Looking for guerillas with leaf spot diease experience.

[D.S. Toker. MD]

HEADS UP!!!!


Hey bongbong and others. Ive been making a terrible mistake and its the very reason that some of my plants have the disease. I adjusted immediately - thank goodness i discovered my mistake in time.

MISTAKE: The bottle says 2 FLUID OUNCES PER GALLON! 4 of my plants have it and i was spraying them every 2 days and couldnt understand why it wasnt being controlled. Finally i said fuck it - how strong can i make the mixture. When i read 2 fluid ounces, i measured that out and its 4 Tablespoons! 2 times the dosage ive been using.

I also read the directions again for active blight and powdery mildew and it says 2fluid ounces every 2 days until controlled. I mixed some up and started yesterday. Ill be hitting them every other day this week hard and heavy. I have to get it under control
ASAp..

 

[bongbong]

Dude big props for the heads up and direction reading! I will be hitting mine with the same tonight some are just not turning back green for me and its the same strains.

 

[StrapAssassin42]

I've been doing a little experimenting with my girls as far as nutes and soil go being this is my first go around outside.
I've found that the plants that have gotten enough nutes and had the right conditions can almost "outgrow" the blight.
Of course you still need to spray but if your plants are growing fast enough they shouldn't be hit nearly as hard as plants that are lagging in new growth.
Feel free to correct me...just an observation. (Now that i think about it, its kinda common sense....lol)

 

[D.S. Toker. MD]

I wish that is what was happening with my grow Strap. Ive found that any plant that contracts the disease QUITS growing fast and begins to defoliate unless treated aggressively with Lc. Secondly, the fast growth for those plants that arent infected creates difficulties of its own because the new growth, which is considerable during this period, isnt protected - it wasnt there when the plant is treated.

In fact, Im learning by the day. I spent from 3;00 am until 7;00 am this morning spraying. It took 4 hours and 9 fluid ounces of LC to spray 9 plants. Im now on my 4th bottle of LC at 20 bucks per bottle. Its my estimation that i willl need a minimum of 6 more bottles to finish the season. If we were to have a thunderstorm this afternoon, i would have to go back tommorow, spend 4 more hours and 9 more ounces of LC. Over the past 2 weeks, its rained every other day. This effort has brought me to several conclusions.

Using the Liquid Copper is inpracticle. I started the season with 16 plants, but my spraying efforts are so laborious that ive abandoned 4 of the plants and am now down to 12 large plants that range from 7' to 10'. It takes 30 minutes and 1/2 gallon of spray per plant. Rain washes the Lc off, so i may have to provide that treatment 3x within one week. The total effort will require 6 or more bottles of LC at 20$ per bottle to treat these 12 plants properly and keep them treated.

12 large plants are the limit in my view for a single grower, and thats working my ass off.

Today, im embarking on a new and necessary path. SYSTEMICS Its impractical to try and defeat the disease with LC unless you have less than 12 plants and it doesnt rain periodically. If you have a few plants and not much rain, the LC is doable, but where i have such big plants and it can rain every other day, its just too much work and too much money to try and use it.

Im over in the infirmary section looking for a short acting systemic. Its truly the only reasonable approach. If i can find a short acting systemic - something that doesnt last more than 30 days and can treat the plants by the first week of Aug, then thats the new plan.

If anyone knows of a short acting systemic, please let me know. A poster recommended several somewhere here and thats where i will start, but by tommorow morning, i need to place my order or go buy the shit if its available locally.

 

[StrapAssassin42]

Thats alot of work! I started with 22 and now im left with 12. I havent been spraying nearly as often as you and i've gotten nearly the same rain situation.
Being you are around tobacco fields im guessing you dont have anywhere near the winter I have. Im wondering if that keeps it from being so virilent around here.
Dont get me wrong... the shit is on everything but you seem to be getting worked over by the shit.
Your theory on the unprotected new growth seems sound but my girls seem to mostly be affected towards the bottom and close to the main stem. None of my plants have it anywhere near the top. I guess it is possible we are dealing with similar but different fungi.
I wish you luck on finding a systemic that works for your/our needs. I will research as well. Thanks again doc for being the trailblazer on this thing!

 

[bongbong]

D.S. keep on fightin brother. My buddy just brought me the "hi-yield" brand copper fungicide. Its blue but super milky and 23% copper. 11 bucks a bottle and most feed and seed stores carry that brand. I couldn't find any more LC in my hokey pokey area. This stuff looks like it will stick to everything I will find out this evening.

 

[TokerOftheSouth]

I spent 10 mins max spraying LC on this S Star this am, pic is wk old so she was really 6" taller today

Doc that is ALOT if LC and time..at ten mins a fem it still takes me 4 hrs to spray em all

I havnt seen but a spot or 2 so ive stepped up to 2 fl oz. per gallon also

here are auto's this yr that were not treated and caught it

 

[jay-toker]

.

 

[darkstar12]

Thought I was gonna lose about half my crop this year to blight, but thanks to this thread, and liberal application of LC once a week for the past month I think I have it under control (knock on wood).

So, now that flowering starting, how do we go about keeping this under control once buds start forming, I am assuming we can not use LC during flowering, or can we?

 

[Tactical Farmer]

Hey Copperheads

I got a thread going right before this thread was found = https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=217673

glad to see some good results from LC, thanks everyone for the time doing write ups.

Been fighting bud rot every gorilla season & some minor pm but have yet to see this spot problem (this year included / knock on wood)..

Over the years I keep adding products that seem to help but still end up with some rot.

Stepped up prevention alot this year cycling neem, greencure, monterey garden (spinosad), organocide, serinade, protek silica & powdered lime w/ DE dusted around base.

Just been rotating 1 of those items sprayed 1 time weekly from planting & im just getting through stretch phase & not a sign of this spot issue.

Just added liquid copper to the list which I plan to use for the next few weeks till buds form then switch to a safer spray of home-brewed Seranade tea for a few weeks.

Seranade is ORMI & contains Bacillus subtilis which is basically a good bacterium that specialises in kicking bad stuffs ass. "allegedly"

Im going to make a bubbled molasses kelp tea with the seranade bacterium to get it hyper active & increase its herd population.

Then a few hits of greencure & or lacto bacillus culture to finish in the last few weeks.

My only issue is how the greencure will jive with the active culture spray, maybe ill do the lacto sprays then finish with the alkaline greencure sprays.

Good luck all

 

[StrapAssassin42]

I like your plan....using something different everytime to prevent resistance.
However, using any other fungicide after using your Serenade tea will kill all the good bacteria along with the fungus...
LC and and Greencure do not discriminate... they kill/ attempt to kill fungus and even your good bacteria.
Doc would have better input about using LC during flowering but if i remember correctly he has stated that he has used LC into the first part of September without negative affects on his buds.
Switching between sprays is good but this shit has hammered me and others pretty hard and we've come to the collective conclusion that LC is the only way to slow this shit down once you have it.
Hoping to hear from the Doc soon about short acting systemics. Havent had time to research myself.

 

[Tactical Farmer]

Oxidate is 30% H2O2 if you follow the website.

Just tested a homemade mix of Hydrogen Peroxide (HP) 3% H2O2 with Baking Soda (BS).

The mix seemed on the strong side @ 1.5 cup HP & 3 tsp BS for 3 gal total spray.

Big "still veggin' (wtf?)" plants with PM in a swamp were sprayed HEAVILY about 3 days ago & now look better than they have all year with NO PM.

Hit the fresh sterilized plants with a copper sulfate spray for a layer of protection.

these items are "the natural big guns" for molds & such from what info ive gathered on other "organic" gardening sites.

The HP oxidizes & the BS alkalizes Brush your teeth with it & you will see. lol

Im just THRILLED with the results of the homemade HP+BS spray so far.

I did use a homemade sticker+spreader of molasses+yucca fpe also.

Ive been searching for the "holey grail" homemade "death to all nasties" gorilla spray for some time.

Its going to a long 2 months, Lets hope things work out.

 

[tristynhawk]

Does this look like leaf disease.

 

[tristynhawk]

Im sorry i shoulda started out with saying thanks for this thread. Two years i first noticed my plants doing what the plant in the picture looks like it would start from the bottom and work it's way up the plant killing some and stunting some. I couldn't figure out what was wrong and luckily as it happened again this year i found this thread. So i bought the liquid copper fungicidal and treated my worse plants and as of yet i have a few that barely show signs so will this liquid copper keep these plants healthy.

 

[StrapAssassin42]

Sorry to say...welcome to the club!....It really sucks but at least now you know what you're dealing with.
Spray every plant you can heavily.....the one you show the pic of should take approximately 15 minutes to cover...make sure you get the underside of the leaves too.
Spray the ones that dont have it too...it'll keep em from getting it...hopefully. Don't spray the last 3 weeks up to harvest.
You could try tactical farmers homemade mix too but i would recommend hitting them with the LC hard first. I would also recommend reading every post by D.S. Toker MD in this thread...very helpful info!
Tactical Farmer,
How are your girls doing with your homemade spray? How late in their life do you planning on spraying?

 

[Tactical Farmer]

Strap - The homemade H2O2 + baking soda spray is working GREAT...

They really perked up after just that one spray & not a single problem "spot" of anything to be found.

Its very strange this year as mine are VERY slow getting into flower, they have been stretching for a solid month or more..

Im going to keep on rotating LC with the HP+BS till buds start filling in then switch to "living" protection.

Mostly serinade bacterium tea & maybe Lacto B milk culture to finish things up.

If the living protection doesn't work then back to the HP+BS it will be.

 

[Tactical Farmer]

BIG TIP:

Get a battery powdered sprayer...

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_9414_9414

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200311940_200311940

You will also need a med sized 12V battery (motorcycle works), some tubing, tubing clamps, reservoir (bucket or clean fuel can works), 12V charger, some electrical wire & connectors.

A small solar panel will charge up your battery nicely using the sun.

http://www.harborfreight.com/15-watt-12-volt-solar-panel-96418.html
___________________________________________________________________________

It might seem like alot but once you use it you will thank me..

You can spray at a fine mist about 5 gal in 5 min..

 

[darkstar12]

So far for me things are looking good. I have 11 plants total after culling the males. Two plants that are simply beautiful to behold and have not been affected at all (these are from clone, am thinking they might have some kind of resistance), one that has been severely affected despite copius treatments of LC, but should still yield a couple of z's, and the others are 7-9 foot monsters that have it here and there, but are holding up well.

I just checked my spot last night, and despite the last treatment of LC being almost two weeks ago, and there being some heavy rains between now and than, I can still see traces of LC on the leaves. Will these be safe to make hash out of?

Also, some of my plants are fast flowering and look like they have about 4-5 weeks to go before they can be harvested, I am guessing I should stop the LC and start using serenade or greencure? Which of these products is better for blight, and do they both work against mold?

 

[StrapAssassin42]

Greencure doesn't seem to do much...LC definitely better. The LC left on your leaves will kill the bacteria in the serenade. Not saying it wont work just not sure.

I've been making hash with leaves from my indoor girls that were affected. I dont use the large fan leaves because of the fungus but the small ones close to buds are fine.... havent noticed a difference in the quality of my hash and these are indoor so they didn't get washed by rain at all. I spray LC up to 3 weeks before harvest.

 

[darkstar12]

Greencure doesn't seem to do much...LC definitely better. The LC left on your leaves will kill the bacteria in the serenade. Not saying it wont work just not sure.

I've been making hash with leaves from my indoor girls that were affected. I dont use the large fan leaves because of the fungus but the small ones close to buds are fine.... havent noticed a difference in the quality of my hash and these are indoor so they didn't get washed by rain at all. I spray LC up to 3 weeks before harvest.

Ok, so it seems like LC is safe to use through out most of the flowering cycle, interesting. Just re-read the literature on the bottle and it seems like it is safe to use even on fruits and veggies 7-10 days before they are picked.