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LED FAQ) Building and DIY

G

giantsfan24

New member
Dion said:
well i dunno exactly but i think the meanies are good value for what you get BUT if you wanna run less than 4 cobs and dont need dimming its china all the way

Im yet to have a driver fail
I hear ppl having chinese drivers fail but- i mean.... i dont wanna be a dick but i have a few that have been running going on 2 years so it has to be the user not the driver

the reason alot of ppl over at riu use meanies is because they r simple and ppl can tel them which ones to use

if you look at ppl like alesh and robin who are true pioneers they r not using meanwells
Click to expand...

Ok so here's my thought...

Area: 2.5' x 2.5' = 6.25 square ft

COBs: CXB3070 x 6 =

Drivers: either 2 HLG-240-2100 or 2 HLG-185H-1400, "b" versions

Heat sink: 2 bars - 18" x 5.88" with 3 cobs each

I've already got two computer fans with "driver" and a fan speed controller.

In looking at the specs, the HLG-240 seems like it would be a better fit than the 185 but I don't know if I'm looking at this correctly.

This looks like just 400w total. I was planning on a dimmer as well but don't know if it's necessary.

It was recommended to me to do a 5 cob light with one HLG-240-1400 but after reading much of this thread, I'm thinking not having my cob's all in one driver basket might be wise. Additionally, in keeping with being at 7k/l per square foot...6 cob's might better achieve that.

Your thoughts? or anyone for that matter :)
 
Dion

Dion

Active member
palmero said:
you want to use teh FT cobs?
than you need to use the 20w 600mA driver and like 6 to 8 of those(130-150w)
efficency wont be great but hey its old tech

I hear what you say, for a grow i better go with more efficient COBS because cost
of drivers and cooling are nearly the same compared to old technology COBs.

Will build one FT light to see what it does and use it as a light for my kitchen thereafter.

what part of the world you in?

Yes you got it, thats my problem. Some taxes in my place are more than stupid.
And delivery is far out of normality.

Lets say 30N and LED light is more for (pre)veg/reveg/experimental
The flowering part is done OD.

Thanks for your patience.

That myMol data i find where please?
Maybe again i am blind, sorry.

EDIT: Any use for Peltier elements wit LED?

PEACE
:tiphat:
Click to expand...


actually you can get the same efficiency as the cxb3590 run at 50w from those if you run them at 300mA=around 12 w

and it costs about the same too so you could run 10 of those cxa2430 at 300=350mA

i dont undertsand

Lets say 30N and LED light is more for (pre)veg/reveg/experimental
The flowering part is done OD.

30N?
OD?

peltier can be used for cooling sure

giantsfan24 said:
Ok so here's my thought...

Area: 2.5' x 2.5' = 6.25 square ft

COBs: CXB3070 x 6 =

Drivers: either 2 HLG-240-2100 or 2 HLG-185H-1400, "b" versions

Heat sink: 2 bars - 18" x 5.88" with 3 cobs each

I've already got two computer fans with "driver" and a fan speed controller.

In looking at the specs, the HLG-240 seems like it would be a better fit than the 185 but I don't know if I'm looking at this correctly.

This looks like just 400w total. I was planning on a dimmer as well but don't know if it's necessary.

It was recommended to me to do a 5 cob light with one HLG-240-1400 but after reading much of this thread, I'm thinking not having my cob's all in one driver basket might be wise. Additionally, in keeping with being at 7k/l per square foot...6 cob's might better achieve that.

Your thoughts? or anyone for that matter :)
Click to expand...

yeah can do that sure
its imposisible to advise without knowing the bin of cxb3070 u are getting but it could be good to look at running 5 cxb3590 or even 4 of those on the 240 driver

you can run 3 on each 185 but you will only be using 150w so there is room for another cob

5 cobs on the 240 could work
 
G

giantsfan24

New member
Dion said:
actually you can get the same efficiency as the cxb3590 run at 50w from those if you run them at 300mA=around 12 w

and it costs about the same too so you could run 10 of those cxa2430 at 300=350mA

i dont undertsand

Lets say 30N and LED light is more for (pre)veg/reveg/experimental
The flowering part is done OD.

30N?
OD?

peltier can be used for cooling sure



yeah can do that sure
its imposisible to advise without knowing the bin of cxb3070 u are getting but it could be good to look at running 5 cxb3590 or even 4 of those on the 240 driver

you can run 3 on each 185 but you will only be using 150w so there is room for another cob

5 cobs on the 240 could work
Click to expand...

The bin would be BB
 
Roasty McToasty

Roasty McToasty

Member
Build 1 is being re-evaluated for the 4th time.lol

I'm gonna now build a 4 cob 3590 rig. Driven by MW HLG-240H-C1750B. Cree pct has 4 running at about 140.1 V @ 1700- 1800 mA. I plan on dimming but the driver with potentiometer was out of stock so i got a 3 in one dimming version. Idk which dimming feature to use. I'll get half the cobs today and probably the rest by next weekend. Already have chip holders, arctic heatsinks/fans, sheet metal to mount. So excited to start this project. Big thanks to all that have helped. Hope to show her off by end of next weekend.

Peace, Roast.
 
jikko77

jikko77

Active member
are you talking about the "A" model? (internal pot?)
if is the "B" model, it should have a couple of wire dim + and dim -, with an external pot and resistence you should be fine

if you were talking about the "A" one, i didn't have found anything suitable...
if you find out some more info please share them.

looks like the most viable solution is to build your own dimmer, so far nothing suitable for a 120v and 1400mA c.c. driver. (in my case)
 
J

jesbuds

Member
Roasty, it's as simple as hooking up a 100k pot between DIM+ and DIM-. Higher resistance up to 100k gives you more amperage. I don't think the driver can output below the 10k resistance value which is why they don't have it on the datasheet.

One thing to keep in mind with pots is there are multiple versions that change how they work. In general B versions are linear with resistance, A versions are logarithmic. They work similar just half a turn on one equals different resistance than half a turn on the other.

Edit: If you have a multimeter I'd recommend testing the resistance on your pots as well, just so you know as they will have a tolerance factor (like 10-15%) so a 100k pot might only run to 95k or something.
 
palmero

palmero

Active member
actually you can get the same efficiency as the cxb3590 run at 50w from those if you run them at 300mA=around 12 w

and it costs about the same too so you could run 10 of those cxa2430 at 300=350mA

Thanks again, i see some more friiendly lads here?
not sendig you to search, ic is lots of improving imho!
i would be in for a calculation....
of the abvove statement to learn please.

If you don mind PLEASE

:tiphat:
 
Dion

Dion

Active member
Roasty McToasty said:
Build 1 is being re-evaluated for the 4th time.lol

I'm gonna now build a 4 cob 3590 rig. Driven by MW HLG-240H-C1750B. Cree pct has 4 running at about 140.1 V @ 1700- 1800 mA. I plan on dimming but the driver with potentiometer was out of stock so i got a 3 in one dimming version. Idk which dimming feature to use. I'll get half the cobs today and probably the rest by next weekend. Already have chip holders, arctic heatsinks/fans, sheet metal to mount. So excited to start this project. Big thanks to all that have helped. Hope to show her off by end of next weekend.

Peace, Roast.
Click to expand...


picture.php
 
Dion

Dion

Active member
palmero said:
actually you can get the same efficiency as the cxb3590 run at 50w from those if you run them at 300mA=around 12 w

and it costs about the same too so you could run 10 of those cxa2430 at 300=350mA

Thanks again, i see some more friiendly lads here?
not sendig you to search, ic is lots of improving imho!
i would be in for a calculation....
of the abvove statement to learn please.

If you don mind PLEASE

:tiphat:
Click to expand...

Input power [W] x efficiency [dimensionless quantity] = radiant power [W]
luminous flux [lm] / LER (luminous efficiency of radiation) [lm/W] = radiant power [W]
radiant power [w] x QER (quantum efficiency of radiation) [µmol/J] = photon flux [µmol/s]
photon flux [µmol/s] / area [m^2] = photon flux density [µmol/s/m^2]

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet...6maefyCVm3gS5sBmzAXOlh06w/edit#gid=1546675363
 
Roasty McToasty

Roasty McToasty

Member
Thank you all for great input. I picked up a 100k pots, so hopefully that works. Seems simple enough. Been pretty gacked out working on this project. Friggin love it.

So let met tell ya all how its coming together. I found 3 pieces of 1/8" sheet metal in the trash at a job site, Each piece is identical, 27.5" x 8.5". Two pieces were placed side by side, and the third is used to join them all together. This was accomplished by pre-drilling holes and then self tappers were used to secure very solidly. Now I have one piece that's 27.5" x 17". For max spread I've placed the four COB's in each corner of the plate. 2.5" hole saw at each COB placement. Had to jigsaw notch the hole a bit for wire and chip holder to fit. Not too much though. Used some 8-32 screws at 3/8" they are perfect for both chip holders and through the sheet-metal into the heat-sink.

I'm pretty happy with the way things look so far. Take a look.

20160219_191724.jpg

20160219_191741.jpg

Peace, Roast.
 
jikko77

jikko77

Active member
a wire with a soft silicone sheath, is easier to use, cable and stick it into the holder, is more simple than with other wire.
this kind of wire support different t° and V.
 
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