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Looking for guerillas with leaf spot diease experience.

D.S. Toker. MD

Active member
Veteran
Hey growbuddies!

Thats it trinstynhawk. Mix LC at 2.5 ozs per gallon and blast her every other day for 2 weeks. CUREd.

That Sensi Star looks good Strap. YOur going to enjoy smoking her. I have 4 similar to her but i have 2 that are over 8'. The tops on them are hell to spray. I have to stand back and squirt the shit into the air and let it sort of rain on them.


darkstar, i use the Lc up until about mid August - i like to have 3o days between my last application and my harvest, but last year, i sprayed 3 plants on the 25th of Aug. and harvested on the 18th of sept and i didnt feel any negative effects or taste.

IN my mind, the weather determines when you can stop using LC or other treatments. Ive read alot about this blight and its tropical in nature. It thrives from about 84 F upwards. It loves heat and humidity. At 95 with 70% realtive humidity, the shit is on everything in sight and rampant. But it cant reproduce at 70 degrees farenhiet and at 60, it starts dying. It needs warm, humid weather to spread. The last few years, even though we had drought, every friggin day was 95-100 w/ 70% humidity until mid to late sept so i had to spray longer than i like, but thank god this year, its better. In fact, we've just had an unusual cold spell in which we've had 3 night in a row at 55-58 degrees with day time temps in the upper 70's with 30% humidity. Combined wth the LC treatments, that may lead to its demise here for the year. I'll let you know.

Dont be afraid to blast the crap out of them. They can take it.!

Im declaring victory guys. 7 of my plants or about 1/2 of them are disease free now. After my last post where i was feeling overwhelmed, i said fuck it, and blasted them with LC, at 2.5 ozs per gallon of water, every 3rd day or so and by the 4th spray, the shit was gone. No more yellowing or defoliating at all. I have another 6 that still have a yellow leaf or 2 when i show up so i know the disease is still present on those plants and would return if i discontiued the LC, but im hitting them hard and now we've had this unusually cool weather, i should be done.

We're also having normal temps this year and rainfall. I usually have to carry water from late july to harvest, but this year ive only had to carry fert water. Its easy street. My grow is doing the best its done in years, knock on wood. If i can avoid the law and rippers ill be waist deep in whhooop ass in about 45 days!!
 
Great to hear Doc!!!! I fucked up and sprayed greencure the last week of July and didn't get back to them for 10 days and its bad! I ran outa copper and am paying the price.
I started with 22 and am now down to 12 and only 6 are in good shape but still with the disease.
I learned some valuabe lessons though. My grow next year has to be in an area where i feel safe to be there more frequently. If im out there too often farmers will see my vehicle and get curious... the odds of it being investigated further are slim to none but i refuse to take extra risk!
Im going to be spraying way more often inside too... only been doing about every 10 days and im still dealing with it. Im going to up the dose to 2.5 per gallon and gona hit em every 3 days. Thanks again for your insights doc....
Fall is my favorite time of the year and its almost here!!! Fill jars with the harvest and fill the freezer with my bow! hell yes!!!
 

GAME

Member
A few people were looking for a systemic fungicide that doesn't need constant reapplication after rains. Two that I have found after some research are Phyton 27 and Eagle 20. Both are spendier than Liquid Copper and can be found online easily enough. Not sure about the Eagle 20, but the Phyton 27 is suppose to be safe enough and doesn't leave harmful residue.
 
On another note has anyone noticed any strains that are really resistant. Because i grew some kaya gold this year from nirvana and they are unaffected. Very beautiful plants and seem like they will finish by end of September. I read where early pearl by sensi seeds is very disease resistant. I would like to grow plants that will help me in this battle against the disease. I am still waiting to see how good the smoke is on the kaya but i think i will grow this strain again for years they smell fantastic very vigorous plants and will all average 8 zip's plus some maybe closer to a LB.
 

D.S. Toker. MD

Active member
Veteran
tristynhawk, i thought that my sensi stars had some resistance last year, but conditions for the disease were optimum this year and every strain im growing and every strain my 3 buddies are growing have the disease. I dont think their is such a strain.

However, ive been interested in the Kaya gold.

Game, im on the hunt for a short acting systemic and ive looked at the Eagle 20 and Immunox - the same stuff, but i cant find any info on tissue testing. While it prevents disease for 2 weeks or so, each dose increases the amount of chemical in the plant and i havent found any data showing testing and detection of the chemical 4 weeks after application. I want to spray on July 15 and aug 1, but not have any of the chemcal residue in the plant on Sept. 15.

Im going to research the phyton 27
 
here is a pic of the aurora that is really bad and here's a kaya that is 20 feet away unaffected
 

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On another note has anyone noticed any strains that are really resistant.

The past three years everything Ive grown was affected one way or another.

This year I decided to try some BOG genetics, Sour Life Saver amd Bog Bubble. This plant is in the same location as some PPP, Bogbubble, Chemdog,and some Kush.

Everything except Sour Life Saver has been affected to one extent or another. All are in the same general area, and all have been getting sprayed once a week with LC for the past month, but the SLS is the only one that has been affected very little, if any.

These are actually clones from some F2's that I made myself, but they seem pretty identical to the parental pheno's.

Next year I am going to devote half my outdoor patch to these.
 

GAME

Member
D.S. Well, I will be out tomorrow applying some LC and I have some Eagle 20 on the way. I will likely only apply the Eagle 20 one time.......... since like you, I'm not too sure about any residuals come harvest time. But I'm gonna run it and see what happens.


Hey Tristy, you should really patronage this site a little more bro. This is where all the old school heads are at !
 

jack Haze

Member
Hey all.

I've stayed out of this discussion (but reading it vigorously.) I'm battling it as well and treated my plants with Spectracide Immunox Multi-Purpose Fungicide which contains Myclobutanil, also the active ingredient in Eagle20 the way I understand it.

The Immunox is kicking it's ass in under 2 weeks. I had it on every plant in one plot. I hit them all with about 1.5 ounces per gallon, doused the hell out of every plant. Today, half the plants look almost as if they had never been infected. I know people are against Myclobutanil but I've witnessed very impressive results with it.
 
rained all day today on and off so im out to blast them again tomorrow, trying to salvage what i can of the season. I have dealt with ripper's already power company spraying weed killer on ten beautiful plants. And now this disease is threatening to ruin the year. I had pushing 100 females in may and im down to around 38 and some are runt's and other's are stressed out by this disease.

I am really grateful to all of you for sharing experiences because until a friend told me about this thread i didn't know what to do, i was in my third year of watching my girl's die through july and august and didn't know what was up.

happy growing guy's....tristynhawk
 

D.S. Toker. MD

Active member
Veteran
Hey all.

I'm battling it as well and treated my plants with Spectracide Immunox Multi-Purpose Fungicide which contains Myclobutanil, also the active ingredient in Eagle20 the way I understand it.

The Immunox is kicking it's ass in under 2 weeks. I know people are against Myclobutanil but I've witnessed very impressive results with it.

Im not against it Jack, but i am unsure about its safety. Your right, Immunox and Eagle 20 have the same active ingredient but i havent been able to find any data regaurding its presence in the plant 30 days after the last application. I know it controls the fungus for 2 weeks or more, but does it linger in the plant material.

Im happy to hear that its effective. Keep us posted on its effects.



EDIT

Here are some others i hope you guys will research and give an opinion on. These are fungicides used on Burley tobacco which is widely grown here where i live. I chose to look at these fungicides because burley is what cigarretts are made from and is smoked, just like our plant is: Look at these and give me your thoughts?


1. Ridomil Gold/ http://www.plantmanagementnetwork.org/pub/php/news/2006/ridomil/

2. http://www.lawnrite.com/exel_fungicide.html

3,http://www.enviroselects.com/oxidate-broad-spectrum-bactericide-fungicide-1.html

4.http://www.kendon.com.au/Catalogue/horticultural/mancozeb.htm
 
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"Can I treat food crops like vegetable plugs, herbs or fruit trees?

Phyton-27® is labeled in the U.S. for use on non-bearing fruit trees and vines, specifically those that will not bear fruit for at least one year. It is not labeled for any other food-crop uses, such as herbs or vegetables. "

Found this on a FAQ page for Phyton 27...definitely not using it! Twas a nice thought though.
 
I know of one organic grower that used Eagle 20 to get rid of powdery mildew on his indoor grow... I know Eagle 20 is not organic but he was fed up and needed a fix... i will talk to him and get back to you guys.
 

jack Haze

Member
Hey DS,

I'm just going by the fact the Immunox is primarily used for harvested table grapes but also a variety of other fruits and vegetables. The label and everything I've read online about it says to apply no more than 4 times per year and is safe after 30 days. I don't have any actual test data.

I've only hit mine once about 2 weeks ago. I had planned to hit them again yesterday but after seeing the results (and being as conservative as possible.) I decided to hold off. I was at the point I was in fear of losing most plants so acted drastically. Ironically, I hit my Tomatoes with it and it didn't have half the results as my ''other plants.''

Hope everyone beats it this year!
 

GAME

Member
Hey D.S. , hahaha, yeah, I don't know if I would put much faith in what the tobacco boys spray their crop with. Seems like there's plenty of things they don't give a rats ass about as far as what's in the finished product !
 

jack Haze

Member
It should be said that Immunox Multi-Purpose rather than Immunox Plus should be used. The Plus isn't approved for fruit or vegetables. The Multi-Purpose is and from everything I've read, seems safe if used 30-45 days prior to harvest.

As far as Myclobutanil...

Immunox has 1.55%. Eagle20 is 19.7%. That could be good or bad depending on how you look at it. If 1.55% worked as I think it has, I see no need for something of 19.7%. If the Immunox proves not to work like I think it does....Certainly the Eagle would be worth looking into.

I meant to write something else but it doesn't come to me now. Hopefully one or the other will work and be safe. Enough indoor guys use Eagle20, so...?
 
Doc nice to hear u have things under control.. i also do myself, havnt lost a single plant as of yet.

that Star pic I posted was from 2 weeks ago, she is 9' now and also very tuff to spray the top

3/4 of everything is into full flower, the thai, haze crosses are about to start soon i hope

Using nothing but greencure atm, luckily humidity is low after 4" of rain over the weekend

Are all ur SS flowering?
 

D.S. Toker. MD

Active member
Veteran
Hey Tots, Just barely - the SS plants. I had several that didnt start showing flowers until the 2nd week of Aug which is unusual but i think this is going to be a slow year here. The last 2 years, plants started early and finished early but all of mine are slower this year. Im not sure what impacts flowering. I do know that high heat causes early flowering in many crops, but this year im a week or 2 behind.

Game, i hear you buddy. Tobacco farmers are worried about 2 things, weight and price. Theyll squirt anything on it to enhance yeild.

Jack, thats very good info. I wasnt aware of the difference in strengths from the immunox and Eagle. Based on your testimony, i headed out yesterday and bought a bottle and hit 2 plants that i have that are out in the boonies and havent reiceived regular doses and are still sick. Ill keep you posted - you keep us updated as well.

let me give you a piece of advice that ive just recently learned. DONT BE CONSERVATIvE. While researching, ive read several different times that barely using enough product to be effective is dangerous because it can allow some of the organisms to survive and then they are resistant to the treatments. I found this to be true with the Lcopper when i misread the label and used minimul amounts but im convinced that on a couple of plants, that allowed the fungus to develop some immunity so that when i hit them with a big dose, it wasnt as effective as it would have been if i had started out with a heavy dose.

From this day forward, im using the maximum dose of whatever i squirt because i think its true that mimimal doses allow the fungus to develop resistance and then it comes roaring back.
 
Great info Jack! I hope your on to something with that Immunox. I hope i can get it locally.

Doc, I wouldn't be surprised if the resistance you are talking about is exactly what im dealing with indoors and out...
I started using copper dust (mixed as a spray) at first and noticed i wasn't getting good coverage...the shit left a spotty white residue.
I'm probly going to have to go to a systemic indoor just to rid myself of this problem.
Soooo....Eagle 20 is a generally accepted practice indoor? I like the lower dose in immunox.... if Eagle is safe then Immunox multi-purpose has to be right?
It'd be nice to hit my girls one time with the Immunox outdoor and be done spraying for the year!
 

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