Fungus gnats or WINGED ROOT APHIDS???

[FoCo(No.Co)]

What made you choose that product? I haven't seen that chemical mentioned anywhere as being effective but I could have missed it. Why that one?

Because bali_man said this on page 1-

-Acetamiprid, Gamma-cyhalothrin were also mentioned as treatments but I have not looked into them - anyone who would like to add on info about them, please?

Acetamiprid is effective for the RAphids once they're beginning to darken and get the harder exoskeleton.

Gamma Cyhalothrin is also highly effective against Root aphids. I've found it does the most damage to the overall population from the tiny newly birthed transparent fucks, all the way to the flyers.

I tried googling Gamma Cyhalothrin after reading that but I couldnt find any products that contained it... When I went into Home Depot and saw it on the label I had to give it a shot.

I have no idea how much to use though, or how to use it, honestly, as the label doesnt cover container plants. I'm assuming it is systemic so maybe I can just mix it up according to the "Lawn Spray" instructions and foliar spray it without doing a root drench.... I'll call the company during the day tomorrow to see what they have to say.

Also, the bottle says it protects for up to 2 months. The Imid bottle said it protects for 3 months. I assumed this means that the Imid will stick around in the plants longer, so I'm guessing that I can use the gamma later in flower than the Imid.

These are all just guesses, mind you, I haven't a clue what I am doing.

 

[humble1]

Humble1 - how strong is the merit that you apply? I think I could just dilute it down but I have never messed with this stuff before, just wondering what you do.

I just looked up the very page I bought it.

Merit 75%
2 ounce bottle 49.99 plus shipping

I don't have the app rate handy, but I can check i out later. It's minimal, though. Something along the lines of 1/2 tsp per 5 gallons. Tiny little bottle lasts a long time cuz I mix about 2 gallons a month, if that.

Sidenote:Gamma Cyhalothrin and Beta Cyfluthrin are nasty chemicals. I would never use them and I urge you to reconsider.

 

[FoCo(No.Co)]

Sidenote:Gamma Cyhalothrin and Beta Cyfluthrin are nasty chemicals. I would never use them and I urge you to reconsider.

The fact sheet that came with the Gamma Cyhalothrin bottle says that you can apply it to vegetables two weeks before harvest.

EDIT: And the WHO lists Gamma Cyhalothrin as only "Moderately Hazardous" to humans.

 

[humble1]

Miracle Grow says that you can use it up until the day of harvest for larger yields. However, real analysis will show you that not only is MG radioactive but without a significant flush you will be ingesting a lot of unnecessary nutrients.
My only point is that you should seek independent verification of all information found on product packaging. One of my Horticulture instructors guessed at the real reason I was in his class and told me to stay away from anything with a gamma-beta-alpha-omicron- anything greek in the name. He wasn't thrilled about the other chemicals I was already using, but he made a special point of singling these guys out.
.02

 

[FoCo(No.Co)]

Here is a Banana Kush plant that is moving into the "total nutreint failure" phase of root aphid infestation. I think she got flipped about 35 days ago.

 

[bali_man]

Because bali_man said this on page 1-

yea gamma is actually a modified pyrethrum based pesticide, and it is HIGHLY effective against these things.

....on a side note, I've seen a few infections from friends grows lately and that coupled with the online statements of how some people are having success/failure is beginning to make me question that there might possibly be more sub species of this beast.

Unfortunately lack of time and resources are hindering my research at the moment, but perhaps we can all take detailed shots (pref at different growth stages and share the images. I've personally got hundreds of shots.

That might very well be why we have such mixed results after attempted treatment.

Only other things that comes to mind is that some people rush through the process while others do a meticulous job.

-Some other facts and experience gained from these fuckers that I can pass along:

When it comes to killing the larvae (young life stage), I've seen nothing work better than insecticidal soap. Remember potassium salts of fatty acids = insecticidal soap. so monitor PH carefully (esp in coco). PH will go 9+.

When helping my friend with his infestation we found that keeping humidity levels under 30% really halts the spread of both the wandering walkers and the flyers.

If you're going to be cutting down and starting over, make sure that there aren't any walkers that are on your foliage, take your cut, submerge it in a glass of iso alcohol, rinse with clean cool water, and bag her.

Just an idea?

I don't have any experience using peppers as insect control , but I recently was gifted some savina habenero, scotch bonnet, and some other peppers that I forgot, but I've never had anything this hot. He also has access to pure capsaicin (10,000,000 scoville +). Now I'm wondering can this be used as some sort of "pepper spray" to possibly blind or physically damage root alpids? I know it'd be hard to get them to ingest it, but perhaps burning their eyes out? I know after having a red savina, as a big human, my intestines felt like they'd been liquified.

-bm

 

[Fat J]

OMFG!!! My mag def/lockout wasnt so! I got these exact symptoms just before i moved 2 my new spot... thought i had locked out due to aggressive feeding and i flushed and let em dry the looked better but then all the mature leaves started rusting and yellowing!! I really need this round 2 work out or im gonna be FUCKED. Ive done many many rounds never seen these fuckers again, and a few days ago i started noticing a lot of what i thought were gnats. FUCK! I gotta try something... I have a secret concoction of herbal oils that seems to kill everything bad ive tried it on with minimal problems. Hmmmm... FUCK! I am assuming that they must mature and emerge at some point to lay eggs, so im gonna give the tops and all access points a nice coat of my oils and let em dry for a day and see what happens with the adult population... I really hope you guys are wrong about all this hope is lost stuff. Did I say FUCK!!?! FUCK!

Oh and I am a week into bloom... F... you get the point. What about ozone, any effect? OMFG reading this thread just blew my BP thru the roof... gonna double check with a jewelers loupe but the symptoms are dead on and i never have nute problems.

 

[Fat J]

Ok hmm... took 20 mins but i caught one of these fuckers! looked under mag glass and yep it looks just like the pic u have up for the root aphids... I'm gonna hold off on my mostly neem oil solution for now as im lookin into these things and i doubt the neem will do much if anything and im goin into bloom so i cant take any chances... I plan on going 55+ days longer on these and I need to be sure all the poison (ugh) is out when i pull. I need to know what is the best thing to use to help preserve my harvest - got a lot riding on this, never had this problem b4. I see you favor Imid? containing products, are there any you can reccomend that would be avalable in california? Also, what concentration should i look for?

My tray is too big/res 2 small to flush to the height of my pots tops (coco ebb/flow) so im gonna take a 5 gal bucket and mix in that and individually dunk each plant to soak them... need to do this tomorrow or friday, so any advice would be really really really appreciated.

FUCK! (had to get it in there, still kinda in shock)

 

[ItsGrowTime]

I appreciate humble1's advice and experience in this thread. Having said that, I don't want to start any shit but I think humble1 is a serious organic grower, hence why there appears to be some disdain for chemical pesticides in humble1's posts. Just an observation. I think it's a part of growing that every grower should decide for themselves.

Not everyone is overly concerned with how organic this or that product is or if one chemical is more harsh than another. If it won't affect the end product, if used correctly, then it's not that important to some of us, if the product does the job (ie killing these aphids). Im still at the very beginning of this fight so take my thoughts for the little bit they're worth in this context.

------

ON TOPIC: Here's the wiki pic of Phylloxera. If it looks like this, with a dark colored body and likes to hang out around your lights then you're reading the right thread. My bugs had smaller wings but there's probably small taxonomical variations between geographical areas (I am east coast fwiw).

 

[CovertCrops]

IGT - thanks for the application rate ideas, and the info off of your label. That was very helpful. My plants are a bit bigger than yours (18"+) but I dosed at 1ml/gal because of the higher concentration of Imid. Seemed like a good idea.

Humble1 - Sounds like you have very concentrated stuff. Good deal. Thanks for the advice against the greek sounding insecticides, I will avoid them. Your inshight has been very helpful.

Here is what I have done so far: Hung up No pest strip as soon as the winged aphids were sighted. No fliers in 3 days since hanging NPS. Applied Bayer Tree and Shrub (1.47% Imid) @ 1 ml/gal into rez. Has been circulating for 12 hours, no ill effects to the plants, yet. (will probably run it in rez until end of the week) The aphids in the root zone were moving much slower if at all this morning. I think I have them on the defensive, will report back.

 

[smokesalot420]

I did a pyrethrum TR bomb last night, Aphids are listed on the label as a target species and I have no fliers to report as of yet. I am also using Azatrol for the root zone (I am in week 3 of flower and the label says the stuff is effective for 4 weeks and also has Aphids as a target species) and Gnatrol (I ALSO have gnats).

FWIW, last year I had both black and green aphids. I live in wine country so these things are prevalent in the area. I have read conflicting information that these can be the same and they change during their life cycle, or that there are 2 different types in my area (I sure fucking hope not). I use sticky traps to identify these things and would post pics if my crappy camera could focus enough to show you them, but I am sure they are aphids of some kind (cornicles on their backs).

 

[HydroManiac]

I appreciate humble1's advice and experience in this thread. Having said that, I don't want to start any shit but I think humble1 is a serious organic grower, hence why there appears to be some disdain for chemical pesticides in humble1's posts. Just an observation. I think it's a part of growing that every grower should decide for themselves.

Not everyone is overly concerned with how organic this or that product is or if one chemical is more harsh than another. If it won't affect the end product, if used correctly, then it's not that important to some of us, if the product does the job (ie killing these aphids). Im still at the very beginning of this fight so take my thoughts for the little bit they're worth in this context.

------

ON TOPIC: Here's the wiki pic of Phylloxera. If it looks like this, with a dark colored body and likes to hang out around your lights then you're reading the right thread. My bugs had smaller wings but there's probably small taxonomical variations between geographical areas (I am east coast fwiw).

I was fighting mites once and took the advice not to use chems to kill them a month later they were still there so I used avid and killed all of them now I use floramite which works great also I have yet to find any organic solution to lots of pests so I think that whatever you can use that will kill them is best as long as a person doesn't go to overboard with it.

 

[GeorgeSmiley]

So first treatment of floromite and azatrol spray and drench aza then spray with pyrethrin was a death camp in there..... second treatment of azamax spray drench and nothing, more fliers on the card, so today I spray floromite and aza/pyreth today so we'll see what's up.

I think I'm, seeing what looks like a little def showing up after 2 solid weeks of awesome growth.

Looking into imid today.

 

[FoCo(No.Co)]

GAMMA-Cyhalothrin!

For anyone who wants more information about this stuff, I just got off the phone with the company rep and here is what I learned:

-Gamma is NON-Systemic, it kills on contact.
-Will stick around in soil, depending on how often and how much you water, and continue to kill bugs for up to 2 months.
-Rep said it is very effective against Phylloxera
-Can be used as a drench and/or a foliar spray, but if you spray, you must wait 21 days prior to harvesting(I specifically asked about spraying on tobacco, so she knew I was going to smoke my plants).
-For a root drench/dip, mix 1 tbs per gallon water.
-For spray, mix 3 tbs per gallon water
-Dont mix it with anything else


Honestly this stuff sounds relatively safe and extremely effective. I will make a report on how it works for me.

 

[Bud Spleefman]

I have a couple plants in my room that have these bastards right now, FUCK!!!! Here are some photos, they have now hatched and are making a run for the other plants, I've spread Diatomacious Earth all over the floor in my grow, as well as spraying X-clude on the buckets themselves, but I need to figure something out to flush my DWC system with that won't affect the harvest, I am about 26 days from being done. So far, only 2 plants.....

I'll read this thread, it's grown about 4 pages since I last looked....

Swarm of root aphids hatched out of one bucket, looking for others...



Nasty Roots after being eaten by Aphids



Dying AK47 x Bubblegum Plant



I'm all ears if anyone has any advice. Obviously Azatrol isn't effective on these fuckers.

 

[Fat J]

SO i found this stuff that has .25% pyrethrin and it says to use 5oz/gal (liquid) as foliar, but i want to use it as a dunk and really get these bastards, so what strength would you guys say? Lady at the store said like 2-3 oz/gal for a dunk... sound good?

Also, it has 10% sulphur, and the rest is inert fillers... says not to use on sulphur sensitive plants, you guys think this could hurt my little ladies?

I want to do this treatment tomorrow so if any1 could help i would really appreciate it

 

[smokesalot420]

If you have multiple plants I would try it on one and see how the plant deals with it and how effective it is against the bugs or you risk killing them all like I did last year.

 

[cornflake]

(Imid is the same substance used in Advantage and Frontline for pets - it is based off nicotine and probably has similar toxicity. It smells like Advantage tho, and is probably not great for you. It deserves noting that yesterday I made a 3X concentration mix with Bayer Complete Insect Killer [which also has Beta-Cyfluthrin in it] and set it up to water through irrigation and the hose was loose and came off, spraying all over my face and down my torso... I immediately showered, but don't feel bad... I'll let you know)

-you'll be fine, as long as you didn't ingest any

bali_man your reply seems confused.

if a person's skin contacts poison it will absorb it, this is dermal absorption, the same way dogs and cats absorb the poison to kill the fleas via their pet collars

ingesting is only 1 method of being poisoned, careful of the advice you give

 

[mad librettist]

has anyone tried tobacco tea?

shit works... haven't tried it for root aphids (phyloxera, right?)

 

[ItsGrowTime]

Just saw an old thread about Phylloxera got bumped up so here's the link:

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=70503