International Clone Only cuts in the UK

[Ganja baba]

Hay G,,, I'm going to look closely at this pathogen subject at some point soon,,,good call on the E20 . I'm looking to deal with a friends broad mite issue soon. Going to order some Fukin spinosad and hit his shit with the hardest pesticides , growth regulators and systemics etc I can find,,I'm guessing a clean up on pathogens and a flush of systemics would be a nice finisher on the clone clean up


On March 23rd, several Denver-based marijuana grow operations were ordered to quarantine plants after it was determined they were treated with Eagle 20, a fungicidal pesticide (1). Myclobutanil-based fungicides, including Eagle 20, are applied to a wide range of edible agricultural products (grapes, apples, spinach, etc). When applied correctly, myclobutanil is known to have low toxicity to humans. Myclobutanil-based fungicides, including Eagle 20EW, are not currently approved for use in the United States on tobacco, the only (other than marijuana) smokable agricultural commodity. The toxicity and health effects of myclobutanil in the context of combustion/inhalation (versus ingestion) have not been assessed.

The following analysis summarizes some of the known chemical and physical properties of myclobutanil, and highlights the potential health implications of using this chemical on marijuana.

Mode of Action
Myclobutanil is the active ingredient in several brands of pesticides, including Eagle 20EW. Myclobutanil works by blocking a key enzyme involved in fungal cell membrane synthesis, leading to abnormal cell growth and eventual death of the fungal pathogen (2) Myclobutanil is a systemic fungicide, meaning it is absorbed at the site of application (ex. leaf) and distributed throughout the rest of the plant, thereby providing more comprehensive protection from fungal infection (2). As a systemic chemical, myclobutanil cannot be removed by washing treated crops, although residue will decrease in plant tissues over time. The final remaining residue levels vary considerably and are highly dependent on the rate of application, the time of last application before harvest, and how well the specific plant clears the chemical from its system.

I looked into the combustion issues to and came up with this to try next I'm sure you can get it in yank land
Take a look can be used on tabaco , I brought eagle 20 to this forum when I first found it it was not sold any where now eBay sells tons of the stuff , I'm friends with this comp how the fuckers give me some commission this time lol
Also remember that the vascules hold what ever the plant has been subjected to in its cells , from what I am aware off is once the five weeks have passed and we take cutting from new growth the new growth shouldn't have the systemic stuff in it only the old growth in the vascules in the cells
Check it out amistar sounds just what we have been looking for but not used it my self yet so who knows
http://www.syngenta.com/global/corp...crop-protection/fungicides/Pages/amistar.aspx

 

[Mate Dave]

That's my opinion too Ganja Baba. I used Bayer Systhane didn't have access to Eagle and didn't need it..

Vacuoles are the part of the plant that tell us everything about everything.. You take 3 ounce of weed homogonize it in a solution and you can find the contaminate, I highly doubt it's in my plants 4 years on or whatever..

http://www.plant-biology.com/Salt-Tolerance.php

 

[Timm]

Hay G,,, I'm going to look closely at this pathogen subject at some point soon,,,good call on the E20 . I'm looking to deal with a friends broad mite issue soon. Going to order some Fukin spinosad and hit his shit with the hardest pesticides , growth regulators and systemics etc I can find,,I'm guessing a clean up on pathogens and a flush of systemics would be a nice finisher on the clone clean up


On March 23rd, several Denver-based marijuana grow operations were ordered to quarantine plants after it was determined they were treated with Eagle 20, a fungicidal pesticide (1). Myclobutanil-based fungicides, including Eagle 20, are applied to a wide range of edible agricultural products (grapes, apples, spinach, etc). When applied correctly, myclobutanil is known to have low toxicity to humans. Myclobutanil-based fungicides, including Eagle 20EW, are not currently approved for use in the United States on tobacco, the only (other than marijuana) smokable agricultural commodity. The toxicity and health effects of myclobutanil in the context of combustion/inhalation (versus ingestion) have not been assessed.

The following analysis summarizes some of the known chemical and physical properties of myclobutanil, and highlights the potential health implications of using this chemical on marijuana.

Mode of Action
Myclobutanil is the active ingredient in several brands of pesticides, including Eagle 20EW. Myclobutanil works by blocking a key enzyme involved in fungal cell membrane synthesis, leading to abnormal cell growth and eventual death of the fungal pathogen (2) Myclobutanil is a systemic fungicide, meaning it is absorbed at the site of application (ex. leaf) and distributed throughout the rest of the plant, thereby providing more comprehensive protection from fungal infection (2). As a systemic chemical, myclobutanil cannot be removed by washing treated crops, although residue will decrease in plant tissues over time. The final remaining residue levels vary considerably and are highly dependent on the rate of application, the time of last application before harvest, and how well the specific plant clears the chemical from its system.

Easy rick all you need for easy broad mite eradication is avid / forbid. Spinosad is ineffective against them in my experience they always came back when i tried organic methods. Hit them with avid and then 5 days later forbid. Repeat this once and they'll be toast

 

[englishrick]

Yeh here is my proposal

Start with spinosad,, (Bayer conserve). Then thick layers of neem. Then avid then forbid. E20 then Back to spinosad and neem. Then back to avid and forbid... Re clone,, then do it again,, then the job is done,,

What do you guys think

 

[Timm]

I'd say that's a bit excessive. It depends on the situation are you trying to save already vegging plants or are you just trying to take new clones and start from scratch?

If the latter then I would suggest spraying your plants with spinosad for an initial knockdown and then taking clones. Once they root dip them in avid then forbid 5 days apart and repeat. That worked for me and I haven't seen a mite since. I also followed up with ogbiowar every 4 days for a few weeks just in case

I found neem done nothing at all to broad mites.. maybe a slight knockdown

 

[Ganja baba]

That's my opinion too Ganja Baba. I used Bayer Systhane didn't have access to Eagle and didn't need it..

Vacuoles are the part of the plant that tell us everything about everything.. You take 3 ounce of weed homogonize it in a solution and you can find the contaminate, I highly doubt it's in my plants 4 years on or whatever..

http://www.plant-biology.com/Salt-Tolerance.php

Vacuoles lol was trying to figure out how to spell that one , was ages ago I first read about them , as I was typing I was hoping I was remembering the text properly , plants sure seem better after a spray especially old strains so makes me wonder what else lingers around in old strains

 

[Mate Dave]

Check this Video

Check this Video

Vacuoles lol was trying to figure out how to spell that one , was ages ago I first read about them , as I was typing I was hoping I was remembering the text properly , plants sure seem better after a spray especially old strains so makes me wonder what else lingers around in old strains

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZzSTfuTeREs

 

[theherbalizor]

There really is no need to buy e20 when you can get systhane fungus fighter for £3.99 for a concentrate bottle.

But for broads you really don't need horrible chems.

I completely wiped them out from my grow using by turning the heat in the room upto 45 dog for about an hour' repeat again a few days later.

Daily ogbiowar sprays and swaskii mite predators. Another heat treatment a few weeks later and again repeated.

Then nothing when I got into flower. And no sign of a single pest left what so ever.

Very glad I didn't use the avid, forbid and pylon that I had purchased just in case. They are now in the bin.

 

[truecannabliss]

I think I remember that, was it the ECSD that came infected?

That was one of the cuts that came over and the main suspect for the Broad Mites.

englishrick OG Bio War for the win, that with an insane cleaning regime and heat treatment and you should be good....your room will keep broad mites alive even if you use chems on plants so make sure you are cleaning with a steam cleaner. Swarski mites in veg and Swarski+ slow release sachets are great to use in flowering. Seriously be careful with chemicals, your using outdoor things inside so be safe and i would suggest dunking plants rather than spraying if you do use them.

Peace

 

[Timm]

Avid and Forbid should definitely be used with caution and i would never apply them as a spray

I even felt a bit sick after just handling them and mixing them up preparing for dipping. Was using a respirator and chem gloves too

 

[Ganja baba]

Smoking some pez, wreck d,chocolope,and gg4

 

[englishrick]

Just talking to a friend about og biowar,,, has it got predator mites in there?

 

[truecannabliss]

Just talking to a friend about og biowar,,, has it got predator mites in there?

Its bacteria from what i understand that wipes out all the bugs.
One thing i know its that people like TLC collective and many large lab tested facilities that need there flowers to test clean for patients use it to maintain a clean grow.

Peace

 

[englishrick]

Definitely going with og biowar,,,

So far my plan is to setup far far away from my grow. Using a tent on its own.

Then I'm planning on using these,,, but not worked out my approach yet

Neem
Bayer conserve (spinosad)
E20
Avid
Forbid
Og bio war

That's gota frigging do it

 

[Mate Dave]

What for Rick, if you need all that I'd be wounded..

You can clone past everthing bro if your good.. Neem is only any good as a ground up plant, as an oil it's shite.. 100% don't work..

The myclobutanil works for fungus..

For everything else there is proper cultivation.. Neem forget that stuff bro..

You tried to get me to douse my plants in that shite to get rid of your thrip issue..

It would never work with neem. It's shit bro..

You want some pyrethium 5EC..

Grow neem plants.. All the rest of the stuff you list is criminal..

I have to question a growers mentality and work ethics spraying neem as a bandaid..


You will need all the pesricides you can handle in a non organic garden, the plants vitality is severely reduced with chem's, the plant's don't like them and the plant isn't able to defend its self as effectively. The only advantage is that soil born disease is reduced.. Growing and spraying a myriad of non effective agents is a fcukin joke ..

 

[englishrick]

No. You can't clone past broad mite. This is the big problem issue. Otherwise I'd do it! But I can clone past systemic pesticide. An no its not a skill issue. Its just too unreliable and slow in this instance. I'm not risking a contamination in my rooms. It's just not happening. What's happening here is a last resort to save a clone nobody has access to anymore. Neem is good. it's only for controlling populations via slowing maturity, it's not for getting rid of them, but I have personally seen a positive impact with it.but I'm not debating with you on this. It's pointless

 

[theherbalizor]

Ogbiowar contains hirsutella thompsonii, pseudomonas fumosoroseus, and beavaria. these are the bacteria that grow within the mite, dry it out and then cause the mites body to explode more bacteria spores everywhere.

And Rick, don't bother with E20. Get systhane fungus fighter. It's a uk product, silly cheap and purchasable at your local garden centre. If you can't find it I'll happily send you some bro.

 

[theherbalizor]

Smoking some pez, wreck d,chocolope,and gg4

Is this the wreck d that's floats around the uk? What do you think of it? I have one finishing off and I'm nit too impressed. But the BMs may have upset it some what.

 

[englishrick]

That's some good info herb. I'm still building a regime to deal with it. The bio war is definitely going in at the end. I'm listening all possible products atm. I'm going to try an get ahold of the ones I want soon. Not sure what I'm going with yet.

 

[theherbalizor]

No worries.

Honestly all you need for BM is ogbiowar, heat treatments and swaskii mites. Nothing else.

Oh and a good idea if you think you may have BMs is to do aspirin sprays every 3-4 weeks. Ideally with a suffacant like Yukka. The aspirin at a rate of 325mg per us gallon helps to prevent duds which is what happens to the plant thanks to the toxins the BMs leave behind.

The aspirin initiates the plants SAR ( systemic autoimmune response ). So whilst the aspirin will help prevent duds it won't fix an already dudded plant. Once a plant is a dud, it's a dud forever more. Can't clone out of it. Just have to bin it.

The worst affected plant on my run was the wavy gravy and it didn't get too dudded but it has reduced resin and smell. But did dud enough to screw with yield.