acespicoli
Well-known member
Use your fungacide and report back next week
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ICMag with help from Landrace Warden and The Vault is running a NEW contest in November! You can check it here. Prizes are seeds & forum premium access. Come join in!
Let's see and hear about your sick plants!!
- Thread starter Gypsy Nirvana
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graser
Well-known member
Almost every grower/breeder has heard of HPlVd or has had something to do with it.
Unfortunately, to my knowledge there is still no black/whitelist that would offer real added value for everyone.
If you have any personal experience, it would be great if you could share it with us. Preferably well documented, perhaps even with the expertise of a recognized laboratory.
Then we wouldn't have to worry about catching shit. In addition, breeders would be forced to test their varieties and play with open cards. That would also be a good sales argument for them.
Would a moderator have mercy and create such a table, please.
Unfortunately, to my knowledge there is still no black/whitelist that would offer real added value for everyone.
If you have any personal experience, it would be great if you could share it with us. Preferably well documented, perhaps even with the expertise of a recognized laboratory.
Then we wouldn't have to worry about catching shit. In addition, breeders would be forced to test their varieties and play with open cards. That would also be a good sales argument for them.
Would a moderator have mercy and create such a table, please.
According to Tumi, who is biggest seller of test kits, and created the more advanced test, 90% of california growers have it in 30% of their plants. Have heard it can be dormant in a plant, and passed to clones of it.
There is information on symptoms by doing simple search. Lateral branching and brittle stems were 2 symptoms in veg state.
I never get that far in 20 clones, the mold kills them long before the flowering stage symptoms of dudding ever get a chance to start.
If anyone wants to split a batch of tumi tests, let me know. They only sell in batches of ten, and HLVD/Fusarium test is $45 a piece.
Here are some articles from tumi, including HLVD identification.
https://21668670.fs1.hubspotusercontent-na1.net/hubfs/21668670/Marketing/Resources/Guide/STOP Pathogens Program Guide.pdf?utm_campaign=Newsletter-Evergreen&utm_medium=email&_hsmi=280016591&_hsenc=p2ANqtz-9piVBjK3WHpkDDeKw3Wj_JEUUg2AzzohC8cfKC1qSi9NDf5i6A6nMig0GCr04Rfqdmr444ijRaHQIu2pO9JK9sd7xpKg&utm_content=279712174&utm_source=hs_email
https://21668670.fs1.hubspotusercontent-na1.net/hubfs/21668670/Marketing/Resources/Product Resources/Pan-Fusarium/Fusarium Validation-Final.pdf
https://tumigenomics.com/blog/hlvd-symptoms
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graser
Well-known member
A table where you can read whether seeds or cuttings are contaminated or virus-free would be simpler and cheaper.
We buyers are a market power, after all, they want our money.
It would also be a unique selling point for the forum if something like this were offered here.
We buyers are a market power, after all, they want our money.
It would also be a unique selling point for the forum if something like this were offered here.
Looks like a larve of some kind. If you have them you should have adults and see plant or root damage.
Was thinking about it and will put in mason jar to see what they become. Assuming fruit flies.
Confirmed by stunning one of the fliers, that it is common fruit fly, but it is doing damage to plants from larva.
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They will use the plants to get a drink during dry times. It's best to get rid of them if possible.
House is 40% humidity. Put apple cider vinegar dish, for fliers. Going to tissue culture them, so bleach will kill anything.
big orno
Active member
Hello everybody
Happy new year
Please any idea of what is happening with some of my plants ?
They are in veg. Light is led. I gave them bio-bizz rootbooster half the dose but I don't think it's this the problem
Before they were under neon light. Since I change them light from neon to led, they stoped growing and are burning like this
Last info : light are LM301B with 730nm LEDs. They are at 75% potency. Distance from plant to led is 1m
Thank you
All the best everybody
Happy new year
Please any idea of what is happening with some of my plants ?
They are in veg. Light is led. I gave them bio-bizz rootbooster half the dose but I don't think it's this the problem
Before they were under neon light. Since I change them light from neon to led, they stoped growing and are burning like this
Last info : light are LM301B with 730nm LEDs. They are at 75% potency. Distance from plant to led is 1m
Thank you
All the best everybody
Attachments
acespicoli
Well-known member
Do you have drainage holes in the bottoms? What is the water and dry schedule,
they need to go bone dry then water again.
they need to go bone dry then water again.
acespicoli
Well-known member
Fix for fungus gnats is two inches of playsand on top of dirt to remain dry, diatom earth DE is effective, predator nematodes, yellow stickys, h202 in the root zone, pimethrins
I recently was fortunate to come upon a greenhouse insect fogger bomb in my IPM research
treatment varies based on plant cycle veg or flower mild or severe infestation
When I first saw the picture I thought white flies
Another new one is winged root aphids luckily some problems youll never encounter
based on enviroment or demographic...
Those are some nice pictures what did you use for them ?
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big orno
Active member
Hello everybody
I put a cup of water per plant when I see soil drying at superficie
Yes there is a drainage to let the water go
Big thank you in all cases
You think is too much water ?Do you have drainage holes in the bottoms? What is the water and dry schedule,
they need to go bone dry then water again.
I put a cup of water per plant when I see soil drying at superficie
Yes there is a drainage to let the water go
Big thank you in all cases
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acespicoli
Well-known member
Ah yes I would humbly suggest watering when you expect the bottom is dry.
I prefer watering in a tray on the bottom and allowing the water to wick upwards from the dish.
Alternatively you could dig your finger in from the surface and water when its dry index finger deep.
Also when you observe a drought wilt on the leaves, excess moisture will cause nutrient lockout.
Its a thing we all have done in the past,
we overwater
we over fertilize
with the idea more is better...
Outside there will naturally be wet and dry cycles between rains and the plants surviving sever droughts
This dry cycle helps to prevent harmful fungus and molds as well as fungus gnats
Role of Soil Bacteria
Microbes in the soil are directly tied to nutrient recycling especially carbon, nitrogen, phosphorus and sulfur. Bacteria are a major class of microorganisms that keep soils healthy and productive. Bacteria Characteristics Figure 1: Close up view of a ciliate (protozoa)...
ohioline.osu.edu
1) Aerobic bacteria use the oxidation process to harvest energy while anaerobic bacteria use fermentation. 2) Aerobic bacteria are always found in the presence of oxygen while anaerobic bacteria can be found in low oxygen or no oxygen condition.
Many pathogenic bacteria prefer anaerobic soil conditions and are known to outcompete or kill off aerobic bacteria in the soil.
If you try and it works out show us the improved plants please
>Best>ibes
Get all the straw out of your grow and clean your garden up as clean as you can.
laszlokovacs
Well-known member
What the hell is going on with these sprouts? I think the soil's got some issues but im kind of lost here...
Soil is a mix of vigoro potting soil, native soil and a bit of added coco coir. I didnt buffer the coco but its maybe 20% of the mix so I dont think thats the problem. I started tomatoes last year in pure native soil cut with 20% perlite and they grew amazingly and thrived. Vigoro soil seems to suck but I already have 2ft of growth on some fruit tree grafts that I potted in the same soil a few weeks ago. Never had issues like this before.
Seeds popped over 2 weeks ago theyve been doing terribly. They yellowed immediately, are super lime green and chlorotic, brown/yellow dead spots and discolorations on leaves. Some look worse than others but these really should be way further along and everyone knows the cotyledons contain enough food for a few weeks, these are getting screwed instantly. There are tons of parasol mushrooms that sprout in this soil, everyone says thats a good sign, Idk but i doubt it would be doing this.
First they were pale so I thought I'd hit them with a light fertilzer high N about a week ago. Nothing, ok so i've given them some calmag P/K thinking maybe low P. Have given every pot 2oz of EWC a few days ago. Some are better but everything is decidely off for all the plants. I have seeds started in old recycled miracle grow soil the same batch of seeds and same time and they are completley fine and theyre in tiny 6 cells.
Opinions please:
These things are way too pale and stunted for 2 weeks+. There wasnt even really enough time for me to screw these up they just popped up like this.
Heres a side by side. same exact seeds i made last year. The ones in the 6 cell dried out a bunch of times cause of neglect so that explains the slight yellowing. But you can clearly see these are in completely different leagues despite being in miniscule plugs whereas the chlorotic ones have tons of space to stretch their legs. Not even the best ones in this soil mix approach theforest green of the seeds in recycled miracle gro.
Soil is a mix of vigoro potting soil, native soil and a bit of added coco coir. I didnt buffer the coco but its maybe 20% of the mix so I dont think thats the problem. I started tomatoes last year in pure native soil cut with 20% perlite and they grew amazingly and thrived. Vigoro soil seems to suck but I already have 2ft of growth on some fruit tree grafts that I potted in the same soil a few weeks ago. Never had issues like this before.
Seeds popped over 2 weeks ago theyve been doing terribly. They yellowed immediately, are super lime green and chlorotic, brown/yellow dead spots and discolorations on leaves. Some look worse than others but these really should be way further along and everyone knows the cotyledons contain enough food for a few weeks, these are getting screwed instantly. There are tons of parasol mushrooms that sprout in this soil, everyone says thats a good sign, Idk but i doubt it would be doing this.
First they were pale so I thought I'd hit them with a light fertilzer high N about a week ago. Nothing, ok so i've given them some calmag P/K thinking maybe low P. Have given every pot 2oz of EWC a few days ago. Some are better but everything is decidely off for all the plants. I have seeds started in old recycled miracle grow soil the same batch of seeds and same time and they are completley fine and theyre in tiny 6 cells.
Opinions please:
These things are way too pale and stunted for 2 weeks+. There wasnt even really enough time for me to screw these up they just popped up like this.
Heres a side by side. same exact seeds i made last year. The ones in the 6 cell dried out a bunch of times cause of neglect so that explains the slight yellowing. But you can clearly see these are in completely different leagues despite being in miniscule plugs whereas the chlorotic ones have tons of space to stretch their legs. Not even the best ones in this soil mix approach theforest green of the seeds in recycled miracle gro.
It looks like you are using a substrate with a lot of wood in it. I don't like using any kind of wood in a germination mix. There are two reasons I don't use it in a seed sprouting mix. One is moisture retention, it has too much drainage and doesn't hold water, and two the wood ties up the available nitrogen. In order for any wood to naturally break down it needs nitrogen. So it ties up the nitrogen and starves the seedlings.
Also if there is less than 100 to 120 ppm in the beginning water your pH meter can give false readings. pH meters work using conductivity and if there are not enough particles in the water the meter can give false readings.
Conductivity is a measure of a solution's ability to conduct electricity. Since electricity needs charged particles in order to flow, there is generally a positive relationship between the concentration of ions and the ability of a solution to conduct electricity. Google
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laszlokovacs
Well-known member
Hi Creeperpark. Thanks for your input. This is certainly a possibility, can I ask what you mean by "looks like"? I covered the potting mix with worm castings so I dont think the base mix is visible, so I ask if its the seedling appearance or pot surface that makes you ask this. Yes I love woodchip mulches outdoors but the extra N must always be accounted for! Cheap potting mix often has lots of wood and I've gotten some whoppers in miraclegrow bags but I have never seen plants that refuse to grow like this.
I think between the EWC, blue chem fert, calmag + P/K fert something improved them but time will tell. I never fed over 800ppm anything but still this is all an insane amount of nutrition just to try to get seeds growing. I dont ph soil really cuz I usually have no issues, I cant imagine pH issues in this stuff as I have few stone fruits in bgger pots that are doing fine.
PoweredByLove
Most Loved
Well unless you actually check the ph you'll never know. But based on how those seedling literally did not do any growing since they came above the ground. I think you have a ph issue.
You shouldn't still be on that initial set of leaves and the plant be all yellow. Ph is not only off somehow you have negative food. The cotyledons should be able to get you to 2 nodes unless something is very wrong.
You can keep insisting those fucked up plants are ok and that's not the problem. But me I would do a slurry test on that wood chip Soufflé you call a growing medium.
Slurry test is when you mix equal part distilled water and your medium and let it soak for about 5 minutes. Take the water and test it. That's the ph your plants are sitting in.
Just in case you don't know... and I don't feel like coming back.
You shouldn't still be on that initial set of leaves and the plant be all yellow. Ph is not only off somehow you have negative food. The cotyledons should be able to get you to 2 nodes unless something is very wrong.
You can keep insisting those fucked up plants are ok and that's not the problem. But me I would do a slurry test on that wood chip Soufflé you call a growing medium.
Slurry test is when you mix equal part distilled water and your medium and let it soak for about 5 minutes. Take the water and test it. That's the ph your plants are sitting in.
Just in case you don't know... and I don't feel like coming back.
