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LED and BUD QUALITY
- Thread starter Tropical Sun
- Start date
You have the ‘red light therapy’ crowd snapping up 660nm as well.
Ca++
Well-known member
Heavy use of any colour will lead to lower prices. Whites get the most attention and uvc just got a load more work, due to covid. 630 is basically red, while 660 is a horti colour. For some time the red used in whites wasn't 630 though. I think it was 610. High cri needs pushed for proper red.
I don't know a deal about phosphate mixing for lamps, but do understand 630 cost more to make than the 610 peak. So material costs do play a role.
35 years ago I saw my first blue LED. My cousin was showing it off, and it had cost him a tidy sum. Blue came after red green and yellow. So LEDs didn't used to be blue at heart.
I had a grow going downhill over a number of years, until I changed out some of the panels. I never got another run to call it conclusive, but the cri on the first ones shifted, and only the new ones showed this by comparison. They oddly seemed to get warmer, but should get colder over time. 301s + 660s and I think it was the 660s that really lost their way. The spots on the floor faded a lot. I have heard the 660s fail sooner, and mine were budget, not cree. Perhaps the warming and cri deterioration were the 301 loosing green. I can only guess. It was only about 4 years, with the last 3 dropping a bit each time. I have seen no other reports of this though. Ultimately, I changed a third of the lights and got a third of the losses back. I'm not finished with that experiment, but need a sacrificial grow somewhere to use the 'perhaps' bad lights again
I'm happy to avoid a lot of blue, as all evidence leads away from it. Certainly our plants evolved with it present, but I think a token amount is all they need
I don't know a deal about phosphate mixing for lamps, but do understand 630 cost more to make than the 610 peak. So material costs do play a role.
35 years ago I saw my first blue LED. My cousin was showing it off, and it had cost him a tidy sum. Blue came after red green and yellow. So LEDs didn't used to be blue at heart.
I had a grow going downhill over a number of years, until I changed out some of the panels. I never got another run to call it conclusive, but the cri on the first ones shifted, and only the new ones showed this by comparison. They oddly seemed to get warmer, but should get colder over time. 301s + 660s and I think it was the 660s that really lost their way. The spots on the floor faded a lot. I have heard the 660s fail sooner, and mine were budget, not cree. Perhaps the warming and cri deterioration were the 301 loosing green. I can only guess. It was only about 4 years, with the last 3 dropping a bit each time. I have seen no other reports of this though. Ultimately, I changed a third of the lights and got a third of the losses back. I'm not finished with that experiment, but need a sacrificial grow somewhere to use the 'perhaps' bad lights again
I'm happy to avoid a lot of blue, as all evidence leads away from it. Certainly our plants evolved with it present, but I think a token amount is all they need
I use ES 180v3 and love the results
goingrey
Well-known member
Three of the diodes are far red (660nm). Not the entire light. I'm sure you could grow a couple of plants with a dozen of them nicely.
Three Berries
Active member
I just bought a 200 w light that has four red panels that can be switched in pairs on or off. Running with one off because heat now. Waiting on a dimmer.
I was thinking of mimicking dawn and sunset with them by turning the reds on one at a time first with no veg light for the first hour then reverse at lights out time? Sounds like a lot of work.....
I was thinking of mimicking dawn and sunset with them by turning the reds on one at a time first with no veg light for the first hour then reverse at lights out time? Sounds like a lot of work.....
WilliamhGibsona
New member
I do agree with snakedope, I also noticed that underpowered bulbs especially if you don't put them on the full lighting power will grow killer plants but if you guys plan to extract CBD oil from plants is better to go full power and use the HPS.
Wall
Active member
I think the (quality) LEDs do a superb job! I worked 26 years under hps and it took me 4.5 years before deciding on LEDs (I know, I took my time!) but for half the electricity, half the money, overheating and C ° I will never return to HPS even if the BUD are sometimes bigger! Plants under LED have better ramifications that compensates... but before I went up 10 to 12 hps 400w (when electricity was still affordable, lol!) now it's over and for almost half the Watts I go out almost as much . The LEDs (I specify Quality not Chinese shit at 20 cents..) do a superb job. I even saw my little cousin pull out 345g with 2 x 120w (240w) LEDs!!!!!!! No 250w hps lamp would come out 345g... not even in DREAM. I can only now defend the LEDs and HAPPILY!!!!!!!
felicebehaviour
New member
I do agree with snakedope. I also noticed that under powered bulbs, especially if you don't put them on the full lighting power, will grow killer plants, but if you guys plan to extract CBD oil from plants it is better to go full power and use the HPS. I don't know maybe this is just a coincidence of factors. I don't have any proof and didn't read any studies that approve my words. Also, if someone from here knows a good CBD digital marketing agency? I want to open my CBD-related business legally, and I wonder if someone worked with a reliable agency that helped with promoting business
Sometimes I wonder if it's the Same person...Agreeing with themself???
so using my mars fce8000 in my 5x5ft tent at 50 or so percent (i'm using 70pct at the moment) will yield stronger weed??? - i ain't got a phd... i'm just your average dickhead, but that doesn't sound rite..
A simple google search provides a wealth of information. Might be the HID or electricity lobbies spreading misinformation here. This site has been going down the toilet for a long time with the best and most informative members leaving.
Gorilla Butter F2 aka white Truffle and Chimera grown under a Mars fce-65000. I couldn't grow them any better under any light. LED can def grow top shelf flower. I haven't used HPS in 8 or more years.. CMH has been my main lighting in flower.. I switched to a mixed spectrum CMH/LED. There's only a single 1KW CMH left. The rest are LED.
What do you think of Chimera (#3 if you have grown). Been talking to someone on another site, and his second run of it and describes it as a daytime smoke and not planning to grow again. He may have just grown it wrong. He mentioned using 6.0 to 6.4 PH in coco which too high and cause lockout.
greyfader
Well-known member
very nice!
just to clarify who's posting and that i'm not trying to deceive like a recent poster has done, i am the grower formerly known as delta9nxs.
i found a bunch of my passwords were in the hands of advertisers and connected to my old handle so it's time for a change.
I have been studying the led grow light industry trying to see who is using what and for what reasons.
the mars hydro lights are very popular and i am specifically looking at the fce line with the bridgelux diodes.
there are 3 methods of producing "white" light.
the first is phosphor coating. it is the least expensive way to get white light and most manufacturers are using this method. it's the way most household bulbs are made.
the second method is the most expensive but probably the best way to do it for color rendition. this method combines specific wavelength diodes in ratios to achieve white light.
so far i haven't found any grow light manufacturers using the more expensive and more accurate method of duplicating natural light.
if anyone knows of one please chip in. i think there's a pun in there somewhere.
the third method uses a hybrid combination of the two above mentioned techniques.
below is bridgelux's spd for their various "white" light diodes.
mars hydro fce's uses 3000k and 5000k white diodes in combination.
does anyone know if they are 50/50 or another ratio of 3000k to 5000k?
looking at all of these it's apparent that none have the 660nm shoulder.
these are samsung lm 301b with and without red 660 diodes.
so my diy lights using 2700k and 5000k bulbs are not too bad for everything but 660nm.
it would be interesting to hear from everyone on what color temps of white diodes and ratio of those color temps are being used by various manufacturers.
and the ratio of 660nm to the combined white light sources.
we have seen that @vermontman's galaxy uses 8% 660nm diodes.
the above graphs for the household bulbs and for the various "white" diodes the manufacturers are using are somewhat misleading as they show continuous curves when the actual spd's are staccato like and full of gaps at various frequencies.
this may be the real reason they are using two overlapping white sources.
i like the way this thread is going now. we could have a fixture comparison resource here if we all contribute.
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I used these LEDs.. Growers Choice, Mars and, HLG leds. My GC 420 led failed.. 1 of the bars won't power on anymore. Lasted about 1 year. I'm only using Mars and , HLG now. The total led wattage is 1900.
HLG Diablo 630W- Over a year old.
HLG 320W - going on 2 years.
Mars 680w -11 months old
Mars SP250 -This reads 280w. over 2 years old.
I have a thread documenting the results form the Mars FCE-6500 here
HLG Diablo 630W- Over a year old.
HLG 320W - going on 2 years.
Mars 680w -11 months old
Mars SP250 -This reads 280w. over 2 years old.
I have a thread documenting the results form the Mars FCE-6500 here
Diary - Mars FCE-6500 680w LED Grow Journal
Mars FCE-6500 680w version. They sent this model instead, As soon as it arrives I'll get it set up and start documenting.. This will definitely require some rearranging of my veg space.. I currently Have 2 8x4, 1 4x2, and 1 5x5 tent in this space. I will have to decommission the 4x2 and my old...
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Legalcdn
Well-known member
I have run 3000k/3500k bridgelux gen2 for 4 years with good results.
I bought S3000 osram diodes ($100US with coupon) from UPDAYDAY on amazon. It has quite a few spectrums.
The UA5000 HPS can switch from HPS to MH to CMH to Sun.
It has sunrise and sunset feature. It's worth a read on amazon. Vipon gives coupons all the time.
I am not a vendor, just found the led tech different than others. Time will tell. I will start a grow next week with them.
I bought S3000 osram diodes ($100US with coupon) from UPDAYDAY on amazon. It has quite a few spectrums.
The UA5000 HPS can switch from HPS to MH to CMH to Sun.
It has sunrise and sunset feature. It's worth a read on amazon. Vipon gives coupons all the time.
I am not a vendor, just found the led tech different than others. Time will tell. I will start a grow next week with them.
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Tomatoesonly
Active member
That's a cool light, neat idea. Amazon reviews seem to indicate they need to work on the quality. Price is really good too... if it worked.
