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GCG and Boobs's 2012 NorCal Organic Outdoor: The Foothill Fetish

megayields

Grower of Connoisseur herb's.
ICMag Donor
Veteran
yep..... I cannot get all day sun unfortunately....and I was going to top them but a friend said "no" let them go.....(bonk head here)

Thank you Gold COuntry
 
In reference to Megayields question, this was always a question of mine for the longest time, and I think I now know the answer. Its got to do with your pots and its limited ability for root growth, you see, the plants are like a mirror image of the roots…when one uses a pot or container that is too small, the plant seems to grow vertical but does not fill out like a ‘globe’.
 
Guardian of the light dep.

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Just saw you addressed us as "GSC and Boobs" , I'm GCG not Cookies. :laughing:

GSC and Boobs....can I ask a dumb question?? How do you get that perfect baseball circular growth pattern on your plants? Do you top them early and keep working and trimming them into a baseball design? I am really struggling as mine are just tall and lanky?

See below;

This is my Ultimate Strawberry Diesel - Poly-hybrid, heavy sativa lean, from Ganesh's original stock that he couldn't stabilize so it's clone only now. Both of these are in 45 gallon smarties btw.

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This is my GSC - IC Mag cut;

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Any help would be appreciated?
 
Thank you for the close up of the SD….nice and chunky, webbing adds character…in the wine business, if you look at the analysis of the make up of wine, 1% of the wine contains protein…hmmmm, grapes do not have protein, I wonder where it comes from? Lol.
 

randm999

New member
Qick question

Qick question

I'm also in the foothils and have a small grow (compared to yours) and was wondering what you use to treat for spider mites?
This year, due to the higher than normal temps I guess, I have seen more spider mites than the last couple of years. I've been useing a malathian based bug killer but I hate to use it now that buds are forming.
 

boobs

child of the sun
Veteran
I'm also in the foothils and have a small grow (compared to yours) and was wondering what you use to treat for spider mites?
This year, due to the higher than normal temps I guess, I have seen more spider mites than the last couple of years. I've been useing a malathian based bug killer but I hate to use it now that buds are forming.

we don't have any, when I had them inside though I used azatrol and predators. NorCalBob was telling me about some product...can't remember what it was called though. :chin:

if you look back through the thread you'll see we hired thousands and thousands of ladybug mercenaries... free and fun... :biggrin:

where did you get your starts from?
 
S

SeaMaiden

I'm also in the foothils and have a small grow (compared to yours) and was wondering what you use to treat for spider mites?
This year, due to the higher than normal temps I guess, I have seen more spider mites than the last couple of years. I've been useing a malathian based bug killer but I hate to use it now that buds are forming.

You should begin using something like a lavender extract/tea (make from lavender flowers, applied every 3 days in hot weather like this) OR go with essential oils. However, my standby/fallback is something called JMS Stylet oil.

Last year was my spider mite year. This year it's harlequin bugs and aphids in my cole crops, and SCORCH. Everything except my peppers, eggplants and cannabis is scorched from the heat over the past couple of days. Oh, and my Marina di Chiogga squash, they're making me feel positively Lilliputian whenever I go out there!

Don't forget what a fantastic vector you make. It pays to pay attention to the 'direction' in which you touch plants. I have a market garden, and the spider mites last year began on my pole beans. I made the mistake of touching the pole beans before my cannabis and they spread. So now everything begins with cannabis, and if I have flowering plants those are touched first, and then those in decreasing order of importance and/or increasing order of health and vigor.

Make sense?

If your grow is small enough you can also use a 50:50 mix of isopropyl alcohol:water, applied every three days again (I would do it either early in the mornings or last thing at night, more like early in the mornings), and as with anything that's not translaminar in its action, ensuring to thoroughly coat the undersides as well as the tops of the leaves, stems, branches, etc. The iso causes rapid evaporation and desiccation of the mites, but the eggs are not so affected and so you must apply every three days because that's the hatch cycle when it's sufficiently warm.

Do you guys smell the fires? I've awakened to a Fire Sky for the past two mornings and am smelling the fires. No ashes, yet, but that doesn't make me feel much more comfortable. I am PARANOID about wildfires, been up close and personal to too many of 'em.
 

boobs

child of the sun
Veteran
Don't forget what a fantastic vector you make. It pays to pay attention to the 'direction' in which you touch plants. I have a market garden, and the spider mites last year began on my pole beans. I made the mistake of touching the pole beans before my cannabis and they spread. So now everything begins with cannabis, and if I have flowering plants those are touched first, and then those in decreasing order of importance and/or increasing order of health and vigor.

I never touch my plants, seeing people molest their plants, especially budding ones, drives me wild. No reason for it, control yourself. :laughing:

Do you guys smell the fires? I've awakened to a Fire Sky for the past two mornings and am smelling the fires. No ashes, yet, but that doesn't make me feel much more comfortable. I am PARANOID about wildfires, been up close and personal to too many of 'em.

yeah, I smelt it very strong yesterday, especially . :sasmokin:
 
B

bajangreen

Don't forget what a fantastic vector you make. It pays to pay attention to the 'direction' in which you touch plants. I have a market garden, and the spider mites last year began on my pole beans. I made the mistake of touching the pole beans before my cannabis and they spread. So now everything begins with cannabis, and if I have flowering plants those are touched first, and then those in decreasing order of importance and/or increasing order of health and vigor.

Make sense?

Perfect sense, great info.
 
S

SeaMaiden

I learned a LOT about how to control spread of disease and vectoring when I worked at the Long Beach Aquarium of the Pacific (coral lab and quarantine, as well as with the staff veterinarian). Quarantine protocol for ALL new arrivals begins with 30 days of isolation. The organism in question must remain disease- and problem-free for 30 days before it goes on display. If any problems arise (and most all will and do within that time frame) the organism is treated, if possible, and kept in isolation until the problem is resolved. Once it is resolved, the 30 day clock begins again--it MUST be free of problems for a full 30 days to be considered safe for display.

I mean, have you guys seen some of these public aquarium displays? You have to go in with scuba gear and most of the people they have ready and able, certified and approved (you have to have a shit-ton of safety training above and beyond normal scuba certs, as well as a minimum number of dives logged) aren't trained on catching wild fish in wild conditions, let alone net-catching them with minimal harm. So, once it's in there, it's in there!

My favorite thing was the hand-feeding of the baby bamboo sharks. I would wait for the aquarium to open and for the school kids to come through, they loved it! I did, too. I always got requests for the krill I was feeding, and to touch the sharks. They'd get krill with adult approval, but no sharks. The sharks are raised for a release program, btw. AND, the first weedy sea dragons to ever be bred in captivity were bred right at LBAOP! To me that's pretty exciting stuff, especially because I got to meet the gal who bred them (but not work with her, unfortunately, or I would have picked her brain as clean as I possibly could).
 
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