Local materials

[Hookahhead]

Ferments are definitely a bit of “magic” in the sense that you’re never really sure what’s in there or what the benefit might be. It’s easy for a lot of us to think in terms of NPK + micros. However many of us overlook the benefits of all the organic acids and other by products that are formed during the process.

There is definitely a succession that occurs during a ferment. The yeast quickly eat up all the sugar and some other nutrients, then die. The cells lyse, spilling the contents back into the brew for a different organism to soak up. I honestly doubt there is very little ionic nutrients left by the end of a 60-90 day ferment. By this point they’ve all been uptaken and converted to biomass or more complex molecules.

 

[HorseBadoritiz]

I wonder if it's possible to plant Japanese knotweed on my property to ferment, the goal would be to make a product similar to Regalia.

I would be glad to send you some japanese stilt grass, and kudzu so you could go for the trifecta of foreign invasives!


I am going to try to ferment some kudzu tips this Spring to use for a possible pgr... might as well try to find some helpful use for it, lol!

 

[Rico Swazi]

ferments are great for extracting elements at the expense of secondary metabolites
which to my understanding , those metabolites are what create an effective PGR and SAR

Tim outlines the extraction process for knotweed here-
https://logicalgardener.org/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=120

perhaps people could do both ferment and short infusion of their plant material (dried powdered soaked 1 hr) and see which works best for the intended application... ? anyone?

FWIW, I have some redshank, ladys thumb ( Persicaria maculosa (syn. Polygonum persicaria ) ) that I have been playing with to see if it has the same properties as its giant cousin. So far so good

 

[Chunkypigs]

....
Tim outlines the extraction process for knotweed here-
https://logicalgardener.org/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=120

perhaps people could do both ferment and short infusion of their plant material (dried powdered soaked 1 hr) and see which works best for the intended application... ? anyone?....

Whoa!!! Super stoked to see this link.

I have a small patch of knotweed and that shits dry now. it came in with fill dirt and I've never been able to find out how to extract it until now.

next year I'll try a ferment too. I have a patch of Giant Hogweed that I keep mowed but maybe I'll let a couple grow this year and do a ferment and see what's up?

 

[Microbeman]

I never thought I'd be weeding weed but these volunteers are coming up by the dozen amidst the columbines I've been desperately trying to grow in this different climate for them.

 

[Microbeman]

Weedkashi

Weedkashi

About 9 months ago we began an experiment by mixing some weeds with EM, molasses and water and sealed it into a plastic bin.
We opened it today expecting to have a liquid fermentation but found only finished beautiful looking compost.
Hidden from everyday view were 2 holes created by UV rays from exposure to the sun.
We began a new batch in the shade.
You can see the line of where the liquid was.

 

[Microbeman]

Here is a link to a video of some rotifers in the weedkashi compost.
You will also see some testate amoebae, one of which is ungracefully pushed aside by the first rotifer. The compost is loaded with bacteria, testate amoebae and flagellates. It is already mixed into pots for our tree transplants.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cs5Yj6vQvaA

 

[Rico Swazi]

I never thought I'd be weeding weed but these volunteers are coming up by the dozen amidst the columbines I've been desperately trying to grow in this different climate for them.

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the challenge can be the most fun albeit frustrating at times
I would expect the seeds from your columbine pants will be more acclimated to the climate in coming years. hopefully.


not by the dozens but a volunteer 'weed' will pop up here and there
made it thru the snow and cold nights (20F) without a care


the soil is a mix of leaf mold, comfrey leaf and mature woody compost that I showed earlier in this thread

 

[Hookahhead]

Gliricidia sepium is a hardy, fast growing tree in the legume family. It has many uses in sustainable agriculture.

One of the folk uses in my area is to rid your animals of flea and ticks. There isn’t a ton of published research, but I did find some interesting and relatable bits.

Kakawate (Gliricidia sepium, Leguminosae) as a Soil Amendment and Biological Control of Soil-Borne Pathogens: the Philippines Experience.

Preparation of G. sepium extract varied with farmer’s ingenuity and locality. There were farmers using leaves of kakawate alone, while others prepared it in combination with other lesser-known plant resources such as Andrographis paniculata, Derris trifoliata and Tinospora rumphii (Table 1). The leaves and small branches were ground up, mixed with water and let them stand overnight. The concoction was sprayed on the standing rice crop in the following days. Because of the remarkable properties of kakawate, a farmer leader was inspired and has developed fermented kakawate extract, named as ‘kakawate plus’ (L.A. Aristorenas, pers. commun., 2009). The positive effects of this concoction to rice crop as liquid organic fertilizer and botanical pesticide had encouraged local farmers to adopt it. These farmers claimed that frequent spraying of kakawate extracts made to boost rice resistance to any pests, especially problems on root blackening and root rot at maximum tillering stage. Moreover, the incorporation of kakawate leaves with small branches during land preparation has been a practice in some farms to avert the problems on bacterial wilt in any growth stages of rice plant and seedling damping-off on transplanted seedlings.

Findings such as these can be supported by some research on both antifungal and antimicrobial properties of kakawate extracts. The insecticidal property of kakawate was tested by Aludino (1998) using its leaf extract on adult potato leafhoppers. The research showed the increasing trend in mortality rate with increased concentration of extracts. The leaf extract was also used by Pascua et al. (2005) to suppress purple blotch and bulb/root rot in garlic production, and attributed the control effects on the presence of alkanes and wax esters in the extract. Kaniampady et al. (2007) cited in his experiment, that there were 42 known compounds found in the leaves and flowers of G. sepium that add up to become an effectual pesticide.

TOXIC, GROWTH-INHIBITORY AND ANTIFEEDANT ACTIVITY OF GLIRICIDIA SEPIUM JACQ. LEAF EXTRACT AGAINST DYSDERCUS KOENIGII FABRICIUS, ACHAEA JANATA LLNNAEUS AND SPODOPTERA LITURA FABRICIUS

Evaluations of toxicity, antifeedant, growth-regulatory activity of the methanol extract
of Gliricidia sepium leaves were carried out against Dysdercus koenigii Fabr. (Heteroptera: Pyrrhocoridae), Achaea Janata Linn, and Spodoptera litura Fab., (both Lepidoptera: Noctuidae). Topical application of 100-300 |ig of the extract to different stages of the test insects resulted in dose-dependent effects including larval-pupal intermediates and deformed adults. The highest tested dosage (300 u g /
1^1) resulted in reduced survival rate and morphological abnormalities. At certain doses a strong antifeedant activity was evident against the lepidopteran insects.

A study done by Alfredo Rabena, a full time professor at the University or Northern Philippines in Vigan City, found that Madre de Cacao leaves are good source of coumarins. A toxic substance that can kill almost all types of pests and insects.
Rabena said one kilogram of kakawati leaves, soaked In water overnight can produce seven gallons of “botanopesticides” (botanical pesticides).
“The more leaves, the more concentrated the pesticides he said.
Rabena said he conducted the study in 1996 in collaboration with a Malaysian chemist Dr. Nordin Lajiz at the University of the Philippines in Los Baños, Laguna

https://lifejourney01.blogspot.com/2012/01/insecticidal-effects-of-madre-de-cacao.html?m=1

I’m currently infected with root aphids. Let’s see if this works!

 

[Hookahhead]

The root aphids killed off one of my bigger clones (this is what tipped me off to the problem), so I’ve kept that plant/container outside to test various controls.

I posted earlier in this thread (Post 439) about some beneficial microorganisms available at most agriculture stores here. One of these is Metarhizium anisopliae. I inoculated the pot immediately upon seeing the aphids. Sadly, this fungus does not seem effective against the nymph stage. There are still hundreds of nymphs in the container, actually running through the fungal hyphae. However, upon inspection today, I noticed that the fungi had claimed at least 1 flier! Here you can see the dead adult with spore bodies, and a healthy nymph beside it.

 

[Rico Swazi]

Gliricidia sepium is a hardy, fast growing tree in the legume family. It has many uses in sustainable agriculture.

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One of the folk uses in my area is to rid your animals of flea and ticks. There isn’t a ton of published research, but I did find some interesting and relatable bits.

I’m currently infected with root aphids. Let’s see if this works!

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Gliricidia sepium is a intercroppers dream have you considered it ? Shame its not cold tolerant, would love to grow that one!
I would certainly intercrop for the bacterial infection and coppice the plant for the ramial wood


according to the wiki link-


" G. Sepium tolerates being cut back to crop height, and can even be coppiced, year after year. When the trees are cut back, they enter a temporary dormant state during which their root systems do not compete for nutrients needed by the crops, so the crops can establish themselves.[9]"


^sounds lovely




Wouldn't use it for a pesticide though because of the anti fungal and anti microbial properties stated in your links. The use of ferments and extractions may/may not be the cause and not the answer to pests in your soil, It may or may not but something to consider at any rate as your soil is out of balance from something.... gotta figure out what/why is all. Good luck with the root aphids.

 

[Rico Swazi]

The root aphids killed off one of my bigger clones (this is what tipped me off to the problem), so I’ve kept that plant/container outside to test various controls.

I posted earlier in this thread (Post 439) about some beneficial microorganisms available at most agriculture stores here. One of these is Metarhizium anisopliae. I inoculated the pot immediately upon seeing the aphids. Sadly, this fungus does not seem effective against the nymph stage. There are still hundreds of nymphs in the container, actually running through the fungal hyphae. However, upon inspection today, I noticed that the fungi had claimed at least 1 flier! Here you can see the dead adult with spore bodies, and a healthy nymph beside it.

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Instead of buying beneficial microorganisms, have you considered IMOs , BIMs ?


Started another IMO collection using rice Jan 9th this year. The idea is to compliment summer microbes with those in winter for more diversity.

the donor soil is a mix of old and new , some from the new compost heap and some from a winter grow intended to aclimate the Jack Herer pheno my friends and i love. The plan is to self one plant and pollinate the other and test those seeds against clones over year after year. Plants been harvested, root trimmed and are revegging now. This is addition to the acclimating comment earlier

collection box 20 days later

Though the beetle didn't seem to mind, my concern is over the amount of red and blurple colors .
Should I be?
into the bucket with molasses to ferment is where it sits til I hear from those that know


For now,been using the summer BIM at 500/1 on the leaf mold/compost soil that i am growing lettuce and broc in now (along with that volunteer! lol)
pic taken today named 'Yes! we have no e.coli !'

five pics why not, lol
the recent heavy wind rain and snow uncovered some hooglie beets for a tasty surprise last week

 

[Organilush]

Some "local materials" that I'll be using this time around for trellising & support, instead of purchasing bamboo, is some "giant reed" from local riparian areas.

"Arundo Donax", or Giant Reed, is invasive and pretty wide spread around the world...Certainly invasive around California/the west....The canes/stalks from this plant are similar to bamboo, not quite as strong as bamboo but more than plenty strong enough for trellising & support. This plant/material has been used around the world for ages.

Good material to have on hand.

.

 

[Microbeman]

Instead of buying beneficial microorganisms, have you considered IMOs , BIMs ?


Started another IMO collection using rice Jan 9th this year. The idea is to compliment summer microbes with those in winter for more diversity.


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the donor soil is a mix of old and new , some from the new compost heap and some from a winter grow intended to aclimate the Jack Herer pheno my friends and i love. The plan is to self one plant and pollinate the other and test those seeds against clones over year after year. Plants been harvested, root trimmed and are revegging now. This is addition to the acclimating comment earlier


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collection box 20 days later


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Though the beetle didn't seem to mind, my concern is over the amount of red and blurple colors .
Should I be?
into the bucket with molasses to ferment is where it sits til I hear from those that know


For now,been using the summer BIM at 500/1 on the leaf mold/compost soil that i am growing lettuce and broc in now (along with that volunteer! lol)
pic taken today named 'Yes! we have no e.coli !'


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five pics why not, lol
the recent heavy wind rain and snow uncovered some hooglie beets for a tasty surprise last week



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I would not worry about the red colour. I wonder if it indicates any photropic organisms.

I'm talking myself into a brave experiment... to try using a 0.2% boric acid solution as a foliar to try controlling fungal pathogens and leaf sucking insects at the same time. I do not see it as a long term treatment [so far] but I've read studies where it is used like that as a micro-nutrient. It also has anti-fungal properties, mostly for people and I know it kills insects.

It is very cheap to purchase.

 

[Hookahhead]

Following up on my Tithonia diversifolia ferment (Post #453), on day 91 (13 weeks).

A little more than a week ago the fungi had covered the top completely. I didn’t end up dragging it out for a photo shoot. Unfortunately the rubber band that had been holding the plastic on broke, allowing higher air exchange. The fungus has all wilted, and a few bugs have entered.

So I put a cap on it and shook it vigorously. Shaking released a lot of CO2 and it needed to be vented. I’ll give it another 10-14 days before filtering it and using it.

 

[Hookahhead]

Rico I haven’t made IMO directly yet, I should probably get on it. The beneficials I am using are cheap, only a few bucks a packet. Knowing for sure that certain effective microbes are in the soil mix gives me a bit of comfort.

Hindsight is 20/20, looking back I know right when and where RAs entered the picture. I had used a batch of recycled soil that hadn’t been finished. I also had a lot of plants crammed into a small indoor space. I knew the soil wasn’t ready, but I needed to up pot those plants! The soil texture was off and resulted in water logging the bottoms. It was the perfect scenario to invite a plague. Lesson learned.

Sadly I admit that I handled my RA problem by using Imidacloprid as a root drench then cleaning everything with bleach. It was a hard moral decision to make. I had researched various options, and tried a few tests myself. Nothing had the knock down power I needed to let me get ahead of them. All of the plants were suffering significantly , to the point of a few plants dying completely. A bunch of seedlings I started we’re severely dwarfed and struggling this past month. It’s been 5 days now and all of the plants look incredible, finally pushing out healthy growth.

I am very familiar with the dangers of Imidacloprid. However I was able to treat all of my plants for less than 1$. I used it responsibly, and can now use the new biological controls I discovered in this process as a preventative. All the untreated soil that I have on hand has been wrapped like a taco in a black tarp, in full tropical sun for most 90% of the day. Water left in a hose in the same environment will damn near scald you when it first comes out.

Just a side note, the RAs mostly afflicted the indoor plants being raised in plastic pots, once they were moved to cloth bags outside the problem seemed to vanish in a week or two, finishing with a mostly healthy but stunted plant. Plans are in the works to move the veg area outside as well, where the beneficials can do their job more effectively. Prevention is everything, and I let my guard down...

 

[Rico Swazi]

Minor setback for a smart guy like you Hookah and I mean that. Realizing where things may have gone sideways is paramount to getting it right the next time. I have personally seen people do the same thing over and over, killing all biology for example, and expect a different result. The insanity of it all ! Your humility is refreshing to say the least


Good vibes going your way in your effort to bring nature back into a balance that you, the plants and the insects can live with.

 

[Rico Swazi]

I would not worry about the red colour. I wonder if it indicates any photropic organisms.

I'm talking myself into a brave experiment... to try using a 0.2% boric acid solution as a foliar to try controlling fungal pathogens and leaf sucking insects at the same time. I do not see it as a long term treatment [so far] but I've read studies where it is used like that as a micro-nutrient. It also has anti-fungal properties, mostly for people and I know it kills insects.

It is very cheap to purchase.

Thank you for easing my mind as the small band of brothers I am part lost a good friend that knew microscopy... followed your work to help us out when we had questions. Been flying high and blind ever since. I was willed one of his scopes but family + greed put a quick end to that possibility.


I did something different from times in the past by placing a brown paper bag against the rice with a towel over that .

My first thought upon inspection was the bag was contaminated with something funky to cause such vibrant colors.
Interesting they are possible phototropic (chemotrophic?) and I am able to carry on.
they sure were pretty , pic taken with flash

Re: boron

calcium chloride+ boron?
boron+sugar ?



or would you be using the product borax is pimping ?

https://agriculture.borax.com/products/solubor


Going back a few pages you said you acquired the lot, anything new on the woodchip side of things? Some of the local community garden folk came by to see why it is important to turn compost piles for better faster results.


Stratified fungi

 

[Hookahhead]

Thanks for the kind words Rico. It’s amazing how quickly the plants responded. I think we’re on the right track again!

The red fungal stuff kind of reminds me of what is called “lipstick mold” by mushroom cultivators.

Lipstick Mold – Sporendonema purpurescens (Geotrichum candidium)

This fungus colonizes compost or casing. As spores mature, the color of the mold changes from white to pink, to cherry red, and finally to dull orange. It is slow growing. Spores spread in air, during watering, and on pickers. The lipstick mold utilizes certain fats in the compost.

 

[Microbeman]

Thank you for easing my mind as the small band of brothers I am part lost a good friend that knew microscopy... followed your work to help us out when we had questions. Been flying high and blind ever since. I was willed one of his scopes but family + greed put a quick end to that possibility.


I did something different from times in the past by placing a brown paper bag against the rice with a towel over that .


View Image


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My first thought upon inspection was the bag was contaminated with something funky to cause such vibrant colors.
Interesting they are possible phototropic (chemotrophic?) and I am able to carry on.
they sure were pretty , pic taken with flash


View Image



Re: boron

calcium chloride+ boron?
boron+sugar ?



or would you be using the product borax is pimping ?
https://agriculture.borax.com/blog/july-2017/need-a-quick-acting-boron-supplement-spray-it!


Going back a few pages you said you acquired the lot, anything new on the woodchip side of things? Some of the local community garden folk came by to see why it is important to turn compost piles for better faster results.


Stratified fungi

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It occurred to me the red could also be produced by some species of trichoderma. I think I posted a pic somewhere here. That may make more sense, however many phototropic organisms can flourish without light periodically.

We have been working very slowly on the lot. First we had to add some pit run to level and expand it. For the area where my motorhome sits we used large solid concrete 'bricks' as pavers on a base of sand. My hypothesis of mixing screened sand 3:1 with hydraulic cement, sweeping into the seams and wetting [with watering can] looks like it worked in spectacular fashion. It is quite solid with the weight of the motorhome - so far.

Next is welding up steel frame for some roof/shade. We had to wire in a breaker/switch and power outlet direct to my generator for that. I had a guy come to estimate a 5000 watt solar system. We'll see what the cost is.

I have about 30 potted trees we grew from the cuttings to move over for a miniforest.


What I have is processed boric acid H3BO3 which is water soluble. It is created with one of the following;

Boric acid may be prepared by reacting borax (sodium tetraborate decahydrate) with a mineral acid, such as hydrochloric acid:

Na2B4O7·10H2O + 2 HCl → 4 B(OH)3 [or H3BO3] + 2 NaCl + 5 H2

It is also formed as a byproduct of hydrolysis of boron trihalides and diborane:

B2H6 + 6 H2O → 2 B(OH)3 + 6 H2

BX3 + 3 H2O → B(OH)3 + 3 HX (X = Cl, Br, I)

https://thechemco.com/chemical/boric-acid/

more info;

https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Boric-acid#section=Depositor-Supplied-Synonyms

https://draxe.com/health/boric-acid/

https://www.researchgate.net/figure...c-acid-on-pearl-drop-June-drop_fig3_242014802

I can buy it super cheap at the corner store where it is sold as laundry detergent booster, etc. I have no idea the purity, etc. I know it works on the ants.

I'm going to try it once this rain storm is over on some thrips and some mildew [powdery I think but maybe downy]