Module Efficiency: | >3 µmol/J |
System Efficiency: | 2.7 µmol/J |
Secondary Optics: | Yes |
Beam Angle: | 90-112° (unsymmetric characteristics) |
LM 90: | 90,000 hours |
Emission Wavelength: | 400-780nm |
Coverage | 5’x5’ |
Power Consumption | 2 x 340W |
PPF | 1830 µmol/s |
Coverage | 5’x5’ |
Power Consumption | 3 x 340W |
PPF | 2745 µmol/s |
San light achieves very good on cannopy lightlevels with their offerings considering the drivers and watts they use.
Thanks will check it out, im digging for the best info to share so thats handy!Their blog is also very interesting.
Here about uv testings
https://www.sanlight.com/news/einfluss-von-uv-licht-auf-cannabis/
Product | Manufacturer | LED-series | Color | CCT | CRI | Luminous intensity typ. | Luminous efficiency typ. | Luminous flux typ. |
STW9C12C-E10000IZ/3A Mid-Power LED | SMD | 3030 C E1 | 6500 K | CRI >90 | Seoul Semiconductor | 3030C | Warm White | 6500 K | 90 | 10504 mcd | 188 lm/W | 33 lm |
STW9C12C-E10000IZ/3B Mid-Power LED | SMD | 3030 C E1 | 5700 K | CRI >90 | Seoul Semiconductor | 3030C | Warm White | 5700 K | 90 | 10504 mcd | 188 lm/W | 33 lm |
STW9C12C-E10000IZ/3C Mid-Power LED | SMD | 3030 C E1 | 5000 K | CRI >90 | Seoul Semiconductor | 3030C | Cool White | 5000 K | 90 | 10504 mcd | 188 lm/W | 33 lm |
STW9C12C-E10000IZ/3E Mid-Power LED | SMD | 3030 C E1 | 4000 K | CRI >90 | Seoul Semiconductor | 3030C | Natural White | 4000 K | 90 | 10186 mcd | 182 lm/W | 32 lm |
STW9C12C-E10000IZ/3F Mid-Power LED | SMD | 3030 C E1 | 3500 K | CRI >90 | Seoul Semiconductor | 3030C | Warm White | 3500 K | 90 | 9868 mcd | 177 lm/W | 31 lm |
STW9C12C-E10000IZ/3G Mid-Power LED | SMD | 3030 C E1 | 3000 K | CRI >90 | Seoul Semiconductor | 3030C | Warm White | 3000 K | 90 | 9868 mcd | 177 lm/W | 31 lm |
STW9C12C-E10000IZ/3H Mid-Power LED | SMD | 3030 C E1 | 2700 K | CRI >90 | Seoul Semiconductor | 3030C | Warm White | 2700 K | 90 | 9231 mcd | 165 lm/W | 29 lm |
STW9C12C-E10000IZ/3K Mid-Power LED | SMD | 3030 C E1 | 2200 K | CRI >90 | Seoul Semiconductor | 3030C | Warm White | 2200 K | 90 | 8594 mcd | 154 lm/W | 27 lm |
STW9C12C-E200C0IZP/3B Mid-Power LED | SMD | 3030 C NPR| 5700 K | CRI >90 | Seoul Semiconductor | 3030C | Warm White | 5700 K | 90 | 10504 mcd | 188 lm/W | 33 lm |
I think 3 weeks is adequate to turn most plants around. From weak, to flower worthy. 2 weeks really, but the third week could be useful. A full month is nice, but with many of us using our flower space (with it's space and better lighting) to turn them around, this time turning them around, could be costly.The transition stage is somewhat overlooked as you say. What to do there dependa on the full system and genetics of cultivar. Stretchy plants and plants that stretch less should have a slightly different treatment in this stage. The way we do it at ours is that veg is long and weak intensity, with intensity rising in final month of veg. Once in flowerroom/transition stage its medium to low; not giving all the light it can take in temransotion phase to somewhat limit stretch and retain compactness and then in midflower give it all the light it can handle without too much white tops, the pullback a little in the last weeks in coordination with flush. Too much light in transition and we get too large plants and fluffier buds. Main punch of light from weeks 3-4 to 5-7 depending on flower cycles length (7 to 9 weeks total).
Also important to note that there are also possibly (hopefully!) some spectrum change between veg and full flower, adapting to those take time aswell. Our way of dealing with this, in a plant that has a decent amount of growth in transition: only leave growth tips when flipping to flower. That means that almost all new leaves the plant use are brand new, grown under your flowering spectrum so they are adapted to both spectrum and intensity.
If growing in low light veg another thing important is to have one eye on your veg spectrum: low light conditions favour the plant to produce one chlorophyll (cant remember if it was a or b, but i thinknit was b) in veg over the other. You can put in some thought and custom your veg spectrum accordingly.
BOG BUSHY OLD GROWERI think 3 weeks is adequate to turn most plants around. From weak, to flower worthy. 2 weeks really, but the third week could be useful. A full month is nice, but with many of us using our flower space (with it's space and better lighting) to turn them around, this time turning them around, could be costly.
However it is done, it's not something to ignore.
I like the full steam ahead approach. I wouldn't want to use lower light to limit that transition growth. Limiting growth at this time, has never been good for me. The annoying stretch is hard to plan for, but I aim to keep that time using my bloom space to veg in, to a minimum. Relying on the transition after 12/12 to finish the veg. It is a bit more intensive though, powering through the transition, catering with rapid growth spurts. It's never a great idea to have plants in holding though. Even though it may be a necessity. The bonsai trade shows us that holding a plant back, produces offspring that can take generations to recover. It's an extreme example, but shows the path plants will take, to adapt to their environment. Then the cautionary approach they take to growing too big afterwards.
I think transition is a necessary evil. The type of growth during this time, being different to what we see in veg. Plant response to P might be the biggest change. Where it strongly influences plant size during transition.
Top 30 | |||
strain | breeder | visits | flower days |
Kalashnikova | Green House Seeds | 2652579 | 56 |
Automatic AK47 | Lowlife Seeds | 1769219 | 56 |
AK47 | Serious Seeds | 711372 | 58 |
The Church | Green House Seeds | 1495549 | 63 |
Jack Herer | Sensi Seeds | 563593 | 60 |
Super Lemon Haze | Green House Seeds | 528471 | 67 |
L.S.D. | Barneys Farm | 505930 | 63 |
Super Silver Haze | Green House Seeds | 502263 | 74 |
Super Skunk | Sensi Seeds | 491827 | 48 |
White Russian | Serious Seeds | 463309 | 58 |
Skunk #1 | Sensi Seeds | 448325 | 48 |
Chronic | Serious Seeds | 412055 | 60 |
Northern Lights | Sensi Seeds | 399500 | 48 |
Bubble Gum | Serious Seeds | 371152 | 60 |
Big Bud | Sensi Seeds | 362698 | 58 |
Black Domina | Sensi Seeds | 354746 | 50 |
Pineapple Chunk | Barneys Farm | 344638 | 58 |
Euforia | Dutch Passion | 337042 | 49 |
NYC Diesel | Soma Seeds | 334975 | 77 |
Critical Kush | Barneys Farm | 333554 | 58 |
Blue Cheese | Barneys Farm | 316210 | 60 |
Durban Poison | Dutch Passion | 315471 | 60 |
Chemdog | Unknown or Legendary | 312774 | 70 |
Amnesia Haze | Soma Seeds | 307780 | 84 |
Sensi Star | Paradise Seeds | 305635 | 60 |
Power Plant | Dutch Passion | 298697 | 56 |
OG Kush | Clone Only Strains | 302846 | 70 |
Vanilla Kush | Barneys Farm | 294806 | 63 |
Original Glue | GG Genetics | 296007 | 67 |
Tangerine Dream | Barneys Farm | 280306 | 70 |
There's a few of you here who have the commercial / medical production experienceLocal glasshouses use Phillips , the warranty and service are worth the extra cost to them.
They used their HPS systems already and got a good deal .
Philips seems to keep their branding out of site on the cannabis scene. It was interesting to watch Fluence get bought by Osram, then Philips. Philips buying a company that uses the competitions parts.
I'm sure that changed quite quickly, without any 'boat rocking' fanfare.
Philips were already established under another badge, all 4 brands mentioned, do a lot of 'hands on' reasearch. Out in the field, and in their own grow chambers. It's well worth looking at the lights they try and sell us. Even if just for clues.
Spoiler: They like R60. White light, with 40% of the output, shared between Blue and Green. 60% red (R60) that's usually reached by adding 660s to a warmer white.
@acespicoli
I like a good perpetual grow to look at. It's usually perpetual work though. I'm having time off from being a good grower, but did have a 7 week thing going on. After two years, I hadn't slipped a day. I had actually got ahead by 2.
That wasn't perpetual, it was the rota. Plants gave the next cuttings, as they themselves were put into bloom. That gives the cuttings as long as it takes to bloom, to be ready to take their mums place. In that case, 7 weeks. 7 weeks is nice with fairly typical spacing. It's 3 weeks to root. Even if you can root faster, give it three to widen the gap between the best and worst one's (keeping the best 50% only). After that 3 weeks rooting, 4 weeks veg can produce. Maybe the first 2 weeks they do little, but the next two, it's all good for 4-5 plants per meter.
8 weeks plants are not so forgiving. That 5th week of veg, is just too long. Even with hard pruning, you get plants capable of great height. So more training work is created, which means more reordering of the main heads.
If you have 12 week flowering plants, You can think about taking your cuttings a week before flipping. The mum should be well, at that point. This is 13 weeks before you need them. So you have 6 weeks to get some more mums up.
I like the 7 or 8 week rota myself. I don't want to do every job in the hotel, all at the same time. I like to take my cuts, then have a day riding the lift. Next day I might carry some bags. Day after, clean some tubs. Then ride the lift again. Only really getting busy, when the old girls have to go. So you can clean the beds, before the new girls arrive.
New seeds are started about 3 days before taking any cutting they are to live with. At about 3 weeks of veg (after 3 rooting), your best cuts and your new seed, should be equals. A week later, and seed plants should be able to give up some cuts, and go into bloom with the batch of cuts it grew up with. This ties in new seed plant trials, with the running rota, just nice. Doing seeds at any other time, can feel like I took another crop on. Mixing it its own food, and giving it it's own potting days. Making it space, that I don't want to. For no actual gain, as it's eventual rota was on the calender, before it was even born. There is no free will in this matrix. You are not special. Don't be so demanding.
Sorry. I might be having issues lol