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Lime Question???

V

vonforne

Pimp Aurora said:



That's the only important info on the box, there was no paper work inside when I opened it up earlier.

49% Mg?

Hey Pimp, sounds like 1.5 per gallon would work. Good luck and keep us posted.


And about the Aglime....it is Calcitic. The difference is just the way it is mined and the Calcium content.

V
 

Pimp Aurora

Active member
This is taking ages.. 2 down 25 to go :puppydoge i'm giving it a real good mix trying to avoid hot spots.


...... 15 mins per pot x 25 pots = 375 mins divided by 60 mins per hr = 6hrs 15 mins groan lol
 

Blackvelvet

Member
By law, all ingredients will be on the label. If it doesn't mention magnesium carbonate, its not in there. If you look on the lime bag that contains both calcium and magnesium carbonate, it will also list elemental calcium and magnesium content. You want about a 2:1 calcium to magnesium level. :yes: So if you got 20% calcium, your aiming for about 10% magnesium. If your cal mag ratio is bad like 30% calcium and 3% magnesium (found a bag like this recently), you will need to add epsom salts or other magnesium source to your water. Most dolomite lime will have a good ratio of cal/mag like 21% calcium and 12% magnesium. I have found some that had alot of calcium and less than optimum magnesium. I remember one that had 24% calcium and 6% magnesium. Such a lime would need some extra mag in the water.
 

Danknuggler

Active member
OK then I hope we're all on the righ track lime wise right people???I think what I got is the right kind but the powdered dolomite would just have more surface area as Ninja stated earlier. Thanx again Ninja. Peace out all as all my lime questions have been answered. Dn
 

Pimp Aurora

Active member
btw I put a cup full of those granules in a plastic carrier bag, put that in another bag and hammered it carefully on a stone step to pulverize it into a dust, the mixing is a different story.. 15 left... gonna be a long night
 

Blackvelvet

Member
Pimp Aurora said:
That's cool, I can suppliment that with epsom salts as they start showing signs of a def, thanks for clearing that up :)
Once magnesium def starts to show, it can be slow and difficult to correct. Happens all the time in the cannabis infirmary with people not really getting a response even when more mag is added. Better to go ahead and add the epsom salts to your water if needed all along. A good constant rate to maybe add is 1/4 teaspoon epsom salts per gallon of water to the regular fert if its low in mag or nonexistant and more mag is needed. This is just a guess and more or less may be required. :wave:
 
G

Guest

I have seen a number of folks talk about how hydrated lime burns MJ plants.

That simply is not true. I used it on my current grow when I potted them, and then repotted them. I used about 2 Tablespoons per gallon in the mix I made up....based on the sticky I read. The sticky called for dolomite lime. I used Hoffman's hydrated lime...a powder with a fine flour like consistency. I might not use it at all for new seedlings. Maybe I will do some bagseed seedlings, some in hydrated lime and some with nothing

I used to live where the soil varied from acidic to very acidic. I used both dolomite and hydrated lime a lot. I used dolomite on my lawn for a slower release. I used hydrated in my vegetable garden boxes, raised bed type with my own soil mix. I also used hydrated lime in my raised bed flower beds in conjunction with std. topsoil and compost.

The plants you see in my grow are THRIVING in my opinion. There is not the first hit of burn of any kind. I water with tap water which has sat for a day or so and has a pH ranging from 7 to 7.5

You can used hydrated lime in grow mixes for weed. You need to incorporate it really well in your mix...as you should with anything you add to a mix that requires mixing in. I use it because peat is acidic, Fox farm nutes are acidic. Hydrated lime will provide immediate buffering. Dolomite won't, or IMO it won't do it as well because it is slower acting.

I'm sure I will get a lot of criticism, but the proof is in the plants IMO.

Good growing to ALL of you. I hope whatever lime you use, your plants grow HUGE POTENT buds!! :joint:

Obli :joint:

IMO these plants are pretty nice.


They say you can't grow in clear pots either. So my plants with hydrated lime and clear pots shud be double dead :sasmokin:



Frigging roots are white and growing like mad in there, trust me. 4.5 gallon pot
 

Dignan

The Soapmaker!
Veteran
Do you cut the amount of lime when using hydrated. I believe I've read, from those who, like you, assert that you can use hydrated lime without problem, that you want to cut the amount to 30-40% of what you'd use for dolo lime.

Plants look great. I'm inclined to take your word for it. :)

Peace-

Dig
 
G

Guest

Dignan said:
Do you cut the amount of lime when using hydrated. I believe I've read, from those who, like you, assert that you can use hydrated lime without problem, that you want to cut the amount to 30-40% of what you'd use for dolo lime.

Plants look great. I'm inclined to take your word for it. :)

Peace-

Dig

Hi again!!

No I used 2 Tablespoons/gallon of soiless mix. These were month old plants, but I think anything short of new seedlings wouyld be ok in hydrated lime. Just use less of it. This quote is from the this site:

http://www.goodearth.org/faq.cfm

What is the difference between Hoffman Hydrated Lime and dolomitic lime and what is it used for ?

Hydrated lime (calcium hydroxide) has more neutralizing power than the more common dolomitic (calcium-magnesium carbonate) limestone. Dolomitic lime is usually sold in 40-50lb. Bags vs. the small bag of Hydrated lime. This means that for gardening purposes, you should apply about two-thirds the recommended amount of Hydrated lime.

It’s main usage is to alter soil pH.


And YES, I know Hoffman is selling their product, but please don't tell me "hydrated lime" can't be used. I've used it gardening for more than 30 years...and now I'm using it on pot. And, I know this may come as a shock to some folks, but hydrated lime does work.

I'll admit that maybe you have to be more careful with it, but to simply say it "burns" pot plants is not accurate. And there is no question in my mind that hydrated lime acts quicker than dolomite lime....important (IMO anyway) in a grow that may only last 3months or less.

Happy growing! :woohoo:
Obli :joint:
 

18toki

New member
Hydrated or dolomite?

Hydrated or dolomite?

What do you recommend newbies to use for potting? Hydrated or dolomite?
 

Pimp Aurora

Active member
I'd use dolomite lime if you can get it, that way you wouldn't have to worry so much about any possible Mg deficiencies, i'm only using that other one as I can't get any dolomite lime local :(
 
G

Guest

18toki said:
What do you recommend newbies to use for potting? Hydrated or dolomite?

I'm a newbie and I used, and will continue to use Hoffman's hydrated lime. You can get it almost anywhere in the US. 1-2 Tablespoons per gallon of soil mix. Mix it in well and water correctly and you should be fine IMO.

The experienced and the experts will disagree with me, but as you can see from my plants pics, they are doing very well :joint:

Obli :joint:
 
Blackvelvet said:
Once magnesium def starts to show, it can be slow and difficult to correct. Happens all the time in the cannabis infirmary with people not really getting a response even when more mag is added. Better to go ahead and add the epsom salts to your water if needed all along. A good constant rate to maybe add is 1/4 teaspoon epsom salts per gallon of water to the regular fert if its low in mag or nonexistant and more mag is needed. This is just a guess and more or less may be required. :wave:

too much magnesium can lead to shortages in calcium . . . both are cations . . . as is potassium . . . they all use cation exchange sites in the soil . . . and a preponderance of any one . . . can lead to problems with the others . . .

it's our opinion that magensium shortages are not difficult to correct at all . . . but rather than just putting more and more epsom salts into the soil . . . we'd suggest that the best solution is to foliar feed with a mix of kelp concentrate and epsom salts . . .
 
Oblidio49 said:
Hi again!!

No I used 2 Tablespoons/gallon of soiless mix. These were month old plants, but I think anything short of new seedlings wouyld be ok in hydrated lime. Just use less of it. This quote is from the this site:

http://www.goodearth.org/faq.cfm

What is the difference between Hoffman Hydrated Lime and dolomitic lime and what is it used for ?

Hydrated lime (calcium hydroxide) has more neutralizing power than the more common dolomitic (calcium-magnesium carbonate) limestone. Dolomitic lime is usually sold in 40-50lb. Bags vs. the small bag of Hydrated lime. This means that for gardening purposes, you should apply about two-thirds the recommended amount of Hydrated lime.

It’s main usage is to alter soil pH.


And YES, I know Hoffman is selling their product, but please don't tell me "hydrated lime" can't be used. I've used it gardening for more than 30 years...and now I'm using it on pot. And, I know this may come as a shock to some folks, but hydrated lime does work.

I'll admit that maybe you have to be more careful with it, but to simply say it "burns" pot plants is not accurate. And there is no question in my mind that hydrated lime acts quicker than dolomite lime....important (IMO anyway) in a grow that may only last 3months or less.

Happy growing! :woohoo:
Obli :joint:


as you've discovered . . . hydrated lime CAN be used . . . it's just not our first choice . . .

for starters . . . here's a decent descriotion of exactly what hydrated lime actually is . . .

What is hydrated lime?
When water is added to burnt lime, the lime forms hydroxides. Gardeners calls this hydrated because we don't know if hydroxidated is a real word. This material is bulkier than agriculture lime. It can be used when plants are not present but can burn plant roots. It is more caustic than burnt lime. Most gardeners will use agricultural lime instead.


the reason most experienced gardeners suggest the use of calcite or dolomite limes rather than hydrated lime . . . is that calcite and dolomite limes are more "idiot proof" . . . it's a lot harder to screw up plants with dolomite and/or calcite lime . . . than it is with hydrated lime . . . which CAN damage plants . . .

just because it CAN damage plants . . . doesn't mean it will . . . as folks here have discovered . . . however . . . if over applied . . . or not mixed carefully . . . hydrated lime could harm plant roots . . . so most "experts" don't suggest it . . .

for individuals working hard to build a thriving microherd of microbes/'fungi/etc in their soil . . . hydrated lime isn't likely to help . . . it might discourage some members of the "soil food web" . . . it's too alkaline initially . . .
 
G

Guest

The Flintstoners:

I always enjoy your postings and your reputation as experienced growers speaks for itself. And I also have great respect for your opinions....I like your views on cannibis genetics which is a subject I really want to know more about.

Thanks for weighing in on this lime issue and doing it in an honest, thoughtful way. I know that dolomite lime is easier to use, especially for newbies who have little or no experience growing anything, nevermind cannibis. What was annoying me was seeing postings on several of these forums saying, in essence, "Hydrated lime will burn your plants"(emphasis is mine). I knew that wasn't true when used correctly.

I may be new at growing pot(actually not), but I have been growing things for 30+ years. I'm certified as a "Master Gardener" by a state I used to live in. I may not be a Master Cannibis Gardener yet, but I'm not ignorant on growing plants :sasmokin:

I do thank you for taking the time and clearing up this issue for all of us. I know most people on these forums respect your views. I know I do :joint:

Cheers
Obli
 

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