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GG 2015

T

The_Core

Dog Star. Thanks man. Last year I battled with insects and cows. Damn cows ate most of my plants. And I was ripped for half of my reg plants. 6 TO 7 FT plants, clean cut at the base.

Farm Tough, Thanks for stopping in. Rabbits were no problem last year but they might be this year. I am not sure. I am more worried about insects to be honest. Electric fences are great but expensive right?

Jurri, Its glad to see things are coming together for you. SS is a good place, I had some problems so I had to leave but I might go back in the future. We will see. Good people though. Of course I want to see pictures and follow any grow log you have gone this season.

Gorilla Ganja, Thanks for stopping by, I hope you enjoy the grow shows. These are fairly large beds so I am expecting 1000 grams in July with Auto bud. And I am also plan on growing 8-16 reg plants in black buckets as well. I am starting those seeds tomorrow. I will plant them out when the weather is nicer.

Thanks everyone for commenting and following along. I should have more to show in the next week. The nights are cold and the days arent too much better. Alot of rain. The seeds are taking time to come up. Lets hope they make it up soon.
 

Kygiacomo!!!

AppAlachiAn OutLaW
im using neem oil and karanja oil this year Core. last year they fked up alot of my plants. also when they do that it opens the plant up alot easier for other disease like bud rot. when a insect bites holes in the plant foliage it leaves damage,then as the botrytis spores are airborne they fly around all the time,so when they land in those insect bite holes and get wet then the infection process starts.
 
T

The_Core

Kygiacomo I will have to check out that neem oil. Last year the Aphids infected 2 of my auto plots really bad and it was a constant battle. Became expensive with insect killer in a spray bottle when your talking about those numbers of plants. I am going to wipe out the problem at the source this year. Killing the ants fast and early. I am putting down the ant killer in the next couple weeks after I see them out foraging for food. I will not lose my plants to ants this year.

I could not resist growing reg strains. So I will be growing 8 different strains in buckets as well.


Hybrids From Hell Wild 3
Hybrids From Hell SE 12
Royal Nepal
Recover Dame Blanche
Danish Gold x HP2
Short Term Amnesia
Royal Dane
Early Pink Kush


I have other outdoor strains I would like to run but right now that is probably going to be all I can handle. I am starting 4 seeds from each strain in 1 liter square pots. I will move out to the grow spot and only keep the females. Transplant into 10 liter buckets.
 
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T

The_Core

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8 strains. 32 seeds. 4 seeds per strain. Will plant them out June 1st.
 

Kygiacomo!!!

AppAlachiAn OutLaW
Kygiacomo I will have to check out that neem oil. Last year the Aphids infected 2 of my auto plots really bad and it was a constant battle. Became expensive with insect killer in a spray bottle when your talking about those numbers of plants. I am going to wipe out the problem at the source this year. Killing the ants fast and early. I am putting down the ant killer in the next couple weeks after I see them out foraging for food. I will not lose my plants to ants this year.

I could not resist growing reg strains. So I will be growing 8 different strains in buckets as well.


Hybrids From Hell Wild 3
Hybrids From Hell SE 12
Royal Nepal
Recover Dame Blanche
Danish Gold x HP2
Short Term Amnesia
Royal Dane
Early Pink Kush


I have other outdoor strains I would like to run but right now that is probably going to be all I can handle. I am starting 4 seeds from each strain in 1 liter square pots. I will move out to the grow spot and only keep the females. Transplant into 10 liter buckets.

u can lay down some Diatomaceous Earth for the Ants as well. i had a Ant nest close to my site and i layed that down where they traveled and i havent seen any since i put the DE down. If u get the neem oil make sure to get the 100% one and not the 70%. u can also use karanja oil which is same thing as neem in terms of insect killing power,but the karanja just smells so much better then the neem so i prefer it. Yep thats exactly what i did wipe them out before they ever get a chance to fkk us over. i'll be along for the ride here with ya if u dont mind :tiphat:
 
Wouldn't it be better to dig up the soil in an area the size of the tarps, just turn it over to the depth of a garden spade, and then put planks of wood around it like a wooden raised garden bed, and then put your soil in that?
Just thinking the plants roots then could go down through your soil in the raised bed into the ground.
Would require less watering and give them more root space if they needed it.
 
T

The_Core

u can lay down some Diatomaceous Earth for the Ants as well. i had a Ant nest close to my site and i layed that down where they traveled and i havent seen any since i put the DE down. If u get the neem oil make sure to get the 100% one and not the 70%. u can also use karanja oil which is same thing as neem in terms of insect killing power,but the karanja just smells so much better then the neem so i prefer it. Yep thats exactly what i did wipe them out before they ever get a chance to fkk us over. i'll be along for the ride here with ya if u dont mind :tiphat:

So I will check out Diatomaceous Earth, Neem oil and Karanja oil.

I will check out all 3. Which one is the most cost effective?
 
T

The_Core

Wouldn't it be better to dig up the soil in an area the size of the tarps, just turn it over to the depth of a garden spade, and then put planks of wood around it like a wooden raised garden bed, and then put your soil in that?
Just thinking the plants roots then could go down through your soil in the raised bed into the ground.
Would require less watering and give them more root space if they needed it.

That is a great idea. I did that on another spot in the field. Problem for me is that the ground is pure hard packed clay. Its a nightmare to dig up and it holds water like a swimming pool. If I spent the time and work to dig it out and put my garden soil in the hole, the water from the rain will pool up in my soil and keep the roots over saturated I think. Also the PH problems will come up with my plants roots hit that tough clay layer. And the rogue weed grass in the field will take over my dirt in one season. Using the tarp was not my first choice but it keeps my soil seperate and so i can better control and weeds taking over my dirt and I will be able to keep the PH in check.

But I have thought for next year maybe I can rework my GG spot and get the plants in the ground.
 

Kygiacomo!!!

AppAlachiAn OutLaW
So I will check out Diatomaceous Earth, Neem oil and Karanja oil.

I will check out all 3. Which one is the most cost effective?

id say the karanja oil is most cost effective. well the De might be most cost effective bc it can be used as pest control as well but the only issue i have with that is each time it rains u would have to reapply it to the plant. the neem/karanja oil is also a systemic which last longer and no need to apply after the rain. i do a combination on my plants when i spray i do half soil drench and rest spray plant. i was reading on here somewhere that when u soil drench neem/karanja oil in that it stays inside the plant about 45-50 days which will provide protection from pests. the De is great as well bc its like little razors to hard shell insects like ants,aphids,spider mites and it cuts their ass open and cause them to dehydrate and die a miserable death lol i got the De strictly for Ants and other little fkers.
 

Kygiacomo!!!

AppAlachiAn OutLaW
That is a great idea. I did that on another spot in the field. Problem for me is that the ground is pure hard packed clay. Its a nightmare to dig up and it holds water like a swimming pool. If I spent the time and work to dig it out and put my garden soil in the hole, the water from the rain will pool up in my soil and keep the roots over saturated I think. Also the PH problems will come up with my plants roots hit that tough clay layer. And the rogue weed grass in the field will take over my dirt in one season. Using the tarp was not my first choice but it keeps my soil seperate and so i can better control and weeds taking over my dirt and I will be able to keep the PH in check.

But I have thought for next year maybe I can rework my GG spot and get the plants in the ground.

i was just thinking bro u could build mounds and may not ever have to water ur plants if u have soil like that,If u are using mychorraize then they will spread down thur the soil mound into the moist earth below and water the shit out the ladys and not have to worry about rot imho.. i have 1 plant left in my jiffy pot right now and there is a huge difference from having the plants in the ground vs in a pot imo. this 1 plant i have left was germed the say day as some my other plants i now have out in the ground at their final homes. the one in the pot is like 3 inches tall and the ones that are in the ground are at least 7-8 inches tall. i have no ideal what difference it makes but i can clearly see a huge difference.
 
T

The_Core

i was just thinking bro u could build mounds and may not ever have to water ur plants if u have soil like that,If u are using mychorraize then they will spread down thur the soil mound into the moist earth below and water the shit out the ladys and not have to worry about rot imho.. i have 1 plant left in my jiffy pot right now and there is a huge difference from having the plants in the ground vs in a pot imo. this 1 plant i have left was germed the say day as some my other plants i now have out in the ground at their final homes. the one in the pot is like 3 inches tall and the ones that are in the ground are at least 7-8 inches tall. i have no ideal what difference it makes but i can clearly see a huge difference.

I suppose next year I could try to work the ground somehow. Maybe dig a big hole, put down a weed block mat that lets water through but blocks out weed grass? Also my plants roots would not grow down into the clay. Not sure. I have my planning to do for sure.
 
Its a nightmare to dig up and it holds water like a swimming pool. If I spent the time and work to dig it out and put my garden soil in the hole, the water from the rain will pool up in my soil and keep the roots over saturated I think

I didn't mean dig out the existing soil to make a big rectangular hole, I meant just turn it over with a garden spade, just till the natural soil in other words, to loosen it up so your plants roots can grow into it easier.
So your soil you brought in will sit on top of the existing soil, and will be the same height above the ground level as with your tarps.

But if the clay soil is going to be too hard to dig, and you don't want to spend the time doing that then ok.

But I would still say why not use a wooden border make of planks and sit that directly on top of the ground, and then fill with your own soil like a raised garden bed.
Even though the soil below is clay your plants roots can still grow into it, look at the surrounding grasses and vegetation, they are growing in it ok.

Actually looking at the pictures of the site it looks like that area will turn into a bog when it rains.
Have you been there after a good rain to see what it looks like?
 
T

The_Core

FeatherFoot you are a perceptive man. It does turn into a bog type area after the snow has melted and the spring rain has come. Stays very saturated with water, maybe that is what helped turn it into clay? Not sure. But anyhow, I put my beds on tarps at a spot that is elevated so its not like a bog. And the tarp will protect from excess water on the surface of the ground. But the wood used as a grow box of sorts is a good idea. I am still worried that even if I dig and flip the clay over the weed grass will grow up into my soil and overtake my nice potting soil. Last year I grew in this spot and it worked great for the most part, except the damn weeds taking over.
 

Kygiacomo!!!

AppAlachiAn OutLaW
I suppose next year I could try to work the ground somehow. Maybe dig a big hole, put down a weed block mat that lets water through but blocks out weed grass? Also my plants roots would not grow down into the clay. Not sure. I have my planning to do for sure.

ya plenty of time to figure out what u want to do. i just know that my plants that go into the ground do alot better then a pot,i have seen many of my plants that tunnels into the clay. u would be surprised at how strong those roots actually are. u can also throw down some gypsum and it will lossen up the clay, if u did a raised bed it would prolly be even better since they would get more air to the roots
 

juuri

Member
I suppose next year I could try to work the ground somehow. Maybe dig a big hole, put down a weed block mat that lets water through but blocks out weed grass? Also my plants roots would not grow down into the clay. Not sure. I have my planning to do for sure.


This year i will put a weed block mat on next years auto bed, so it will kill grass.. And under the mat ill put some chicken shit-seaweed pellets and some horse shit pellets and then ill add some compost starter pellets.
So the mat doesnt allow weeds to grow and those shit pellets and compost starter will destroy all the roots and grass.
And the outcome should be nice fertile bed with no weed roots or anything in it.. :p
And no weeds to digg out next year..:p And it should destroy if not all atleast most of the weed seeds in the ground..:p So just nice black fertile soil..

At least thats the idea. But we will see how it works out..:p
 
T

The_Core

Not sure about that plan Juuri. Sure the fertilizer will burn and destroy the leaf material but roots......Do not think so. Wild grasses and other weeds have developed the ability to survive just about anything.

You know plants even come back from Herbicides like roundup.

The more likely outcome of your plan will be the top leaf material to the weed will die, the root will stay intact like they do, and they will use your nutrients to gain strength and spread and the root mass of the weeds will actually be stronger come spring.

If it were me, I would hit that weed grass with 2 or 3 consecutive doses of broad spectrum herbacide. Kill everything including the roots. Dig up that shit and toss it away. Then you can amend the remaining native soil. Or better yet dig a hole, mix your amendments with the native soil, put down the weed block material in the hole to keep out the weeds from spreading into your soil and then put your soil back in.

Even if you take my advice, kill the weeds, dig it up, the weed roots will be back in 1 season and your back to square 1 again.
 
I'm interested to see if this works.

Even if you take my advice, kill the weeds, dig it up, the weed roots will be back in 1 season and your back to square 1 again.

Well that's how it is, but guerrilla growing does involve physical labour.
 
T

The_Core

Sure does. No work then no payout. In the field where I grow you have to dig down about 2 foot to get past all the roots and down into the clay. If I was going that route I would dig down and then put down the root block material. Double or triple layer it so it will work for atleast a couple seasons. Then I would go that route.

But I learned with clay, digging a hole, water just fills it up like a pool, its no good with the spring rain. You have to wait until the water goes away and things dry up if your going to go that route.
 

juuri

Member
Not sure about that plan Juuri. Sure the fertilizer will burn and destroy the leaf material but roots......Do not think so. Wild grasses and other weeds have developed the ability to survive just about anything.

You know plants even come back from Herbicides like roundup.

The more likely outcome of your plan will be the top leaf material to the weed will die, the root will stay intact like they do, and they will use your nutrients to gain strength and spread and the root mass of the weeds will actually be stronger come spring.

If it were me, I would hit that weed grass with 2 or 3 consecutive doses of broad spectrum herbacide. Kill everything including the roots. Dig up that shit and toss it away. Then you can amend the remaining native soil. Or better yet dig a hole, mix your amendments with the native soil, put down the weed block material in the hole to keep out the weeds from spreading into your soil and then put your soil back in.

Even if you take my advice, kill the weeds, dig it up, the weed roots will be back in 1 season and your back to square 1 again.

Hehehee, i think it should work.. I did read a article on composting and if the temp reaches 50-55c for 3-4 days it will destroy roots and seeds.. But the thing is that maybe i have to dig it over so the root side is up.. And add some organic matter and when composting process starts then temp should rise pretty high... Thanks to N rich shit pellets..:p
But hey, ill try it my way and we can see the outcome next spring/summer..:p
 

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