Hemp Russet Mites!! Help?

[Trich_Tyson]

Nukes nukes nukes.. Find a way to get them.. have someone order for you, find a shady business
You've got a really difficult battle ahead of you if you don't.
With a full time job, i sure as hell didn't have time to fuck around.

If you are a full time grower and providing patients with medicine, sure, spend your whole day remediating the situation naturally and holistically.. but if your in any situation like mine, fuck that noise. Dead those bitches and get back to work.

I've been clear for 3 months and hope to continue that way.

Also you must minimize foliage.. stop any rotation you've got, cull whatever plants you can. Whatever moms you must salvage, cut back to a branch or two with one or two nodes..
you will not win if you give them ample places (foliage) to live. If your plants are in okay enough shape, take cuts and treat the cuts (mine were not, so i had to treat big moms)
If you have no elites.. scrap it all, start fresh with intensive IPM. There is no point in struggling for 6 months and getting trash harvests when you can avoid that shit, lose 2-3 months of time, but win the war.

If you really can't or won't get the nukes.. you can bet your ass you will be spraying every day or 3 for a LONG time.. and do not skip a beat. You need to break the cycle and keep it broken. While you protect your plants you must deal with the room.. i.e. sulfur burns, heat treatments, and sanitization.

 

[Wendull C.]

Amen.^^^^^

 

[Jajda z okjesu]

Amen.^^^^^

Hello guys, i need help, can i see hemprusset without microscope and can hemprusset be alive without plant material?? And i want try temp treat. What can i do?? Temp about 35 degree celsius for 2 hours or what?? Thanks you guys.. I was use vermitec 1.8 ec, but problem is still.

 

[Trich_Tyson]

No you can’t. Can see em ok at 60x. Much easier at 130.
And they won’t survive long without a ganja plant to munch on and destroy.
The eggs will live on tho

Idk what 35 Celsius is. But if it’s 120 degrees F the. Yes. The longer the better. I turned all fans off and cranked all my hps on max. Use a heater if u need to. Gunna be difficult if u use LED.

And no idea what Vermitec is or what the ec has to do with it. Google didn’t help either lol. Sounds like something having to do with worms

 

[calisun]

It may be strain dependent but for the russets I have,wettable sulfur did nothing and met 52 was very dependent on cool temps and sustained humidity of 70% and above. I’m only using the Met as a soil drench now.

I sprayed Met52 every 5 days. Not much , then every 3 days , then every other day. They came back.

I think that may be good to soften them up before the kill.


I had better luck using Monterey Pest Fighter oil and coco wet.


So far , avid and tetrasan are kicking their asses.

Hey Joker thanks for the feedback on met52. Was that the new formula you are using. The only difference I see on the website is it doesn't need to be refrigerated and has a longer shelf life. It is also a different texture and is easier to mix with water. Not sure if the active ingredients are changed or stronger.

 

[The Joker1]

Yes. It’s the new formula and yes it needs refrigeration if the temps go above 72. I had a bottle go bad after it hit 90 on a hot day . I keep it in the fridge now.

If your temps are always below 72 , then no need for refrigeration. I called the number on the bottle and talked to a rep.

I sprayed it on my outdoor trees and tomatoes and the cool evenings seemed to give it better success than my indoor grow . Works great on cool temps but won’t kill any any females INSIDE your plants . Has to contact them. It will also kill anything in your soil if used as a drench. No more gnats.

 

[The Joker1]

My next step is Akari and then Forbid after letting the leaves recover. Right now , they get Met 52 and my fogger arrives today.

Compost tea, foliar feeding and Regalia for plant health until I can get cuts to root and throw everything else away. I lost rare and irreplaceable mothers.

 

[wazzer]

Hi guys here's the update I hit them with isopropyl aviation blend mate of mine had some he uses to make oil could not see what percentage it was on label must of been 99%+ I got 1 litre spray hand held the ones with a trigger action they are harder to use than the 1 gallon sprays with wonds but have a fine mist and that's what you want get everything really soaked and not to miss any thing,500ml isopropyl 500ml water 3 good drops of dish
Washing detergent the detergent leaves a layer of coating on the leaves because the isopropyl will fuck up few of your leaves but will disentergrate the mites and eggs it did for me it's been 3 days and they have new lush green growth and they are free next step hit walls and floors don't want them coming back isopropyl is not cheap shit just make sure it's 99% any isopropyl
My strain is old jack herer original she's tough and can handle a beating that's why I could go threw flowering with these mites strong immune system if your strain is young seperate one plant and spray her if only few leaves get damaged its fine hit the rest but if it desroyes over 50% go a 60-40 mix but don't no how effective it will be that's my experience guys and I did se some eggs vaporised under 200-500x camera.

 

[Wendull C.]

Good to hear man. I let my flower finish lost 40% or so and nuked the fuck out of my genetic preserve. I dont fuck around, neem for ovacide, avid, forbid 4f, avid again, neem again in case any eggs made it through the first time, forbid again.

I kept all my irreplacable mothers. The moms were moved to another room that normally holds no plants. The room was bleached, scrubbed with more bleach, sulfured with a burner, then sprayed w 99% iso. Havent seen the bank robbers in over a year.

 

[Trich_Tyson]

That’s it brotha. The only way.

 

[The Joker1]

I've had no luck with neem at all and people swear by it. What kind of neem do you use? I've always had good success with Monterey Pest Fighter with insect soap or a wetting agent. Ineffective against insects that live inside the plant like russets. I'm interested in the ovacide qualities as the only ovacides I have burn the fuck out of the plants or are toxic: Nuke em... burns... Forbid... burns... Tetrasan ... awesome, but toxic. So far no new eggs, no live mites in 4 weeks... that I've seen. Cuts look really good, but they got double dipped in Tetrasan and Avid before they went under the dome after moms were treated. 7 days is easy.... they need to survive until they root.

 

[Trich_Tyson]

My plants didn’t particularly like avid. They didn’t burn but they looked bummed (like I️ was). Forbid on the other hand seemed to cheer them up, and also work better than the avid.
4 weeks is a good stretch. The oil sprays will help protect them while u keep the cycle broken. I’d still thin foliage regularly to keep living space minimal. And pull plants out to sanitize the area a few more times. You have the upper hand now. Keep it that way

 

[Wendull C.]

If avid or forbid are burning your plants, you either mixed heavy or did not water before hand. Assuming you know all that shit is phytotoxic.

 

[The Joker1]

Water heavily before all sprays, enough time ahead for the leaves to really be hydrated.

Avid 1.2 - 2 ml per gallon, ph to 5.8 spray lights on. never a problem... but that shit is toxic

Forbid 1.2 ml no need to adjust ph, lights off.... I've had mixed success rinsing off after 12 hours of darkness after spray and before lights on. Maybe not watered enough, but for plants that are in recovery, it can be brutal. I've had them look fine for days, then start to look like shit, but recover. I'm trying to be very gentle on the leaves right now. The upside is it disappears from the plant much faster than Avid.

Akari: No Ph adjust 1.5 ml per gallon

Tetrasan is by weight, I don't have that in front of me. No plant damage whatsoever , and it killed the eggs better than anything.

Pylon... also very good.

Nuke em, fries your plant whether you water or not.

Invest in an atomizer, a full face respirator, a tyvek suit and chemical gloves. Grow seeds for your smoke until your plants are clear of all this crap which will take months.

Contradictory information as to how long Avid is detectable in plants. Grow a mom, clone, new mom etc. some say 45 days, some say detectable at 180 days.

I got the fogger and it brought my RH to 72 with lights off. Once a week nuclear sprays ( Avid, Akari, Tetrasan, Pylon , Forbid) with Met 52 during the week and high RH should do it. Holding off on the Forbid until I have more healthy leaves on the PK.

I

 

[beta]

I had success completely eliminating a full-on HRM infestation with nothing but horticultural oil in a fogger. I used JMS @ 60ml per gallon, but any brand (Suffoil, etc) should work just as well. By the time I noticed I had them they were pretty well established (I could find at least a few on every leaf I scoped), and I didn't try any other treatments.

HRM are easy to kill, it's the re-infestation that gets you. Horticultural oil is basically inert so it can be used liberally and often. The mode of action is physical suffocation, so they can't develop a resistance to it. I hose down every plant and every surface very thoroughly every 4 days. It has 100% kill rate against all life stages, including eggs. It's only as effective as your coverage, though, so a fogger is crucial.

I have a good digital microscope and I could only find corpses the day after my first spray. I've been treating for about two months now. Once in the first week I found a single solitary live straggler after scoping for almost an hour, but that was probably from re-infection or a missed spot spraying. Since then, I haven't seen anything (corpses or otherwise), but I'm continuing to spray JMS regularly and still heat treat rooms heavy when they're empty between cycles.

 

[Trich_Tyson]

JMS is a fantastic product. I️ used t during my battle with PM to get my crop thru harvest. It was the only thing to work during flower. Will always be in my arsenal

 

[igrowone]

I had success completely eliminating a full-on HRM infestation with nothing but horticultural oil in a fogger. I used JMS @ 60ml per gallon, but any brand (Suffoil, etc) should work just as well. By the time I noticed I had them they were pretty well established (I could find at least a few on every leaf I scoped), and I didn't try any other treatments.

HRM are easy to kill, it's the re-infestation that gets you. Horticultural oil is basically inert so it can be used liberally and often. The mode of action is physical suffocation, so they can't develop a resistance to it. I hose down every plant and every surface very thoroughly every 4 days. It has 100% kill rate against all life stages, including eggs. It's only as effective as your coverage, though, so a fogger is crucial.

I have a good digital microscope and I could only find corpses the day after my first spray. I've been treating for about two months now. Once in the first week I found a single solitary live straggler after scoping for almost an hour, but that was probably from re-infection or a missed spot spraying. Since then, I haven't seen anything (corpses or otherwise), but I'm continuing to spray JMS regularly and still heat treat rooms heavy when they're empty between cycles.

thank you for this post
i've used as part of mix with some other essential oils
the stuff works, you do have to be patient, but it works
what i see used for mites boggles my mind
suffice to say, i'll never buy bud from a dispensary while i can still grow

 

[The Joker1]

Pest Fighter ( Horticultural Oil) knocks them back but doesn’t kill them in the soil or eggs. I do love it though, I’ve had issues with leaf health after weeks of spraying every 3 days.

The best advice I’ve had is not from forums but from non stoner pros. UC Davis ... agricultural research ... phone calls to companies.

Here’s a study of Met32. 75-80% humidity and more effective after continuous applications. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4535486/

So far so good for me. Treating the soil with Met ( where the humidity is high)and Monterey Pest Fighter ( Horticultural oil) on the leaves after all the nukes. Clones look great after 8 days and were treated with Met 32. Higher humidity also seems to make the leaves happy.

 

[810FireFarm]

i once had a fight with the hemp russets mites, rode in inside a bag of foxfarm soil...no question this is where they came from.....only thing new into room in over 3 months was the 1 bag of soil, boom russet attack within days
Anyways, natural remedy sprays slowed the attack but did not stop it......finally used a miticide with abemectin as active ingredient (last resort for preserving the genetics), used as a foliar spray on clones taken from the infected mothers where the tips had not yet began curling as bad like the rest of plant.....sprayed the clones 2 times in the first week (in aerocloner) followed by a tap water spray down the following morning...The clones pulled through healthy and no signs of the mites since then.....all the sick mothers got placed carefully into garbage bags and thrown out along with the clothes and materials used to clean the rooms out that night. those clones got planted into cups of promix, and then were recloned....those clones were planted into new clean cups of promix and then recloned again.....finally the last clones once rooted are now the new mothers and bug free ever since.....also never bought foxfarm soil again

 

[beta]

Pest Fighter ( Horticultural Oil) knocks them back but doesn’t kill them in the soil or eggs. I do love it though, I’ve had issues with leaf health after weeks of spraying every 3 days.

Either you didn't use a fogger or there's something special about JMS because I got 100% kill, eggs and everything, with my very first spray using nothing but horticultural oil. Couldn't find anything the next day but orange-ish corpses. I have a great scope, can positively identify Aculops cannibicola with my eyes half closed, and looked for loooooong time. If you spray every 4 days you don't have to worry about any in the soil or in the room because you're killing them before they even get comfortable.