-==GROW FAQ SUBMISSIONS==-

[00420]

i've printed hundreds of pages of overgrow faq's at work and have a binder of faq shit... just in case my internet didnt work

anybody need anything let me know

:jawdrop: :jawdrop:

glad more then just me did this ahah im sure we will get a faq fourm soon

 

[BombSquadron65]

Not to be nitpicky, 00420, but do you happen to have the pics that go along with the Nutrient Disorder Problem Solver FAQ? If so that'd be hella awesome! Thank the heavens that you had all that info! All you guys are lifesavers! BTW, I haven't read all the posts yet, (sleep time for bomb man) but do any of you guys have the femenized seeds thread/article? That's a ? that pops up a lot. If not, I'll try and track the info down...

Also, thanks Gypsy and all of the IC Mag crew for allowing us OG scragglers to wander in set up camp. Great site and very comfy "old-school" OG feel.

Anywho, I'm no NIMBY, but I'll help my best in the general indoor and any basic growing info. I'll answer as many noob Q's as I'm capable of.

 

[Guest]

Has anyone mentioned the word "copyright" in this thread?

 

[Wayzer]

Nothing is copyrighted
All this stuff is lost and we're trying to share it again

U should copy and paste it somewhere safe too!!!
never know when u might need it

 

[Guest]

Nothing is copyrighted

On the contrary, everything is copyrighted.
Whether the authors/owners decide to exercise that copyright is up to them, but the copyright belongs to either to RC or the original authors.

 

[whereami]

who cares The Other Chap. its all about helping others. i was building a cheapo-aero cloner if it wasn't for this thread i wouldn't be able to finish it.

 

[sy9942]

Not to be nitpicky, 00420, but do you happen to have the pics that go along with the Nutrient Disorder Problem Solver FAQ?

MyNameStitch duplicated his overgrow thread about nutrient/pest problems on ICMag here: http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=11688
It is complete, with pictures.

 

[Guest]

who cares The Other Chap. its all about helping others. i was building a cheapo-aero cloner if it wasn't for this thread i wouldn't be able to finish it.

I know what you're saying and I agree, but it could create problems for Gypsy having copyright material posted in the forums.

I suspect the legal proceedings following OG's apparent demise won't only be confined to cannabis related matters.
OG's "customer" base is a valuable commodity and whoever has the FAQs and guides is in posession of valuable intellectual property.

I'm sure that fact isn't lost on Gypsy.

 

[00420]

Not to be nitpicky, 00420, but do you happen to have the pics that go along with the Nutrient Disorder Problem Solver FAQ? If so that'd be hella awesome! Thank the heavens that you had all that info! All you guys are lifesavers! BTW, I haven't read all the posts yet, (sleep time for bomb man) but do any of you guys have the femenized seeds thread/article? That's a ? that pops up a lot. If not, I'll try and track the info down...

Also, thanks Gypsy and all of the IC Mag crew for allowing us OG scragglers to wander in set up camp. Great site and very comfy "old-school" OG feel.

Anywho, I'm no NIMBY, but I'll help my best in the general indoor and any basic growing info. I'll answer as many noob Q's as I'm capable of.

sure do but it looks like it been taking care of...


copyright??????????????????

u know anything about that? i do im in the muzic bezzzzz... i know the law's

................... i giveing it free so they can have there part if they dont have it backed up ( or og was thaat back up )
kow they have it again....


and by the waay...... i have every FAQ..... & not only that i have the full strain guide would u like it or not?

i can delete my post and not help? but strain guides are nice

'Cinderella 99' from Brothers Grimm

Lineage: Not Listed
Family: Unknown or mixed family
Origin: Not Listed
Region: Not Listed
Genotype: Not Listed
Indoor Maturation: 50 to 55 days
Outdoor Maturation: Not Listed
Sex Possibilities: Standard (M/F)
Stature: Average size
Yield: 8
Odor Level: Not Listed
Odor Description: Tropical fruit
Taste Level: Not Listed
Taste Description: Not Listed

This strain may be the "Holy Grail". The result of painstakingly backcrossing a very rare female to her male progeny over 3 generations. This hybrid was specifically bred for indoor cultivation. Short-statured & heavily branched, this plant grows long, dense colas with an extremely high flower/leaf ratio and outrageous resin production. The breeder has observed a "giant leap" in potency with each progressive generation and, as expected, Cinderella 99 has topped all previous results - her high is heavily influenced by Haze; clear, energetic & devastatingly psychoactive.

Grower Report - CecilC on July 16, 2003, 6:53 pm [ VIEW FULL GROWER REPORT ]

4 Images Overall Rating: 8 Effect: Somewhat heady
Potency: 9 Stature: Somewhat tall and lanky

Decent sized buds that aren't as dense as some strains. Pistils are thick and curly. Resin production is very nice. Plants stretch a bit in veg with longer than average internodal spacing. Buds fill in well, though. Finishes before most in the garden. She is a voracious eater and can take nute level ...continued



Grower Report - Flowerman on July 20, 2003, 10:16 pm [ VIEW FULL GROWER REPORT ]

4 Images Overall Rating: 8 Effect: Somewhat heady
Potency: 8 Stature: Somewhat short and squat

Very vigorous and great germination rates. Very nice side branching, if topped will grow just as wide as tall. I do recommend topping, tying, and training this plant, because the branches will grow like vines, and are very easy to manipulate. Average node spacing, with a medium to dark green color, ...continued



Grower Report - Kerberos on July 30, 2003, 9:11 am [ VIEW FULL GROWER REPORT ]

6 Images Overall Rating: 8 Effect: All in the head
Potency: 9 Stature: Somewhat short and squat

Grow Info:
This plant was built for SCROG'n or otherwise training. It can be topped, I just train. Vegetation time is varied to your screen control. 2 weeks or less is my approach at this time. Branching on clones is very dense, which later equates into more budsites. Going from seed is as squirre ...continued



Grower Report - CannaMonkey on October 19, 2003, 2:26 pm [ VIEW FULL GROWER REPORT ]

10 Images Overall Rating: 8 Effect: Nicely balanced
Potency: 9 Stature: Somewhat tall and lanky

These seeds were bought through CBay last year and were supposedly from Broths Grimm stock.

This plant was very easy to germinate and clone. I had about 70% females and all of those showed preflowers very early. It was very easy to find the sexes without putting any into flower first.

Vegetat ...continued



Grower Report - dutchgrown on November 8, 2003, 4:23 pm [ VIEW FULL GROWER REPORT ]

8 Images Overall Rating: 8 Effect: All in the head
Potency: 9 Stature: Somewhat tall and lanky

The seeds were obtained from the GN03 Collection and were Cinderella 99 F2s. Very good germination results: 108 seeds germinated out of 130, around a 50/50 male/female ratio. The plants were grown in soil and on an NFT table. They grew easily, heartily; seemed to grow faster in hydro than in soil (a ...continued



Grower Report - Grodawg on June 8, 2004, 3:57 pm [ VIEW FULL GROWER REPORT ]

6 Images Overall Rating: 8 Effect: All in the head
Potency: 9 Stature: Somewhat tall and lanky

This was my first SCROG grow of C99. I had 2 females I kept. The germ rate was 7 of 10. I did a soil grow to produce seed and was able to see what a beautiful plant this is. Classic sativa!! I grew 4 plants in a SCROG Ebb & Flow. The plant has excellent branching, eats up the nutes and is relatively ...continued



Grower Report - High on Fire on June 13, 2004, 4:31 pm [ VIEW FULL GROWER REPORT ]

8 Images Overall Rating: 8 Effect: All in the head
Potency: 9 Stature: Somewhat tall and lanky

These were among the first batch of "Commercial", seeds that I bought back in 2001, and I just got around to doing them myself in 2004. I purchased the seeds from Heaven's Stairway and they are Brother's Grimm originals.

I had 7 seeds left, (I bought two packs all together, the others were given ...continued



Grower Report - dyslexsick on July 28, 2004, 3:43 am [ VIEW FULL GROWER REPORT ]

2 Images Overall Rating: 7 Effect: Somewhat heady
Potency: 8 Stature: Somewhat tall and lanky

Out of 7 seeds I ended up with 3 females, the other 4 were males. One tall lanky pheno, and two short and stocky phenos. These plants were grown in 2002, they were the original F1 seeds from the Brothers Grimm. I studied Mr. Soul’s and Sly’s posts regularly on cannabisworld and Mr. Soul ...continued

 

[NightFire]

SunIsShining's Carbon Scrubber

SunIsShining's Carbon Scrubber

This was never put into the FAQ, I assume it was because SiS just up a disapeared, but it was one of the most viewed and used threads. I can get pics if nobody else has them, I just need to tear my scrubber down and model it. This is a small and efficient cylinder scrubber.

"Yet another addition to the family of DIY carbon filter designs.
I modeled this after the expensive professional filter. It's very simple and easy to build. The only tools required are a screw driver and some wire cutters or snips of some kind.
All the materials were just under $50, here's the rundown:
Hardware cloth ~ $6 (the steel, not the plastic. in the fencing section)
6" & 8" duct caps ~ $4 (one each)
6" duct collar ~ $2
6" x 8" duct reducer ~ $3
Hose clamps ~ $6 (two 6" clamps and four 4" clamps)
Three 28oz jars of Activated Carbon ~ $20 (from the petstore)
Small package of Poly-fill ~ $1.50 (from wal-mart)
Two packages(or two-pair) Extra Queen size black panty hose ~ $2

Round that all up to $45




Ok. First to build the "core", get the hardware cloth out and wrap it around the 6" cap (for sizing, I suppose you could measure instead), and snip. Leave a few inches to overlap to strengthen the seem.
Be sure to snip so as to not leave a row of points, that will undoubtedly poke the shit out of you, not to mention it'll rip the panty hose.
Once the HC is snipped and wrapped around the cap, use a 6" hose clamp to clamp it down. Do the exact same thing on the other end but using the 6" collar - put the crimped end of the collar inside the core, leaving the tabbed end outward.
Cut the legs off a pair of panty hose and stretch each one over the capped ind of the core, stretching them and covering the entire core with two layers.

There are pics missing for a couple of steps, I appologize, my battery kept going out.

So that's the core, it's finished. Oh yeah, I added a 3rd hose clamp in the middle of the core for additonal structural integrity, though it's not necessary.

Next, take the collar-end of the core and set it into the 6" x 8" reducer as shown. Flip it over and tape the collar to the inside of the reducer. I used aluminum tape, but a good quality duct tape should do just as well. Fill in the space between the collar and the core with Poly-fill (batting or anyting of that noture will work just as well).
Once you have that done, it's time to fix the HC to the 8" reducer. Place the 8" cap in the opposite end of the HC for spacing and structure.
Form the HC around the reducer, just as it was done with the 6", and clamp it down using two 4" hose clamp together-running into each other. I couldn't find 8" hose clamps, so I put two 4" together.

Now take the panty-part of the hose, the waste band and whatnot, and stretch it over the outside of the HC. Repeat with the other pair, so you have two layers.

Now for the exciting part, fill it in with the carbon You may need to hold the core at first to keep the spacing even. This will give you a continuous 1" layer of carbon. Perfect.

Leave an inch or two of space and fill in with the Poly-fill.
*Not* At first I built it using the full 24" of the HC, after filling it in with carbon, I was left with about 6" not filled, so I snipped the HC rolls to a couple inches above the carbon line.

Now replace the 8" end-cap, clamp it down, and you're done
To refill, simply loosen the clamp on the 8" end cap, remove the cap, dump the carbon, re-fill, replace cap.


In my bloom room, I'm running a Hurrican 6" 307 cfm in-line. I have it T'd, one line pulling from the sealed, air-cooled hood (which pulls non-stinky air from outside the room through it), and the other line running to the filter. So the filter is actually "underpowered", but that's fine as it allows for slower, more even flow of the stinky air over the carbon. The open design of this filter creates minimal air-flow restriction.

This guy works like a champ, the stinky-ass air that was being blown into the backyard no longer smells at all.:tup:

I'm sure there's a couple things and points-of-interest I'm missing, but I'll get them as I remember:smoker2:

I hope somebody can make use of this, and I hope this is as easy to understand as I think it is.

Forgot to mention...
This filter is a good deal more compact than many of the other designs going around. Not to say that it's better, just more compact. Obviously, it has an 8" diameter, and the overall height just under 2'."

 

[Guest]

Grow FAQ how to tell when to harvest

Grow FAQ how to tell when to harvest

just wanted to add something....

 

[Jnugg]

How Do I Design a Fan Powered Cooling System For My Grow Box FAQ

How Do I Design a Fan Powered Cooling System For My Grow Box FAQ

Introduction:

Every serious growing box needs cooling. Most of us use air cooling because it is cheap and very effective. The following steps are used to design a simple fan-cooled box.

This method does not cover active cooling with air conditioning systems or 'CoolTube' designs. It is for grow chambers where the walls are approximately equal to the light pattern, totally enclosed for airflow control, and do not have large radiant heat into or out of the box. Your mileage may vary some for these reasons.

I also picked sane defaults for growing conditions. The formulas diverge if you get too far out of plant growing range. You should be very safe if you are within about 40 to 150 degrees F and 20% to 90% humidity ranges (those are just guesses). Atmospheric pressure was picked as sea level and doesn't really affect anything until about 5,000 or 8,000 feet depending on how accurate you want to get. If extreme conditions apply to you, there may be other FAQ entries with the entire full blown set of pressure/temp/airflow/humidity parameters.



Design

1) Start at the beginning and design this right! Before you ever buy or cut anything for your new project, determine the highest temp (in F) your intake air will ever be when lights run. Get a thermometer and measure it to make sure you have a good value. Call this T(inlet)

2) Use these formulas to determine difference in temp you can tolerate. 81F (27F) is about the optimal for growing, 86F/30C on the higher end.

Tdiff = 81F - T(inlet) (English)
Tdiff = 27C - T(inlet) (Metric)

3) Add up wattage for all power in your box. Lights, pumps, heaters, humidifier, radio, coffee pot, whatever. Add it all up and call it Watts. This will make your number worst-case and therefore a conservative value.

4) Compute the absolute minimum fan power you will need using the following formulas. This is the minimum fan rating you must have to achieve your temperature goals. You will have to increase fan power to compensate for duct constrictions, small inlets, carbon scrubbers, screens, or other items that block airflow.

CFM = 3.16 x Watts / Tdiff (English)
CMH = 2.98 x Watts / Tdiff (Metric)

The formulas are almost identical, due to the counteracting effects of converting airflow from CFM to CMH, and converting temp from Fahrenheit to Centigrade.

formulas can be found on this web page:

(This web site also lists the above formula and uses a constant of 3.16 as shown above)

5) If you have more than one fan, they should be mounted side-by-side rather than inline if you want to add their different CFM ratings.

For inline fans, use the lowest airflow rating of all fans in the path. A fan on the inlet and a fan on the exhaust of the box are considered inline fans. Fans inside the box should not be counted for airflow but must be included in wattage. A standard computer fan is normally right around 30 CFM (50 CMH).

The two lookup charts solve this equation for common lights. Make sure you get the proper one (English or metric). For those of you who are wondering if you did this right, here are a few numbers in English units :


Watts CFM Tdiff
70 30 7.4
150 30 15.8
150 60 7.9
150 130 3.6
250 130 6.1
250 265 3.0
250 400 2.0
400 130 9.7
400 265 4.8
400 400 2.7
600 265 7.2
600 465 4.1
1000 30 105.3
1000 265 11.9
1000 465 6.8

Note: a 30cfm computer fan is trying to cool a 1000w HID bulb, in the 3rd from the last row, as an extreme example

If you are adding any carbon scrubbers or extensive ductwork, this is where you add to the fan size to account for air pressure losses. You have to move this many CFM, or the numbers don't come out right. The deciding factor for these items depends on your exact configuration and is beyond this discussion.

6) When your box is built, buy a thermometer and measure the air blowing out of the box (temp probe or thermometer should be in the air stream just after the fan, outside of the box enclosure) and the temp of the air entering the box (again, from outside the box perimeter). Make sure there is no direct light shining on the thermometers to ruin the measurement. DON'T MEASURE THE TEMP INSIDE THE BOX YET!!!! It's best to do this with 2 thermometers or a single thermometer with a remote probe. Cheap thermometers don't work well because they aren't very accurate. If you only have cheap thermometers, use the same one for all measurements to avoid accuracy issues.

7) Subtract your measured inlet from measured outlet temp. Compare to Tdiff from above. Is your measured difference as good or better than your estimated from step 2? If not, go find out why. Your problems are probably:

A. Heat source you didn't account for (the ballast?)
B. Your fan is overrated
C. You have blocked airflow
D. Your temperature measurement was inaccurate
E. Air leaks into the box (especially around the fan!) that ruin efficiency.

8) Once you get your measured temp difference equal to step 2, measure temps inside the box. Don't let the light shine right on the sensor, it will give faulty readings!! Use a light shield made from a tin can or something. If temps inside the box are higher than your exhaust temp at a reasonable distance from the bulb, you have air circulation problems inside the box. Get some kind of fan to stir up the air in there or look for airflow paths that allow air to travel from inlet to exhaust without spending any time in the box.

9) Always monitor the temperature difference between inlet and outlet temps every time you water the plants. If it varies much more than a degree or two, find out why. I use digital indoor/outdoor thermometer. It tracks high and low for both locations, outdoor probe is on a long wire, $14 at Kmart. No part of the thermometer is inside the box, just in the measuring air blowing in and out from the outside.

Please note that conversion values have been slightly rounded off to make this easy. Using the metric and english formulas will yield slightly different answers if compared. The difference should be less than one percent and can be ignored.

You can use the two load graphs attached if you prefer to do calculations visually rather than using the formulas listed above. Find the line for your light wattage and ignore all others. Each axis is logarithmic, make sure you count along each axis properly. The formulas listed in step 4 were used to make the graphs.

Sidenotes:

You can measure your fan airflow very accurately if you use a standard trouble light with a 60 or 100 watt bulb in it. These are very good test loads for calibrating things.
Just put it in and work through the formulas using a good thermometer to determine airflow. If you doubt the accuracy of your bulb and are really anal about it, you can calibrate the bulb against your electric meter over several minutes. You could also stick in a different brand of bulb at the same wattage and compare results. I haven't tried this, but I would just trust the bulb until proven wrong.

Testing and measuring duct losses:

Ducting losses are hard (to measure) because they rely on knowing your duct material coefficients. You can measure the losses in the duct after it is built and running, if that would help. You could measure a test section to calibrate that material, then extrapolate. Here's how:

Take a known fan (or the fan you will be using) and blow it into a plenum that has a heat source and some of your sample duct mounted to it. To do this, you need a trouble-light or other low wattage known source and a cardboard box to put it in, then mount the fan on the box and stick the duct on the other side.

Calibrate the box by measuring temps without the ducting, then compute CFM. Add the duct, measure the new temp, compute the new CFM. The difference is duct loss. Basically, use temperature and wattage to measure airflow and compute duct loss.

If you have an existing room, just measure inlet and exhaust temps, add up the watts, and then compute effective airflow. I just did this for my box and it's pretty much dead on. I think it varies by about +/- 0.2 DegF for 150 watts and two computer fans.

Once you have the value for your ducts, you can estimate loss by adding up the length. We would have to come up with adjustment for going around corners.

I once saw a Mech Eng. book that had different shapes of pipe listed (Tee, 45 Deg bends, 4-way branches, Y-branches, etc) and then gave an equivalent length of straight ducting they add for flow resistance.

 

[Jnugg]

How Much Ventilation Do I Need In My Growroom FAQ

How Much Ventilation Do I Need In My Growroom FAQ

Each fan has a rating that tells you how many cubic feet of air per minute (CFM) it will move. When dealing with above average temperatures you will want your fan to exchange the grow room air 3-5 times in one minute, so for a room that is 40 cubic feet, a fan that is capable of moving 120-200 cfm (cubic feet per minute) is recommended. If you only want to replace depleted levels of co2 and are growing in a closet using fluorescents, one room change per five minutes (divide room size by 5) will be adequate.

To calculate your room size, multiply Width by Length by Height, this will give you the CFM rating required for one room change per minute.

Air that’s exhausted will be replaced by fresh air, which is drawn from

Passive Intakes-
located opposite the exhaust at the floor of your grow room (Recommended for closet grows) or forced in using another blower (recommended for larger grow rooms).

For internal circulation oscillating fans are In my opinion the most efficient devices for circulating air in a room. The gentle back and forth sway of the fan is very beneficial for the developing plants. These fans tend to keep anaerobic moulds down by constantly freshening any potentially stagnant air. Home improvement centres carry a large array of various types and styles of air-moving fans, there are wall-mounted styles available and most are relatively inexpensive.

NOTE: To convert CFM to CMH use the folowing formula CFM X 0.03 X 60 = CMH

 

[Jnugg]

The Never Ending Abuse of Phosphorous to Enhance Flowering FAQ

The Never Ending Abuse of Phosphorous to Enhance Flowering FAQ

A common mistake for growers when they reach the flowering stage is to start hitting the plants with a high P fert like 10-60-10, continuing to use this blend exclusively, and when their plants start experiencing a deficit of N or micros as reflected by the dropping of lower leaves and chlorosis, they wonder why. Plants flower as a response to long nights, not because of fert blends high in P. A ratio of 10-60-10 is WAY to high in P. The plant will only take what it needs and compete for other elements that may be more important at the time.

You may have heard that too much N can inhibit flowering. No question about it, exclusive use of a plant food that is rich in N such as blood meal, a 5-1-1 blend, or ammonium nitrate may inhibit flowering especially if the phosphorous level is low, but most balanced blends have sufficient amount of P to do the job. Manufacturers/horticulturists will give you element analysis and what effect the elements have on plant growth, but remember this does not necessarily mean you will get better yields. Using a high P fert exclusively during flowering can actually work against you. It's an abundant amount of healthy leaves going into 12/12 that produce a lot of bud, not high P ferts.

I rotate fert blends as the plant *requires* them, not because it is "the thing to do." For example, when your plants are going thru the stretch phase during early flowering, they may need more N, especially if you're getting some yellowing in the lower/mid leaves. Give up the cannabis paradigms, and give them what they need. Go back to mild high P fert when the stretch ends, maintaining the foliage in a healthy state of growth until harvest for maximum yields. A 1-3-2 blend such as Peter's Pro Blossom Booster, 10-30-20, is one of the best flowering blends on the market because of several factors - it is higher in nitrate N and Mg. It is sold under the Jack's Classic label. An added benefit of Peter's blends is their use of high quality, very pure salts that will cut down on root burn.

 

[Jnugg]

What are Macro-/Micro-Nutrients, and what is each responsible for? FAQ

What are Macro-/Micro-Nutrients, and what is each responsible for? FAQ

What are Macro-/Micro-Nutrients, and what is each responsible for?

Summary of Macronutrients
Macronutrients are the elements most vital to all plant-life. There are three major and most prominent macronutrients: Nitrogen (“N”), Phosphorus (“P”), and Potassium (“K”). All fertilizers contain these three fundamental elements, but in varying amounts, depending on fertilizer type/brand. The N-P-K ratio of the fertilizer will be listed on the side of the container/box in the form of three numbers separated by hyphens (e.g. 20-20-20, etc.); choose a fertilizer that correlates with your specific needs and stage of plant-growth. TIP: In their vegetative state, cannabis plants thrive primarily on “N” and “P”; and in their flowering-stage, “P” and “K” become more essential.


Summary of Micronutrients
Along with the basic macronutrients, plants also require micronutrients (or Trace-Elements) for sustained health and vigor. Some of these trace-elements are Calcium (“Ca”), Magnesium (“Mg”), Sulfur (“S”), Manganese (“Mn”), Boron (“B”), Zinc (“Zn”), and Copper (“Cu”). They are present in most, if not all, fertilizers, but in generally lesser portions than the major macronutrients.


Below is a list of the basic macronutrients and micronutrients/trace-elements, along with the horticultural-benefits and deficiency-symptoms of each:


# Element Name: Nitrogen
# Symbol: N
# Atomic Number: 7
# Atomic Mass: 14.00674
# Horticultural-Benefit: Nitrogen promotes photosynthesis, and is directly responsible for the production of chlorophyll. It stimulates leaf and stem growth, and aids the overall size and vigor of the plants.
# Deficiency-Symptoms: A nitrogen-deficiency can be recognized by reduced growth-rates and yellowing of the leaves (starting with the older/lower leaves). Colder soil-temperatures make nitrogen less-available to plants.


# Element Name: Phosphorus
# Symbol: P
# Atomic Number: 15
# Atomic Mass: 30.973762
# Horticultural-Benefit: Phosphorus aids in the germination of seeds, and the growth of seedlings and roots. It is also vital the production of terpene resins, floral clusters, and necessary sugars and starches. Phosphorus also influences overall vigor.
# Deficiency-Symptoms: A phosphorus-deficiency can be noted by reduced growth-rates and the production of smaller leaves which wilt/drop quickly. The leaves will be a dull, bluish-green, which will turn purplish or bronzy, and will have seared edges. Excessive “P”-levels can initiate a potassium-deficiency.


# Element Name: Potassium
# Symbol: K
# Atomic Number: 19
# Atomic Mass: 39.0983
# Horticultural-Benefit: Potassium is important to your plants for metabolic changes during flowering, and the production of floral clusters. It also promotes general plant-vigor, disease-resistance, and sturdy growth.
# Deficiency-Symptoms: A potassium-deficiency will retard growth-rates, and cause leaf-tips and -edges to become a scorched-brown color, with curled margins.


# Element Name: Calcium
# Symbol: Ca
# Atomic Number: 20
# Atomic Mass: 40.078
# Horticultural-Benefit: Calcium is a key ingredient in cell-walls. It strengthens stems/stalks/branches, and also contributes to root-development/growth, primarily that of the rot-tips.
# Deficiency-Symptoms: A calcium-deficiency can be recognized by distorted leaves, with hooked tips and curled margins. A deficiency would also result in under-developed roots, with weak root-tips.


# Element Name: Magnesium
# Symbol: Mg
# Atomic Number: 12
# Atomic Mass: 24.3050
# Horticultural-Benefit: Magnesium is significant for chlorophyll-production and most enzyme reactions. It is responsible for healthy leaf-structure and -production, as well as sustaining healthy vein-structure in the leaves.
# Deficiency-Symptoms: A magnesium-deficiency will affect various plant-species differently. The most common symptoms in cannabis plants are a vivid yellowing of the leaves, followed by leaves falling without withering, starting with the older/lower leaves. Excessive “Mg”-levels may initiate a calcium-deficiency.


# Element Name: Sulfur
# Symbol: S
# Atomic Number: 16
# Atomic Mass: 32.066
# Horticultural-Benefit: Sulfur, being an ingredient in plant-protiens, is vital for protein-production, chlorophyll-production and vegetative growth.
# Deficiency-Symptoms: A sulfur-deficiency can be identified by retarded growth-rates, accompanied by small, mutated leaves which are round in shape and roll upwards. Leaves will become stiff and brittle, and will fall off. A “S”-deficiency will also cause flowers on the top of kholas to die.


# Element Name: Manganese
# Symbol: Mn
# Atomic Number: 25
# Atomic Mass: 54.93805
# Horticultural-Benefit: Manganese is a catalyst for many enzymes, and also aids photosynthesis/ chlorophyll-production.
# Deficiency-Symptoms: A manganese-deficiency will have varying symptoms, depending on plant-species. The most common symptoms in cannabis plants are a yellowing of chloroplasts while stems remain relatively green. White or grey specks/spots may develop on the surfaces of leaves. As is usually the case, older/lower leaves will be affected first. Excessive “Mn”-levels may cause an “Fe”(iron)-deficiency, which will exhibit symptoms similar to a “Mn”-deficiency.


# Element Name: Boron
# Symbol: B
# Atomic Number: 5
# Atomic Mass: 10.811
# Horticultural-Benefit: Boron aids the movement of necessary sugars, as well as reproduction, and water intake by cells. It also assists in the production of stems/stalks/branches, and keeps calcium in a soluble form. Furthermore, “B” contributes to leaf-production/-coloring/and -structure.
# Deficiency-Symptoms: A boron-deficiency can be recognized by distorted and/or dead growing tips, hollow stems, and malformed fruits/flowers. Plants suffering from a “B”-deficiency frequently exhibit scorched, curled leaves, which are often spotted and discolored; young/vegetative leaves are affected first. Excessive “B”-levels may cause plants to exhibit symptoms similar to those of “Mg”-/”K”-deficiencies.


# Element Name: Zinc
# Symbol: Zn
# Atomic Number: 30
# Atomic Mass: 65.39
# Horticultural-Benefit: Zinc-levels directly affect plant-size and -maturation , as it is necessary for the production of plant-proteins. Consequently, “Zn” is vital to the production of leaves and stalks/stems/branches.
# Deficiency-Symptoms: A deficiency of zinc will result in the yellowing of chloroplasts between leaf-veins, usually with purplish spots of dead cells on leaf-surfaces; older/lower leaves are the first to show symptoms. Vegetative-growth is retarded and deformed, and floral-growth is reduced. Excessive “Zn”-levels can initiate an “Fe”(iron)-deficiency.


# Element Name: Copper
# Symbol: Cu
# Atomic Number: 29
# Atomic Mass: 63.546
# Horticultural-Benefit: Copper is responsible for healthy, vigorous growth, and strengthens stalks/stem/branches. It is also necessary for the production of plant-proteins, and is crucial for reproduction.
# Deficiency-Symptoms: A copper-deficiency can cause otherwise green leaves to adopt a bluish hue. Vegetative growth may fail to unfold, and may be yellow at the tips and edges.

 

[Jnugg]

What do the three numbers on the fertilizer label stand for? FAQ

What do the three numbers on the fertilizer label stand for? FAQ

Most people believe N-P-K to stand for the nitrogen, phophorous, and potassium, but that is somewhat incorrect. These are commonly referred to as the major elements along with calcium, magnesium, and sulphur. They are the major contributing compounds in plant growth.

N: nitrogen, used to stimulate new vegetative growth and overall health.
P2O5: phosphorus oxide, used to stimulate flower development and rooting.
K2O: potassium oxide, used to stimulate stem growth and overall health

N-P-K ratings on the labels of fertilizers are misleading at best. They represent N: nitrogen, P2O5: phosphorus oxide, and K2O: potassium oxide. These molecular compound ratios are not the same as the elemental ppm of the associated primary element, except in the case of N. They are only the guaranteed minimum amount of the molecular compound.


For example:

A fertilizer labeled 30-10-10 can have up to a total of 80% N, along with 10% P2O5, and 10% K20 and still be "accurate". It could have any combination of N, P2O5 and K2O adding up to 100%, as long as it has at least the MINIMUM listed of any of the three. You could have 50% nitrogen in 10-30-20. These types of labels are misrepresentative. Anyone using them to establish a controlled nutrient balance is not doing their plants any service.

As a general guidline, the N-P-K numbers can be roughly converted to elemental ppm. N, nitrogen is the only element to convert from the label at the ratio of 1 to 1. P2O5, phosphorus oxide, converts to elemental P, phosphorous at a ratio of 1 to .4. K2O, potassium oxide, converts to elemntal K, potassium at a ratio 1 to .8. This demonstrates the radical difference between an N-P-K of 1-1-1 and an actual elemental ratio of 1-.4-.8.

I have only found Botanicare and Green Air Products Genesis nutrients to give the actual ELEMENTAL ppm after dilution. I used to mix my own solutions from ammonium nitrate, calcium nitrate, magnesium nitrate, potassium nitrate, potassium phosphate and other reagents and know from nutrient analysis of the misleading nature of N-P-K labels.

 

[Jnugg]

What is the "lift the pot" method?

What is the "lift the pot" method?

The "lift the pot" method is a widely practiced, and very accurate method of knowing when to water your container plants.

The best way imho, to know when soil grown potted plants need more watering is by checking how heavy the pots feel. This method is very simple to learn once you get the feel for how light a ready for watering pot of soil feels.

Get an equal size pot and fill it with your soil. The medium should be about as moist as a new bag of potting soil. Use this planter as a learning tool to get a rough idea of how much the pots should weigh before watering again. The pots with your plants will feel only just slightly heavier when the soil is ready for more water. Pick up one of your planted pots, if its noticably heavy, do not water it until it feels "light". Next time you water a planter, pick it up and feel how much heavier it feels compared to the sample pot of soil.

It only takes a few times picking up the pots until this skill is like a "second nature" to you. You wont even need the sample pot after you get accustomed to the lifting method.

Sure your plants are always putting on more weight as they grow larger, but once you're proficient at lifting the pots, you'll also know how to compensate for the weight of the plants with ease.

I dont know how to better explain this method of knowing when to water, but believe me, anyone who learns this method, will always know when its time to water.

 

[Jnugg]

How can I tell whether my drooping plant is overwatered or underwatered?

How can I tell whether my drooping plant is overwatered or underwatered?

Leaves that are drooping from underwatering will look limp and lifeless.

Leaves that are drooping from overwatering will be firm and curled down, even from the stem of the leaf.

 

[Guest423]

all this info rules.....we need to organize it and set it up neatly! glad to see the years of DIY, faqs and strainguide info wasn't lost!!

peace

 

[Jnugg]

How do I determine a female sex plant from a male?

How do I determine a female sex plant from a male?

Preflowers, as opposed to full blown flowers, generally appear after the fourth week of vegetative growth from seed. Check carefully above the fourth node. Please note that preflowers are very small and impossible to differentiate without magnification. A photographer's 10x loupe is handy indeed when examining preflowers.

As the images below demonstrate, the female preflower is pear shaped and produces a pair of pistils. Frequently, the female preflowers do not show pistils until well after the preflowers have emerged. Thus, don't yank a plant because it has no pistils.Pistillate preflowers are located at the node between the stipule and emerging branch.

The male preflower and flower may be described as a "ball on a stick." Frequently, a male plant will develop mature staminate flowers after prolonged periods of vegetative growth. These appear in clusters around the nodes.

The following image shows a male plant in early flowering. Staminate flowers are located at the node between
the stipule and emerging branch. Note the clusters of flowers.

Male (staminate)


The image below shows a male pre flower after 24 days of 18/6.