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Light Rails VS. Stationary Lights

Diego

Active member
I actually havent used the light rail before so I cant comment on what the price per month would be but would say that from experience its the same as using a 600 watt on a 1200 watts ability with a little longer flowering times varying by strain. I just know that the it averages a little over 2lbs for around 700 watts. I havent used a light rail just saying that with method mentioned it may take 2 weeks longer flowering time, but will get what most peopled get off a 1000 watts or more, also interchanging 3 lights in a 2 light area helps to improve light use. I am going to take pics of grow soon to explain more what I mean. I didnt want to go spend the 500ish for a couple light rails, I already have an excess of extra lights I am still not using so it was a cheaper method at the moment.

Edit: I learned this light interchangingn method from a article in high times about a year or so ago, that was trialed and errored by a dutch grower. I tried it and adjusted it to what I needed.
 
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Core

Quality Control Controller
ICMag Donor
Veteran
i also installed 1 in a new room i made...hope i can notice the diffrence...

 
G

Guest

There`s no way to improve yield with "less light"... Runnin back and forth for 20 minutes or so every cycle,depending on how long it takes to track back and forth does only one thing ...... It gives"angular light" to plants that grow outside of the canopy depth that overhead lights can penetrate horizontally.....600 Hortilux`s penetrate 28-32" with air-cooled hoods dropped down 10" above the plants depending on foliage,and 1000`s go a few inches deeper...maybe 36-38" if you`re lucky with a sativa-ish strain instead of an indica bush strain that covers "everything down below with leaves ALL in the way of light penetration to bud sites......But not much difference in watts and coverage and that`s why I`ll always use 600`s to disperse more light with close to the same wattage over a covered area.......The only true way to get the best out of your lights is to use them vertically with no reflector and provide all the light sideways and grow fewer and bigger plants which takes longer veg-time,so on and so forth but with great yields.....Been there and done that........Drop them down amongst your plants,and have enough A/C and heat extraction to compensate for the bare bulbs........Other than that...........It`s a trade off....pure and simple...........PEACE........DHF....... :sasmokin:
 

southwind

Member
yes

yes

Great information all of you!

keep it up, this is good info for all.
especially from experienced people for the newer folk.

Thank you
 

stikky budz

Active member
If you want to cover a bigger area with one light,,get a light mover,,,otherwise if heat is not going to be an issue get two lights, is my opinion after having one.
Personally,, i think they're best if they only move a couple of feet each run of the rail.
As has been pointed out, there's a long time the plants are well away from the lamp. I doubt the closer you can get outweighs the loss of light from distance.

Being a 600w user it was practically the same price as a new light. I had one of those 3.5 whateverthefuckitwas.

AND it was pretty noisy too. If stealth and quiteness is an issue,,forget it. Least forget those cheap end of the market 3.5 thingies. I dunno how quite the more pricey ones are.

s1cz : No disrespect man,, but going from 2 lights to 3 lights is going to improve things anyway. Your lights seem very high up. Being on movers you should be able to get them a lot closer ~ thats kinda the whole point... or have you raised them to take pictures?
Excellant looking garden btw :D
 
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DEDHEDFRED said:
There`s no way to improve yield with "less light"... Runnin back and forth for 20 minutes or so every cycle,depending on how long it takes to track back and forth does only one thing ...... It gives"angular light" to plants that grow outside of the canopy depth that overhead lights can penetrate horizontally.....600 Hortilux`s penetrate 28-32" with air-cooled hoods dropped down 10" above the plants depending on foliage,and 1000`s go a few inches deeper...maybe 36-38" if you`re lucky with a sativa-ish strain instead of an indica bush strain that covers "everything down below with leaves ALL in the way of light penetration to bud sites......But not much difference in watts and coverage and that`s why I`ll always use 600`s to disperse more light with close to the same wattage over a covered area.......The only true way to get the best out of your lights is to use them vertically with no reflector and provide all the light sideways and grow fewer and bigger plants which takes longer veg-time,so on and so forth but with great yields.....Been there and done that........Drop them down amongst your plants,and have enough A/C and heat extraction to compensate for the bare bulbs........Other than that...........It`s a trade off....pure and simple...........PEACE........DHF....... :sasmokin:

I get way more yield from each 1000W bulb now that I have movers.

I hang my lights vertically amongst the plants and grow trees & I still use movers with great success.
 

Fonzie

Member
all the doubters seem to be under the impression the light remains at the same height - or don't understand the benifit of lowering the light.

if you reduce the distance from 30 inches to 15 inches - the plant is recieving 4 times the total lumens - so loweing that light to 6 inches above the tops will be 16 times the lumen dose when the light is overhead - this spread over a 5 or 6 foot span - - -

I was convinced when Rez endorsed them, he appears to be un swayed by hype or marketing but says they do definatly increase yeild.

I have a slightly warped way of looking at it,,, for less than an oz of good bud would cost, I can improve my cycle harvests by over an oz - every harvest.

The factory has refurbished units - full warranty for a discounted price.

My local hydro store had them for $179 which was cheaper than the ones on eBay.
 

Fonzie

Member
you keep records?


lol



I would wager, like anything else in a grow - there is some tuneing to do to get optimum results. Rez said his preference was to set the delay to maximum - which increased exposure on the ends - and gave the new plants a comfey place in the middle to adjust in.

I figgure 2 1000W's in a 8 to 10-foot x 6 foot wide room would be about optimum for my conditions with the Light Rail in the mean time, I have an 8X4 foot space to learn in. With only 1000w's that's about 33 watts per square foot - which will be the same in the bigger room, so what I learn here will transfer diretly.

Anybody have a picture of the light to mover set up?
I have an idea, but wouldn't mind seeing how it's intended to hang. And I'll be looking at hanging another light, so multiple light hangers would be great too.

Current draw for the mover is miniscular. Just a few watts.
One thing I didn't think of that is a good idea, was a timer for the mover.
 
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Haps

stone fool
Veteran
I'm testing some DIY manual light movers, in veg and bloom - trying to save on the bills and use less light to do the same job. So far it seems to work well, I simulate the sun, the one only moves 2 ft over the day, the other about 4 ft. This one is a piece of a workout machine.
H
 
G

Guest

Trichome Toker.........Can you give us examples of "well over 1 gram per watt?"..........I`ve never gotten LESS than that EVER with stationary lights...horizontal and or vertical.........Listening and waiting patiently.............DHF...........
 
G

Guest

I guess an extra ounce paid for the mover so you`re flush now...........PEACE............DHF....... :sasmokin:
 

Diego

Active member
a light mover can get better yields its either move the plants or move the lights to obtain a more even canopy making sure that adequate lights reaches the areas it need be, if the light doesnt move nor the plant and say a smaller side branch is always shaded without movement of plant or light or branch thats in the way switching lights or using a mover could increase yield. They wouldnt sell them if they didnt.
 

mrwags

********* Female Seeds
ICMag Donor
Veteran
pseudo krypto said:
does it improve yield or not?


A light rail if set up correctly will give you enough buddage compared to anything else that when you read threads like this you will simply giggle and say yes I remember when. lol I run 2 1000 watters on a 3.5 mover that are sealed and air cooled with 18 buckets and get crazy enough yields that I don't talk about it any more. It is of course like anything else some time to PROPERLY set up is required but once completed all is well and the difference is like I said laughable. My gallery is full of pics regarding one light 2 lights and the like so the difference can be seen.


Mr.Wags
 
DEDHEDFRED said:
Trichome Toker.........Can you give us examples of "well over 1 gram per watt?"..........I`ve never gotten LESS than that EVER with stationary lights...horizontal and or vertical.........Listening and waiting patiently.............DHF...........

What?

I do get well over 1 gram per watt, but I never said that in this thread, so I don't know where you got that quote.

I said I got way more than an extra ounce per 1000W bulb after I got light movers.

If you don't think you can improve yields with a light mover I could care less, I have witnessed it with my own eyes, you can get ridiculous yields with a light mover.

The thread starter asked for my experiences with light movers, and I told him.

Do you think I am part of some conspiracy to sell light movers?
 
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mrwags

********* Female Seeds
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Fonzie said:
Anybody have a picture of the light to mover set up?
I have an idea, but wouldn't mind seeing how it's intended to hang. And I'll be looking at hanging another light, so multiple light hangers would be great too.


Here ya go Fonz.








Now the cooling fans do get a bit loud so :







This and all is well. Now you want total coverage at all times imo with the light so adjust accordingly as far as heat what heat air cooled and enables them to be kept close but yet cover THE ENTIRE AREA at all time's.

Oh and some one was asking about grams per watt?





I think a room of those will get me at least a gram a watt. :pointlaug



Have A Nice Day
Mr.Wags
 
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Fonzie

Member
watt did u say?


nice job there mrwags

Looks like you draw air thru all 3 lights? Kind of like in series - wouldn't that make the end light hotter


I was thinking placing lights end to end with a T between them for ducting - say maybe, 2, 4-inch into a 6 -inch hose.
 
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mrwags

********* Female Seeds
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Fonzie said:
watt did u say?


nice job there mrwags

Looks like you draw air thru all 3 lights? Kind of like in series - wouldn't that make the end light hotter


I was thinking placing lights end to end with a T between them for ducting - sat 2 4-inch into a 6


It is more convenient to place them this way but with the Daystar hoods this is the way to get the best coverage area. The end light is the same as the first,they are sealed tight and the fan sucks it through very quickly and the intake air is very cool this time of year.


Mr.Wags
 
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