Living organic soil from start through recycling

[Microbeman]

If the world really knew how many grows were saved due to an EWC topdress,we'd have access to higher quality EWC on very local levels by now...and for shits and giggles the latest results of TO x BMR Bx1....

View Image

That's nice.

 

[Microbeman]

gascan

in the first post you say to let the soil "cook" in the containers that you are going to be planting in

how important is it that you do it that way? will there be a noticeable difference in the grow if i let things cook in a 40 gallon bin and then fill the pots?

If all of your ingredients are fully composted (or aged) there is no need to cook/compost. This is only necessary if you have ingredients like plant tissue (alfalfa meal especially) which may heat up the soil as it is decomposed. (or manures, blood, etc)

 

[VortexPower420]

I guess no question for now, I forgot to delete before posting
ooops

 

[greenmatter]

If all of your ingredients are fully composted (or aged) there is no need to cook/compost. This is only necessary if you have ingredients like plant tissue (alfalfa meal especially) which may heat up the soil as it is decomposed. (or manures, blood, etc)

i'm pretty much running the recipe that gascan posted at the beginning of the thread so i think i need to "cook"

i was reading something about how certain microbes inhabit certain levels in the soil ( i believe the term used was stratify ) ........ that is what made me wonder if changing containers would have the same effect on what we make as a plow does in a new field

goofy question maybe, but i figured i should ask instead of wonder.

 

[W89]

I always bubble my sprout teas and botanical teas just for the fact that oxygen keeps it fresh and agitated I would imagine it matures quicker when agitated instead of just sat on the bottom doing nothing

 

[Microbeman]

i'm pretty much running the recipe that gascan posted at the beginning of the thread so i think i need to "cook"

i was reading something about how certain microbes inhabit certain levels in the soil ( i believe the term used was stratify ) ........ that is what made me wonder if changing containers would have the same effect on what we make as a plow does in a new field

goofy question maybe, but i figured i should ask instead of wonder.

Yes microbes are hierachically arranged in the soil and this is why I prefer no-till but sometimes perfection is evasive and you must do what is at hand. Not a goofy question and it is pretty similar.

 

[W89]

Yes microbes are hierachically arranged in the soil and this is why I prefer no-till but sometimes perfection is evasive and you must do what is at hand. Not a goofy question and it is pretty similar.

I'm sure I read this in teaming with microbes, I could be wrong tho...I'm defo gonna have to re-read that book!

 

[ClackamasCootz]

It seems the purple/black barleys do, in general, have higher protein contents averaging around 16% & 17% - Tokuji barley is the highest I found @ 20% - for whatever that's worth!

Blue Jay Way

Actually that could explain a couple of observations when using the heirloom Barley from Tibet vs. the hybrid strains usually found. I learned that there are actually 4 or 5 'purple' cultivars from the Himalaya Mountains - Tibet, Bhutan, etc. which are being grown by boutique grain farmers.

Many enzymes are proteins - most is probably the more accurate term. The activity in the soaking cycle after sprouting is far higher with the purple barley I was gifted by Gascan. Especially 'fungi fuzz' on the top of the water if you're not aerating the mix. Within 18 hours or less at room temperature. A huge amount in and around the mouth of the jar.

I'm using a 1/2 gallon Mason-type jar. Could be another brand but it's the same deal. A 6-pack of the 1/2 gallon jars are around $10.00 at Ace Hardware - pretty hard to beat that price.

CC

 

[VortexPower420]

While I was looking for Organic Heirloom Barley I stumbled across a sprout online warehouse. Super cheap prices and they are having a 20% off sale in Jan. Just thought I would share

 

[ClackamasCootz]

I was wondering what the effects of to much Humics was. You also mention not adding Aluminum-silicate clays if you plan on using Bioag's Humic products, I have added a minimal amount and was wondering if you think it will be a problem if I plan on using Ful-Power and Ful Humic on a regular basis. Also what are your application rates and frequency?

VortexPower420

This will probably be one of the very few times where you buy a garden amendment and the label warns you not to over-apply. The issue is with Fulvic acid because the molecules are small enough to penetrate into the mitochondria - the center of a cell's activity.

Over-application can result in your plants looking like something from Jurassic Park and all the flushing in the world can't fix it. If you apply these acids per the instructions on the label you will be fine and you will get a good value for your money.

There are two scientists at BioAg: Dr. Robert Faust (founder) and Ryan Zadow. Ryan wrote an article that appeared in Maximum Yield titled The Real Dirt on Humic Substances that covers quite a bit of information - well worth your time reading.

CC

 

[VortexPower420]

Thanks. Is that article on the Bioag website or could you give the url. The link didn't work. I'm going to read the whole Bioag website later so I might find it

 

[ClackamasCootz]

That is a link, i.e. the title of the article takes you to the PDF file

HTH

CC

 

[Cann]

cootz - i picked up a few bags of bu's blend biodynamic compost today and it is crumbly dry...been sitting around for a long while I imagine, as nobody down here cares about quality compost...anyway, do you think a lot of the goodness is gone because it has lost moisture, or if I rehydrate will all the microorganisms reactivate and make it effectively good as new (after a week or so of rehydration. would love to hear your 2cents

they were selling it for $15 per cuft bag, so you know it's been sitting around a while (too good of a deal for down here..the bags are also sunbleached, etc.)

 

[Weyenot]

I am just looking for a good fulvic/humic supplement that I can preferably foliar feed. The cytoplus and TM-7 didn't look bad, but like you guys said I probably don't need either of those as long as I have another source of micronutrients (tm-7) and seaweed (cytoplus) - both of which can be achieved with kelp lol. I ended up just going with the ful-power, I think it will serve my purposes fine. No VAM for me, I already have a bunch of different mycorrhizal inoculants that are top notch.

On another note - homeboy at the hydro store tried to convince me that all fulvic supplements are identical....was really pushing the advanced nutrients fulvic supplement...told me it was better than ful-power lol (everything but ful-power is derived from leonardite ) . laughed in his face and proceeded to buy the ful-power. They did have it on sale for cheaper than retail ($40 gallon!!!) so that was nice, although they only had one gallon in stock and nothing smaller...so I guess I'm stocked up on ful-power for a while lol.


cootz where are ya??? your presence is greatly missed

Whew, it sounds like he(hydrobro) was laying it on thick; so mister hydro guy, if all fulvics are the same why are you pushing a certain one eh? Good for you for ignoring his alluring "siren song", heheh
Ill be curious to hear about your results with the FulP; seriously, the "praying effect on mine is close to what the nettle teas or enzyme brews do and the growth sees a noticeable jump!
What Mycos do you have? I havent gotten the VAM yet because Im still working through the last of the kind sold by EJ; it will be interesting to see any differences because up until now I havent seen any direct link to a benefit from the EJ kind.....we shall see!!

 

[ClackamasCootz]

Cann

Hydrate it with an AACT - you'll be fine. I had the same experience with the first bags I had shipped to Oregon from So-So Cali a couple of years ago. Everything was fine after a bit of tweaking.

At the very least you now have some time to secure a better source or maybe your own humus projects will have finished up. Not ideal but you've got the skills & the materials (EWC, sprouted seed teas, kelp, etc.) to keep things movin' & groovin' to a moon-aged child

As a matter of practice I always top-dress every plant with a couple of inches of EWC and make aloe vera your 2nd favorite plant.

CC

 

[Weyenot]

So if the "hydro shop" was selling Organic recycle Soil (ORS) how would i know witch container is best to pick up? is there a test or something i could do to gauge how "active" a soil is?

Hey there BG; soooooo why would you want to buy your soil, why not just make your own and enjoy taking a more direct role in the process of caring for the plant? Its empowering

 

[Weyenot]

I actually let my fresh cutting sit 24 hours in aloe vera and coconut solution then followed the recipe above with 50% perlite and 50% EWC.
2 weeks later BAM.....

https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=20708&pictureid=1007408View Image https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=20708&pictureid=1007407View Image

No artificial flavoring or chemicals allowed!!!!

Thanks for sharing N420, I should give soaking a shot. I have been simply soaking the cloning medium( peat ) in aloe/coconut solution and sticking the cuts in. I would add silica but I dont want to buy any Protekt and the sites Ive found that carry Agsil16H are out of stock, soon they wont though hopefully! Anyways....by soaking, the cut should be able accumulate some solution in its tissues which would help it survive the transformation I would think.
Good thought on the EWC/Perlite mix, I should revisit that method; I tried that in the past a few times but didnt have good results but Im pretty sure this was because of cold soil temps

 

[ClackamasCootz]

New 420

Try replacing the Perlite with straight Sphagnum - disease suppression and it's biologically alive.

CC

 

[Weyenot]

Howdy folks,
Something I noticed is how beneficial bubbling spout teas seems to be. Not only does it keep it moving and cut down smell but I seem to have better results. I am not sure if this was mentioned before, I know I have seen it discussed both ways. I started not bubbling and after 2 days it would ferment and start to smell, i would also note that the sprouts would stop growing.

When I started bubbling my results were better ( almost watch plants jump) but the sprouts would still be growing and viable.

I have a feeling that as the sprouts grow they are still producing enzymes and extracting the stuff we want. Right? I do know at least they are not being broken down by fermentation.

CC- Fist off good to see you and your knowledge back at the "Thread of truth", even though I don't participate much I love reading yours and everyone elses informative posts. Thank you all.
I was wondering what the effects of to much Humics was. You also mention not adding Aluminum-silicate clays if you plan on using Bioag's Humic products, I have added a minimal amount and was wondering if you think it will be a problem if I plan on using Ful-Power and Ful Humic on a regular basis. Also what are your application rates and frequency?

Thanks All

Timbuktu


That leads me to my next question

Thank you for the reminder, I need to try some aeration!!
Ive been sprouting and then soaking for a few days without aeration and yes I have been getting a bit of a fermented smell; I followed soaking with a trip into the blender and then a quick strain before diluting and applying.

 

[Weyenot]

New 420

Try replacing the Perlite with straight Sphagnum - disease suppression and it's biologically alive.

CC

Thank you for some more inspiration CC, what a wonderful way to upgrade this mix. I just used up my last bit of perlite and I would be completely happy to never buy it again. I just had the thought that rice hulls could be another possible addition, not to replace the peat but in addition to it. A little extra aeration couldnt hurt eh?