Yup, those are root aphids, for sure.
The best Bayer, IMO, is the Bayer Advanced, because it has imid for the root aphids, and another contact killer for other stuff.
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Fungus gnats or WINGED ROOT APHIDS???
- Thread starter spleebale
- Start date
Yup, those are root aphids, for sure.
The best Bayer, IMO, is the Bayer Advanced, because it has imid for the root aphids, and another contact killer for other stuff.
As Spleeable said in this very same thread, if you control them you will have no issue from them. I hit my young'ns with the bayer upon entry into my garden. I hit them again right before I start flowering and I have no issue with them since. It seems like a uphill battle when you catch them with no protection. My ladies had stopped drinking and started to go downhill very fast. I had to harvest early and it was a utter disaster. But now they are no longer a issue. Boy that was a painful time.
PS. I still have carpet in my garden but after this pull, I will be removing it. Somwone told me long ago to remove it and I wish I had.
Yup, those are root aphids, for sure.
The best Bayer, IMO, is the Bayer Advanced, because it has imid for the root aphids, and another contact killer for other stuff.
The package looks different but these are the ingredients
Active ingredients: 0.15% Imidacloprid, 0.05% -Cyfluthrin. Concentrated to make 64gal of spray solution
Same stuff?
Just a reminder but I just treated 60gals of res water tonite with little more than a full tsp of the concentrated imid product Merit 75. No aphids since I started using it. No fungus gnats either. For $45 bucks it's the best treatment out there and none of the fillers in the Bayer retail shelf products.
(link to $45 bottle is in this thread)
(link to $45 bottle is in this thread)
M
milehighmedical
.
I had winged root aphids on a couple of clones that I picked up. After finding this thread I did three root drenches with Bayer Tree & Shrub, 10 days between the first two drenches and then again 5 days later (right before going into 12/12). I haven't seen any sign of any kind of bugs since, but I have what appears to be a nitrogen deficiency that won't respond to any treatment. The buds are growing quickly, have now been on 12/12 for 3-1/2 weeks, but the plants continue with the leaf yellowing. It started down low, on the oldest leaves, and has now worked its way up the plants to the newer leaves. The overall color is much yellower than it should be. They are in a scrog, so there isn't any way to check the roots. Any suggestions?
Yeah I started low since its DWC and the roots will sit in it indefinitely. I guess it's closer to 48 gallons since I don't fill up the tubs completely. The higher dosage rate is for drenches and "waterings". There's little to no reliable info on how to use this stuff in hydroponic applications so better to go low than high. Either way, my last crop was aphid free and Merit 75 is what I used. It was the first time I haven't had the phantom mag deficiency and none of that waxy stuff. Yellow sticky traps and gnatrol powder helped too. I ended up with a few fungus gnats stuck to them but no bugs in the root zone.
Yeah 2oz powder bottle was $45. I posted the link to it earlier in this thread.
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Slightly different ratios....but close enough.
Active ingredients: 0.15% Imidacloprid, 0.05% -Cyfluthrin.
With these ratios what should I use for dosage? any ideas
Ganja Goddess
New member
Just checking in... about 20 pages back I treated my plants with IMID to get rid of my RA problem. Off'd the plants and have not had any problems since. I saw Plumbum's post and thought maybe his bug looked like a hypoaspis miles.. Think?
unfortunately i didn't get an answer to my cuestion.. please help me to identify this bug..
Ganja Goddess
New member
They move around quickly according to this you tube video like the ones in another video posted here
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E9kKoNnMb1M
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E9kKoNnMb1M
reckon
Member
Just checking in... about 20 pages back I treated my plants with IMID to get rid of my RA problem. Off'd the plants and have not had any problems since. I saw Plumbum's post and thought maybe his bug looked like a hypoaspis miles.. Think?
RED SPIDER MITE, ganja goddess
http://www.helpfulgardener.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=21258
Ganja Goddess
New member
I agree they look similar... He said they were in the root zone... Didn't say anything about webbing. Hypoaspis lives in the media...
somebody041
Member
One week ago I gave my plants Bayer complete insect control @ 15mL per gallon. Each 7 gallon pot received approx. 1/3 gallon of solution. I put up a new sticky trap upon applying the imid and it has collected 2-4 little bugs per day since application. My partner believes that the life cycle of the adult bugs is long and that we should not be concerned, but I think otherwise. If imid is systemic then shouldn't it kill all bugs that feed on the plant? I believe that the complete insect killer also has a contact killing poison which should further eradicate them.
Ideally, the plants would be flipped into flower in 4-5 days. I don't believe that it would be worth it to flower if they are still infected, and if there are still fliers, then I think they are still infected. Should I apply some azamax and hope to disrupt the cycle to carry me through flower? Should I apply a follow up application of bayer complete insect control? Has anybody tried SM-90?
Ideally, the plants would be flipped into flower in 4-5 days. I don't believe that it would be worth it to flower if they are still infected, and if there are still fliers, then I think they are still infected. Should I apply some azamax and hope to disrupt the cycle to carry me through flower? Should I apply a follow up application of bayer complete insect control? Has anybody tried SM-90?
reckon
Member
you are doing the right thing, you don't need azamax, or sm-90, but,.......
Don't drench the soil, SOAK the pots: that is immerse the entire pot in enough PROPERLY MIXED bayer complete to cover all of the soil by a couple of inches (I use a five gallon bucket for my 1 gallon pots), and leave it in there for about 7 to 10 minutes, making sure you tap it, and tip it to release any trapped air bubbles, then drain completely, and do the next.
you'll need a couple of applications to get all the bugs, and they have a 1 to 2 week life cycle, which is in 4 stages: egg (in a shell tough to kill), larvae (like a worm, very easy to kill), pupae (in a cocoon, again tough to kill), and adult (born pregnant and looking to lay 300 eggs).
the OTHER thing most people overlook, is SECONDARY nesting sites, because as soon as you start poisoning the soil, they start looking for other places to set up shop, like the clone closet, your houseplants, bowls of fruit, damp carpet, drains (especially leaky faucets) etc,...
so think like a bug and walk around and make sure they don't have any place else to go.
I would WAIT on the flowering, for a week or two to let the root system recover, let the adult fliers roaming around die off, and let the IMID dissipate a bit, as it takes more than 21 days to break down (in stonefruit, which is the longest).
just MO, but I wouldn't want to smoke imidacloprid, and you probably don't want to either.
Norkali
Active member
I feel like we're finally getting somewhere here....
Unfortunately everybody was right and the Pyganic didn't do it....everything was cut down, clones taken, and the room is being cleaned. All the advice from has really been a huge help.
I am currently awaiting some Botanigard 22WP....everything will be dunked/soaked multiple times before going back into the room. I hit everything with Merit 75 a couple days before eradicating everything....so that may work to my advantage or it may not....they were all over the floor under the smart pots...vacuumed up everything I could see (panda floor...not impossible like carpet)...I'm sure I didn't get every single one. the Physan 20 should help me clear that up though. Also will be cleaning the drains today....I'm sure (hoping) that the drain cleaner will do the trick on any possible refugees; (shit, if they can survive that I give up.)
I'm really hopeful for the first time in a while....feels pretty good - gives encouragement. Time to go put the goggles & nitriles on......
*Forgot to mention, I am looking for a good insecticidal soap as a secondary control dunk after the Botanigard...any recommendations? M-pede was my choice after reading the "Some Aphids go High" article; but it's only available in 2.5 gallon sized units....pretty sure I don't need that much (or surely there's a more economical concentrate, shipping wise...?)*
Once again, thank-you everybody so much!
Unfortunately everybody was right and the Pyganic didn't do it....everything was cut down, clones taken, and the room is being cleaned. All the advice from has really been a huge help.
I am currently awaiting some Botanigard 22WP....everything will be dunked/soaked multiple times before going back into the room. I hit everything with Merit 75 a couple days before eradicating everything....so that may work to my advantage or it may not....they were all over the floor under the smart pots...vacuumed up everything I could see (panda floor...not impossible like carpet)...I'm sure I didn't get every single one. the Physan 20 should help me clear that up though. Also will be cleaning the drains today....I'm sure (hoping) that the drain cleaner will do the trick on any possible refugees; (shit, if they can survive that I give up.)
I'm really hopeful for the first time in a while....feels pretty good - gives encouragement. Time to go put the goggles & nitriles on......
*Forgot to mention, I am looking for a good insecticidal soap as a secondary control dunk after the Botanigard...any recommendations? M-pede was my choice after reading the "Some Aphids go High" article; but it's only available in 2.5 gallon sized units....pretty sure I don't need that much (or surely there's a more economical concentrate, shipping wise...?)*
Once again, thank-you everybody so much!
Safer Insect Killing Soap concentrate. 16 oz. cost $10 in Ace hardware or HD/Lowes. Can be used as spray or drench. 50 to 1 dilution, or 2.5 ounces per gallon in soft water.
