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LED and BUD QUALITY

delta9nxs

No Jive Productions
Veteran
A related finding, but neither indoor, nor specific to cannabis:

excellent contribution! this red film tech is demonstrating the power of manipulating light for specific crops.

not indoor crops, but this indicates that the direct full and total force of sunlight may not be the best for your particular crop.

outdoors in nature, in the wild, cannabis plants have one mission, and that is to survive long enough to pollinate or be pollinated and to make seeds to insure that the species does not die off.

it's mission is not to make beautiful, almost perfect, dank flowers full of medicine.

we immediately depart from nature as soon as we put a plant in a pot, take it indoors, deprive it of pollen, and use artificial light to get what we want from the plant.

the red film is similar to the IR-blocking film that high-tech greenhouses use. it does not block all the IR, just a large percentage of it.

i think various % of blocking ability can be purchased. the dutch are leaders in this technology.

but the fact that people who know a lot about plants, in general, are spending millions of dollars on techniques to improve their crops demonstrates that light manipulation does have some merit.

and that's where we are in the cannabis world, we see all kinds of different light sources and the LED manufacturers mostly are guessing from the looks of it. or just plain copying others so they don't have to actually do any research. proper research is expensive and the regular person does not have the resources to conduct it.

some of the manufactured LED lights seem to be pretty good. the contributors on this thread have posted pics of some beautiful flowers.

but some folks seem to be struggling with them.

i'm not struggling to grow with them. my plants are almost visually perfect with no yellowing, no rust spots, no chlorosis.

i'm producing very dank flowers.

but i'm not getting the size flowers i'm accustomed to with hps.

and i think i know why.

vermontman's pics and the spectral distribution of the galaxy light was a good pointer.

and loc dog's post about the light that has both vegetative and flower modes.

we still need to work on the ideal ratios.
 
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Crooked8

Well-known member
Mentor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
@Crooked8, hey buddy, so obviously, you are associated with a group of growers because you use the term "we".

you sound professional, which is where i am in the cannabis world. you must be career oriented. do you guys use COA's?
Im very career oriented, and no we do not use COAs, too much bullshit going on there these days. Thanks for the kind words friend.
 

JKD

Well-known member
Veteran
but the fact that people who know a lot about plants, in general, are spending millions of dollars on techniques to improve their crops demonstrates that light manipulation does have some merit.

and that's where we are in the cannabis world, we see all kinds of different light sources and the LED manufacturers mostly are guessing from the looks of it.
I would like to see the LED crowd build off of the greenhouse research.
Start with full sunlight, study which wavelengths you can filter out to improve productivity, or quality, or at least cause no harm - aim to replicate the result with LED.
 

Ca++

Well-known member
It's nice to see more work pointing to blue light damage. Even trials that didn't pass 20%, seeing lowering returns. While before we just knew 30% was visibly damaging, we now see that a token amount of blue is all we want. Like the ~5% of hps.

It's swung me away from the 4000K +660 units, and got me focused on the 3500 and 3000 again. Plus 660, but I'm not sure of the current LEDs available to us. With the dispersion angle on many being very tight, and their life expectancy a bit low for pairing with say a 301
 

snakedope

Active member
I would like to see the LED crowd build off of the greenhouse research.
Start with full sunlight, study which wavelengths you can filter out to improve productivity, or quality, or at least cause no harm - aim to replicate the result with LED.
I think that's what they been trying to do, and actually do it rather well, when I did a cycle under my panels i never saw plants develop like that under no light so far, crazy growth.
led is def the future in spectrum filtering, just need to couple it with good amount of voltage for better replicating the sun's principals.
 
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JKD

Well-known member
Veteran
I think that's what they been trying to do, and actually do it rather well, when I did a cycle under my panels i never saw plants develop like that under no light so far, crazy growth.
led is def the future in spectrum filtering, just need to couple it with good amount of voltage for better replicating the sun's principals.
My thinking is that they start with the least (like blue & red) and add. I’d like them to start with it all (full sunlight) and subtract. The end result should be the same, but I think subtracting would be a quicker path.
- Even for reducing both luminous intensity and PPFD to establish a minimum effective dose.
 

Loc Dog

Hobbies include "drinkin', smokin' weed, and all k
Veteran
This is from an extremely expensive light manufacturer so may be biased, I would never buy them but thinking of making my own if i can figure out pattern and spacing using 2 drivers per light with dimmers to vary blue and red.

The Best Spectrum for Growing Indoors​

The spectrum you select tells your plants what to do when by guiding them through the seasons. If you’re growing indoors, you have to completely recreate the sun for your plants through variable spectrum LED grow lights.

Here’s what a typical growth cycle should look like:

Seedlings​

If you’re starting from seeds, you want to give your seedlings 24-hour light, but at low intensity. Stick to about 15% red and 30% blue and white. When your seedlings get their first set of true leaves, you can double the intensity until they have more than two sets, at which point they’ve graduated to the vegetative stage.

Clones​

If you’re starting with clones, your first goal is to encourage rooting. This takes some effort on your plants’ part, so keep the light intensity low. If you stick to about 25% red and 45% blue and white, your plants is more likely to focus energy on deepening roots rather than expanding upward.

Vegetative Stage​

In the vegetative stage, your top priorities for your plants should be root growth and developing nice, tight internodes. For this, a healthy dose of blue light is your best bet. A higher concentration of blue keeps plants a little shorter. You don’t want your plants to shoot up too fast, develop longer internodes, and create a situation in the flowering stage where taller leaves form a canopy blocking light from the buds that grow lower on the plant. Keep your blue and white light levels blasting at 100% and maintain red at less than 60%.

Pre-Flower Stage​

The pre-flower stage is when you should start prioritizing bud growth. Remember how plants take the red-light signal from the sun to start flowering? That’s the natural reaction you want to tap into now. An increase in red will inspire your plants to sprout buds. However, you do still want to be careful of bathing your plants in too much red. You should avoid flowering stretch at this stage, and the red light does tend to make plants reach skyward. At pre-flower, your wisest move is to kick the intensity of red light up just a little, to about 80%. Your blue light concentration can remain right where it was.

Flowering Stage​

This is the red spectrum’s time to shine, so to speak. Up until now, you’ve been shielding your plants from a blast of red light to prevent stretching, but now your plant needs all the photons it can get. Turn your red light spectrum—that’s red and deep red—up to 100%. This maneuver helps you get those higher-than-ever yields.

The rest of the channels in your variable spectrum can stay at 100% as well. It’s all hands on deck in the flowering stage. Too much blue light will divert energy to the leaves and away from the buds. This will give fluffy buds with a lot of leaves. Very high power in red with a low level of blue is the key to maximizing yield and dense flowers.

Finishing Stage​

This is where you manage your potency and chemical profile. As you recall, blue and white light are the heroes when it comes to producing trichomes. Prioritize blue and UVB at 100%, and turn red down to about 50%. This is how you get those sticky buds everyone is looking for.

If you’re new to variable spectrum LED lights, this may seem like a lot to manage. Fortunately, you can actually program and automate the entire growth cycle with technology like the SolarSystem® Controller.

Of course, this is all strictly indoor lighting. If you’re growing in a greenhouse, the considerations are a little different.
 

Loc Dog

Hobbies include "drinkin', smokin' weed, and all k
Veteran
Certificate of Authenticity, basically testing, which is so corrupt its beyond words.
I have computer background and all I could think of was certificate of authority used in secure transactions with SSL keys. Thanks.
 

Loc Dog

Hobbies include "drinkin', smokin' weed, and all k
Veteran
A COA or CofA is a Certificate of Analysis.

A Certificate of Authenticity is something you would get with a painting.
After spending a bunch on clone only strains, and the guy selling expensive ones disappearing all of a sudden, wish I had them for clones. I figure I could have ditchweed clones.
 

goingrey

Well-known member
After spending a bunch on clone only strains, and the guy selling expensive ones disappearing all of a sudden, wish I had them for clones. I figure I could have ditchweed clones.
Heh yes, certificates of authenticity would be good for expensive clones.
 

JKD

Well-known member
Veteran
This is from an extremely expensive light manufacturer so may be biased, I would never buy them but thinking of making my own if i can figure out pattern and spacing using 2 drivers per light with dimmers to vary blue and red.
I always wonder about ‘white’. It’s in there for us - the plant wants the RGB. I like the idea of multi-channel fixtures. I wish ‘red’ were diodes between 6 & 7 hundred, and not just @ 660, and you could tune that ratio etc. Same with blue, green, etc etc.
 
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420 bhudda

New member
I use IR supplementation, with incandescent lamps. The general service lamps that cost almost nothing.
Spectral_power_distribution_of_a_25_W_incandescent_light_bulb.png

They were terrible for light, because they are heaters really.

They only serve to promote elongation, for me. Which I rarely need. I think the red balance response needs some near IR as a subject for the plant to study, as it were. The idea came before the trial. Which has led to the incandescent lamp being part of my tool box.

I'm not sure this has any effect on the product, except through shaping them up. Leading to better health.
This so so old . Like 1980 ,s old . The science has been done . Using far red not infra red . Infra red is out of visible spectrum . Far red is the wavelength in the morning and evening. So scientist postulate that maybe 15 minutes of far red light at beginning and end of light cycle will help trigger flowering. It does . My opinion. Using infra red and ultra violet two spectrums not visible to the eye . Do not help grow cannabis or any plant . Far red is unnecessary. I most certainly believe blue / violet spectrum helps grow plants. The fact that it influences canabinoids is very interesting. I have flowered plants under COBS with a cool spectrum . Leds are blue spectrum with colored filters to increase range of spectrum . I grew great looking super frosty plants . No uv. No infra red . The blue spectrum actually helped the plants stay compact .
 

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