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heat and penetration

G

Guest

man I know windows are where its at, they are also 300-400 LESS for the initial buy than portables. problem is I need the entire room, I cant even sacrifice 3x3 for the AC. I have very good temps, like meduser, and with c02 I may not even need ac.

well I have no attic. so anything involving that is not an option. what I am leaning towards is figuring out a way to vent into the bathroom. there is no need for ac or heating where I live, so maybe I could take off the little vent screen thing and vent into the house's main ventilation system? and of course I can seal off the vents in the bedroom so the hot air doesn just return.

thanks a ton for the suggestions.. still a work in progress
 

BabyHughie

Member
Just remember, using the houses central air to cool your grow is gonna be way less efficient than using a seperate AC. Option A is sounding real nice to me given your situation. That is IF you even need the AC!

Do you know how your going to duct the cooltubes at this point? Mainly where are you going to exhaust the heat, but you also need to figure out where your going to pull air from too. Exhausting the heat into the bathroom (and then using a fart fan or just the bathroom window as a passive exhaust) sounds like a good option.

But if your using the entire room, you still need to figure out where to pull air from. Which may entail a hole in the wall, BUT dude don't trip on that man! Drywall repair is EASY!!!

That is of course if you go sealed. With your outside temps it may be better to go vented and pull air from the window (passively) somehow. Figuring out to do that while keeping it light proof might be a bit of a challenge. :chin:

HAHA room design, got to love it. I was just here a month ago.
 
G

Guest

I am not talking about using the central AC, I am talking about sealing it off in the room and venting the window ac thru the central ac duct in the bathroom.

I know drywall repair is easy, my issue is with a 24 hr notice. cause then i have to fix it, paint it, and maybe stick a poster over it.. with necessary dry times etc.. thats just pushing the envelope.. cause then you'd have to tear down too.. just another wrinkle i wont care to mess with unless I own the place


on the topic of ducting I plan on using insulated ducting. its about double the cost but I have had problems with ducting from 2 difference sources, both had numerous very small holes the size of a grain of sand, and when you stood at the right angle next to the light you could see them all - this cant be efficient.

if im using a sealed room and providing c02 why do I need to worry about where im pulling air from? I cant think of a way to passively pull in from the window while keeping it light proof. I could have a fan bringing it in from the bathroom window, but id rather not if I can.

yea man, I am slowly making progress with this room design. lots to consider. but I have to start ordering stuff or it wont get here in time.
 
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BabyHughie

Member
the lorax said:
I am not talking about using the central AC, I am talking about sealing it off in the room and venting the window ac thru the central ac duct in the bathroom.

I know drywall repair is easy, my issue is with a 24 hr notice. cause then i have to fix it, paint it, and maybe stick a poster over it.. with necessary dry times etc.. thats just pushing the envelope.. cause then you'd have to tear down too.. just another wrinkle i wont care to mess with unless I own the place


on the topic of ducting I plan on using insulated ducting. its about double the cost but I have had problems with ducting from 2 difference sources, both had numerous very small holes the size of a grain of sand, and when you stood at the right angle next to the light you could see them all - this cant be efficient.

if im using a sealed room and providing c02 why do I need to worry about where im pulling air from? I cant think of a way to passively pull in from the window while keeping it light proof. I could have a fan bringing it in from the bathroom window, but id rather not if I can.

yea man, I am slowly making progress with this room design. lots to consider. but I have to start ordering stuff or it wont get here in time.

because the cool tubes still need to draw air from SOMEPLACE :joint: If they pull air from the room, then your room is not sealed. Feel me?

On the pulling air from the window I was saying if you DON'T go sealed, you may be able to use the outside air (since you have good temps) to cool down your grow instead of an AC. Just lots of venting.
 
G

Guest

sure its sealed, its just re-cleaning and re-circulating the air thats already in the room, and with the c02 additive, stale air would not be a problem.

thanks again

man, I have this sweet dutch of some pretty damn good organic romulan all twisted up and I cant find any lighters. we must have a dozen but i cant find any. :pointlaug
 

-VT-

Voluptuous Trichomes
Veteran
I'm stayin' bare bulb...next summer I'm doing window AC and CO2

Good thing about Co2 is that the temps need to run higher anyways.....from what I've read....cool temps and CO2 is a waste....I have read that temps need to be at 78F with CO2....certainly one can get by with higher temps with CO2 (effectively reducing cooling costs)....

Romulan is good stuff.....
 
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BabyHughie

Member
the lorax said:
sure its sealed, its just re-cleaning and re-circulating the air thats already in the room, and with the c02 additive, stale air would not be a problem.

thanks again

man, I have this sweet dutch of some pretty damn good organic romulan all twisted up and I cant find any lighters. we must have a dozen but i cant find any. :pointlaug


lorax bro I don't think your hearing me man. I do not care about stale air, thats not what Im saying at all.

You said you are using cool tubes, right? If you are using cool tubes, you have to have a fan hooked up to them sucking air through the tubes and across the bulbs. That air has to come from SOMEWHERE! AND it has to go somewhere else too!! Right? If your just circulating it in the room then there is no point of even having cool tubes! Just go bare bulb and get the extra lumens.
 

MTF-Sandman

OG Refugee
Veteran
^^Actually there is a point to running the cool tubes in a sealed setup and recirculating the air from them...

It'll still lower the temps at the canopy so that the lights can be closer...it just makes the AC handle all the heat from them after it's been sucked from the lights and dumped into the room instead of at the canopy level.
 

BabyHughie

Member
MTF-Sandman said:
^^Actually there is a point to running the cool tubes in a sealed setup and recirculating the air from them...

It'll still lower the temps at the canopy so that the lights can be closer...it just makes the AC handle all the heat from them after it's been sucked from the lights and dumped into the room instead of at the canopy level.

OK granted it WILL lower canopy temps yes, but damn for the $400 they cost for 3 of them I damn sure want to get my money out of them, ya know.

All your doing is displacing the heat throught the room if you do that. For the cost of cool tubes I would like to remove the heat from the room entirely.
 
G

Guest

I can get cool tubes for 50 a pop, if you're payin 400 for 3 you're not shoppin around.

displacing the heat is what allows the bulb to get close to the girls, and thats also why you need AC in a sealed environment. if you are venting out its not sealed and you are wasting c02, unless you rig it to exhaust out only during night cycle but im not sure i see the point. if i remove the hot air from the room entirely im also removing c02 which defeats the point of adding c02.

I have just heard that c02 allows for higher temps, I wasnt aware it needed them to work properly. to clarify I have heard 77-78 is optimal for the girls and was planning on running @ that temp anyways.

but its kind of a moot point, something just came up and I am gonna probably be stuck with 2 regular 1ks due to $ restrictions as they are 250/pop with tube.. and may not need ac anyways, which I certainly hope not because I didn't get comped some $ I was expecting. I will just veg under 1 of the 1ks and probably exhaust out to avoid need for ac.

which is funny because it makes this a somewhat moot thread up to this point, but still some good info .. hughie I think we are debating the definition of sealed room..
 
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MTF-Sandman

OG Refugee
Veteran
It is possible to run a sealed room with air cooled hoods...you just need a dedicated intake and exhaust for them. That's the optimal way to remove heat and keep it sealed for CO2...but yes AC will probably be needed with a multi-KW setup in summer even with that...and possibly the rest of year if you're in a warm climate.

I have just heard that c02 allows for higher temps, I wasnt aware it needed them to work properly. to clarify I have heard 77-78 is optimal for the girls and was planning on running @ that temp anyways.

Correct...in order to use CO2 efficiently the plants metabolism needs to be increased by raising the temps about 10-15f over the standard golden temp of 75. With this rise in temps comes more nute/water consumption as well as the ability to use the higher levels of CO2 efficiently.
 
G

Guest

md hydro, 19 inch. if you call him and talk to him, he will sometimes work with you especially if repeat customer, like giving 5-10 dollar discount if you dont want the reflector.

http://www.mdhydro.com/cosy4.html

from the drop down list you will see the option for 19 inch for 49.99

however this is 19 inch. some will say its too small, but I have personally used 19 inch from MD hydro with a 1k before.

interesting sandman. sounds like c02 should be used in place of AC, unless temps are way too high.
 
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BabyHughie

Member
-VT- said:
Really? Where?


yes please! Im gonna be in the market for some myself soon :D


Lorax bro all Im gonna say is that I understand the logic, and Im not arguing it. All Im saying, is that this is a BETTER, more efficiant way of doing it.

More efficiant means of venting the lights = less work an AC needs to do = smaller AC that you need (if you need one at all) = more power you could be using for lighting, or just some extra $$$ in your pocket every month!

VT gets his bulb within 6" I believe with bare bulb. When I had mine hooked up barbulb for a day, I had the plants within 3 inches! No burning, because I had a honeywell fan keeping the air moving around the bulb. So if all you want to do is get the bulb close to the plants cooltubes (and the light they rob you of) are not even really needed!

I guess I just hook up my aircooled lights in some crazy way or something. I thought thats how everyone hooked them up :confused: Either that or just venting through them.
 

BabyHughie

Member
MTF-Sandman said:
It is possible to run a sealed room with air cooled hoods...you just need a dedicated intake and exhaust for them. That's the optimal way to remove heat and keep it sealed for CO2...but yes AC will probably be needed with a multi-KW setup in summer even with that...and possibly the rest of year if you're in a warm climate.


EXACTLY!!!

Lorax you have seen my grow that is my EXACT design.
 
G

Guest

please tell me how I can use c02 an still vent out the air because i'd love to make all efficiency improvements that I can. with the tube (and window AC) I was able to have girls literally touching the tube.. one of the SDs peaked just barely inside the large batwing reflector that came with that cool tube (was not doing vert, first run, didnt know about it) and it was not a problem. I know it can be done close, but I just want to maximize efficiency. plus with multi 1ks you need to reduce temps as much as possible

suddenly a lightbulb went off and I understand what you mean now, thanks to sandman :respect:

heres the thing. because my spot just changed due to finances.. and I am only going to be using 2k.. I will probably be able to do a tent. I do not call partitioning off part of the room making a tent, I called it walling off the rom with panda plastic.. I guess "tent" is shorter :D so because of a twist in the plot, circumstances have changed, and I will probably end up using your tent idea anyways. rofl.
 
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MTF-Sandman

OG Refugee
Veteran
Hey Lorax don't know if it's already been mentioned, but be careful raising the room temps with a DWC setup as it'll tend to raise the res temps as well...which leads to lower DO levels and slower plant growth. Just something you might need to take into consideration...

You could always route a duct from the AC's output (foil tape it if you're using a window unit) to exhaust on the res though...should keep the temps nice and cool in there.
 

Bonzo

Active member
Veteran
sealed 2k lil over 5' x 6 ' walk in closet:
exhaust/intake for lights:


to roof vent:


fan on right is fan in previous pic it sucks air through 2 sealed 1ks, the in take deal is kinda tricky, i put a hole in the wall went down between the studs through the bottom plate(non bearing wall) and that is a sealed run.



ducting from light/to light on left side of previous pic going into wall, between studs.


holes in bottom plate alowing coolair from under house to cool lights, sorry bad pic:



the fan is a 465 cfm CAN

I just added an intake and exaust for the room to keep fresh air curculating, using 2 465 squirell cage blowers ive had som problems her and ther but for the most part it works well:





the fan in the third pic in the back is hooked to a 50 pound i think CAN scrubber

peace

bonz

nam myoho renge kyo
 
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