nearly destroyed my tobacco crop. I asked him what he was using to fight it and he told me that the University through the county extension agencies has produced a recipe of treatements that theyre recommending. He said it saved his crop but he sustained considerable yield damage before he brought it under control. He also said the treatments were expensive and labor intensive.
He went in his house and returned with a letter he had recieved from the county extension agent recommending a formula of Mancozeb,(Dithane) and Copper fungicide. I read the letter and wrote down the phone # to the agent and called him when i got home.
I told him about my tomato crop. (right). He was sympathetic and understood completely. He stated that the ferocity of the fungal disease had taken them by suprise and they were working with several companies to try and d evelop a treatment but in the mean tiime the mancozeb + copper fungicide was effective. I asked him if it was safe for a food crop and he said it didnt really build up in the tissue of the plant and that human risk was considered low. He said one of the problems with the recommended treatement was that it was only effective for 2 weeks max and then had to be reapplied and if the disease was bad, even more often than that.
The treatment was an application of Mancozeb and 3 days later an applicaiton of copper fungicide, with that regimine repeated every 10 days unless there is rain and then the copper needed to be reapplied. He stated that they had found no fungicide on its own that was able to cure or control the fungus but the combination of Mancozeb and copper had given very good control. His farmers are complaining however because the combination is expensive and labor intensive for a farmer with 200 acres of tobacco. The need a product they can spray on and be done, but the agent assured me that to their knowledge there was no such product available.
I can stand as a witness that no single product is effective. The immunox in a exagerated dose combined with the Liquid Copper did control the disease but by the time i arrived at that method, just like my niegbors tobacco crop, serious damage had already been done.
He went in his house and returned with a letter he had recieved from the county extension agent recommending a formula of Mancozeb,(Dithane) and Copper fungicide. I read the letter and wrote down the phone # to the agent and called him when i got home.
I told him about my tomato crop. (right). He was sympathetic and understood completely. He stated that the ferocity of the fungal disease had taken them by suprise and they were working with several companies to try and d evelop a treatment but in the mean tiime the mancozeb + copper fungicide was effective. I asked him if it was safe for a food crop and he said it didnt really build up in the tissue of the plant and that human risk was considered low. He said one of the problems with the recommended treatement was that it was only effective for 2 weeks max and then had to be reapplied and if the disease was bad, even more often than that.
The treatment was an application of Mancozeb and 3 days later an applicaiton of copper fungicide, with that regimine repeated every 10 days unless there is rain and then the copper needed to be reapplied. He stated that they had found no fungicide on its own that was able to cure or control the fungus but the combination of Mancozeb and copper had given very good control. His farmers are complaining however because the combination is expensive and labor intensive for a farmer with 200 acres of tobacco. The need a product they can spray on and be done, but the agent assured me that to their knowledge there was no such product available.
I can stand as a witness that no single product is effective. The immunox in a exagerated dose combined with the Liquid Copper did control the disease but by the time i arrived at that method, just like my niegbors tobacco crop, serious damage had already been done.
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