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Growroom Electricity and Wiring

avant gardener

Member
Veteran
here's one good way to deter tinkerers:

241520_446791575366992_336520326_o.jpg


on the bright side, these jawns come with a five year warranty, so i may just hook it up to 240 and have a look see what happens.
 

irobot sd

Member
It's hard to tell by the picture but someone may have already tried that from the looks of it. It appears the neutral is burnt on the left side and the conductor is showing? Looks maybe even some electrical tape or black labeling to show / represent a hot? Looks line side to me.
 

avant gardener

Member
Veteran
spoke with lumatek.
it definitely only works with 120.
glad i didn't cook them either.
they said they'd trade then out for 1000w dimmable 120/240's for $175 a pop.
here's the kicker though.
they don't want the ballast whole back.
they only want the end plates.
:D :D :D :D :D
 

irobot sd

Member
Yea good thing you didn't try them @ 240v. Is it a very good deal @ 175 per trade out? I haven't paid more than $99 per dimmable when I find them used.. Seems complicated getting only the end plates off, but it seems running multiple 1000's on 120v is stale mate as well.
 

irobot sd

Member
if i have a three phase 200amp panel can i step down to two 150 amp 220 panels.ending up with 300 amps at 220.

Not sure how you figure this but no. It's 3 phase @ 208v
You could run a 100a 120v sub panel off the 200a panel
Believe you will need a transformer for 220v
 

rives

Inveterate Tinkerer
Mentor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Not sure how you figure this but no. It's 3 phase @ 208v
You could run a 100a 120v sub panel off the 200a panel
Believe you will need a transformer for 220v

Maybe I missed something here, but I didn't see anyplace where the inbound voltage was mentioned.
 

rives

Inveterate Tinkerer
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I don't know where you are located, but in the U.S. I have never seen 600v as a working voltage. 600v insulation is very common, and if I remember correctly, 575v is used in Canada. Perhaps 600v is the nominal rating of 575? I think that 575 is also used as a generated voltage for mobile electrical machinery (leTourneau's) and shipboard gear.
 

bignev99

New member
just wondering? i was told i can run 2 #6's red and black, a #8 white, and a #10 for my green total load is <60 amps and total length is 100' .
 

rives

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just wondering? i was told i can run 2 #6's red and black, a #8 white, and a #10 for my green total load is <60 amps and total length is 100' .

Sorry that I missed this. I would stick with a #6 for the neutral (white) wire. Running at full load and that distance, the voltage drop is barely acceptable on #6 wire and half again too much for #8. The ground wire is correctly sized.
 
I

Iffy-Caradoc

Earths??

Earths??



Hi Folks,
Hope someone here can help me.
I'm fitting this consumer unit in my Loftie.
I have the live & common coming in, with an unconnected earth wire.
I have the live out & common out (to the busbar), with an unconnected earth wire.
There is no earth connection on the board, there is however an unused busbar at the bottom.
My question is; What do I do with these earths?
Do I connect them together & spur them to an earth strap? Or doeas each one have to be earthed seperately?
Looking forward to your comments :tiphat:
 

rives

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I don't have the slightest idea what the electrical code calls for in Great Britain, but on this side of the pond you would need to connect the two earth wires together to insure that you have good continuity throughout. There are a number of ways that can connect them, but your existing spare buss will work very well. The enclosure appears to be plastic or a composite, so there is no way to ground that. In the US we would not connect a ground rod (spur them to an earth strap?) at this point if the sub-panel was in the same structure as the main panel.

Hopefully if there are any differences in the code for you, someone will jump in.

*edit* I saw your other post, and I believe that your RCCB breaker will work fine hooked up like this. A little research shows it to be the same as our GFCI breakers, which are used to protect against very low levels of current leakage to ground. They function by comparing the current balance between the phases and the neutral, and if an imbalance exists, the breaker trips. Leakage to ground (earth) is assumed, not measured, because if there is an imbalance in the phases that is where it has to be going.
 
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I

Iffy-Caradoc

Brilliant Rives, just what I needed to know.
You see I was under the impression that the circuit breakers worked by testing the earth. So by joining them together I was bypassing the consumer unit, which is what threw me.
They clearly work by comparing the phazes & the neutral as there is no accomodation for earth. I can crack on now mate, thanks again.
Stay safe.
 

overbudjet

Active member
Veteran
This one is for Rives .Hi since the new rules are out (Mmar end of growing license in 15 month)I will upgrade power from 5000 watt total load 2400(4 x 600)light feed by 8/3 40 amp breaker to around 8k watt 6k of light (8x 600 plus 2x 400)may i just add another feed line 8/3 40 amp breakers to my box or i have to upgrade to 6/3 feed line

Money is not an option safety is! What is the better for you!As i have already say this system will be in use only till 3/31/2014 after that i will return to what i am doing now .Fuck Hytler sorry HARP....
 
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M

macncheese

So not only did I accidentally order two ballast kits instead of the one that I intended, they are both designed to run on 480v only. My house has 120v outlets.

Can I run one with a transformer of sort?
Or should I just buy a new ballast?

I spent like $140 on them and am kinda bummed.
 

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