Growroom Electricity and Wiring

[ckingknowledge]

So two of those T104s? one for each?

 

[rives]

So two of those T104s? one for each?

Each T104 is capable of a single timing cycle, so if you need two different schedules, you will need two of them.

 

[overbudjet]

Overbudjet, you're project is looking really interesting! I'm currently in the process of building up a new area (sloooowwly) which will be controlled by a micro-plc, but the Growtronix gear looks like it pretty economically handles a number of things that the re-purposed industrial gear doesn't handle readily (messaging, historical charting, etc). Have you started playing with the software yet?

i run GT soft since 5 years i was pretty amaze that no more people use it?you are able to do anything with it!Multiple output controling everyting you want base on what you want.
EX:if smoke sensor go on in groowroom compu do lot of thing first cut main power off from this box

second cut water inlet and third send me a text message.Automatic extinguisher will be added shortly ;anyway room is also almost fire proof 3layer of gypsum all covered in white tile.Wife want it this way(fire/flood/stranger proof)so as every old man know
HAPPY WIFE HAPPY LIFE
It give you control of everything and makind your life easyer, living all your time to take care of all your girls.

 

[avant gardener]

spoiler alert: this post is probably misclassified. that's ok though. a lot of solid dudes read this thread, so maybe one of y'all can point me in a direction.

overview: my sub is popping daily. it's not a short. it's definitely a load issue. i'd run a bigger service, but i'll be done with this space before i could really justify the investment and the time. i'm looking for a way to cheese it for a couple more runs. for our purposes, lets say that i have 3 lights and enough circuit breaker to run 2 of them.

query: i've heard guys talk about flip-flop lighting. how does this work? can you recommend a good thread that talks about it? say i cut off lamp#1 for the first 4 hours of daylight, lamp#2 for the next 4 hours, and Lamp#3 for the last 4 before lights out. will this setup somehow give me comparable results to running all 3 lights at once, or is it basically the same as removing one of the lights? i'm really curious about this.

secondary query: you guys know of anything else that will keep me from having to build a new main for a little while longer?

tertiary query: anyone know where i can pick up a 150 amp branch breaker for a siemens panel? i've checked the interwebs and local supply houses. no dice yet.

damn.

 

[overbudjet]

If you are able to add 1 more bulb,so 2 ballast and 4 bulb (instead of 3 ballast and bulb)on flip you will never run more than 2 bulb at once.Sequential lighting will be possible (cycle each bulb off for 4 hour)but will not give you more light over your girls than a simple flip flop and will be more costly.These 2 setup equal 2 ballast ,but with better light spread

 

[avant gardener]

thanks ob.
sounds like you're telling me that flip flop is essentially the same as spreading my lights out and turning one off. do i understand you correctly?

i've already got x lamps and x ballasts.
it's actually a few more than 3.
i'm definitely not going to go buy more lamps.
i'd just build a bigger service if i were going to spend the money.

 

[rives]

AG, I think that Overbudjet's point was that you needed an even number of lamps/ballasts to flip-flop everything. It might be worthwhile to pick a couple of lamps in the middle of a run (oxoxo, x's are the lamps on a flip) so that the girls would still be side-lit when their particular lamp was off.

 

[avant gardener]

word.
i do happen to have an even number

think it'll fuck things up if there's a minute or two of darkness every 4 hours when they cycle? it's that draw from the igniter that's popping things to begin with.

 

[rives]

I doubt that it would bother anything.

 

[overbudjet]

thanks ob.
sounds like you're telling me that flip flop is essentially the same as spreading my lights out and turning one off. do i understand you correctly?

Yes

 

[Tyga]

Just a quick question, Just picked up a portable AC 11K Btu, and yesterday i tripped my breaker when I had the fan on high. I understand that if the fan is on high it's most likely pulling more power than if the fan sitting is on low. But would I be pulling more power if I set the set temp @ lets say 62 degrees instead of 68? Will this cause the unit to power off once the ambient room temp reaches the set point? Or will it make the air that's being blown out colder?

 

[rives]

Perhaps the newer a/c units work differently, but as far as I know they all achieve the temperature set-point with the duty-cycle of the compressor. That is, the air coming out is one temperature and the compressor's run time is varied in order to achieve higher or lower temperatures in the room.

If you can run the unit successfully on low but not on high, I would think that either a) the circuit is loaded to the eyeballs and you pushed it over the top with the high fan speed or b) the breaker is overloaded to start with and the high speed was enough to get it to trip. Breakers have a time/current function, meaning that they will usually run a very long time if overloaded just a bit. They will trip much sooner under high overload conditions or high ambient temperatures.

 

[farmhouse cat]

You are going to need some fuses for the disconnect but there may be some there already - they may be in the back side of the black insert that you pulled out to show the connection points. There should be two, one for each hot leg, and they will go into the semi-circular clips on the outboard side of each wire and extend from there down into the lower clips on each side. The 30 amps written on the insert is a maximum, you can use a lighter fuse as long as the dimensions are the same.

The unit i bought here http://www.acwholesalers.com/Mitsubishi_Mr_Slim_mitsubishi_air_conditioner_p/11294.htm calls for a 15 amp max breaker. It also doesnt come with a whip. It says AWG14...is that just #14 romex? Do i need 3 or 4 wire? Also.......

I was trying to buy 15 amp fuses for the disconnect box and the worker there kinda threw me for a loop. He said is it time delay fuses? "I said aww shoot i dont know"

came home and heres is what the manual says.....

OUTDOOR UNIT
Power supply (V, PHASE, Hz) 208/230, 1, 60
Max. Fuse size (time delay) (A) * 15


here is the manual

https://www.acwholesalers.com/v/vsp...shi_MSY-MSZ-GE06-18NA_Installation_Manual.pdf

Thanks for any help guys...

 

[rives]

FC, you want 15a time delay fuses. 14/2 w/ground wire looks like what it calls for - they are only showing L1, L2, and a ground wire, no neutral. The romex will have 3 wires in it, but it is called 14/2 w/ground. The black and white wires will be insulated and the ground wire is bare. The white wire should be taped over with black or red phase tape to indicate that it is not being used as a neutral.

 

[farmhouse cat]

Thanks Rives... also back a page or two i showed a pic of the disconnect box. Its wired with the black and red wires i think thats 240? do i need to change that at all?

 

[rives]

The disconnect appears to be wired with the red & black making up 240v on the fused connections, and the white wire is landed on the neutral buss. You wouldn't need to connect to the white wire, just the red, black, and ground.

 

[farmhouse cat]

Thanks for the help my friend..

So the romex will have 3 wires. black romex wire goes to black wire terminal (screw) in disconnect box , and white to red? Then ground wire to?

Sorry if its retarded but i am new to this...lol

 

[rives]

Thanks for the help my friend..

So the romex will have 3 wires. black romex wire goes to black wire terminal (screw) in disconnect box , and white to red? Then ground wire to?

Sorry if its retarded but i am new to this...lol

View Image

Black to black, white to red (tape the white wire with black tape covering the white insulation on both ends, indicates it is not being used as a neutral), and the ground wire to the short buss with the existing white & ground terminated on it. That white wire really shouldn't be there - neutrals and grounds should only be bonded together at the main panel, but it doesn't make any difference in your application since you aren't using a neutral.

 

[farmhouse cat]

Thanks Rives. I got it now!

 

[smoke_tayo]

i have a 20amp 220 line. would like to run 2 600s at 220, but all the other equipment, like fans, controller, etc are 110.

if i cannot run a new 110 line in, what would be the next best solution? i was thinking of getting a step down transformer, from 220 to 110. if so, how many watts would i be limited to on this 20amp 220 circuit? i know 3520w would be 80% of the 20amp circuit when running 220. after two 600s i would have 2,320w to spare. so if i were to use a transformer to power about 1000 watts of 110v equipment in that same circuit how would that contribute to total load? would i have 1320 extra watts, or would transforming that 1000w from a 220 to 110 change the load capacity?

thanks!