-
ICMag with help from Landrace Warden and The Vault is running a NEW contest in November! You can check it here. Prizes are seeds & forum premium access. Come join in!
- Status
What temperature will my growspace get and how much ventilation will I need?
What temperature will my growspace get and how much ventilation will I need?
Overheating is a common problem encountered by growers, especially in closet or 'box' setups. High temperatures cause whispy buds and is often a sign of inadequate ventilation, which brings a whole host of other problems.
Whether at the design stage or struggling with an existing problem, the following formula can be useful in assessing your situation. Its pretty basic in terms of heat transfer but from experience has proved to be pretty accurate for our purposes.
The formula is:
Q = V x P x C x dT
where:
Q = Amount of lighting (kW)
V = Volume of air being ventilated (m3/s)
P = Density of air (assume 1.2 kg/m3)
C = Specific heat capacity of air (assume 1.02 kJ/kgK)
dT = Temperature difference between ambient and growspace air in degC
You can use this to determine what the temperature rise in your space will be (dT), or given a desired temperature rise you can use it to work out how much ventilation you will require (V)
To get from CFM to m3/s divide the CFM by 2119.
Examples
Here are some examples of how you could use the formula in three different ways, each using the same basic figures for clarity.
What temperature am I likely to get in my growspace?
Assume: Lighting = 400W (0.4kW), ventilation = 240m3/hr (0.067m3/s) and temperature of air entering room = 21degC
Q = V x P x C x dT
=> dT = Q / (V x P x C)
=> dT = 0.4 / (0.067 x 1.2 x 1.02)
=> dT = 4.87, i.e. 21 + 5 = 26degC in growspace
How much ventilation am I likely to need?
Assume: Lighting = 400W (0.4kW), temperature of air entering room = 21degC and temperature of growspace to be no more that 26degC
Q = V x P x C x dT
=> V = Q / (P x C x dT)
=> V = 0.4 / (1.2 x 1.02 x (26-21))
=> V = 0.065 m3/s i.e. 240 m3/hr
What is the most lighting I can put into my growspace?
Assume: Ventilation = 240m3/hr (0.067m3/s), temperature of air entering room = 21degC, temperature of growspace to be no more that 26degC
Q = V x P x C x dT
Q = 0.067 x 1.2 x 1.02 x (26-21)
Q = 0.41 kW i.e. 400 W
So that’s it, once you get used to using it its very simple really, Just stuff the formula and figures in a spreadsheet and let it do the work.
What temperature will my growspace get and how much ventilation will I need?
Overheating is a common problem encountered by growers, especially in closet or 'box' setups. High temperatures cause whispy buds and is often a sign of inadequate ventilation, which brings a whole host of other problems.
Whether at the design stage or struggling with an existing problem, the following formula can be useful in assessing your situation. Its pretty basic in terms of heat transfer but from experience has proved to be pretty accurate for our purposes.
The formula is:
Q = V x P x C x dT
where:
Q = Amount of lighting (kW)
V = Volume of air being ventilated (m3/s)
P = Density of air (assume 1.2 kg/m3)
C = Specific heat capacity of air (assume 1.02 kJ/kgK)
dT = Temperature difference between ambient and growspace air in degC
You can use this to determine what the temperature rise in your space will be (dT), or given a desired temperature rise you can use it to work out how much ventilation you will require (V)
To get from CFM to m3/s divide the CFM by 2119.
Examples
Here are some examples of how you could use the formula in three different ways, each using the same basic figures for clarity.
What temperature am I likely to get in my growspace?
Assume: Lighting = 400W (0.4kW), ventilation = 240m3/hr (0.067m3/s) and temperature of air entering room = 21degC
Q = V x P x C x dT
=> dT = Q / (V x P x C)
=> dT = 0.4 / (0.067 x 1.2 x 1.02)
=> dT = 4.87, i.e. 21 + 5 = 26degC in growspace
How much ventilation am I likely to need?
Assume: Lighting = 400W (0.4kW), temperature of air entering room = 21degC and temperature of growspace to be no more that 26degC
Q = V x P x C x dT
=> V = Q / (P x C x dT)
=> V = 0.4 / (1.2 x 1.02 x (26-21))
=> V = 0.065 m3/s i.e. 240 m3/hr
What is the most lighting I can put into my growspace?
Assume: Ventilation = 240m3/hr (0.067m3/s), temperature of air entering room = 21degC, temperature of growspace to be no more that 26degC
Q = V x P x C x dT
Q = 0.067 x 1.2 x 1.02 x (26-21)
Q = 0.41 kW i.e. 400 W
So that’s it, once you get used to using it its very simple really, Just stuff the formula and figures in a spreadsheet and let it do the work.
Converting Fertilizer NPK ratings to PPM and Teaspoons per Gallon
Converting Fertilizer NPK ratings to PPM and Teaspoons per Gallon
One can estimate the parts per million in solution (ppm) produced by a quantity of fertilizer in a gallon of water, based on the fertilizer's N-P-K rating.
For each number in the rating apply the following formula:
> one teaspoon (5ml) of a given fertilizer in a gallon of water
(10xN)÷ 0.768 = ppm
> one tablespoon (15ml) of fertilizer in a gallon of water:
(10xN)÷ 0.256 = ppm
Example: Peter's Professional All-Purpose Fertilizer with N-P-K rating of 20-20-20.
(10x20)÷.768=260.4 ppm
Therefore, one teaspoon (5ml) of Peter's Professional All-Purpose 20-20-20 in one gallon of water will produce a solution that contains approximately 260.4 ppm of Nitrogen, 260.4 ppm of P (P2O5), and 260.4 ppm of K (K2O) for a TOTAL ppm of approximately 781.3 .
Explanation
It's important to understand that with the term "parts per million," we are expressing a measurement in terms of a RATIO, which, like miles per hour or pounds per square inch, is a relation in degree or number between two separate measurements. "Parts per million" is a common way of expressing the measurement of the dilution of something in solution, which for our purposes here, is the dilution of fertilizer components in water. It just so happens that fertilizer N-P-K ratings are also ratios, as is the measurement of teaspoons per gallon.
Parts per million is most often alternately expressed as milligrams per liter because it's so easy to convert due to the efficiency of the metric system: 1000 milligrams = 1 gram and 1000 grams of water = 1 liter; 1 thousand x 1 thousand = 1 million; voilá- parts per million.
Fortunately, the "parts" in "parts per million" are generic. It can be parts of a teaspoon just as easily as it can be parts of a gram. N-P-K ratios are also generic expressions of percentage, or parts per hundred. Unfortunately, 1 gallon does not equal 1 thousand teaspoons; it takes 768 teaspoons (or 256 tablespoons) to equal one gallon. But by knowing this, one ratio can be converted into the terms of another ratio, which is what the formulas above do.
Remember,
Before relying on these formulas to fertilize your grow, you should be absolutely aware that N-P-K ratings don't necessarily precisely describe the amount of each nutrient in the fertilizer, but instead describe the minimum amount of nutrient to be found, as explained in Mr.Ito's excellent FAQ on the subject.
The only way to know for certain the ppm of your fert mix solution is to measure it's EC, with an electronic TDS meter as you mix it. If this isn't possible, at the very least try to use only high-quality fertilizer brands with reputations for their accuracy and consistency of their analyses and products.
Converting Fertilizer NPK ratings to PPM and Teaspoons per Gallon
One can estimate the parts per million in solution (ppm) produced by a quantity of fertilizer in a gallon of water, based on the fertilizer's N-P-K rating.
For each number in the rating apply the following formula:
> one teaspoon (5ml) of a given fertilizer in a gallon of water
(10xN)÷ 0.768 = ppm
> one tablespoon (15ml) of fertilizer in a gallon of water:
(10xN)÷ 0.256 = ppm
Example: Peter's Professional All-Purpose Fertilizer with N-P-K rating of 20-20-20.
(10x20)÷.768=260.4 ppm
Therefore, one teaspoon (5ml) of Peter's Professional All-Purpose 20-20-20 in one gallon of water will produce a solution that contains approximately 260.4 ppm of Nitrogen, 260.4 ppm of P (P2O5), and 260.4 ppm of K (K2O) for a TOTAL ppm of approximately 781.3 .
Explanation
It's important to understand that with the term "parts per million," we are expressing a measurement in terms of a RATIO, which, like miles per hour or pounds per square inch, is a relation in degree or number between two separate measurements. "Parts per million" is a common way of expressing the measurement of the dilution of something in solution, which for our purposes here, is the dilution of fertilizer components in water. It just so happens that fertilizer N-P-K ratings are also ratios, as is the measurement of teaspoons per gallon.
Parts per million is most often alternately expressed as milligrams per liter because it's so easy to convert due to the efficiency of the metric system: 1000 milligrams = 1 gram and 1000 grams of water = 1 liter; 1 thousand x 1 thousand = 1 million; voilá- parts per million.
Fortunately, the "parts" in "parts per million" are generic. It can be parts of a teaspoon just as easily as it can be parts of a gram. N-P-K ratios are also generic expressions of percentage, or parts per hundred. Unfortunately, 1 gallon does not equal 1 thousand teaspoons; it takes 768 teaspoons (or 256 tablespoons) to equal one gallon. But by knowing this, one ratio can be converted into the terms of another ratio, which is what the formulas above do.
Remember,
Before relying on these formulas to fertilize your grow, you should be absolutely aware that N-P-K ratings don't necessarily precisely describe the amount of each nutrient in the fertilizer, but instead describe the minimum amount of nutrient to be found, as explained in Mr.Ito's excellent FAQ on the subject.
The only way to know for certain the ppm of your fert mix solution is to measure it's EC, with an electronic TDS meter as you mix it. If this isn't possible, at the very least try to use only high-quality fertilizer brands with reputations for their accuracy and consistency of their analyses and products.
How do I determine the number of gallons my container holds?
How do I determine the number of gallons my container holds?
To calculate how many gallons your containers will hold you'll need to:
Calculate the Cubic inches of the container, then multiply the number of cubic inches by 0.004329 to covert cubic inches to gallons.
Step 1, Calculate the cubic inches:
For square or rectangular containers use (Height in inches) x (Width in inches) x (Depth in inches).
For cylindrical containers, use the following formula: (Average radius in inches Squared) x (Height in inches) x 3.14.
NOTE: the radius squared is NOT the same thing as the diameter.
A container with a Diameter of 10 inches, has a radius of 5 inches. 5 squared, (5 times itself) is 25.
Step 2, Take the number of Cubic inches and multiply by: 0.004329
For example, a cylidrical container that is 10" x 5" X 10" tall:
average radius squared= 14.06 inches (the average diameter is 7.5, half of that is 3.75, 3.75X3.75=14.06)
X height in inches=10 X 14.06= 140.6
X 3.14= 441.484 Cubic inches
X 0.004329= 1.9 gallons.
Another method would be to fill one gallon jugs with water and pour them into your container until it is full. Count the number of jugs added, and that should be how many gallons of soil your container holds. If your container already has holes in the bottom of it, line it with a plastic garbage bag before filling with water.
How do I determine the number of gallons my container holds?
To calculate how many gallons your containers will hold you'll need to:
Calculate the Cubic inches of the container, then multiply the number of cubic inches by 0.004329 to covert cubic inches to gallons.
Step 1, Calculate the cubic inches:
For square or rectangular containers use (Height in inches) x (Width in inches) x (Depth in inches).
For cylindrical containers, use the following formula: (Average radius in inches Squared) x (Height in inches) x 3.14.
NOTE: the radius squared is NOT the same thing as the diameter.
A container with a Diameter of 10 inches, has a radius of 5 inches. 5 squared, (5 times itself) is 25.
Step 2, Take the number of Cubic inches and multiply by: 0.004329
For example, a cylidrical container that is 10" x 5" X 10" tall:
average radius squared= 14.06 inches (the average diameter is 7.5, half of that is 3.75, 3.75X3.75=14.06)
X height in inches=10 X 14.06= 140.6
X 3.14= 441.484 Cubic inches
X 0.004329= 1.9 gallons.
Another method would be to fill one gallon jugs with water and pour them into your container until it is full. Count the number of jugs added, and that should be how many gallons of soil your container holds. If your container already has holes in the bottom of it, line it with a plastic garbage bag before filling with water.
Metric to English conversion chart
Metric to English conversion chart
Here is a chart of handy conversion factors. The FAQ team are currently working on a JavaScript version of this chart
and it will be made available at the earliest possible convenience.
Conversion Factors
units conversion factor metric units
Length: inches 2.54 centimeters
feet 0.305 meters
yard .915 meters
centimeters 0.394 inches
meters 3.28 feet
meters 1.094 yards
Area: square inches 6.5 sq. centimeters
square feet 0.093 sq. meters
acres 0.405 hectares
sq. centimeters 0.155 sq. inches
sq. meters 10.76 sq. feet
Volume: cubic inches 16.4 cubic centimeters
cubic feet 0.03 cubic meters
cubic yards 0.765 cubic meters
cubic cm 0.061 cubic inches
cubic meters 35.31 cubic feet
cubic meters 1.31 cubic yards
u.s. gallons 3.785 liters
Imp. gallons 4.545 liters
liters 0.2642 U.S. gallons
liters 0.220 Imp. gallons
Weight: ounces (Av) 28.35 grams
pounds (Av) 0.4536 Kilograms
grams 0.0353 ounces (Av)
Kilograms 0.205 pounds (Av)
Temp: Fahrenheit 0.56 deg. Celcius (F-32)
Celcius 1.8 Fahrenheit (F+32)
Examples:
Convert: 8" to centimeters (cm): 8" x 2.54 = 20.32cm
Convert: 40 F to Celcius: (40-32) x 0.56 = 8 x 0.56 = 4.48 C
Convert: 10 C to Fahrenheit: (10 x 1.8) + 32 = 50 F
Metric to English conversion chart
Here is a chart of handy conversion factors. The FAQ team are currently working on a JavaScript version of this chart
and it will be made available at the earliest possible convenience.
Conversion Factors
units conversion factor metric units
Length: inches 2.54 centimeters
feet 0.305 meters
yard .915 meters
centimeters 0.394 inches
meters 3.28 feet
meters 1.094 yards
Area: square inches 6.5 sq. centimeters
square feet 0.093 sq. meters
acres 0.405 hectares
sq. centimeters 0.155 sq. inches
sq. meters 10.76 sq. feet
Volume: cubic inches 16.4 cubic centimeters
cubic feet 0.03 cubic meters
cubic yards 0.765 cubic meters
cubic cm 0.061 cubic inches
cubic meters 35.31 cubic feet
cubic meters 1.31 cubic yards
u.s. gallons 3.785 liters
Imp. gallons 4.545 liters
liters 0.2642 U.S. gallons
liters 0.220 Imp. gallons
Weight: ounces (Av) 28.35 grams
pounds (Av) 0.4536 Kilograms
grams 0.0353 ounces (Av)
Kilograms 0.205 pounds (Av)
Temp: Fahrenheit 0.56 deg. Celcius (F-32)
Celcius 1.8 Fahrenheit (F+32)
Examples:
Convert: 8" to centimeters (cm): 8" x 2.54 = 20.32cm
Convert: 40 F to Celcius: (40-32) x 0.56 = 8 x 0.56 = 4.48 C
Convert: 10 C to Fahrenheit: (10 x 1.8) + 32 = 50 F
How many hours of light do I need for veg growth?
How many hours of light do I need for veg growth?
18/6 or 24/0, that is the eternal question.
Those numbers refer to the amount of light and dark that the plant receives (18 hours of light / 6 hours of darkness). Anything above 14 hours of light per day will keep the plant in vegetative mode-- growing leaves and not buds. When you want to switch to flowering you reduce the cycle to 12/12.
Cannabis plants grow without hassle under 24 hours of continuous light. There has been no controlled recordings of increased hermaphroditism or problems-- most growers now use the full 24/0 cycle.
However, 18/6 does have it's advantages:
* Reduced electricity costs. When you have a good mother plant collection and clone cycle, you don't need the increased growth the extra light provides. Lowering the cycle will save money.
* Allows the equipment and room to cool down. Those 6 hours of darkness can be timed to happen during the hottest part of the day, providing some relief for growers in hot climates.
How many hours of light do I need for veg growth?
18/6 or 24/0, that is the eternal question.
Those numbers refer to the amount of light and dark that the plant receives (18 hours of light / 6 hours of darkness). Anything above 14 hours of light per day will keep the plant in vegetative mode-- growing leaves and not buds. When you want to switch to flowering you reduce the cycle to 12/12.
Cannabis plants grow without hassle under 24 hours of continuous light. There has been no controlled recordings of increased hermaphroditism or problems-- most growers now use the full 24/0 cycle.
However, 18/6 does have it's advantages:
* Reduced electricity costs. When you have a good mother plant collection and clone cycle, you don't need the increased growth the extra light provides. Lowering the cycle will save money.
* Allows the equipment and room to cool down. Those 6 hours of darkness can be timed to happen during the hottest part of the day, providing some relief for growers in hot climates.
Should I prune (top) my plants?
Should I prune (top) my plants?
Topping the plant means to remove its primary growing shoot. The plant then redirects its energy to the next two closest shoots which become primary shoots. This may be done as many times as the grower desires. Note, however, that the resulting buds will be smaller than if the plant had been left untopped. The real issue becomes "Does the mass of the two new buds exceed the mass of the otherwise untopped cola?" The answer to this question varies from strain to strain, perhaps even, from plant to plant.
When topped, frequently the two central growth tips will stop growing for a period, while the plant directs its energies to repairing the damage central shoot. A collateral effect of topping is that the plant bushes out, that is, all of the lower branches continue to grow when the growth of the central shoots pauses. This can be useful in a propagation technique like SCroG, in which it is desirable for all of the budsites to be on an even plane.
The slowdown in growth may be avoided by pinching,rather than cutting, the growth tip. This does not cause the resulting bushiness in the lower growth, but does cause the two secondary tips to become primary.
How, when and where to top are also matters of ongoing debate. Ultimately, it becomes a personal decision of the grower, based upon his own experiences and goals.
Should I prune (top) my plants?
Topping the plant means to remove its primary growing shoot. The plant then redirects its energy to the next two closest shoots which become primary shoots. This may be done as many times as the grower desires. Note, however, that the resulting buds will be smaller than if the plant had been left untopped. The real issue becomes "Does the mass of the two new buds exceed the mass of the otherwise untopped cola?" The answer to this question varies from strain to strain, perhaps even, from plant to plant.
When topped, frequently the two central growth tips will stop growing for a period, while the plant directs its energies to repairing the damage central shoot. A collateral effect of topping is that the plant bushes out, that is, all of the lower branches continue to grow when the growth of the central shoots pauses. This can be useful in a propagation technique like SCroG, in which it is desirable for all of the budsites to be on an even plane.
The slowdown in growth may be avoided by pinching,rather than cutting, the growth tip. This does not cause the resulting bushiness in the lower growth, but does cause the two secondary tips to become primary.
How, when and where to top are also matters of ongoing debate. Ultimately, it becomes a personal decision of the grower, based upon his own experiences and goals.
What is the paperclip training technique?
What is the paperclip training technique?
So you want to Scrog but have no clones? Limited on space with that sneaky cabinet grow? Well don’t stress out!
The benefits of Paperclip training are:
1) More light reaching the centre of the plant
2) Shoots grow vertically off the stems
3) Controls the over all height
4) Stimulates stem growth by bending the stems (stress's the inner herd, causing it to grow stronger and bigger)
5) Increase in overall yield
This process starts early in plant development. Begin training when you have either FIM, pinched, or topped your plants. I firmly believe in FIMming and have had excellent success doing so. But the first step is to get paper clips that have plastic coatings. You do not want to get ones that are silver as they create hot spots and will hamper growth. Bend them straight out -- they will be about 3” in length. You then bend the first ½ inch into a hook so you have what resembles a walking cane, but with a paper clip. You then proceed to bend the stems down parallel with the medium. You should end up with a “T” when you’re done. You’re going to continue to train the stems parallel with the medium until you want to begin flowering.
When you do finally decide to induce flowering, all the training will pay off. What would have been your tiny and airy bottom buds. Will now turn into nice, photogenic colas.
I recommend and use ESU Greenleaves: Boost Juice, I find it improves vigor and vegetative growth rates.
What is the paperclip training technique?
So you want to Scrog but have no clones? Limited on space with that sneaky cabinet grow? Well don’t stress out!
The benefits of Paperclip training are:
1) More light reaching the centre of the plant
2) Shoots grow vertically off the stems
3) Controls the over all height
4) Stimulates stem growth by bending the stems (stress's the inner herd, causing it to grow stronger and bigger)
5) Increase in overall yield
This process starts early in plant development. Begin training when you have either FIM, pinched, or topped your plants. I firmly believe in FIMming and have had excellent success doing so. But the first step is to get paper clips that have plastic coatings. You do not want to get ones that are silver as they create hot spots and will hamper growth. Bend them straight out -- they will be about 3” in length. You then bend the first ½ inch into a hook so you have what resembles a walking cane, but with a paper clip. You then proceed to bend the stems down parallel with the medium. You should end up with a “T” when you’re done. You’re going to continue to train the stems parallel with the medium until you want to begin flowering.
When you do finally decide to induce flowering, all the training will pay off. What would have been your tiny and airy bottom buds. Will now turn into nice, photogenic colas.
I recommend and use ESU Greenleaves: Boost Juice, I find it improves vigor and vegetative growth rates.
How do I pre train my plant for a ScrOG grow?
How do I pre train my plant for a ScrOG grow?
So you’re going to grow ScrOG? Well, get used to training your plant, you will spend a lot of time shaping and positioning for better light distribution. One of the main advantages of ScrOG, is when the main growth tip is redirected horizontally 90 degrees to the screen, it opens the main stock to more light, which generates growth tips, and increases vigour.
What I like to do is give my plant a head start, by pre training the main stock horizontally. This has two real benefits, the main stock is not affected by the installation of the screen (training your plant horizontally to 90 degrees, really helps when you have a real fat stock), and the growth tips start growing/stretching upwards so they are very close to, or are penetrating the screen when the screen is installed (normally the growth tips wouldn't start to stretch up until the initial main growth tip was trained horizontal to the screen, this causes you to veg more time under the screen to allow for the growth tips to penetrate).
All you need is a twisty tie, a container, a sharp pointy object, and some string. First take the string and at one end make a loop, leave the other end alone for now. Next, take your container and pop a hole at the top of the container, then slip the loop through the hole (So the loop would go through the hole towards the centre of the pot). Next, at one end of the twisty tie, secure your stock where you want it to bend horizontally, at the other end twisty tie around the loop. Carefully take the string hanging out of the hole you made and pull on it, the plant should start to bend where you have it secured at the main stock. Pull the string till you have your desired angle then tie a knot that won't fit through the hole you poked in the container, and let go of the string.
How do I pre train my plant for a ScrOG grow?
So you’re going to grow ScrOG? Well, get used to training your plant, you will spend a lot of time shaping and positioning for better light distribution. One of the main advantages of ScrOG, is when the main growth tip is redirected horizontally 90 degrees to the screen, it opens the main stock to more light, which generates growth tips, and increases vigour.
What I like to do is give my plant a head start, by pre training the main stock horizontally. This has two real benefits, the main stock is not affected by the installation of the screen (training your plant horizontally to 90 degrees, really helps when you have a real fat stock), and the growth tips start growing/stretching upwards so they are very close to, or are penetrating the screen when the screen is installed (normally the growth tips wouldn't start to stretch up until the initial main growth tip was trained horizontal to the screen, this causes you to veg more time under the screen to allow for the growth tips to penetrate).
All you need is a twisty tie, a container, a sharp pointy object, and some string. First take the string and at one end make a loop, leave the other end alone for now. Next, take your container and pop a hole at the top of the container, then slip the loop through the hole (So the loop would go through the hole towards the centre of the pot). Next, at one end of the twisty tie, secure your stock where you want it to bend horizontally, at the other end twisty tie around the loop. Carefully take the string hanging out of the hole you made and pull on it, the plant should start to bend where you have it secured at the main stock. Pull the string till you have your desired angle then tie a knot that won't fit through the hole you poked in the container, and let go of the string.
How can I tell if my seedling is male or female without flowering it?
How can I tell if my seedling is male or female without flowering it?
The most common method is to force flower a labeled clone to determine the sex, rather than the incorrect method of forcing the seedling and then reverting it to vegetative growth again.
If you are a seedling grower who does not clone, or a grower who has no seperate vegetative and flowering grow spaces, the easiest method is simply to wait for the preflowers (primordia), and sexual maturity to appear while the seedling is still in vegetative growth. In other words, if you wait until they are 6 to 8 weeks old, most plants will show you their gender without any forcing.
Seedling growers who don't clone are really missing out on the full potency potential of their finished crop whenever they force their seedlings before they've become sexually mature.
How can I tell if my seedling is male or female without flowering it?
The most common method is to force flower a labeled clone to determine the sex, rather than the incorrect method of forcing the seedling and then reverting it to vegetative growth again.
If you are a seedling grower who does not clone, or a grower who has no seperate vegetative and flowering grow spaces, the easiest method is simply to wait for the preflowers (primordia), and sexual maturity to appear while the seedling is still in vegetative growth. In other words, if you wait until they are 6 to 8 weeks old, most plants will show you their gender without any forcing.
Seedling growers who don't clone are really missing out on the full potency potential of their finished crop whenever they force their seedlings before they've become sexually mature.
What does pH mean?
What does pH mean?
The degree of acidity/alkalinity of a solution is identified on the ph scale of 0 to 14, with a pH of 7 representing the neutral point. The pH scale is logarithmic, meaning small changes in pH represent large changes in the degree of acidity or alkalinity. For example, a solution with a pH of 5 is ten times as acidic as a solution with a pH of 6, but a solution with a pH of 5 is 100 times as acidic as a solution with a pH of 7. The pH of the nutrient solution is a major determinant of nutrient uptake by the plant.
What does pH mean?
The degree of acidity/alkalinity of a solution is identified on the ph scale of 0 to 14, with a pH of 7 representing the neutral point. The pH scale is logarithmic, meaning small changes in pH represent large changes in the degree of acidity or alkalinity. For example, a solution with a pH of 5 is ten times as acidic as a solution with a pH of 6, but a solution with a pH of 5 is 100 times as acidic as a solution with a pH of 7. The pH of the nutrient solution is a major determinant of nutrient uptake by the plant.
How will I know when my plants need to be repotted?
How will I know when my plants need to be repotted?
When you see root tips protruding from the bottom drainage holes in the planter it will be time to repot your plants.
added by: Kunta wears a sarong
...another way to tell if your plants need to be transplanted into bigger pots is when they require watering more than 5 or 6 times per week - this is a sure sign that they need transplanting.
Seedling taproots can reach out through the holes in the bottom of the container well before the need to transplant.
How will I know when my plants need to be repotted?
When you see root tips protruding from the bottom drainage holes in the planter it will be time to repot your plants.
added by: Kunta wears a sarong
...another way to tell if your plants need to be transplanted into bigger pots is when they require watering more than 5 or 6 times per week - this is a sure sign that they need transplanting.
Seedling taproots can reach out through the holes in the bottom of the container well before the need to transplant.
How big of a pot should I transplant into?
How big of a pot should I transplant into?
A good rule of thumb is 12" of height/per gallon and to double the size of your existing pot on transplanting. Other factors involved in determining pot size are your grow room footprint size, the amount/intensity of light plants receive, where plants are in the grow cycle and if the are from seed or clones.
Grow room area size: If your grow room foot print size is small and horizontal space is at a minimum then BOG's (Bushy Older Grower) doubling potting method is a good alternative. Rather than repotting into a larger diameter pot your existing pot is set on top of another pot a few inches more in diameter. Thus giving your plants a lot more vertical root volume of soil to grow into and less horizontal volume.
Amount of light and intensity: Plants that are under low wattage lights (70-250) tend not to grow as big and as quick as plants under high wattage lights (400-100), thus one can scale back pot size slightly. Also if your plants are under a 24/0 cycle or an 18/6 cycle this will affect growth rates and repotting sizes.
Growth cycle: The average grower will find that they must repot usually every 2 weeks while in the veg cycle. Going from a 1-1.5 gallon to a 2-3 gallon in the third/fourth week of the veg cycle. From a 2-3 gallon pot to a 4-5 gallon in the 5-6 week of the veg cycle. Note it is always best to repot 1-2 weeks before you flip your lights to the 12/12 flowering cycle and to let your plants finish off in that last transplanted pot size.
Seed or clones: This will make the biggest difference between pot sizes. Since one must veg up to 4-6 week from seed to reach plant maturity. Cloned plants need not be veg as long 1-3 weeks. This will drastically reduced the pot size needed for a cloned plant.
These guide lines are by no means written in stone, all environments are different and will produce different growth/repotting rates this is just a basic outline.
How big of a pot should I transplant into?
A good rule of thumb is 12" of height/per gallon and to double the size of your existing pot on transplanting. Other factors involved in determining pot size are your grow room footprint size, the amount/intensity of light plants receive, where plants are in the grow cycle and if the are from seed or clones.
Grow room area size: If your grow room foot print size is small and horizontal space is at a minimum then BOG's (Bushy Older Grower) doubling potting method is a good alternative. Rather than repotting into a larger diameter pot your existing pot is set on top of another pot a few inches more in diameter. Thus giving your plants a lot more vertical root volume of soil to grow into and less horizontal volume.
Amount of light and intensity: Plants that are under low wattage lights (70-250) tend not to grow as big and as quick as plants under high wattage lights (400-100), thus one can scale back pot size slightly. Also if your plants are under a 24/0 cycle or an 18/6 cycle this will affect growth rates and repotting sizes.
Growth cycle: The average grower will find that they must repot usually every 2 weeks while in the veg cycle. Going from a 1-1.5 gallon to a 2-3 gallon in the third/fourth week of the veg cycle. From a 2-3 gallon pot to a 4-5 gallon in the 5-6 week of the veg cycle. Note it is always best to repot 1-2 weeks before you flip your lights to the 12/12 flowering cycle and to let your plants finish off in that last transplanted pot size.
Seed or clones: This will make the biggest difference between pot sizes. Since one must veg up to 4-6 week from seed to reach plant maturity. Cloned plants need not be veg as long 1-3 weeks. This will drastically reduced the pot size needed for a cloned plant.
These guide lines are by no means written in stone, all environments are different and will produce different growth/repotting rates this is just a basic outline.
When is the best time to repot my plant?
When is the best time to repot my plant?
When the time comes to repot it is good practice to time the repotting with your water cycle. Having the plant root ball moist to semi-dry does make it a lot easier to pop the root ball out of the existing planter. After the repot one should give the plant a thoroughly good watering of PH adjusted water with a drop of B1 (B1 is optional to reduce any stress). This ensures that all the soil has even moisture content with no dry patches thus promoting roots to easily migrate to new soil. If one finds they must repot and the root ball is very damp/wet they should pre-water soil on the bottom and sides of new planter. Then after transplanting a nice but not heavy watering to even out moisture content.
One technique that works well in repotting is to have an empty pot the same size as the one the plant to be repotted is in. Fill new planters up with slightly moistened new soil, insert empty pot and pack new soil around it. Now gently lift out empty pot and place root ball into new soil and water.
When is the best time to repot my plant?
When the time comes to repot it is good practice to time the repotting with your water cycle. Having the plant root ball moist to semi-dry does make it a lot easier to pop the root ball out of the existing planter. After the repot one should give the plant a thoroughly good watering of PH adjusted water with a drop of B1 (B1 is optional to reduce any stress). This ensures that all the soil has even moisture content with no dry patches thus promoting roots to easily migrate to new soil. If one finds they must repot and the root ball is very damp/wet they should pre-water soil on the bottom and sides of new planter. Then after transplanting a nice but not heavy watering to even out moisture content.
One technique that works well in repotting is to have an empty pot the same size as the one the plant to be repotted is in. Fill new planters up with slightly moistened new soil, insert empty pot and pack new soil around it. Now gently lift out empty pot and place root ball into new soil and water.
Why do I need to transplant?
Why do I need to transplant?
Roots grow outward for stability, so they naturally collect at the edges of the container and leave much of the soil in the middle of the pot unused. This will cause slowed growth because the roots may restrict each other. Transplanting allows for a more efficient root mass, as the space in the middle of the final container will be used.
Allowing the roots to collect at the edges of your 1-gallon pot, will ensure a more efficient root mass when transplanting to a 3-gallon pot. Each time you transplant, you can also bury the plant up to the first node or branch to shorten it's overall height.
Added by: Kunta wears a sarong
It might be worth mentioning that you can bury the plant low or high in the pot you are transplanting to as well; that way all your plants will start off being the same height. Transplanting high might be a good idea for patio growers in high rainfall conditions - this will help drainage.
When
Transplanting should be done a day after watering because moist roots and soil (not soaking wet or bone dry) will slide out of the old pot easier. The soil will hold together better, and less root damage will occur.
How
You should loosen the root bound roots from the bottom and lower sides of the root ball by teasing them out loosely and gently - this will help the transition. if there are too many hanging down after teasing, then it is ok to cut or tear a few handfuls of roots away. If the roots are wrapped around the root ball in the shape of the original pot, then it's best to cut these away to promote faster root penetration into the new pot.
Timing
The secret is the timing of the transplant; you want when the roots have filled the original pot, but before the roots have wrapped around and the plant has become root bound.
The danger of transplanting too early is that when you up can the pot and lift off the pot some of the soil and young roots may become damaged due to the fact that there is insufficient amount of roots to hold all the soil together.
The danger of waiting too long before transplanting is that growth will slow, as the plant has insufficient root room to match the above ground growth – ultimately yielding less. In addition, micro deficiencies, dehydration and other problems occur more frequently with root bound plants. Root-bound plants also take awhile to become vigorous again.
My Technique
My preferred method of transplanting is to moisten the pots I'm going to transplant, moisten the new soil at the bottom of the new pots with a garden mister (the pump up models are best - misters are by far the best way to moisten the soil because they act like rain and do not compact the soil).
Mist each 3-inch layer of soil - lightly sprinkle around the old root ball in the new pot - this will create the best conditions for new growth. Roots will reach out and grow much faster into a light, airy moist soil than the compacted mud created by a hose or watering can to wet down the soil
I believe that many problems are caused initially by compacting the soil.
Lightly moisten your soil before and after transplanting. If a lot of water is pouring out of the holes in the bottoms of your pots when transplanting, then you are probably over wetting the soil and creating soil compaction.
Tips:
If your soil is lacking in soil conditioners (e.g. sand, rock gravel, perlite, vermiculite etc) and the roots have penetrated the new soil - then water again. In normal conditions this would be 4 - 7 days after transplanting. Try to emulate the natural action of rain: pump up misters, watering wands, sprinkler type watering cans are best - forget about using a hose as this may compact the soil and it is also very easy to over water (quickly leaching out nutrients from the soil).
All the soil mix ingredients should be mixed in dry.... never stir or mix wet soil mixes, as they will turn to useless mud.
Why do I need to transplant?
Roots grow outward for stability, so they naturally collect at the edges of the container and leave much of the soil in the middle of the pot unused. This will cause slowed growth because the roots may restrict each other. Transplanting allows for a more efficient root mass, as the space in the middle of the final container will be used.
Allowing the roots to collect at the edges of your 1-gallon pot, will ensure a more efficient root mass when transplanting to a 3-gallon pot. Each time you transplant, you can also bury the plant up to the first node or branch to shorten it's overall height.
Added by: Kunta wears a sarong
It might be worth mentioning that you can bury the plant low or high in the pot you are transplanting to as well; that way all your plants will start off being the same height. Transplanting high might be a good idea for patio growers in high rainfall conditions - this will help drainage.
When
Transplanting should be done a day after watering because moist roots and soil (not soaking wet or bone dry) will slide out of the old pot easier. The soil will hold together better, and less root damage will occur.
How
You should loosen the root bound roots from the bottom and lower sides of the root ball by teasing them out loosely and gently - this will help the transition. if there are too many hanging down after teasing, then it is ok to cut or tear a few handfuls of roots away. If the roots are wrapped around the root ball in the shape of the original pot, then it's best to cut these away to promote faster root penetration into the new pot.
Timing
The secret is the timing of the transplant; you want when the roots have filled the original pot, but before the roots have wrapped around and the plant has become root bound.
The danger of transplanting too early is that when you up can the pot and lift off the pot some of the soil and young roots may become damaged due to the fact that there is insufficient amount of roots to hold all the soil together.
The danger of waiting too long before transplanting is that growth will slow, as the plant has insufficient root room to match the above ground growth – ultimately yielding less. In addition, micro deficiencies, dehydration and other problems occur more frequently with root bound plants. Root-bound plants also take awhile to become vigorous again.
My Technique
My preferred method of transplanting is to moisten the pots I'm going to transplant, moisten the new soil at the bottom of the new pots with a garden mister (the pump up models are best - misters are by far the best way to moisten the soil because they act like rain and do not compact the soil).
Mist each 3-inch layer of soil - lightly sprinkle around the old root ball in the new pot - this will create the best conditions for new growth. Roots will reach out and grow much faster into a light, airy moist soil than the compacted mud created by a hose or watering can to wet down the soil
I believe that many problems are caused initially by compacting the soil.
Lightly moisten your soil before and after transplanting. If a lot of water is pouring out of the holes in the bottoms of your pots when transplanting, then you are probably over wetting the soil and creating soil compaction.
Tips:
If your soil is lacking in soil conditioners (e.g. sand, rock gravel, perlite, vermiculite etc) and the roots have penetrated the new soil - then water again. In normal conditions this would be 4 - 7 days after transplanting. Try to emulate the natural action of rain: pump up misters, watering wands, sprinkler type watering cans are best - forget about using a hose as this may compact the soil and it is also very easy to over water (quickly leaching out nutrients from the soil).
All the soil mix ingredients should be mixed in dry.... never stir or mix wet soil mixes, as they will turn to useless mud.
What is root-bound?
What is root-bound?
Root-bound is where the roots of your plant outgrow the container they are contained in.
The following symptoms may be observed if you allow your plants to become root-bound:
1. Stunted Growth.
2. Stretching.
3. Smaller and slower bud production.
4. Needs watering too often.
5. Easy to burn with low % nutrient solution mixtures.
6. Wilting.
Here are two ways to remove your plant:
Before you start, always run a transplanting trowel or a long, flexible knife (dedicated for gardening only) between the old pot and your plant's root-ball.
For a root-bound plant with a strong, woody stem: hold the stem firmly and lift up so the pot is off the ground. Tap down around the pot rim with a rubber hammer or piece of wood until the pot lets go.
Another way is to turn the plant and pot upside down, holding the plant so it won't crash on the ground when it comes free of the pot. Make sure there's enough clearance to the ground, or you'll smash your plant. (One way to do this: cut a cardboard disk the size of the pot opening, cut a slit to accommodate the plant stem and slip the disk over the top of the pot before turning the pot upside down). Have your friend or family member pull upward on the pot. If you're working alone, tap the rim down on the edge of a table or bench. You may have to do this all around the rim before the roots let go of the pot. (The plant may come free from the pot all at once, so hold on!)
Once you've freed the plant from its old pot, inspect its roots, if the roots run in a tight circle around the outside of the root ball, you got there just in time. Dig your fingers into the outside 1/2" of these circular roots, loosen the ends up and pull them gently outward. If the roots are very tight, cut two or three 1/2" incisions from top to bottom on the outside of the root-ball. (Space the cuts around the root-ball.) This process may seem cruel, but it gives the roots an opportunity to stop their circular growth habit and begin to grow outward.
If the roots are extremely tight, slice a thin layer off the outside of the entire root-ball. Set the root-ball into its new pot, hold the foliage out of the way and add soil. Do not forcefully pack this new soil as you want the soil to be settled (with no air pockets) but loose enough to allow root penetration. One way to achieve this is to water the new soil in layers as you add it and this is also a great time to add SUPERTHRIVE.
Do not cover the top of the root-ball with a thick layer of new soil; IMO the surface of the old root-ball should also be the surface in the new pot. Once your plant is settled into its new pot, clean the foliage as dust keeps light from reaching the leaves and makes the plant more susceptible to mites and other pests. Make sure all H.I.D lights are switched off and give your indoor plant a shower in lukewarm water or dust the leaves with a soft, damp cloth.
Outdoor plants can be sprayed with a garden hose or spray bottle. If the potting soil you used doesn't contain fertilizer and you didn't add a root stimulator/fertilizer solution, give the plant a light feeding of diluted fertilizer. It is important that your newly re-potted plant receives the right level of light, newly re-potted plants will suffer if placed directly under your H.I.D lights or in direct sunlight. It may take a up to 2 weeks for your plant to become accustomed to its new accommodations so until you begin to see signs of new growth use reduced levels of light.
What is root-bound?
Root-bound is where the roots of your plant outgrow the container they are contained in.
The following symptoms may be observed if you allow your plants to become root-bound:
1. Stunted Growth.
2. Stretching.
3. Smaller and slower bud production.
4. Needs watering too often.
5. Easy to burn with low % nutrient solution mixtures.
6. Wilting.
Here are two ways to remove your plant:
Before you start, always run a transplanting trowel or a long, flexible knife (dedicated for gardening only) between the old pot and your plant's root-ball.
For a root-bound plant with a strong, woody stem: hold the stem firmly and lift up so the pot is off the ground. Tap down around the pot rim with a rubber hammer or piece of wood until the pot lets go.
Another way is to turn the plant and pot upside down, holding the plant so it won't crash on the ground when it comes free of the pot. Make sure there's enough clearance to the ground, or you'll smash your plant. (One way to do this: cut a cardboard disk the size of the pot opening, cut a slit to accommodate the plant stem and slip the disk over the top of the pot before turning the pot upside down). Have your friend or family member pull upward on the pot. If you're working alone, tap the rim down on the edge of a table or bench. You may have to do this all around the rim before the roots let go of the pot. (The plant may come free from the pot all at once, so hold on!)
Once you've freed the plant from its old pot, inspect its roots, if the roots run in a tight circle around the outside of the root ball, you got there just in time. Dig your fingers into the outside 1/2" of these circular roots, loosen the ends up and pull them gently outward. If the roots are very tight, cut two or three 1/2" incisions from top to bottom on the outside of the root-ball. (Space the cuts around the root-ball.) This process may seem cruel, but it gives the roots an opportunity to stop their circular growth habit and begin to grow outward.
If the roots are extremely tight, slice a thin layer off the outside of the entire root-ball. Set the root-ball into its new pot, hold the foliage out of the way and add soil. Do not forcefully pack this new soil as you want the soil to be settled (with no air pockets) but loose enough to allow root penetration. One way to achieve this is to water the new soil in layers as you add it and this is also a great time to add SUPERTHRIVE.
Do not cover the top of the root-ball with a thick layer of new soil; IMO the surface of the old root-ball should also be the surface in the new pot. Once your plant is settled into its new pot, clean the foliage as dust keeps light from reaching the leaves and makes the plant more susceptible to mites and other pests. Make sure all H.I.D lights are switched off and give your indoor plant a shower in lukewarm water or dust the leaves with a soft, damp cloth.
Outdoor plants can be sprayed with a garden hose or spray bottle. If the potting soil you used doesn't contain fertilizer and you didn't add a root stimulator/fertilizer solution, give the plant a light feeding of diluted fertilizer. It is important that your newly re-potted plant receives the right level of light, newly re-potted plants will suffer if placed directly under your H.I.D lights or in direct sunlight. It may take a up to 2 weeks for your plant to become accustomed to its new accommodations so until you begin to see signs of new growth use reduced levels of light.
bostrom155
Active member
Tag, hell yes, nice one guys
G
Guest
Glad you found it, and it helps
Glad you found it, and it helps
anyone needing info from the FAQ can do a 'search this thread'
just make sure yer java is on >>
Glad you found it, and it helps
anyone needing info from the FAQ can do a 'search this thread'
just make sure yer java is on >>
Last edited:
V
vhGhost
captain i see there is a nice collectiong of info .. great job .. and thnx to everyone! og faq are priceless!!!
- Status
