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Living organic soil from start through recycling CONTINUED...
- Thread starter gaiusmarius
- Start date
A very very joke
A very very joke
I thought it was the same thing.
A very very joke
I thought it was the same thing.
Last edited:
I guess I offended your sensibilities by simply choosing to share how I do things. I do so anonymously and I am not tied to any interest, my own or any others, commercial or otherwise. I do it so people can have an idea what to expect if they attempt the same. This was the real value I got from watching others do something I haven't (such as previous contributions of LOS members)
Interesting since I never criticized you once, I simply said that your way of doing things suits you better than me.
Stops and ends there, I don't need people to find value in it for my own edification/validation.
Interesting since I never criticized you once, I simply said that your way of doing things suits you better than me.
Stops and ends there, I don't need people to find value in it for my own edification/validation.
Capt. Kush
Member
Hello guys,
So, I read about CEC, and I don't get how much of the amendments I should put so that it has the ideal ratio. Can anyone help?
This is the recipe that I want to use, but just want to make sure if this has the ideal CEC.
Thanks in advance.
Base Soil
1/3 Sphagnum Peat from Premier Peat or Alaska Peat
1/3 Aeration material (2 parts Perlite, 2 parts chunky coco, 1 part Vermiculite) Granite stonedust
1/3 Humus (1 part EWC, 1 part local / used topsoil, 1 part leaf litter, 1 part compost)
Per Cubic Foot of the Base Soil:
½ Cup DE
½ Cup Espoma Starter Plus
1 cup Charcoal
½ Cup Epsom Salt
4 cups Rock Powders (1X Glacial, 1X Bentonite, 1X Oyster Shell, 1X Basalt)
Rock dust glacial or basalt provides all the minerals and macro minerals that plants need that other nutes don't have. Rock dust is also a nutrient accumulator. Fungi also grabs on to phosphates in rock dust.
½ Cup Neem Meal
1 Cup Crab Shell Meal
(1/2 cup)2 Cups Kelp Meal
2 Cups Fish Meal
2 Cups Fish Bone Meal
1 Cup Sul-Po-Mag
½ Cup Alfalfa
1.5 Cups Montmorillonite clay (azomite, bentonite, zeolite)
1.5 Cups Pyrophyllite Clay
1x Azomite (full range of minerals for the most part)
1x Gypsum (Calcium [elemental form Ca++] & Sulfur)
1x Limestone (Calcium Carbonate CaCO3)
Mix equal parts and then use 2 cups of the mix to 1 c.f. of potting soil
So, I read about CEC, and I don't get how much of the amendments I should put so that it has the ideal ratio. Can anyone help?
This is the recipe that I want to use, but just want to make sure if this has the ideal CEC.
Thanks in advance.
Base Soil
1/3 Sphagnum Peat from Premier Peat or Alaska Peat
1/3 Aeration material (2 parts Perlite, 2 parts chunky coco, 1 part Vermiculite) Granite stonedust
1/3 Humus (1 part EWC, 1 part local / used topsoil, 1 part leaf litter, 1 part compost)
Per Cubic Foot of the Base Soil:
½ Cup DE
½ Cup Espoma Starter Plus
1 cup Charcoal
½ Cup Epsom Salt
4 cups Rock Powders (1X Glacial, 1X Bentonite, 1X Oyster Shell, 1X Basalt)
Rock dust glacial or basalt provides all the minerals and macro minerals that plants need that other nutes don't have. Rock dust is also a nutrient accumulator. Fungi also grabs on to phosphates in rock dust.
½ Cup Neem Meal
1 Cup Crab Shell Meal
(1/2 cup)2 Cups Kelp Meal
2 Cups Fish Meal
2 Cups Fish Bone Meal
1 Cup Sul-Po-Mag
½ Cup Alfalfa
1.5 Cups Montmorillonite clay (azomite, bentonite, zeolite)
1.5 Cups Pyrophyllite Clay
1x Azomite (full range of minerals for the most part)
1x Gypsum (Calcium [elemental form Ca++] & Sulfur)
1x Limestone (Calcium Carbonate CaCO3)
Mix equal parts and then use 2 cups of the mix to 1 c.f. of potting soil
MJtheIndicator
Member
I'm a sucker for soil recipes, for some reason I keep fixating on how many folks are turning to agriculture's old pal alfalfa. It got me pondering sodium nitrate (chilean saltpeter) as nitrogen source. I can assume folks aren't too crazy about nitrates, but what I don't notice among organic communities is evidence of practical experience first hand with such fertilizers.
What I mean to say is testing can show us how cancers form, but are we confusing a chemical used for curing meats with any alleged cancer causing affects when its delivery and usage in agriculture might not afford the same results or dangers? If there are modern tests showing the disadvantage of using something like sodium nitrate I would be interested.
What I mean to say is testing can show us how cancers form, but are we confusing a chemical used for curing meats with any alleged cancer causing affects when its delivery and usage in agriculture might not afford the same results or dangers? If there are modern tests showing the disadvantage of using something like sodium nitrate I would be interested.
If you get higher Na than K in your soil you get burnt edges cause Na replaces K.
I fear Na even more than nitrate
MJtheIndicator
Member
Very true about sodium Joe, but I have difficulty ignoring it as a building block. In sodium nitrate's case you have high solubility, which would allege its ease of regulation. I know folks might brand me a salt monger which isn't really what I'm getting at, but I think the build up everyone fears is possibly off-base since toxic sodium levels in this context might take many years to reach. Anyhow we have oceans full of it and a majority of organic growers who champion using fish by-product, so I guess I'm trying to weed through too much getting from point A to B in understanding big farm's usage for over a century and a contemporary denial among organic growers.
plants are attractive as a feed source to the los community because they are easily the most locally sustainable source of nutrient available regardless of who you are or where you live
They also offer the greatest bio-compatibility from anecdotal terms because in essence you want to add exactly what the plant needs and what the plant needs in a LOS garden is what was used by the last generation that was harvested, nothing less nothing more.
Feeding plants plants makes smart sense in this regards especially in regards to allelopathic relationships.
Minerals including those harvested by the sea have use and purpose but not for everyone and not in all scenarios.
They also offer the greatest bio-compatibility from anecdotal terms because in essence you want to add exactly what the plant needs and what the plant needs in a LOS garden is what was used by the last generation that was harvested, nothing less nothing more.
Feeding plants plants makes smart sense in this regards especially in regards to allelopathic relationships.
Minerals including those harvested by the sea have use and purpose but not for everyone and not in all scenarios.
MJtheIndicator
Member
Hunter/gatherer same dif, these beings are sentient we all decompose. I don't look at this plant and see any difference in myself or it, we are the same infinitely compatible. We have developed an endocannabinoid system with reason supporting these truths.
Salt hate is curious though.
Salt hate is curious though.
MJtheIndicator
Member
If you are going for a compound with silt as your cornerstone I would say yes.
dociron
Active member
Please explain, I'm an ignorant old bastard and can't read yer mind, so please, explain this for me
MJtheIndicator
Member
Please explain, I'm an ignorant old bastard and can't read yer mind, so please, explain this for me
word origin:
1400-50; late Middle English cylte gravel, perhaps orig. salty deposit; compare Old English unsylt unsalted, unseasoned, sylting seasoning, syltan to salt, season, Norwegian sylt salty swamp, German Sülze salt marsh, brine
Reference:
Goudie, A S; Viles, H A (1995). "The nature and pattern of debris liberated by salt weathering: a laboratory study". Earth Surface Processes and Landforms 9: 95–98.
MJtheIndicator
Member
We're warned of the dangers of salinity which is always helpful advice, but there's also a huge if not historical divide between hydro farmers and soil growers to consider (maybe). However, when I think of sativa varieties I think it fair to consider many of those origin strains come from high salt index geology. I'm sorry if it sounds like I am asking people to feed plants brackish water, because I'm not. I'm just glad there's some dialogue regarding this stuff. Loam is good stuff.
Please explain, I'm an ignorant old bastard and can't read yer mind, so please, explain this for me
MJ you never really answered the question, I would like to reiterate:
If using silt as your cornerstone,why are salts necessary for replicating a natural nutrient cycle?
And then, which salts are necessary for replicating a natural nutrient cycle?
