Looking for guerillas with leaf spot diease experience.

[tristynhawk]

Nice to hear everyone' getting a handle on things. Im not having any late flowering issues except on some random freebies that nirvana gave me everything else started really early for me i thought, cause im used to by August first they are flowering, but this year all most all my fem seeds started flowering in july, the kaya in the first week or two, and the Aurora also, the swiss cheese started last but still about the 3rd week of july. Has anyone ever grew this swiss cheese i have never grew any cheese strain before, so don't know what to expect for smells. But mine smells like a skunk.

 

[Tactical Farmer]

Lazlo and TF, i have wondered about the hydrogen peroxide, but with this shit if you dont kill it right away it willl get away from you and damage the plant. Ive hesitated over the HP because in the week you stare at the plant to see if its working, the shit can take over. Are you sure its killing this stuff?

its too early to say if the HP is working on "the spots".

got 3 locations & the only issue here was some mildew spots, which was stopped dead in its tracks with the strong hit of HP & BS.

I did notice some strange spots for the first time out yesterday "FUCK" but im trying to tell myself its a K dif.

Gonna have to kick it into ultra hardcore gorilla mode it seems, this SUCKS....

Keep the info going all, remember we still have that old enemy botryis...

 

[Claude Hopper]

I just started to get some blight in one of myfreebies, a mystery female indica. She was behind my other plants, with only preflowers showing, so I hit her with Daconil.

Hope that does the trick. I was lucky it was this plant, I couldnt have used a heavy hitting fungicide like Daconil on any of my other plants because they are all heavy into flower.

 

[D.S. Toker. MD]

Hey everyone

I thought i would give a preliminary report on the Immunox. 48 hrs after the application i have to say that the immunox is super effective. 24 hrs after i sprayed the plants, they were clearly much better and it was obvious the disease was dead and the plants revived. It is very good stuff

I guess i ll have to let you know in 40 days or around Oct 1 before ill know if its effected the taste/buzz/ saftey of the smoke. Ive read everything i could find and it appears the stuff is safe 30 days after the application. The chemical begins to degenerate in the plant within a few days and by 2 weeks out it isnt active in the plant tissue enough to continue resisting the disease so it appears the stuff degenerates quickly.

If it turns out to be safe after harvest, this would be the shit. One application and walk away: DONE. Thats in comparrison to the 10 spray trips i made and the 5 bottles(100 bucks) of LC that wasnt that effective on some plants.

The immunox litterally kicked fungus ass with one app, now its just a waiting game to see if its safe on the smoke. I wonder if it will effect the appearance of botrytis in the bud?

Claude Hopper, DACONIL!?? After reading about Daconil i nixed it from my list. Have you used it before? Is it safe?

 

[guest222]

Leaf spot is still kicking ass and i'm out of L.C. I just happened to have a bottle of immunox multipurpose for roses, lawns,shrubs,trees, and grapes. Is this basically what you guys are using? It calls for 2oz per gallon for grapes but only 1oz per gallon for flowers. It also says to only spray untill it runs off the leaves, does this mean top of leaves only? I know D.S puts emphasis on under the leaf coverage with L.C but not sure with this one. Also worried about photo toxicity, should this be sprayed in the morning or evening and not mid day?
D.S could you go over the amount and method you used to get such good results? And by the way thank you so much for saving my outdoor season, I wouldn't have even known where to start with out this thread.

 

[Claude Hopper]

DACONIL!?? After reading about Daconil i nixed it from my list. Have you used it before? Is it safe?[/B]

I wouldn't use it on a plant in bud. This was last week and she just had preflowers.

If I have anymore troubles I'll have to go with the Immunox.

Funny how this disease affects only certain genetics.

 

[jack Haze]

I'm a convert fellas...In fact, The Spectracide Corp. will likely be sent a Christmas card from yours truly.

I hit this plant about 3-4 weeks ago. At that point it looked so pitiful that I almost chopped it. As close to death as I ever want to see and today it looks like this.

 

[GAME]

And she's looking mighty fine now I'd say ^^^^^^

I ran with liquid copper on one patch and about every one seemed improved. The other area I washed a few down with a light dose of eagle 20 and I'm seeing positive results. I also had this tomato plant potted that was hit horrible by blight and leaf spot. I sprayed it down with Eagle 20 and it's looking much improved after a few days.

 

[TokerOftheSouth]

Hey everyone

I thought i would give a preliminary report on the Immunox. 48 hrs after the application i have to say that the immunox is super effective. 24 hrs after i sprayed the plants, they were clearly much better and it was obvious the disease was dead and the plants revived. It is very good stuff

I guess i ll have to let you know in 40 days or around Oct 1 before ill know if its effected the taste/buzz/ saftey of the smoke. Ive read everything i could find and it appears the stuff is safe 30 days after the application. The chemical begins to degenerate in the plant within a few days and by 2 weeks out it isnt active in the plant tissue enough to continue resisting the disease so it appears the stuff degenerates quickly.

If it turns out to be safe after harvest, this would be the shit. One application and walk away: DONE. Thats in comparrison to the 10 spray trips i made and the 5 bottles(100 bucks) of LC that wasnt that effective on some plants.

The immunox litterally kicked fungus ass with one app, now its just a waiting game to see if its safe on the smoke. I wonder if it will effect the appearance of botrytis in the bud?

Claude Hopper, DACONIL!?? After reading about Daconil i nixed it from my list. Have you used it before? Is it safe?

Super nice find DS, im getting ready to go spray more greencure soon..It seems to b working, while out today i did see 1-2 leaves on sum fem's with few spots

If Immunox is safe after u harvest, you are right it will b the forsure way to go..I like your self have spent around $100 on LC and GC, not counting many hrs and trips spraying all plants several times, and still got months to go on sum

How much longer till the disease is no longer a threat? ive got sum ak's 5-6 wks into flower , they seem fine, so im not gunna spray them anymore

 

[BasementBreeder]

To everyone who has spent a fortune on LC,

Did you buy the premixed bottle or the concentrate? I spent $25 on a 470mL bottle. At 30mL(2 Tbs)/gallon, this is over 15 gallons of spray. I have 10 medium to large plants that I've been taking care(each sprayed 4x so far) of and have only used about half of my bottle.

 

[D.S. Toker. MD]

hey everybody

guest222, thats the stuff- immunox multi purpose. It has the same chemical as Eagle 20 but in a greatly reduced dose. Eagle 20 is like 20% and immunox is 1.5%. Immunox is recommended for vegetables and Eagle 20 isnt. It clearly kills the fungus dead and the plants look brand new within days. Jack Haze's results are telling. I used 1.25 ounces per gallon of Immunox- the recommendation for vegetables.

Hey Jack. Im only a few days in but like you, im seeing major improvement. I wish i had applied the stuff a few weeks back and i would be better off today, but at least its dead now before it damaged my yield too much

Tots, im hoping we'll have some cooler weather soon. This disease doenst like or do well in the 50's so im hoping we'll have a couple of cool nights that kills the shit.

BasementBreeder, most of us are using Bonide Liquid Copper Concentrate - 16oz bottle. Directions call for 2 ounces per gallon of water. In spraying my plants, ive averaged 1 gallon of mix per 2 plants, so to treat 12 big plants ive needed nearly a whole bottle. At least 3 or 4 times i put it on and then we had a thunderstorm within a couple of days so it had to be reapplied, but this time of year, thunderstorms are in the forcast for every single day so its hard to tell when to apply it.

Thats why I'm testing the immunox - because the LC seems costly and worse, impracticle for treating any number of large plants. One other thing: i started the season with a reduced amount of LC in hopes of prevention. MAJOR MISTAKE!!! After more reading, i found that every recommendation is to use the maximum dose every time because reduced strengths might allow a few spores to survive and when they reproduce, the offspring are resistant to the Copper treatments. Thats what happened to me. By the time the disease was full blown, even a 2.5 ounce treatment was barely effective.

 

[darkstar12]

There is alot of good information in this thread coming about this disease. There are some things I have read here that I have tried finding again but have not been able to.

Could we please have a sticky made that contains a summary of treatments that have been proven to work, those treatments have had minimal or no effect, and those treatments not recomended due to safety concerns? Also I think D.S. Toker posted some information with regards to the environment and time periods this disease is most active (i.e. temps, humidity levels, more active in august possibly, etc)...Maybe a sticky can be made up that contains all this information and than have it be locked but maintained somehow?

 

[D.S. Toker. MD]

youre right darkstar. when this work in progress reaches soom final conclusions on the different approaches that were effective/ineffective, there needs to be some summary of steps and specifications.

And there are many things i learned this season that we havent even talked about. For example, have you ever tried to carry a sprayer filled with stuff through the bush?? A plastic 12$ sprayer is as useless as tits on a boar hog. 3X this season ive hiked out to the plants carrying an armload of shit to find my sprayer no longer worked! !^#%&Q%!!%#(~@!!

 

[guest222]

Thanks for the reply Doc, I know what you mean with the cheap sprayers. It seemed for the longest that the good ones were overpriced at lowes. I have the same luck with the 12$ ones too, yet I was on my way out the door again with one not wanting to pay 40$ for a name brand one.
Thats when I saw it....... there was a display of sprayers by the door and they were only 16$, They were Round-Up brand sprayers and had a 5 year warranty, I figured I would try It rather than yet another cheapo. Let me tell you what a deal that was. I have been using it nearly every day for 3 months now, and it is hands above the 12$ one. It has real rubber seals and gaskets on everything including the main lid. If I leave pressure in it over night there is zero loss or leaking, and is still up to pressure the next morning. What I liked most was the differen't spray pattern tips that came with it, the red one is the best for spraying big plants. I would have gladly given more $ knowing that it is such a solid sprayer, did I mention it has a FIVE YEAR WARRANTY!!!!
Anways looking on to next year it would probably be worth the investment to get a nice back pack sprayer that holds 4 or 5 gallons. SOLO used to be at the top, but I have heard bad things about them recently and I think they are near 80$. also just for reference the hand hold sprayers max out at about 30 psi, and the commercial pack sprayers get up to 100 psi with the same number of pumps but again they are probably near 100$ too

 

[Claude Hopper]

Those Roundup brand sprayers work well for me. I like to over pump them and use the finest mist I can.

 

[TokerOftheSouth]

Doc, it was 60 here this am at daylight, it was nice while out watering

I use a $10 plastic 1.5 gallon sprayer(groundwork i think..i then put it in a backback) I leave in woods and use creekwater

However next yr i want a backback sprayer with handpump, to pump in spray at same time

I was gunna spray more GC again, but think ill hold off, unless i see an outbreak

Goodluck to u guys

LC and GC has sure worked for me with 100 deg days and hum. at 90% for 30 days strait

 

[D.S. Toker. MD]

Yep the Lowes Roundup sprayer. Ive had 3 different sprayers this season and it was the worst for one reason. It has a tiny little suck up tube that gets stopped up if any debree gets in the tank. I usually have to carry a tank full and a gallon jug and refill the sprayer in the field which just about garauntees their are bits of stick and leaves on the lip of the sprayer. Also, i was tightening to pump when the lip cracked on the pump unit and allowed air to escape. 2 weeks into my Roundup experience sent me back to Lowes for another look.

But the big drawback for all of the cheapo's for me was the plastic wand. Twice i got to the patch to find it broken. I wound up buying a little better model and soldering and making my own wand from copper tubing and fittings. A metal wand is key if you grow in the jungle because the plastic ones just werent designed for bush work.

Im looking on the internet for whats available so i can order over the winter.. The backpack sounds good.

 

[StrapAssassin42]

I just went out to spray my last two plants with immunox...havent been back to check on the ones that i did last week yet.
I have a problem...someone found those two...cant really explain it...someone topped every branch on both plants! A cop wouldn't do that would they!!!??? The only thing i can think is a dumbass found them and tried to smoke the leaves! They weren't even flowering yet!!
Needless to say im abandoning those two, i looked everywhere for a trail camera to make sure i wasn't being watched, nothing. Luckily they were my smallest and sickest plants.
What do you guys think happened? Cops or a dumbass? I imagine if it was cops i would be busted at this point but idk...makes me paranoid.

 

[hamstring]

Hello all its a shame the sticky is alive and well and i think will get lots of attention in many years to come. First off i want to personally thank DS for keeping this thread up to date and full of good info and thanks to all who have added all the personal experience.

I finally feel like i have something to add here. I have had a reasonably dry year and therefore leaf spot/blight hasn’t been a big part of my season for the first time in 3 seasons. While checking my plants recently I noticed some small signs of our old nemesis. Sure enough I did have it but only slightly and with September rolling around we all have something to be happy about because it slows way down as it gets cooler. I found two things very interesting (keep in mind this isn’t that noticeable in a bad LS year) the first was the fact that simple differences in soil made huge differences in the problem. In one of my plots I have sandy as well as river bottom, black gold, soil and the sandy soil plants had no signs at all of leaf spot even under trees where it usally hits my plants the worst.

The second thing, that again itsnt visible in full-blown LS, is that this shit attacks the weak. The large fan leaves that turn yellow naturally in the fall all had LS on them even though no or minimal signs of it anywhere else on the plant. Small differences in plant vitality and soil conditions make a big difference although hard to notice in a bad year. Hang in their guys September is around the corner good luck to all.

 

[tristynhawk]

i know thi is off topic but i recently developed a new problem. i have the LS under control but the past two weeks have been really wet and i went out today to check for LS and found bud rot. Does any of you guerrilla's have a remedy to help with this new enemy. I thought the LC would help with it but after reading the label i see it won't. I have researched and found a few tricks like milk and water and i don't know about this and i heard baking soda and water. I know this is off topic but you guy's here seem real knowledgeable of guerrilla dilemma's and i figured if i could get good advice it would be here.
Like i said before sorry for being off topic if it's a problem please delete this post.