Growroom Electricity and Wiring

[madpenguin]

DIY Light Controller

DIY Light Controller

Light controller moved to next page due to image limit per post....

 

[burnedout]

O.K.... Here is a finished controller. I need to tally up all my receipts but it cost me more than I thought it would. Mainly because I'm pretty anal and wanted it to look good as well as be safe. I'm going to rough estimate that it cost me 120 to 150 tops. I'll amend this post over the weekend and post a crap load of pictures during the build along with instructions. Actually, I'm waiting on a ratchet crimper to arrive via mail so really it's stripped on the inside.

Soon as I get my crimper, I'll add to this post and throw up all my pictures plus step by step instructions.

The timer on the right controls ALL receptacles because it's hooked up to the center contacts of the relay. When the timer comes on, the green motor control light comes on...

I know a lot of people, myself included, can't wait to read this.

 

[stork]

first, thank you so much MadP! you are da man! i do have a couple more questions, sorry... you did explain everything very well and i appreciate it!

As far as getting the 30A receptacles.... I wouldn't worry about it. Just make sure you use the "spec grade 20A receptacles". The NEC says your receptacles have to be rated the same as the wire and breaker but if you insist on using 30A receptacles, you'll probably have to snip the manufactured male plugs of your ballasts and rewire them with a 30A plug so it'll mate with your new 30A receptacle.

ok... i thought everything had to be rated the same... that was confusing me.... but you say get 20A receptacles here and later you say 15A receptacles.....(see below)

So.... Yes... Just run 10/2 to a 6-15R receptacle. The black to the black in the WH40. The white of the 10/2 to the red in the WH40. wrap some black or red electrical tape around the white wire at both ends.

my plan was to get two 6-15R duplex receptacles to plug my 3 1Ks in. i think i can get those at the grow store. if not i will just wire in three 20A receptacles.

You can still keep your 2 - 120's and add a 240 is what I'm saying. If you wanted to ditch the 2 -120's and use 3 new 240's.... Then your only going to be drawing around 15A and the neutral will be used for nothing.

wow! so i can still run some 240 and 120 off the same timer? so ultimately i would like to have - controlled by the timer - two 6-15R duplexes and one 120V duplex. occasionally i will run a 430W light as a "pre-flower" area when my veg tray gets over run. so i figure three 1k lights at 240 for 15 amps and one 430W light at 120 for 3.6A for a total of 19Amps.

ok... my quesiton is how to wire it all up. like i said i have a 10/3 running from the dryer plug to the grey box timer. i was going to run 10 gague wire from the timer (ground, red and black hots) from there i was going to pig tail them to either two 6-15R duplex or three 20A single receptacles. do i need to continue the 10 gague wire from the pigtails to the receptacles? can i use 6-15R duplex?

Then i was going to run some 12/2 wire from the timer (white - neutral, black - hot and ground) to a 120v duplex. will this work? thanks!

 

[madpenguin]

ok... i thought everything had to be rated the same...

It does. I keep trying to reach a happy medium with you guys about it and in the process am giving advice that goes against the NEC.

that was confusing me.... but you say get 20A receptacles here and later you say 15A receptacles.....

I actually meant to say 6-20R and not 6-15R... That was my mistake. If you guys are going to be using #10awg feeders on 30A breakers, then you should try to use #10 awg throughout your entire electrical system. The problem arises when you try to use a 6-30R receptacle. It's a big boy and no ballast power cord is going to plug into it. So instead of snipping all your ballast cords and re-wiring with a 6-30P, you need to use ATLEAST 20A rated receptacles. So in the case of 240v plugs on your ballasts, use a 6-20R, AND you really need to try and use #10 the whole way, right up to the receptacles.

If you guys can order a ratchet crimper online and use the proper 600v rated #10 lug yellow spade connectors that a #10 will fit into, you can try using #10 stranded. That stuff is WAY more forgiving than #10 solid.

Look at the controller I built above. The receptacle next to the timer is a 5-15R. The 2 receptacles in the left hand gang box are 5-20R's.... The 5-15R is rated for 15A but it's also rated for 20A pass through. So technically, a 5-15R is rated for 20A, you just can't plug a true-blue 20A appliance into a 5-15R because it's missing the horizontal slot on the neutral part of the slot.

my plan was to get two 6-15R duplex receptacles to plug my 3 1Ks in. i think i can get those at the grow store. if not i will just wire in three 20A receptacles.

Try to get 6-20R's instead. Look, it really all boils down to what your ballast power cord plugs will mate with..... Go to page 5 of this sticky. The R's designate receptacles and the P's designate the matching plug that will mate to it. Look at your ballast power cord plug head on and find out what the highest rated receptacle you can get that will mate with it. That's really all you can do unless you want to snip the manufactered plug ends off and wire them up with a higher rated plug, but that seems a little silly. The SJO cord that feeds that ballast is still probably only rated for 15A. In fact, it's probably rated for less than 15A. I also posted the complete NEC section on flexible cords here in this sticky. You can find out anything and everything you ever wanted to know about flexible cords here in this thread, and probably even a lot you don't want to know.

wow! so i can still run some 240 and 120 off the same timer?

Yes. Let me do a wire mock up using a cheap $2 dollar terminal strip to simulate the terminals on your WH40 and I'll show you how to run 240 and 120 loads at the same time. Timed or not timed, doesn't matter.

so ultimately i would like to have - controlled by the timer - two 6-15R duplexes and one 120V duplex. occasionally i will run a 430W light as a "pre-flower" area when my veg tray gets over run. so i figure three 1k lights at 240 for 15 amps and one 430W light at 120 for 3.6A for a total of 19Amps.

Sounds good. You still have 5A left you can utilize on that run. Are you going to want an always on receptacle that is fed from that dryer plug or do you just need all timed receptacles?

ok... my quesiton is how to wire it all up. like i said i have a 10/3 running from the dryer plug to the grey box timer. i was going to run 10 gague wire from the timer (ground, red and black hots) from there i was going to pig tail them to either two 6-15R duplex or three 20A single receptacles. do i need to continue the 10 gague wire from the pigtails to the receptacles? can i use 6-15R duplex?

Then i was going to run some 12/2 wire from the timer (white - neutral, black - hot and ground) to a 120v duplex. will this work? thanks!

I sort of just answered most of that above. In my DIY Light Controller above, I'm going to use #10 EVERYWHERE. I'll probably also yank that 5-15R next to the timer and replace it with a 5-20R just like I have on the other side.

30A breaker ----> 10/3 30A rated wire -----> #10awg 30A wire out of the timer to 20A rated receptacles. That's about as safe as your going to get it.

 

[Zoolander]

I need to hook up 220 but can't have it done in the middle of a grow so I may have to figure it out

 

[madpenguin]

I need to hook up 220 but can't have it done in the middle of a grow so I may have to figure it out

I kind of just answered this on the last page. And multiple other pages.

 

[madpenguin]

A couple quick ones.... I'm going to run Co2 and have been thinking about controllers. When I see wiring diagrams they have them ran piggy back off of a surge protector. Green air ct-dh-3p 15A as an example. Could you give me an explanation as to why and why not one would use a surge protector?

Just to protect your expensive equipment. It's not required.

Went to wire a power cord on a Fantech HP2133 with a standard 16G 13A plug expecting the wiring t be similar to a vortex but I was wrong. There is'nt a location to terminate the ground? Does it use an ungrounded power cord?

It's possible the motor is double insulated therefore doesn't need grounding. If the housing is all plastic and you see no metal parts anywhere then that's like what's going on. Without a spec sheet, wiring diagram or actual pictures, I really can't say for sure what's up with it.

 

[madpenguin]

NEMA 6-20R Receptacles

NEMA 6-20R Receptacles

I order from this place often when ever I have large Low Voltage jobs to do... They have the duplex 6-20R's (along with a crap load of other stuff).... Don't know why I can't find them anywhere in town....

http://www.onestopbuy.com/leviton/5822-W-7616.asp

 

[madpenguin]

ok... my quesiton is how to wire it all up. like i said i have a 10/3 running from the dryer plug to the grey box timer. i was going to run 10 gague wire from the timer (ground, red and black hots) from there i was going to pig tail them to either two 6-15R duplex or three 20A single receptacles. do i need to continue the 10 gague wire from the pigtails to the receptacles? can i use 6-15R duplex?

Then i was going to run some 12/2 wire from the timer (white - neutral, black - hot and ground) to a 120v duplex. will this work? thanks!

Also remember AT ALL TIMES that we are mixing and matching gauges of wire here which is a BIG no-no. The NEC expressly forbids it!!!! If you only use #14 to the 15A receptacle, then please always beaware that it's limited to 12A. Again, with your 2 20A duplex receptacles, we used #12 solid. Make sure that each receptacle will never see more than 16A.

But you've got an even more overall concern and that's to also make sure that the #10 wire used throughout never sees more than 24A.........

ALWAYS keep a constant vigil on your loads when mixing and matching wire gauges, breakers and receptacles. If you don't, the chances of a fire are all but certain. In fact, I'll gurantee that thing will go up in flames if you don't keep an eye on what you plug into that. What you really should do is use #10 EVERYWHERE and atleast use spec grade 20A receptacles everywhere. That will GREATLY reduce the risk of something catching on fire or melting down. In fact, I will all but guarantee it'll be 100% safe if you use #10 everywhere and try to limit the use of the spade connectors. Working with that much #10 is going to be a bitch tho. It can still be done however...... That was my Public Service Announcement. You guys would be wise to heed it whenever possible.

I'm not trying to be pissy or anything but I wind up repeating the same stuff over and over again. That quote from me is on the page right before this.

I've also explained how to wire up a 240v circuit a slew of times...

Guys, try to read this thread. I know it's huge but the amount of information you can learn will be well worth it. I also get really tired of repeating myself.

I did sort of mess up and say to use a 15A receptacle when I meant 20A, so that's my fault. As I've said, the 15A rated receptacles are also rated for 20A pass through so I guess it's not to big of a deal if you use a 5-15R or a 6-15R... But given the choice, use a 5-20R and a 6-20R instead. They are less prone to failure because they are more "industrial" and heavy duty...

 

[GeorgeSmiley]

Hey MP, thanks for the hard work. After talking with the wife we think we may move in the next few years out to the country. So instead of hard wiring a subpanel like we talked about, I was thinking of making a panel board that I can take with me.

So I need to take the 6/3 feed and terminate it to a range plug? Cross ref your Nema chart on pg 2 I think I need the 14-50r recep. Then I just take the range cord and wire it as the feed to the panel and run my boxes underneath/next to the panel like those fancy timer boxes. Timer and relay are on the way.

The 6/3 run is on a 60 amp breaker. If I use a 50a recepticle, and a 50 amp range cord to the panel wouldn't I have to change the breaker at the main to a 50a and then derate 80% on the panel side? I couldnt find a 60a receptacle/cord.

If not can I have a junction box joining the 6/3 feed and a cord I "make" from 6/3 ser/seu? and nut them together?




Thanks

 

[madpenguin]

Hey MP, thanks for the hard work. After talking with the wife we think we may move in the next few years out to the country. So instead of hard wiring a subpanel like we talked about, I was thinking of making a panel board that I can take with me.

Probably a smart move.

So I need to take the 6/3 feed and terminate it to a range plug? Cross ref your Nema chart on pg 2 I think I need the 14-50r recep.

Yep. There is a 14-60R tho to answer your question below. Finding a manufactured plug and cord tho might be a tad hard to find however. Finding just the receptacle is easy tho. Go to Lowes and look at their range cords. I think the red and black may be #6 and the white is #8 and maybe the ground is either #8 or #10. If that truly is the case, then that range cord should be able to handle 60A.

Then I just take the range cord and wire it as the feed to the panel and run my boxes underneath/next to the panel like those fancy timer boxes. Timer and relay are on the way.

Yep. you'll need to employ overcurrent protection like those timer boxes are made if your going to use 60A tho. I doubt you'll be able to find a 60A relay and hook #6 up to your receptacles.

The 6/3 run is on a 60 amp breaker. If I use a 50a recepticle, and a 50 amp range cord to the panel wouldn't I have to change the breaker at the main to a 50a and then derate 80% on the panel side?

yep. If everything that's going to plug into that timer box is going to be on for more than 3 hours then the max load that box should see is 50A x .8 = 40A

If not can I have a junction box joining the 6/3 feed and a cord I "make" from 6/3 ser/seu? and nut them together?

Oh... I didn't get it at first. You mean bypass the 50A range cord? Why not just take the original 6/3 straight into the panel? You don't want unnecessary splices. Having a junction box really does nothing for portability because your still hard wiring and wire nutting the two cables together.

Remember, you can buy a 14-60R and a 14-60P. You'll need to use straight up 6/3 coming out of the panel and then wire that up to the 14-60P. Your essentially making your own 60A range cord. Then you could plug that into a 14-60R....

 

[stork]

I actually meant to say 6-20R and not 6-15R... That was my mistake. If you guys are going to be using #10awg feeders on 30A breakers, then you should try to use #10 awg throughout your entire electrical system.

cool! i'll use #10 all the way through, even it it is some bulky stuff!

Try to get 6-20R's instead. Look, it really all boils down to what your ballast power cord plugs will mate with....

okey dokey... i haven't even bought the new 240 cords for the ballasts yet..... i think they are 6-15P, based on the catalog from the grow store. will a 6-15P plug into a 6-20R?

Sounds good. You still have 5A left you can utilize on that run. Are you going to want an always on receptacle that is fed from that dryer plug or do you just need all timed receptacles?

no, i don't need an always on receptacle. i actually have more than enough power. i think the guy that lived in this house before was doing the same thing. they dropped a ton of new power in the basement! there are three 4-way receptacles that are each on their own 20A breaker and they are on the same wall a couple feet apart!

thanks so much MadP! you rock!

 

[madpenguin]

cool! i'll use #10 all the way through, even it it is some bulky stuff!

If you use stranded where ever possible, it's actually pretty easy to work with. With stranded however, you'll need to use the spade terminal connections with a ratchet crimper. If you can manage, try to use solid tho.... #10 solid will just fit into a spec grade 20A receptacle. If you try to shepards hook solid #10 and wrap it around a screw terminal on a receptacle then good luck with that endeavor....

will a 6-15P plug into a 6-20R?

Look at the NEMA chart again. The key with that chart is to take the 6-20P and "fold" it over onto the 6-20R (like making a sandwich or something). So take the 6-20P and try to "fold" it over onto a 6-15R..... It won't mate. However, try to "fold" a 6-15P onto a 6-20R. That works because you've got the horizontal slot right where it needs to be.

It's purposefully designed that way so you can't fit a true 20A appliance plug into a 15A receptacle. The 5-15's and 5-20's work the same way. You can fit a vacuum cleaner cord into a spec grade 5-20R, but if you have a 20A appliance with the 5-20P plug on it, it's not going to mate with a 5-15R.... Your missing that horizontal slot on the neutral part of the receptacle with a 5-15R....

 

[madpenguin]

Light Controller.

Light Controller.

O.K.... Here is a finished light controller.

The timer on the right controls ALL receptacles because it's hooked up to the center contacts of the relay. When the timer comes on, the green motor control light comes on...

O.K. I used NEMA 5-20R's on the left because my ballasts are 120v. I actually couldn't find duplex 6-20R's anywhere in town. Just the simplex ones. If you have more than 2 ballasts, that poses a problem. You guys might have to order on line if you need 2 - 240v duplex receptacles in the left hand box.

FROM LOWES:
1 - standard size white double gang wall plate 2 receptacle openings = 1.21
3 - NEMA 5-20R (spec grade) receptacle = 7.47
1 - NEMA 14-30P 4-wire 30A dryer cord = 18.47
1 - 1" metal NM connector to secure dryer cord to enclosure = 1.44
5 - 1' stranded THHN #10 black = 1.90
5 - 1' stranded THHN #10 red = 1.90
5 - 1' stranded THHN #10 white = 1.90
5 - 1' solid THHN #12 green = 1.25
1 - 1' stranded THHN #14 black = 0.22
1 - 1' stranded THHN #14 red = 0.22
1 - 1' stranded THHN #14 white = 0.22
1 - 6 pack of 10-16x1 self tapping sheet metal screws = 1.18
1 - 2 pack of 1" conduit steel locknuts (fits on a 1" NM connector) = 1.18
1 - 100 pack of 4" black cable "zip" ties = 3.46

FROM LOCAL ELECTRIC SUPPLY HOUSE:
1 - standard size white double gang wall plate square decor plus receptacle opening = 3.46
1 - 5 space Cuttler Hammer ground bar kit = 4.89
1 - 6x6x4 gray steel enclosure = 10.16
1 - Green 120v indicator light by 'Ideal' = 7.32
1 - "Tork SS720A" in-wall digital 7 day timer = 23.94
1 - 20 pack of blue 16-14 gauge 600v #10 stud insulated spade/fork terminals = 7.85
1 - 15 pack of yellow 12-10 gauge 600v #10 stud insulated spade/fork terminals = 7.85
2 - Double Gang gray Bell Boxes with 1" side holes = 19.15
2 - 1" connection nipples (to join enclosure and bell boxes) = 4.45
4 - 1" screw-in plugs (to cover unused bell box holes) = 4.33

FROM INTERNET:
1 - DPST 40A relay #W199AX-9 199 = 19.50

SUBTOTAL = 155.12
SHIPPING = 9.00
TAX = 8.92
TOTAL = 173.04

That's actually a tad pricey. That also doesn't include the tools that you'll need such as a ratchet crimper, 1/2" steel drill bit, center punch and dremel tool.

I used stranded #10 THHN every where except for the connections to the center coil contacts of the relay and with the timer. For that I used stranded #14 THHN. All the green grounds are #12 solid.

Here is the 6x6x4 steel enclosure

The inside of it

Here are 2 Double gang "Bell Boxes" with a total of 5 - 1" knockouts. The important thing is that you have knockouts on the side with relation to how you screw the devices into. They are already positioned top to bottom, so notice the knockout on the left and right hand side. Those are the knockouts we'll be using. All the other holes will be plugged and sealed with 1" "plugs". What ever you want to call them.

O.K... Here are some threaded nipples. That may not be the correct electrical term for these. They are nipples because they join 2 boxes and are less than 24".... So I'm going to call them 1" threaded nipples.

Here are the 1" "plugs" I was talking about above. Each Bell Box comes with 2 of them packaged inside. We will be using a side KO for the nipple which leaves us with 4 holes to cover up. So I bought a total of 4 extra to seal up the Bell boxes.

These are 1" steel conduit locknuts. They will thread onto the nipples above along with a 1" NM connector. There were 2 in a pack which is exactly how many we need.

Here is a nipple completely screwed into the Bell Box. These nipples are just barely long enough so really screw them in.

Here is one box attached to the enclosure with the excess holes already plugged. These Bell Boxes come with a green grounding screw. Screw it in a tad because we are going to use it.

Here is the other box attached as well.

I pre-drilled some holes to mount the relay and then used the 10-16x1 self tapping sheet metal screws to attach the relay to the inside of the enclosure. Once you mark your mounting holes, use a center punch to tap a dent so your drill bit won't slide on you.

Here is an inside shot with the relay mounted. You can see the steel locknuts threaded onto the nipples. If your not familiar with relays, look at page 38 of this sticky (Post #570). I'll explain them in great detail....

O.K... Flip it over and cut the excess sheet metal screws off that are sticking out the back. You can try to use some 3/4" screws or maybe even 1/2" screws to avoid cutting the excess off, but I doubt it'll work. The self tapping portion of the screw is at least.... shit... 1/8" maybe? That's before you even hit any threads. I wanted to make sure the threads would completely grab the enclosure so I just got 1" screws and cut the rest off.

Switch over to a rough grained sanding wheel to smooth it down and get all the burs off. You kind of fuck up the back side, but who cares? The back side will be mounted to a wall or plywood anyway.

Get some cutting oil. It's pretty cheap and will save some wear and tear on your fairly expensive bit you'll need to buy below along with making for a slightly easier drill.

This is an HSS coated 1/2" metal drill bit if I'm not mistaken. If this thing was pure titanium, then it would have cost me $500 dollars or more and not $15-$20.....

Here is a steel center punch. Your going to need one of these. That large ass 1/2" drill bit is going to slide all over the place unless you punch an indentation first.

This is the front cover to the 6x6x4 enclosure. I measured from corner to corner both ways and found the center point. Then smacked the hell out of it with my center punch. Drip some cutting oil down the sides of your metal bit and put your drill on it's lowest "torque" setting. When drilling stainless steel or hardened steel, you need a low RPM on the drill along with applying lots of pressure. The cutting oil helps also. Don't be a jackass and drill on your lap either. Once you get so far, the bit will grab the plate and start spinning it around. Get a small piece of ply wood or something and lay it on top of that. Jam both of your knees on either corner and drill that way. That or use some C clamps on a work bench or something.

Here is a green 120V indicator light. It has 2 wires coming out of it. Both are black. It doesn't respect polarity. Either wire can be used as the hot or neutral. Atleast I'm pretty sure about that.

Once you get your 1/2" hole drilled and de-burred, it slides right in and then locks into place.

Here I knocked out a third and final 1" KO that will hold my 14-30P dryer cord. Not only do you need to punch out the center plate, but the surrounding raised "circle" needs to come out as well. It's perforated just like the plate. Use a flat head screw driver and some linemans pliers and try to whack the hell out of it from the side. You'll eventually get all of it out except for 2 little notches of metal. Grind them down so you have a completely circular hole other wise your 1" NM connector will not fit into the hole. Same procedure for the side holes that the nipples go into....

Here is the 1" NM connector installed in the hole I just finished. The dryer cord will come with some sort of connector as well. You can try using it if you want. It shouldn't "stick out" as much as the one below (actually, the one that comes with it may sit entirely inside the enclosure) but I prefer the NM connector pictured below.

Here is a 5 space Cuttler-Hammer ground bar kit. We need to ground out the metal enclosure for safety purposes.

I really screwed up the mounting of this ground bar. Irks the hell out of me that's it's not parallel, but oh well. I also tried to grind some of the paint off before mounting it but that didn't work so well with any of the dremel attachments I had. I didn't use the center punch for the ground bar so that's why it's fucked up.... Use your tools.

 

[madpenguin]

Light Controller Continued

Light Controller Continued

Here is a 14-30P 30A 4-wire dryer cord.

Route it into the 1" NM connector... Or rather don't just yet. It will just get in your way, but keep it handy. You can see that I've already attached both L1 and L2 to each pole of the relay.

Ratchet crimper and wire strippers

DO NOT USE MANUAL HAND CRIMPERS... They will not provide a good enough crimp and you will more than likely burn out those connections with any significant amperage draw. The picture below is a little fuzzy but the ratchet crimper makes an awesome connection. Pull as hard as you might but you won't be removing the spade connector unless you snip it off.

These are butt splice connectors made for #10 awg wire. It's imperative you get ones that are rated for atleast 600v. Don't use the ones from radio Shack. In fact, don't use any connectors unless they specifically say they are rated for 600v. Crimp it onto the incoming stranded green conductor of the dryer cord.

Now take some #12 green solid and "butt" it into the other uncrimped end. Then crimp it down. Leave just enough solid to get you down to the ground bar.

Terminate it underneath a ground screw.

Take another piece of #12 green solid. Terminate one end under the ground bar and route the other end to the grounding screw in the bell box. This is redundant grounding because the nipple and locknut should provide an adequate electrical connection for ground fault current to travel on. But there is nothing wrong with redundant systems so lets jumper the nipple and make sure the bell box is properly grounded....

Shepards hook the bare part of the wire and tighten it down underneath the ground screw.

Do the same thing with the other Bell Box.

You should have 2 free screws on the ground bar. Take 2 pieces of green #12 solid and terminate each one to the ground bar and feed one into each bell box. These will be the grounding leads for our devices......

There is the ground bar completely full now. You'll also notice that I have a short neutral coming off one of the center coil contacts. There is also a black wire coming off the other center coil contact. That will go away so ignore it....

Here is the Tork timer. It's pretty bad ass. Has a builtin NI-MH rechargeable battery in it. Should never have to worry about resetting your timer after a powerout, even an extended one such as weeks even... The black wire is the "power in". The red wire is the "power out". The white wire is the neutral so the digital display can operate on 120v and the green wire is the ground.

Whoa.... What happened. I got tired of taking pictures in stages so I ran all the wire needed but left it unconnected. The next picture has numbers just incase you can't tell where both ends of a wire are....

O.K..... Here we go. I'm going to explain first what needs to be hooked up where and then I'll post more pictures later of everything hooked up.

1.) Always hot feed for the timer - #14 black stranded
2.) Neutral connected to the center coil - #14 white stranded
3.) Timed red #14 stranded connected to other coil. This is just a short jumper like #2 above
4.) This is a red #14 stranded that goes from the 6x6x4 to the double gang box
5.) #10 black stranded going from load out relay screw to left hand gang box
6.) #10 red stranded going from load out relay screw to left hand gang box
7.) #10 red stranded going from load out relay screw to right hand gang box
8.) #10 white stranded going from 6x6x4 to left hand double gang box
9.) #10 white stranded going from 6x6x4 to left hand double gang box
10.) #10 white stranded going from 6x6x4 to right hand double gang box
11.) #14 white stranded going from 6x6x4 to right hand double gang box

O.K... 3,4 and one of the black wires coming from the green indicator light all need to be wire nutted together.

All the white wires need to be wire nutted together along with the remaining black wire from the green indicator light.

1,4 and 11 in the right hand gang box all go to the timer. red to red. black to black. white to white.

7 and 10 in the right hand gang box connect to a 5-20R receptacle. Red to brass and white to silver.

8 and 5 in the left hand gang box go to one 5-20R receptacle

9 and 6 in the left hand gang box go to the other 5-20R receptacle.

That just leaves the green ground wire in each gang box. You need to make 2 pigtails for each box. Wire nut 2 green pigtails to the incoming right hand gang box ground. One pigtail wirenuts to the timer ground and the other green pigtail connects to the green receptacle screw.

Go over to the left hand gang box. Do the same thing with the green ground there. 2 pigtails... One to each receptacle.

That's it. Your done. carefully push everything in the 6x6x4 and both gang boxes and screw all receptacles and timer in to the gang boxes. Look up at the very first picture with the completed light controller and that's what you wind up with....

O.K.... I had so many fucking neutrals that I was stumped as what to do with them all. They were all stranded and amounted to the equivalent of a #2 stranded.... So... This is what I did. I used some grounding sleeves that you crimp with a pair of linemans pliers:

I used 2 large ones for the neutrals and one small one for the red timer/coil/indicator light wires. There is a short U shaped stranded #10 that joins both crimped neutrals. The small #14 white standed sticking up will wire nut to one of the indicator light wires. The other red #14 stranded wirenuts to the other indicator light wire. I'm going to take some white electrical tape and lightly wrap the neutral crimp points and then find some white heat shrink tubing to go over that. I'll do the same with the red wire crimp only with red electrical tape and a red heat shrink tubing. The crimp sleeves are solid as hell and aren't going anywhere. What you don't want to do is try and use a wirenut to join all those neutrals. It won't work and will be a shitty connection that will pull right apart. I tried it. Forever... Until I gave up and just crimped them into 2 separate groups that are jumpered.

O.k... I'd like to take a quick opportunity to mention that this setup is a multi-wire branch circuit. I've talked about them in great detail throughout this sticky. So... This controller is wired for 120v only appliances. If your ballasts are 240v, then making this thing is going to be easier for you. Your not going to have to screw around with all those neutrals. In fact, you'll have 3 neutrals to join in the 6x6x4 enclosure instead of the rats nest I have now.

When wiring your 240v 6-20R's in the left hand gang box, you would have 2 reds and 2 blacks. All 4 would be #10 stranded and coming off the "load side" of the relay, just like the red and black are now in the left hand gang box. A red on one side of a receptacle and a black on the other side. Same deal with the other receptacle.

Then..... If you wanted the solitary receptacle next to the timer to be 120v to plug a light rail and hood exhaust fan into, you would keep the wiring in the right hand gang box as I have it now. Use a #10 hot and a #10 neutral tied to a 5-20R receptacle.

I'll stress again, ALWAYS use 20A rated receptacles if your working with a 30A breaker and #10 wire. As mentioned before, you "should" be using a 5-30R or 6-30R but your ballasts aren't going to mate with that so we use the next best thing.... A 5-20R or a 6-20R, depending on the voltage of your equipment.

O.K... Continuing on.... Make up your grounds. I took some #12 stranded grounding leads and sniped the ring terminal end off which leaves a stripped end and a spade end. From left to right is the progression.

You need a pair of linemans pliers that have the ground crmip on them. It's the half circle thing. A grounding crimp/barrel/buchannan is shown just to the left:

There is a flanged end on the grounding crimp. Have that facing up so it doesn't just slide through your pliers. The flanged end/lip will keep it in place on the pliers:

Take 2 of your snipped #12 stranded grounding leads and make up your grounds on the left hand Bell Box. I shoved the spade/fork ends thru the nipples and into the 6x6x4 enclosure because it was easier to get all the grounds to line up.

Then crimp them all together. Really squeeze the hell out of your linemans pliers....

Here they are crimped. That's one hell of a connection and they aren't going anywhere.... Make sure you snip the excess off the ends. Maybe not right down to the grounding barrel but close...

Now wrap just enough green electrical tape around the connection so no bare copper is exposed. Notice how I've wrapped my crimped neutral connections with white electrical tape...

Now lets make up our grounds on the right hand side. Strip back some of the ground wire on the tork timer. One side is yellow, the other side is green. Then slightly fan out the tork stranded ground wire and then wrap it around a stranded #12 grounding lead with a spade/fork terminal (the same thing we used on the left hand box).

 

[madpenguin]

Then get your #12 solid ground in there as well.

Then crimp the hell out of it. Also try to snip any excess off like we did on the left hand gang box. Notice above my neutral crimps are wrapped and below my hot coil contact/timer load out/pigtail for the green light has been wrapped with red electrical tape as well.

O.K... Wrap just a little bit of green electrical tape around the crimp to insulate it.

Now I'm going to shrink wrap all my crimps with "electrical" tubing that is made for this purpose. You can get black at your local electric supply house but it may be tough to find in different colors unless you order it from online. I'm really anal so I like to use the proper colors so as to not "re-identify" any wires. It comes in all diameters and shrink ratios (like 2:1 and 3:1).

Here is the right hand gang box grounds that have just been "shrink wrapped".

Here is all the crimps after they have been shrinked wrapped. BTW, a hair dryer or lighter is all it takes to shrink that tubing.

Here I have my neutrals tied back with 2 zip ties along with doing the same thing for the red "timer out"/"coil wire". Also notice I've wire nutted the timer together. Red to red, black to black, white to white and green to green. I purposefully used a red wire for the center coil on the relay because the timer red wire is the "load out". I specifically used a black wire for the feed in for the timer because the timers black wire is the "line in" wire. Makes it simple to wire up.

Here, I shrink wrapped the wirenuts as well. Nothing wrong with overkill. Noticed I used the same color tubing too. This will guarantee that the wirenuts stay in place forever and maintain a secure electrical connection with the wires.

Now, all we have to do is wire up the receptacles. Easy, Easy.... Once you screw the timer down, all your left with is a #10 red, a #10 white and a #12 green, all of which are stranded and have a spade terminal on them. The red goes to the brass receptacle screw, the white goes to the silver receptacle screw and the green #12 goes to the green grounding screw on the receptacle. Then screw it down. Once your done with that you'll have this:

Now take your cover plate with the green indicator light in it. Attach one wire to the red pigtail and the other wire to the white pigtail. Those 2 pigtails were the only ones left loose in the 6x6x4 enclosure. Everything else is screwed down, terminated or crimped off.

Now wire up the left hand gang box. You have a #10 red, a #10 black, 2 - #10 whites and 2 - #12 greens. Look below. The one receptacle I have installed has the red wire on the brass screw, a white wire on the silver screw and then a green wire on the green grounding screw. That leaves a black, white and green wire left. You use those 3 to wire up your last receptacle.

Now wire up the last receptacle. Black to brass (will save your ass), white to silver screw and green to green screw. Screw the receptacle in and you have this:

Now plate both double gang boxes and the 6x6x4 enclosure and you are done! I also have a NEMA 14-30R receptacle sitting next to the plug. FYI, you would run 10/3 to your grow room (old work behind the walls) and run the 10/3 inside a junction box and then terminate the conductors to the receptacle. Plate the receptacle and you have a nice flush mount 14-30R on the wall ready to plug your light controller into. And, ofcourse, you would use a 30A double pole breaker to feed this run.

I just spent upwards to 200 bucks ( and a crap load of time) making this tutorial and I can't even use this light controller. Time to hit Ebay or Craigs List I guess....

Enjoy!

Here I am testing it out by temporarily hooking it up to my dryer breaker. $10 bucks to the first person who can spot the violation with my panel....

And here it is in the dark. I have those outlet testers in either side. The green light really makes or breaks this controller..

Just a little word of warning if you build one or implement a relay in any of your projects. Sometimes when you first fire up a relay, it will make a very loud buzzing noise. It will want to make you turn it off quick for fear of something going wrong. That will "burn off"... Keep it fired up. It's either a light coating of machine oil to keep it from rusting while it's sitting in a dank warehouse or it's some finger oil you got on the contacts. Either way, keep cycling the timer from off to on and back again. Leave it on for a bit, shut it off. The loud buzzing noise will go away completely after just a little bit. You really shouldn't hear anything other than the loud "clicking" of the contacts closing. After it's fired up, it should be almost/perfectly silent...

 

[overbudjet]

hi mad. need your advice on this
some electric
Upper relay for dehu. 2 x 15 amp circuit 110 volts 14/3
Lower relay for lights 2 x 20 amp circuit 220 volts 12/2 3k
black wire are for computer (ssr)controling the coil of each relay 18/2

split box and solid state relay SSR (for switch control by computer)

split box in detail
one 12/3 on 2 x 20 amps circuits (110 v.)max load on these will be around 20 amp 10 on each circuit
splited in 2 switchable outlet one(black) #12 pigitail to 2 #14
and one #12(red)pigitail to 2 #14 one switchable and one constant.

peace to all

 

[overbudjet]

Ah... Makes sense now. Yea. Give it a try. Mount everything in a steel electrical enclosure tho. Make sure all openings are closed. That link even said you might have to use a heat sink because they get so hot. Maybe some Arctic Silver compound and a high grade computer heat sink would be necessary considering the load you want to switch.

Or if you went the SSR --> Mechanical route maybe the SSR wouldn't have that problem. I'm interested now. Let me know how it turns out.

This will help a little

 

[madpenguin]

I need an overall picture to see whats going on. The zoomed in pic of the 4 square is nice. I can tell whats going on there altho your back feeding alot so get's semi confusing. But the wires coming in and going out.... I have no idea where they've been and where they are going.

If you could snap a picture of the entire wall and state what exactally it is that you need help with, I'll be more than happy to try and help.

 

[chr0nicxs]

Good thread, Lot of it over my head! I am running a 400w light using a 10A relay switch but both plugs are into a 3M extension cord with a 13A wire and plug I hope this is ok.. It hasnt set on fire yet lol. Is running a small household exstenion cord for a 400w HID light ok?