Fungus gnats or WINGED ROOT APHIDS???

[RockyMountainHi]

I think a round or two in the dirt might be in order......

When all else fails - go back to what was working.

I was wondering if freezing could kill the bastards? I'm assuming in nature, they survive the winter, so freezing will only kill the hatchlings and above. So freeze em solid - thaw and warm to 80 let em hatch - and freeze again.

Then I thought about drowning.

A couple days under water?

Both methods are hard on any benificials of course.....

So is the microwave, but they likely won't develop a tollerance either.

 

[GOOROO]

fungus gnat larvae and then a pic of root aphids....same pot....flyers from both...lameeee

 

[RockyMountainHi]

Ok sports fans,, 2 rounds of Imidaclor and 2 rounds of Botanigard and I'm still loosing plants. The Imid should be working and the fungus should be starting to show on the bugs

Generally I am seeing some improvement, but I cut one failing plant yesterday, and found a root aphid by visual in the block. lil fooker looked happy - maybe lonely but happy.

The fungus is suppose to discolor the R/A's from the inside.

 

[puff adder]

I am battling RA's in one of my places. I used MET52 successfully for a while, but just now had to scrap a room's worth of plants as they were too sick to flip.

The plants next in line I have hit with MET52, and IMID, and Azamax, and I was hoping someone can suggest a pyrethrum product I can water in also.

I want to hit the plants with all these products on a schedule while in veg.

I remember reading about someone having some success with a pyrethrum based product that they watered in (root drench) and was hoping I could get that product as well.

Thanks for any help.

 

[GOOROO]

permethrin.....it is available as a bug repellent at walmart...is non systemic, and kills on contact as far as I can tell.

.5% sawyer brand....again sold as a insect repellent for deep woods camping
Permethrin is a pyrethrin based product but is non systemic.

 

[puff adder]

Can this be watered in as a root drench?

What about Pyganic?

 

[Norkali]

$20 for a 3/4 pound...http://www.pestrong.com/567-orthene-97-wp-turf-tree-ornamental-1can-773lb.html

I would suggest 3.3 grams per gallon of water and do at least a 30 minute drench--insuring you cover lip of the container. I do Orthene drenches at every transplant (but not Imid...half-life for Orthene is 4-6 days and Imid is 200-900 days).

And...for guarantee 100% knockdown, add a bit of Riptide (pyrethrin + PBO) a great "oil-less" contact killer; it works on all soil critters including fungus gnats. I add 2.5 ml per gallon to the water/orthene mix.

http://www.pestrong.com/528-riptide...e-misting-insecticide-64-oz-half-gallon-.html

BTW...my two orders with Pestrong.com were made on Wednesday and the mailman delivered them Friday/Saturday.

And yes I do include Imid in my rotation...but at the earliest stage: transplant from rootcube to promix container. My rationale is the tiny bit of Imid (and it's 900 day half-life) absorbed by the rootcube is probably not very significant at harvest time (compared to Imid absorbed by soil in 3-5 gallons containers); plus I enjoy the systemic benefits of both Imid & Orthene--without any residual issues (Orthene's tiny half-life in soil).

The secret to overcome pesticide resistance is a proper rotation of pesticide products with different Modes of Action (MoA)--not "doubling" or "using the right the amount of poison".

Link to the MoA authority: http://www.irac-online.org/teams/mode-of-action/

Cheers!

I just got done doing my final 30 minute drench and cleaning up....and as for the plants....I haven't seen my soil that still, (as in no root aphid crawlers....anywhere,) in I don't know how long. Good God-Jesus-Mary that stuff stinks to high hell, thank god I have my respirator.

Thank you for the advice....now we'll see how I fare with youngin's going into Met52 inoculated soil...

btw, for anybody wondering, 3.3 grams of Orthene is roughly a 'loose' teaspoon or so.

My current IPM arsenal includes:

• Steam cleaning
• Orthene w/Riptide dunks
• Met52 Inoculated Soil
• Will be resuming regular SNS-203 application along with Azatrol
• Botanigard 22WP

Hopefully that'll do it...

 

[wingdings]

iv never brought any plant or clone in from anywhere outside of my grow. i start everything from seed and then clone the plants i start from seed. The rubbermaid bin i use to mix soil in which was still half full of mixed soil was full of aphids when i checked it today. brand new soil. they had to come in from the ffof, the promix, or the perlite. my guess is the ffof because the last time i had them i was only using fox farm. i had no promix in my place last time i had them.

Well this is an old quote but I feel it needs to be brought up again. I stopped using ffof when I dealt with RAs a couple years ago. Stupid me bought some cheap ffof. Well I guess time had me getting forgetful. Yep they are having a party in my veg and flower rooms. They are also running rampant in the tub of premixed ffof I just dumped out. Ugh 14 days in flower I'm feeding I mid to everything in my house today at 45 ml / gal. Worked last time but damn plants are already toast ugh. Fuck you fox farm I know you are garbage.

 

[Field&Stream]

Fungus Gnats are the easy ones, RA's are a biotch.

 

[wingdings]

Update 45 ml of Bayer complete last night. I saw one crawler today in roots I ripped apart from a male and inspected thoroughly. Likely he had not fed yet, new hatchling. Population has been decimated. Plants perked up today. Compost tea and hzyme after they dry out. Also used rockwool for cloning right before attack. Never again using fox farm soil or rockwool

 

[overgrowit]

puff adder, I think you might be referring to Evergreen http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/evergreen-pyrethrum-concentrate-p-1875.html

It worked well for me when i was using an Ebb and grow system.

 

[Peacemonger]

Had "fugus knats"

Had "fugus knats"

Was told to use "Dutch masters" gold "root zone" It's got copper in it. I think it's starting to work at killing the fungus knats that are in the soil. It may take a while to work , but I think it's starting to work. It kills the fungus in your soil where the knats come from...?

 

[puff adder]

I bought a bottle of the Evergreen (Pyganic). Can you tell me what amounts you used? I'm in coco, 2 gallon pots feed to waste. Looking for dosage amounts to mix into the water for root drench.

puff adder, I think you might be referring to Evergreen http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/evergreen-pyrethrum-concentrate-p-1875.html

It worked well for me when i was using an Ebb and grow system.

 

[overgrowit]

I think I used 2ml per gallon in the res constantly while i was battling the RAs.

I found this post

"While talking to some shops in Hawaii, I came across a product called Evergreen. This is an industrial grade pyrethrum. It is 10 times stronger than Take Down. Unlike Take Down it does not have oil in the solution.

You also will use much less (2 ml. per gal.). This allows you to run it throughout the week in your reservoir without oily residue or cost to your pocket. Evergreen is by far the most efficient weapon that I have seen against root aphids and many growers have personally thanked me for the recommendation. However you may have to jump through some hoops to get it. " http://sdhydroponics.com/resources/articles/gardening/getting-rid-of-aphids-–-gardening-pests-part-3

 

[chronjonsc]

Determined

Determined

$20 for a 3/4 pound...http://www.pestrong.com/567-orthene-97-wp-turf-tree-ornamental-1can-773lb.html

I would suggest 3.3 grams per gallon of water and do at least a 30 minute drench--insuring you cover lip of the container. I do Orthene drenches at every transplant (but not Imid...half-life for Orthene is 4-6 days and Imid is 200-900 days).

And...for guarantee 100% knockdown, add a bit of Riptide (pyrethrin + PBO) a great "oil-less" contact killer; it works on all soil critters including fungus gnats. I add 2.5 ml per gallon to the water/orthene mix.

http://www.pestrong.com/528-riptide-mosquitoes-fogging-concentrate-misting-insecticide-64-oz-half-gallon-.html

BTW...my two orders with Pestrong.com were made on Wednesday and the mailman delivered them Friday/Saturday.

And yes I do include Imid in my rotation...but at the earliest stage: transplant from rootcube to promix container. My rationale is the tiny bit of Imid (and it's 900 day half-life) absorbed by the rootcube is probably not very significant at harvest time (compared to Imid absorbed by soil in 3-5 gallons containers); plus I enjoy the systemic benefits of both Imid & Orthene--without any residual issues (Orthene's tiny half-life in soil).

The secret to overcome pesticide resistance is a proper rotation of pesticide products with different Modes of Action (MoA)--not "doubling" or "using the right the amount of poison".

Link to the MoA authority: http://www.irac-online.org/teams/mode-of-action/

Cheers!

I would like to start by thanking those that have come before me. I believe to have hopefully found the answer to my mysterious problem, as it has been described time and again over the pages of this forum. At first I thought I was over watering, or had nutrient lockout issues, thinking that I had springtails and gnats... After numerous attempts, and using a scope, I can see that these little things move quickliy, they hang in the top few inches, although their egg colonies look like chunks of ground pearlight or fungus almost and usually close to the drain hole, they clearly have an aphid, pear shaped body with 6 legs. I thought I had bad gnats issue right before harvest a while back, but determined that they were aphids, as they start flying when the population is too dense in the soil ( IE week 8)...Ive never been a part of a forum before, and appreciate what you guys have done.

Thant all being said Im running perpetual, 2- 3 phases, 8- 12 week strains, in 5 gal soil pots. I tried an Imid product called ProThor on the run before last, and between the bug damage before the application, and suspected overuse of the product / overwatering , the herb was bunk. Ive always been strictly organic, and this thing ( having to deal with this nuisance with chems) has devastated me. The last phase was looking good, so I didnt apply imid and they came back with a vengence, stunting growth in week 7, and never really allowing the weight to stack on.

Since then, I have been applying Merit every few weeks in veg up to day 10 in flower ( 3 applications total for current phase - and still see crawlers), then I found this forum. I ordered the orthene, riptide and Met-52. I have Merit and Mycotrol ( although I have gathered that Met-52 is a far better product than beauvaria bassiana). Can someone clarify if this is true?

Here is what I was thinking:

Start by bleaching and scrubbing entire environment, re-caulking and sealing all intakes to insure environment is sealed. Apply systemics (merit) first to all plants ( done this step)

Follow with Orthene and riptide ( all phases )

Follow up with Met - 52 and maintain throughout flower

Re-innoculate Mycos, and beni's, wonder worm, compost tea, neematodes all phases.

On some regular interval hit moms with merit / riptide... Any suggestions here? 5-7 gallon soil pots?

transplanted clones get merit once, with first water, then orthene/ riptide 2-4 weeks later, inoculating in between and after. If any crawlers at flower day 1, hit again with orth/rip blend, maintain Met -52... Any idea how much / often?


As soon as I can move out and start with a brand new cloner, I will but I am hoping that the above regime will get these little fuckers in line, and put an end to my plague.

So my question to everyone is, with an organic soil medium, organic inoculations, top dressings and top watering in a minimal fashion, growing 6' tall 4-6 oz plants ( starting flower at 36-42"), how much of Orthene, Riptide, Merit and Met 52 is recommended and at what intervals?

Has anyone done this?

Any assistance is greatly appreciated!

 

[chronjonsc]

treatment 2

treatment 2

I would like to start by thanking those that have come before me. I believe to have hopefully found the answer to my mysterious problem, as it has been described time and again over the pages of this forum. At first I thought I was over watering, or had nutrient lockout issues, thinking that I had springtails and gnats... After numerous attempts, and using a scope, I can see that these little things move quickliy, they hang in the top few inches, although their egg colonies look like chunks of ground pearlight or fungus almost and usually close to the drain hole, they clearly have an aphid, pear shaped body with 6 legs. I thought I had bad gnats issue right before harvest a while back, but determined that they were aphids, as they start flying when the population is too dense in the soil ( IE week 8)...Ive never been a part of a forum before, and appreciate what you guys have done.

Thant all being said Im running perpetual, 2- 3 phases, 8- 12 week strains, in 5 gal soil pots. I tried an Imid product called ProThor on the run before last, and between the bug damage before the application, and suspected overuse of the product / overwatering , the herb was bunk. Ive always been strictly organic, and this thing ( having to deal with this nuisance with chems) has devastated me. The last phase was looking good, so I didnt apply imid and they came back with a vengence, stunting growth in week 7, and never really allowing the weight to stack on.

Since then, I have been applying Merit every few weeks in veg up to day 10 in flower ( 3 applications total for current phase - and still see crawlers), then I found this forum. I ordered the orthene, riptide and Met-52. I have Merit and Mycotrol ( although I have gathered that Met-52 is a far better product than beauvaria bassiana). Can someone clarify if this is true?

Here is what I was thinking:

Start by bleaching and scrubbing entire environment, re-caulking and sealing all intakes to insure environment is sealed. Apply systemics (merit) first to all plants ( done this step)

Follow with Orthene and riptide ( all phases )

Follow up with Met - 52 and maintain throughout flower

Re-innoculate Mycos, and beni's, wonder worm, compost tea, neematodes all phases.

On some regular interval hit moms with merit / riptide... Any suggestions here? 5-7 gallon soil pots?

transplanted clones get merit once, with first water, then orthene/ riptide 2-4 weeks later, inoculating in between and after. If any crawlers at flower day 1, hit again with orth/rip blend, maintain Met -52... Any idea how much / often?


As soon as I can move out and start with a brand new cloner, I will but I am hoping that the above regime will get these little fuckers in line, and put an end to my plague.

So my question to everyone is, with an organic soil medium, organic inoculations, top dressings and top watering in a minimal fashion, growing 6' tall 4-6 oz plants ( starting flower at 36-42"), how much of Orthene, Riptide, Merit and Met 52 is recommended and at what intervals?

Has anyone done this?

Any assistance is greatly appreciated!

OK... So today I sprayed 1 cup on the topsoil of each flowering 5 gal pot with 2.5 ml Riptide and 2.5 ml Orthene per gal, and watered in that same strength to 18" tall teens in 6" pots, 2 cups each and my mothers, also in soil ( 5-7 gal pots) with 3-6 cups... I'll let you know how it goes.

 

[kayakush22]

I did a root ball dip in 115 water with neem it worked for me. Still had to trash 2. My yield was definetly compromised but the meds were bug free

 

[RockyMountainHi]

it worked for me. Still had to trash 2.

We must have different definitions of what "worked" means, Amigo.

I've come to the conclusion, it's almost impossible to recover a flowering plant to anything resembleing "normal" and I have my doubts about late veg.

The Botanigard applied in flower can kick the shit out of R/A's in a couple weeks - not what a sick plant needs to hear tho......

 

[EclipseFour20]

EDIT...CORRECTED RATE to 3.3 grams per gallon! My brain was on a 7 gallon batch...sorry!!!!!Orthene & Riptide is successful! 3.3 grams of Orthene per gallon and 5 ml of Riptide....let it soak for a minimum 20 minutes....I mistakenly did a few hours on a set (smoke break) and no issues.

No flushing...no Met...no Imid...nothing else. Just make sure 100% of the container, soil, and about 1-2" of the plant stalk above the soil line is submerged. I would not foliar spray the plant with this solution, and no worries if you get few leaves wet...not harm, no foul.

3-6 day half-life is Orthene's fate in soil....compare that to others....and cheap too!

Cheers!

Edit...Rationale for not foliar spraying: the critters are in the soil not on the leaf; that said, I did foliar spray some outdoor Okra with some excess Root Aphid solution and the aphids had been munching on my Okra all went "bye bye". So, it does work on leaf dwelling critters--but my focus for cannabis is the soil bastard Root Aphids.

Comment about Botaingard...it does work, but one must do repeated applications and long soaks. Probably a good option for the small closet grower, but I required about 4-5 gallons of Botanigard solution to effectively treat each plant...which is about 10 plants per bottle of Botanigard (20 plants if you cheat at half strength). Unfortunately, I am not made of $$$$$$ (Botanigard set me back almost $100/per bottle--after shipping) and my garden is a wee more than just a few plants.

 

[wingdings]

Hey eclipse420 what is the application rate of the orthene again? 3.3 or 23 grams
I'm gonna run the imid orthene riptide combo with beneficial nematodes in the veg and flower room. How late in a cycle are you dunking in orthene ,riptide? Multiple times during flower?
Lol obviously the Imid didn't kill em all. I saw some in a males roots I ripped apart. Def diminished the population tho just not a silver bullet. I need a secret weapon that I can use late in flower.