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LED Growers Unite, Who makes the BEST LED and how long has it lasted ? Cast Your Vote!!!

in Who makes the BEST LED ???


  • Total voters
    85

kro-magnon

Well-known member
Veteran
I have a 1,4 square meter flo space and a O,6 square meter veg, that's not a tent in flower just the frame of a tent in a small room. I'd like to increase my yield with the 10 weeker strains I grow, I know it's possible if I can make my environment more friendly for my plants and dialing the feedings also could improve my results. I grow with LED since beginning of 23 only so I have still some improvements to make to get 100% from my light, I know it can produce over 1,5g/w and I'm not yet there. I'm happy with the quality of the buds coming from my grows so far and I don't want to change the genetics because I love the high and taste I got.
I will soon pop some new seeds made with a New Caledonian male who should be in the 10/12 weeks max, it's possible with this type of plants to get massive yield if everything run smoothly, I'll see what I can get from them.
I voted for Lumatek because my light from this brand is better than the Mars Hydro I have in veg but it's knid of a vote by default, I have only used 2 brands so far. I want to replace the Mars hydro but I don't know what to buy for the job they do, maybe the Secret Jardin 80w in the mother/clone space and 1 Migro 125w in a separate veg space.
The Lumatek I have is running since January 2023 and it should last 5 years, so far 20 months of constant use without problem; let's hope it stays this way. I don't know what are the signs of a degrading LED light? Certainly a huge drop in the yield .
 
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phatkidgenetics

Active member
i only have budget 100-150w lights i got from amazon, and i've built my own from off the shelf leds. out of my lights i own, the best one is the viparspectra 1500. i have 2 spiderfarmer 1000s, and one clone spiderfarmer 1000 knockoff, and a couple really crappy budget ones, and the viparspectra is way better than my spiderfarmers in terms of build quality, heat sink, light output, etc.
as far as i can tell the viparspectra 1500 is the best you can get for under 100 bucks and it doesnt feel cheap at all.
 

PadawanWarrior

Well-known member
Not mentioned : HLG Horticulture Lighting Group one of the top "makers" of LED in the USA they have one of the highest PPFD for plant cultivation
I have a bunch of HLG lights and I've had no issues. Some have ran at least 12/12 for the last 5 years. The 5000k V1's are awesome lights for vegging and the Rspec's for flower. But I wouldn't say they are best. I'd take almost any of the ones from the list. I'm just sketchy on cheaper lights. I've seen lots of bad connections on some of them.
 
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Rocket Soul

Well-known member
I have a bunch of HLG lights and I've had no issues. Some have ran at least 12/12 for the last 5 years. The 5000k V1's are awesome lights for vegging and the Rspec's for flower. But I wouldn't say they are best. I'd take almost any of the ones from the list. I'm just sketchy on cheaper lights. I've seen lots of bad connections on some of them.
Connections seems to be the first thing to skimp on with cheapo lights, especially quick connectors tend to be bad quality; slightly bad fit and they start arching and melting.
 

Ca++

Well-known member
Fluence.
No other brand is even at the same party. It's a meal for one. We can buy the clones though.

As we enter the phase where lights are at the end of their useful lives, parts availability is going to become a thing. Not everyone is interested, but some of us will want to extend the life of our fleet. Moving old bloom lights over cutting racks, and swaping broken boards and drivers about. Changing the weathered cabling/plugs. Any lights using proprietry tech will start to weigh on peoples minds, as lights become irrepairable. This means a slightly more DIY approach to construction, can be a real bonus. This is why I use the QB lights. Every spare is available, from a number of global sources.

I may treat myself to a fluence one day. I really should. It's probably disposeable kit though, once that 12 month warranty passes. Making a quick fix while in service, less likely.
 

PadawanWarrior

Well-known member
Fluence.
No other brand is even at the same party. It's a meal for one. We can buy the clones though.

As we enter the phase where lights are at the end of their useful lives, parts availability is going to become a thing. Not everyone is interested, but some of us will want to extend the life of our fleet. Moving old bloom lights over cutting racks, and swaping broken boards and drivers about. Changing the weathered cabling/plugs. Any lights using proprietry tech will start to weigh on peoples minds, as lights become irrepairable. This means a slightly more DIY approach to construction, can be a real bonus. This is why I use the QB lights. Every spare is available, from a number of global sources.

I may treat myself to a fluence one day. I really should. It's probably disposeable kit though, once that 12 month warranty passes. Making a quick fix while in service, less likely.
I recently called HLG and the lady ended up going up in the attic to see what older QB's they had. I ended up ordering a bunch of discontinued boards. All for $15 a piece. Those guys kick ass for customer service. That's another huge plus of HLG. I was looking for more 5000k V1's and original Rspec's and got both plus some older V1 3000k and 4000k boards.
 

Rocket Soul

Well-known member
I recently called HLG and the lady ended up going up in the attic to see what older QB's they had. I ended up ordering a bunch of discontinued boards. All for $15 a piece. Those guys kick ass for customer service. That's another huge plus of HLG. I was looking for more 5000k V1's and original Rspec's and got both plus some older V1 3000k and 4000k boards

Fluence.
No other brand is even at the same party. It's a meal for one. We can buy the clones though.

As we enter the phase where lights are at the end of their useful lives, parts availability is going to become a thing. Not everyone is interested, but some of us will want to extend the life of our fleet. Moving old bloom lights over cutting racks, and swaping broken boards and drivers about. Changing the weathered cabling/plugs. Any lights using proprietry tech will start to weigh on peoples minds, as lights become irrepairable. This means a slightly more DIY approach to construction, can be a real bonus. This is why I use the QB lights. Every spare is available, from a number of global sources.

I may treat myself to a fluence one day. I really should. It's probably disposeable kit though, once that 12 month warranty passes. Making a quick fix while in service, less likely.
I agree completely, once you have gotten familiar with drivers, wagos and single boards, its hard for any light to beat that: a light made for Your space, that you can service yourself and repurpose as you please or need be.
New boards, if you already have sinks and drivers, is not very costly. With 15$ boards you can even see them as disposables; remember the time when peeps would use a bulb for one run only, those bulbs were similar price.
 

kro-magnon

Well-known member
Veteran
I agree completely, once you have gotten familiar with drivers, wagos and single boards, its hard for any light to beat that: a light made for Your space, that you can service yourself and repurpose as you please or need be.
New boards, if you already have sinks and drivers, is not very costly. With 15$ boards you can even see them as disposables; remember the time when peeps would use a bulb for one run only, those bulbs were similar price.
I've never seen people around me changing light their light after only one grow but I've recently talked to someone who think that's a necessity, that's crazy.
I'd like to know how to repair my LED bars in case some diodes stop working after years but I really don't know if it's easily doable with the light I have.
What are the signs of aging LED?
Fluence, I don't know this brand, I'll watch their products. Ok it's the Spider brand, I think this brand is not sold in the EU.
 
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Rocket Soul

Well-known member
I've never seen people around me changing light their light after only one grow but I've recently talked to someone who think that's a necessity, that's crazy.
I'd like to know how to repair my LED bars in case some diodes stop working after years but I really don't know if it's easily doable with the light I have.
What are the signs of aging LED?
Fluence, I don't know this brand, I'll watch their products. Ok it's the Spider brand, I think this brand is not sold in the EU.
Theres a process of de soldering broken leds and replacing them but youd need equipment for it and the pcb being so large makes it somewhat expensive and troublesome.
If youre buying the pcbs loose; as in DIY and not a finished light then you can just buy a couple of spares, for replacing broken strips.
 

Ca++

Well-known member
It's great to see HLG selling boards at China prices. In the UK, I'm pretty much buying everything from China, and the disposable nature of the boards is quite real to me. I have already swapped my boards at around 3 years, of the realistic 7 year service life of a meanwell driver. That seemed to me, to be the logical time, having spent time tapping my calculator, and looking at power bills. These calculations are not foreign to me, having worked in lighting maintenance, before the mass LED adoption.
I run a 600 for 2 years, as I use the Philips CG lamps. They are designed not to fade over 5 or 6 years, but instead hold strong for a couple, then just give up. A sprinter of a lamp for growing, not a long distance runner for a sports field.

Fluence are not spider (spider farmer). They do have a range called spydr though. They were in the states, then Osram bought them, then Philips. These are guys lighting up acres, where people are running about with jet washes, and doing demanding trials. Any of which, are a good read, if you can find them. They kinda used this brand to not directly associate themselves with cannabis. While at the same time, sending out their own growing experts to work across many facilities, making sure the grower got exactly what mattered from them. The biggest lighting companies in the world we are speaking of. Doing their bit in the cannabis market. Chucking money at projects, to stay world leaders. It's just not something anyone else can compaire with. However, they didn't market them to forum dwellers. They sent out reps, to farms. They are for commercial growers, so it's easy for us to miss them.
Today, they have a huge manufacting ability, but demand has plateaued. New grows are not popping up at a high rate, so they have to lower prices. Us with shallow pockets, are finding this gear within reach.
The main HQ is still in Texas, where the brand started. The EU HQ is in Rotterdam.
Select hydroshops do have them, but the usual business model is to get in their design team and scientists, to manage your order. I don't actually know of an EU shop, but using a US IP I see shops all over the states with them.
 

Ca++

Well-known member
Theres a process of de soldering broken leds and replacing them but youd need equipment for it and the pcb being so large makes it somewhat expensive and troublesome.
If youre buying the pcbs loose; as in DIY and not a finished light then you can just buy a couple of spares, for replacing broken strips.
I think I'm drawing a line at swapping individual LED's that measure around 3mm. I can manage it with a magnifying glass, and a soldering iron. It looks a bit like a club you are trying to solder with though. You wouldn't want to be doing it by choice. Perhaps if one was just loose I might offer it some heat, but you have to pin them down so as not to wipe them off the board. Then you have to be very quick, as they just don't want to be so hot, for very long. It's the wrong kit really. It's possible, but not a reliable solution. It pains me to say it, but a board is a part, not a bunch of parts.
 

acespicoli

Well-known member
I think I'm drawing a line at swapping individual LED's that measure around 3mm. I can manage it with a magnifying glass, and a soldering iron. It looks a bit like a club you are trying to solder with though. You wouldn't want to be doing it by choice. Perhaps if one was just loose I might offer it some heat, but you have to pin them down so as not to wipe them off the board. Then you have to be very quick, as they just don't want to be so hot, for very long. It's the wrong kit really. It's possible, but not a reliable solution. It pains me to say it, but a board is a part, not a bunch of parts.
This is really my dilemma on LED lights, reliability... failing due to overheating in summer maybe :thinking:
With a max working temp of 120 degrees before failure



LED Overheating – Causes and Fixes​

18 September 2017
EST. READING TIME: 4 MINUTES
LED Selection, Thermal Management

LED component manufacturers have revolutionised the lighting industry, offering energy efficiency, durability, and versatility for various applications. However, LED overheating remains a significant concern for manufacturers and users alike. Overheating leads to reduced LED performance, decreased lifespan, and in some cases, even safety hazards.
AdobeStock_335764185-300x200.jpeg

What Causes LED Overheating?​

High-power lighting-class LEDs run at impressively high temperatures. But there’s a limit to how much power LEDs can handle, and it is essential that adequate heatsinking is provided to prevent overheating.
LED overheating has several causes, ranging from design flaws to environmental factors. One of the most common causes is poor LED thermal management, where the heat generated by the LED is not dissipated efficiently. This can happen due to inadequate heat sinks, insufficient ventilation, or using the wrong materials.
Another potential cause is electrical current issues, such as overdriving the LED, which can generate excess heat. Also, a well-designed LED luminaire can be overheated by installing in an environment for which it was not designed.
Ambient temperature plays a role in LED overheating, and high temperatures can cause LED components to fail. Other environmental factors, such as humidity and dust accumulation, can also contribute to overheating by reducing the effectiveness of heat sinks and ventilation.
Poor design and manufacturing processes can also lead to overheating, as defective components or faulty circuit designs can create excess heat or reduce the LED's ability to dissipate heat effectively. Overall, it is essential to identify the root cause of LED overheating, to implement the appropriate solutions and prevent future issues.

What Damage Does Overheating Cause?​

LED Overheating

LED overheating can cause significant damage to both the LED and surrounding luminaire and create detrimental results.

Reduced Component Lifespan​

The most significant impact overheating has on LEDs is to reduce their lifespan dramatically. Excessive heat causes thermal stress on the LED's components, such as the solder joints and circuit boards, leading to early failure. This results in costly repairs and replacements for end users.
Overheating may eventually cause damage to the surrounding luminaire, and excess heat can cause additional damage, such as warping and even cracking of the housing and other components. In addition, overheating can sometimes lead to fire hazards, particularly if the luminaire's electrical components are damaged or compromised.

Discolouration Over Time​

Overheating can cause a significant change in LED colours, particularly for white LEDs. White LEDs are typically created using blue LED chips and a phosphor coating that converts blue light into white light. When overheating, the phosphor layer degrades, leading to a shift in the colour temperature of the LED.
This shift in colour temperature will have significant implications for the aesthetics of lighting applications, particularly those where consistent colour temperature is critical, such as in retail, museum settings or hospitality LED lighting. In some cases, overheating causes a significant change in LED colour, leading to a shift from white light to a different colour altogether. This is particularly damaging for applications where colour accuracy is essential, such as in photography, art installations or road safety lighting.

Impact Light Output​

Lumen output (or lumen maintenance) is a term used to describe the gradual reduction of a light source's brightness over time. LED overheating significantly impacts lumen maintenance, gradually reducing the LED's overall brightness and efficiency.
When an LED overheats, it causes thermal stress on the LED's components, including the phosphor layer, which is responsible for converting blue LED light into white light. Over time, the phosphor layer breaks down due to high temperatures, significantly reducing lumen output.
Overheating may cause custom LED drivers and other electrical components to degrade, reducing the LED's overall efficiency and light output. This reduction in lumen output has significant negative implications for lighting applications, particularly in commercial LED lighting systems or industrial settings where consistent lighting levels are critical, resulting in increased maintenance

How Can You Prevent LED Overheating?​

Here’s a list of general advice that will ensure the longevity of your LEDs:
  • Acquire a detailed understanding of electronics cooling and a thorough knowledge of the ancillary materials in your luminaire design.

  • You need to educate and support customers on the causes of overheating and the proper application of their luminaires, especially those new to LED lighting.

  • You must observe and follow the LED manufacturer’s specifications and seek applications advice relevant to applying LED cooling.

  • Test your products! Not just in a workshop but in the worst-case environment you can think of. Ensure you measure LED solder point temperatures and understand the science behind your actions.
Forge_General-120-300x200.jpg

How Does Great LED Heatsink Design Prevent Overheating?​

At Forge, we have implemented many design strategies to prevent LED overheating, including well-designed LED thermal management.
Our expert engineers use advanced computer modelling and simulation tools to optimise the LED lighting systems they create for efficient heat dissipation, ensuring that heat generated by the LED is quickly and effectively removed.
We use the highest-quality materials for our heatsinks, such as aluminium, which has excellent thermal conductivity. This allows for effective heat transfer from the LED to the surrounding environment. By effectively managing heat through a great LED heatsink design, the LED will operate safely and efficiently, maintaining optimal performance and longevity. Contact us to discuss your application and discover how we ensure it resists overheating.
 

acespicoli

Well-known member
If your room area hits mid 90sF in the summer what is your fixtures heatsink temperature?
screenshot-www_amazon_com-2024_09_16-04_02_17.png

Will try to gather some of the popular diodes failure thresholds and add them here
screenshot-www_mouser_com-2024_09_16-04_40_54.png

The actual failure is usually a cheap plug connection or soldering ...
Heating and cooling such as bending a metal wire or paper clip until it snaps....

Japan is manufacturing some quality LED
Some companies that make horticultural LED lights in Japan include:
  • SunBlaster Lighting
    Uses high output LED lights from a prominent Japanese manufacturer. SunBlaster also uses self-cooling technology in their LED strip lights.

  • NICHIA CORPORATION
    Makes Hortisolis™ lighting, which is designed for horticulture and provides an ideal spectrum for the purpose.
Found some LED highbay for 20$USD T5 LED tubes 6 Bulb and the led driver tubes run 4-15$ USD
This offers a economical quick switch for damaged parts, not spending 1000$ on a light to have it start failing
This has to be the single downside to LED, some companies are offering replaceable light rails 🤷‍♂️
I would place that high on my selection criteria buy from a company that offers repair parts

Or DIY as others have said if thats a viable option for your expertise
Modular tubes/boards may be the future of my LED grows Plug and Play add as many as you like.
Im in the market for a new LED fixture as we speak, im still not sure which one :thinking:
As you can imagine im going to over think this purchase
Best>>> :huggg:

screenshot-www_sunblasterlighting_com-2024_09_16-04_10_38.png

Plug and Play
as well as modular kits are a very attractive option

The simplicity of t5 or t8 clear tubes direct wire 120-277V makes me think easy DIY
Only issue is intensity, back to what @Ca++ was saying light strips/boards is great option
as it a single modular piece
screenshot-www_ledsupply_com-2024_09_16-04_17_10.png


Technical Requirements for LED-based Horticultural Lighting V3.0
Released November 30, 2022 ǀ Revised May 13, 2024


PS: Still adding and trying to gather manufacturer specs for the first post spreadsheet
Not all manufacturers there are totally transparent about led and driver makes and models
Its taking some digging to get those blank areas on the sheets filled....
If you have some of those details helps appreciated #1
 
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Ca++

Well-known member
I find HLG the most concerning brand. This is their line-up, and viewed only in terms of heatsink efficiency, the question boarders on 'do they even have any'

You might need to visit amazon's $20 corner to find similar levels of care.


The previous link about approvals, is what allows this. There is no temperature or duration spec for the tests. Such info isn't given to us, when choosing lights. Ideally, we would have the light in a 28c room, and see what it does over an hour. What we shouldn't do, is have the light in a 21c room, and switch it on at the moment of testing. We certainly shouldn't hang it in a fridge, or blast it with a CO2 extinguisher. However, nothing says we can't. Nothing even says the light should be running at full power when the efficiency is measured.
All of this means it's easy to put some LEDs on a baking sheet, and test them quickly. Knowing in 2 years time, the colour will of shifted, and efficiency dropped from top tier to midrange standards.

Choosing lights is more about the engineering standards, than the quoted figures. It's getting the right parts, in a decent configuration. The numbers will then fall into place anyway. This is a difficult situation for most people though. Having to become a lighting geek, just to buy one light. This thread should at least point us to what other people chose to buy. Who hopefully read similar threads themselves.
 

Rocket Soul

Well-known member
I find HLG the most concerning brand. This is their line-up, and viewed only in terms of heatsink efficiency, the question boarders on 'do they even have any'

You might need to visit amazon's $20 corner to find similar levels of care.


The previous link about approvals, is what allows this. There is no temperature or duration spec for the tests. Such info isn't given to us, when choosing lights. Ideally, we would have the light in a 28c room, and see what it does over an hour. What we shouldn't do, is have the light in a 21c room, and switch it on at the moment of testing. We certainly shouldn't hang it in a fridge, or blast it with a CO2 extinguisher. However, nothing says we can't. Nothing even says the light should be running at full power when the efficiency is measured.
All of this means it's easy to put some LEDs on a baking sheet, and test them quickly. Knowing in 2 years time, the colour will of shifted, and efficiency dropped from top tier to midrange standards.

Choosing lights is more about the engineering standards, than the quoted figures. It's getting the right parts, in a decent configuration. The numbers will then fall into place anyway. This is a difficult situation for most people though. Having to become a lighting geek, just to buy one light. This thread should at least point us to what other people chose to buy. Who hopefully read similar threads themselves.
Checked and at least on some of the efficiency reports you can see it stated 25C ambient and 1 hour stabilization for temps.

Though no mention on case temps/geatsink temps
 

Ca++

Well-known member
Is that on the hlg site?
I just ran away when I saw the pictures. It's quite an eye opener, to see anybody being so open about the testing procedure. Still.. the fans in place, might not be the fans typically used in peoples grows. There is always an angle..
 

Rocket Soul

Well-known member
Is that on the hlg site?
I just ran away when I saw the pictures. It's quite an eye opener, to see anybody being so open about the testing procedure. Still.. the fans in place, might not be the fans typically used in peoples grows. There is always an angle..

Link to their diablo 750 tests, just underneath the first blurb on their web.

In general HLG is one of the best brands for testing as they actually provide details on their testers so that you can double check on them and always test system efficiency (boards plus driver) while most other will only provide you with a nice little number (many times based on their board efficiency which is 5-10% lower than real system efficiency). Pretty expensive though.

As for sinking ive not actually seen numbers on their thermals; seems like they go for the frame/sink approach.
 

acespicoli

Well-known member
As far as the heatsinks for LED grow lights, I have seen cooling...
  • passive
1726488483555.png
1726488504559.png

  • air fan cooled
1726488543013.png

  • liquid cooled

CoolPack® LED Top Light Greenhouse & Grow Room Water cooled​


The water cooled CoolPack® is a state-of-the-art LED grow light for use in both greenhouses as well as grow rooms.
In those lighted projects where the heat of passive LED grow lights becomes too much, a water cooled LED grow light can be the perfect outcome.
CoolPack® LED grow light

Why would you opt for a water cooled LED grow light over a passive cooled LED grow light​


First of all you have to understand that not all passive cooled LED grow lights perform identical.
A LED grow light with an efficiency of 2.4μmol/J produces average 50% of light and 50% of heat, while a grow light with an efficiency of 3.5μmol/J produces 73% of light and just 27% of heat.
A tradition HPS SON-T grow light produces 35% of light and 65% of heat, where more specific the majority of the heat goes to radiated heat.



With passive cooled or active fan cooled LED grow lights all the generated heat remains in the grow room.
In general with high efficiency LED grow light systems the relative low heat production has beneficial effects where the extra heat leads to more generative plant growth.
Still there are situations where the produced heat per square meter becomes too much to create a good plant balance, or where the grower wants to control the full climate in the room like for research purposes.
In these cases the water cooled CoolPack® delivers the perfect solution.
The generated heat is transported through a water piping system out of the lamp and out of the room, and after being chilled reinjected in the loop of grow lights.
Although the extra costs for piping and chilling the water, the CoolPack® also offers specific extra advantages over passive cooled LED grow lights:
  • Ultra-low LED temperatures lead to a long life time and low light decay over time.
  • LED temperatures.jpg
    Where most LED grow lights use simple cooling principles like a block of aluminum the heart of the CoolPack® is a sophisticated water cooling device.This technology guarantees you the best thermal management of the LEDs on the market.The light efficiency, the life time and the light decay (how fast or slow the light reduces over time) are all directly related to the LED temperature of the grow light.So with the CoolPack® which runs the internal LEDs as cold as possible, you as a customer obtain a grow light which lives longer, has a higher efficiency of light per watt and maintains his light at a higher light level over time.The CoolPack® comes with a life time of 75.000 hours L90 and a warranty of 10 years.


also seen some new led technology which the solder is supposed to be flexible for on/off cycles
1726488415717.png

There appears to be just the aluminum plate type for some of the HLG


It would be great to list some perfect choices for LED purchases
Personally I can say things I like, as far as "perfect"...
Still a thread in development, you have to pick what you like
So far Spider Farmer still has a lead in the poll 🤷‍♂️
San light as a close second especially depending on your locality

Its a shame more people dont know about
No vote and producing extraordinary results ... such is popularity and advertising leads the purchase
You know, so how do you rank the best whats the criteria ?

  1. cost ?
  2. spectrum/intensity production gram/watt ?
  3. light/watt efficiency how much does it cost to run ?
  4. warranty 3 years on led 5 on the driver ?
  5. availability of parts and ease of repair, manufacturer backed service and repair ?
What else should be in the criteria ?






How to fix flickering LED strip lights
LED light not working but has power
Why are 3 of my LED lights different colors
How to fix overloaded LED lights
Why are my LED lights flashing different colors
Why is only half of my LED strip lights working
Why is one strip of my LED lights a different color
Soldering techniques PDF

 

acespicoli

Well-known member
Water cooling and a ten year warranty

screenshot-www_horti-growlight_com-2024_09_16-08_37_55.png

Pretty crazy

CoolPack® LoB-holder-lens assembly steps
Performance

Performance​

  • Absolute market leading
    PPF 3.520µmol/s
  • Highest photon efficiency
    3.0µmol/J - 3.5µmol/J
  • 11 leading growth spectra
    with highest yields
  • Deepest canopy penetration rate
Modularity

Modularity​

  • Freedom in growth
    spectrum composition
  • Upgradable over time
  • Unique light distribution
    with TIR lenses adaptable
    to your canopy
Quality

Quality​

  • Extreme lifetime 75.000hrs - L90
  • 10 years warranty
  • Best thermal management
  • Full IP67 waterproof
CoolPack® LED Top Light
SPECIFICATIONS
Light SourceCoolGrow® I LED
PPFUp to 3.520 µmol/s
Input Power530W - 1067W spectrum depending
Efficacy3.0 µmol/J - 3.5 µmol/J
Input Voltage90-305 Vac or 249-528 Vac
Fixture DimensionsW103 x L680 x H142.09 (mm)
Weight8.000 gr
Thermal ManagementAdvanced water cooling
Dimming0 -10V, PWM, DALI, BLO Bluetooth, Synapse Wi-Fi or LAN
Light DistributionAdvanced TIR - 105˚, 130˚, 135˚/80˚ asymmetric
Lifetime75.000 hrs - L90B50
Power Factor>95%
Warranty10 years
 
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acespicoli

Well-known member
Besides the commercial options above, also of recent interest was home tent grows
screenshot-www_amazon_com-2024_09_16-10_00_35.png



started putting together a mock up plan with quantum boards
this is very similar to the plug and play off the shelf HLG offerings ?


About this item​

  • 2pcs/ pair 120W Samsung LM281b+ PCB Panel with 3000K+5000K+660nm+UV+IR
  • Input Voltage Range: 38~48V DC
  • Input Current: 900~2500mA, 2700mA Max.
  • White: LM281B+ 3000K(176pcs) and 5000K (72pcs) ,Red: Epistar 660nm 32pcs , UV: 4pcs, IR: 4pcs
  • Recommend Power Driver for 120W Grow light PCB board -
  • Meanwell HLG-120H-48 or XLG-150-H-AB
$57.65 DRIVER PRICE EACH



Technical Details​

Brand‎KQO
Color‎White
Material‎Aluminum
Style‎Modern
Light fixture form‎Island
Room Type‎储藏室
Indoor/Outdoor Usage‎Indoor
Power Source‎Corded Electric
Control Method‎Remote
Light Source Type‎LED
Number of Light Sources‎32
Voltage‎48 Volts
Light Color‎warm white, cool white, red
Included Components‎Light kit inlcuded
Embellishment‎Crystal
Lighting Method‎LED
Item Weight‎28.35 Grams
Number of Items‎2
Wattage‎120 watts
Controller Type‎Remote Control
Unit Count‎1 Count
Brightness‎12000 Lux
Mounting Type‎Ceiling Mount
Fixture Type‎Non Removable
Assembly Required‎No
Manufacturer‎KQO
UPC‎745672909434
Model Name‎grow light
Part Number‎KQO-QB1200DM-PCB
Item Weight‎1 ounces
Package Dimensions‎12.48 x 7.72 x 1.93 inches
Item model number‎KQO-QB1200DM-PCB
Plug Format‎A- US style
Batteries Included?‎No
Batteries Required?‎No
Wattage‎120 Watts

About this item (HEAT SINK)​

  • 【Full Aluminum Panel】The heat sink panel is special designed base on full aluminum material with surface oxidation treatment, it will help the lamp to dissipate heat very well.
  • 【Dimension】 12.87x7.75" (326x195mm), 10mm height.
  • 【Compatibility】The screw holes are special made for KOQ QB288 120W Series LED PCB Board (Include LM281B+ LM561C , LM301B , LM301H series), use M4 screws to fix (not included). It could be used for other product or application which mounted by thermal conducitve glue (Not included).
  • 【Note】Before you order, please confirm if this heat sink size fit for your light pcb board
  • 【Application】288LEDs pcb board, Include LM281B+ LM561B , LM301B , LM301H LED PCB boarD

screenshot-www_google_com-2024_09_16-10_06_58.png

ALL KINDS OF OPTIONS WITH FEW USER CONNECTIONS NECESSARY
BEWARE WHEN SHOPPING OF MARKUP FROM AMAZON...
 
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