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...use a soldering iron to make the holes in the bottoms, a drill bit will just break the plastic, it's supple enough to melt but too brittle to drill.
peace, bozo
rockymountainJ
Active member
Hey Budley thanks for the info on the hash extraction!! Back to reading!! Lot to catch up to on your thread!! Lol yrs worth!! Cheers
Hey wick cloning peeps...
I had a fairly brilliant idea I think....
This thread shows how to build a number of devices which work as a wick cloner...
But in this thread I say over and over temps are critical to success..... I dont really suggest an answer for the problem....
That answer is actually pretty simple and costs are reasonable...
Its simply a 5 gallon bucket....lid and a thermometer.....
Add an adjustable fishtank heater for say 15 to 20 bucks and thats it...
put a hole in the lid for the heater...... set the thermometer on the lid ....adjust the heater until its about 82 according to the thermometer
set the cloners on top ......and there you have it....
The heater only turns on when needed and it should be very accurate....
Here is a suitable heater...
Hydor 25W Submersible Glass Aquarium Heater - Original Theo
any fully temperature adjustable 10 gallon heater would be good...
I do not advise the heaters which are preset....they are a few degrees too cool for my liking
Now there are no excuses....anyone can be an expert cloner
I had a fairly brilliant idea I think....
This thread shows how to build a number of devices which work as a wick cloner...
But in this thread I say over and over temps are critical to success..... I dont really suggest an answer for the problem....
That answer is actually pretty simple and costs are reasonable...
Its simply a 5 gallon bucket....lid and a thermometer.....
Add an adjustable fishtank heater for say 15 to 20 bucks and thats it...
put a hole in the lid for the heater...... set the thermometer on the lid ....adjust the heater until its about 82 according to the thermometer
set the cloners on top ......and there you have it....
The heater only turns on when needed and it should be very accurate....
Here is a suitable heater...
Hydor 25W Submersible Glass Aquarium Heater - Original Theo
any fully temperature adjustable 10 gallon heater would be good...
I do not advise the heaters which are preset....they are a few degrees too cool for my liking
Now there are no excuses....anyone can be an expert cloner
Well I have good news and bad.....
SInce I cant ask......Here is the bad news...... Im not going to use this technique for cloning much anymore...... I cant say not at all.....but certainly not much....
The good news is ....Im not going to be using this method for cloning much anymore.....
Instead Im using airlayering....
Why???? from large mother plants I can take an air layer about the length of my arm.....
Its a strong incentive.....
I have an air layering thread in my sig....... or you can msg me......
If its brief.....you can ask here....
LOVE LOVE LOVE air layering
happy to help
SInce I cant ask......Here is the bad news...... Im not going to use this technique for cloning much anymore...... I cant say not at all.....but certainly not much....
The good news is ....Im not going to be using this method for cloning much anymore.....
Instead Im using airlayering....
Why???? from large mother plants I can take an air layer about the length of my arm.....
Its a strong incentive.....
I have an air layering thread in my sig....... or you can msg me......
If its brief.....you can ask here....
LOVE LOVE LOVE air layering
happy to help
Big CLones
Member
I love this thread..... keep the cuts warm and they will root
Perhaps someone can comment one what is happening here. Over time my success rate has fallen to near 0, now with leaves seeming to burn up. My thread in infirmary:
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=331022
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=331022
Big CLones
Member
I would use a more pure method....
Make sure the plastic mold has been cleaned with bleach....
Use only new vermiculite....
avoid the h2o2
Temps at 80 or so 24 hours a day....
Good air exchanges.....
use a aquariium thermometer to monitor the temps....
Make sure the plastic mold has been cleaned with bleach....
Use only new vermiculite....
avoid the h2o2
Temps at 80 or so 24 hours a day....
Good air exchanges.....
use a aquariium thermometer to monitor the temps....
Big CLones
Member
OH and make sure the plants stay at least an inch above the water in the reservoir......the plants should not sit in water all the time....
Thanks for the reply. The above blows my mind, however, as I believe the wick concept requires the bottom of tubes to be in the water. Are you saying the stem of the cutting should not be inserted all the way to the bottom of the tube?
As for the other feedback, see below with <<
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]I would use a more pure method....
<<< trying...
Make sure the plastic mold has been cleaned with bleach....
<<< check. The molds and the container are soaked after each run. In a 25% bleach mix.
Use only new vermiculite....
<< check. I have had the same hudge bag (2 cubic feet or such) for a long time. Sits in the garage, but dont think it can go bad or get infected.. Perhaps worth a try to get some different.
avoid the h2o2
<<< I did not use, but started getting rank smell from media and stems. I suppose maybe it is causing the burning as that is new.
Temps at 80 or so 24 hours a day....
<<< Trying. In an AC house. Daytime can get to 80, but night gets cooler. Have a seedling heat mat I can run on timer, but suppose should go with a thermo stat.
Good air exchanges.....
<<< Original chamber has always had both fish pump and temp driver active exhaust. My new chamber never got warm enough to exhaust. Have added a fish pump to it as well. See similar in both chambers at present.
use a aquariium thermometer to monitor the temps....
<< I have that and a digital one. Also got a push sensor that will data log. Will add it to chamber to get a better feel of average and time spent near extremes.
Given affecting both chambers, I think best options are new media and no h202.
Thanks again.
[/FONT]
Big CLones
Member
Im going to point out..... that the main emphasis in the whole thread are temps......
If I were betting..... I would say thats the problem.....
The smell thing I admit is a little befuddling....
Yes the bottom of the stem should be above the level of water in the res.....
ANd yes the cloner must sit in water to wick.....
If I were betting..... I would say thats the problem.....
The smell thing I admit is a little befuddling....
Yes the bottom of the stem should be above the level of water in the res.....
ANd yes the cloner must sit in water to wick.....
HorseBadoritiz
Active member
I don't push the stems all the way to the bottom of the mold, but I do keep the molds sitting in at least an inch of water. I change out the water every 2x days, too.
In my situation, the heat mat thermostat is a must. I think without one, the mat will try to keep 10° above the ambient temps. Makes temps either too high or low most of the time for my space.
Big CLones
Member
drdank..... please look at post 933....
That set up is a bit more pricey because it uses an aquarium heater.....but will keep your cloner in the range you need for cloning to become easy again....
Thats the set up I use in winter..... the good thing about this set up....is the aquarium heater can be set very accurately......
Its doesnt take many dead clones to substantiate the few extra bucks for the heater.....
That set up is a bit more pricey because it uses an aquarium heater.....but will keep your cloner in the range you need for cloning to become easy again....
Thats the set up I use in winter..... the good thing about this set up....is the aquarium heater can be set very accurately......
Its doesnt take many dead clones to substantiate the few extra bucks for the heater.....
Thanks all. 24 hour temp monitoring shows average 78, max80.7 and min 74.8. Using a seedling heater rather than the aquarium as I am space limited.
Pulling the stem a bit out of the water is interesting. I don't recall seeing that in this thread until now.
So far the last batch (typo said bath) are holding steady. After 48hrs the dome is removed. Usually issues start to show around day 7.
Regards
Pulling the stem a bit out of the water is interesting. I don't recall seeing that in this thread until now.
So far the last batch (typo said bath) are holding steady. After 48hrs the dome is removed. Usually issues start to show around day 7.
Regards
Last edited:
Big CLones
Member
When you first fill the cloner and firm the vermiculite....
you set the cloner in about an inch of water....... you wait for a few minutes for the wicking action to to wet the vermiculite from bottom to top....you can tell by the color change...
THen you put the clone in..... If your clones were sitting in warm water..... they would probably rot..... since dissolved oxygen is very low in warm water......that probably explains your smell issue.....
you set the cloner in about an inch of water....... you wait for a few minutes for the wicking action to to wet the vermiculite from bottom to top....you can tell by the color change...
THen you put the clone in..... If your clones were sitting in warm water..... they would probably rot..... since dissolved oxygen is very low in warm water......that probably explains your smell issue.....
@ big. Thanks. To be clear, they only sit in water as I take the cuts. Its room temp, no more than 80 degrees. Normally I pre-wet the media with a spray bottle, then pack down a bit, take the cuts, (which I store temporarily in a few inches of water), then one by one dip in cloning gel and then into the media.
Then the media goes into tray with a bit of the soak water.
It is warm here and I do think the smell is root rot, if there were roots that is. Kind of a sulfur crap smell.
Regards
Then the media goes into tray with a bit of the soak water.
It is warm here and I do think the smell is root rot, if there were roots that is. Kind of a sulfur crap smell.
Regards
Big CLones
Member
I dont worry about ph much...... since you arent trying to feed the clones.....just get roots..... but to be on the safe side..... something slightly acidic seems like a good idea.....
Like 6 to 7.....
Like 6 to 7.....
I use straight RO water that is at ~ 25 PPM on .5 scale. The ph is 6.2 (today). I normally don't ph the plain water for reasons noted.
Thanks.
HorseBadoritiz
Active member
Are you changing the water? I use rain water that's bubbled, so it's slightly acidic with a lot of dissolved oxygen.
I also change out the trays the molds sit in, especially if they get any slimy feeling. I used to use a dome, but when I stopped, my strike percentage went way up. I guess it depends if you grow in a really dry place, but I don't think they are necessary.
