Fungus gnats or WINGED ROOT APHIDS???

[Old Fogey]

Last few posts were excellent! So now that I've done all I can to lock things up and tried adding Cal/mg further locking it up, as well as a desperate attempt to add wood ash as a top dress. I removed all the ash I could and watered with zymes, 2 days later feed, 2 days later water zymes etc. Flowers look ok but tops are pointy and slow now at 35 days. When your done laughing please tell me how to fix it. PH run off tests 6.5. Was thinking of feeding at 5.5 ph to correct. But lock out would still exist? Thanks and have a safe New Year.

I had terrible complications last grow and learnt a hell of a lot about nute lockout and PH issues and how to overcome them.

I don't recommend watering at a PH outside of the range you have settled on as being the best for your system and the plants you are growing. Mine is PH 6.0 to 6.2 growing in clay pebbles in a E&F tray.

I've tried that approach in my last grow (offsetting high PH coming out with a lower PH going in) and it just further complicates your PH issues by causing fluctuations to be more severe. You can watch them recover over several hours, then when next checking the plants you may find them in a worse state than they were the day before.

Going from PH 5.5 in an attempt to counter against the PH 6.5 coming out will do that to your grow and it isn't good.

I recently found the following, it will help you.

Measure the PH (and the EC too if you have a wand) of the runoff or the return water to your res after feeding:

If the PH has risen and the EC has fallen = Nutrient levels are too low in the water going in

If the PH has fallen and the EC has risen = Nutrient levels are too high in the water going in.


There are other variables, including the PH that your substrate/soil was/is/has become over the period of the grow and you will struggle to get fluctuations down to PH 0.2 (say for me in clay pebbles E&F tray, 6.0 - 6.2) between the water going in and the water that comes out. But that should be your aim.

If using new clay pebbles, be sure to soak them in PH'd water before use ror 24 hours or so to lower the PH to around 5.8-6.0 (aim for 6.0 but don't be afraid to dip a bit lower).

If your plants like PH 6.0, give them PH'd feed at 6.0. Use the metric above to adjust your feed levels and try to control PH fluctuations that way. Your plants will thank you for it.

Another trap you may fall into is increasing the frequency of watering events to try and minimize fluctuations in PH. This will cause as much trouble as nute-lockout and is in fact harder to correct once it has set in on a plant.

Basically, feed at the correct rate, at the correct PH and using the correct volumes of water and your current grow will come to hand in a matter of days or perhaps longer. You will see immediate improvement for sure, in just a few hours.

Get it right from the beginning of your next grow and it will take care of itself.

Peace

 

[Lyfespan]

found these lil fuckers just walking around the tops of the cups in circles. SM-90 is on its way for drenching, azamax for spraying, and tanglefoot on orange solo cups

 

[Plant tanner]

Thanks Chris,
Glad to see you made it to the other side of this awful pestilence.
Botaniguard didn't help me much either, acephate 97 kicks their butt tubes but they are back three weeks later.

It seems you need very high humidity to keep the beneficial fungus working also helps the powdery mildew take off.

I'm scared of imid and no pest strips imid stays in the soil so long and accumulates in the vegetation .

Acephate breaks down much quicker.

I bought another fungus,Preferral which needs 80 percent humidity for eight hours if I recall.

It's omri which doesn't matter much now but if it works I'd use it as a preventative

Also got a sample of Root Cleaner which says it kills the eggs too.

After heat treating the flower room I moved my plants in and when the lights came on I saw fliers on the rims so plan as it stands looks like
Acephate, root cleaner, hypoaspis miles and add mycorrhizae,Prefferal 80 rh 8 hrs

All of this on top of Botaniguard,met 52 grains,nematodes,og biowar,bacillus subtillus,azosol folier, and Gnatrol these are some expensive plants

 

[StankyBeamer]

found these lil fuckers just walking around the tops of the cups in circles. SM-90 is on its way for drenching, azamax for spraying, and tanglefoot on orange solo cups

[URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=60441&pictureid=1588346&thumb=1]View Image[/url]

Those little guys are gonna swallow the sm-90 and ask what else ya got. Get acephate, riptide, and kontos. Spectracide works well as a soil drench, just didnt work 100% for me

 

[Lyfespan]

Those little guys are gonna swallow the sm-90 and ask what else ya got. Get acephate, riptide, and kontos. Spectracide works well as a soil drench, just didnt work 100% for me

im also using EM-1 in my watering days, its responsible for driving the lil buggers out of the soil, they do NOT like the coco with that stuff in there . added some timed sprayers with pyrethrum spray to the rooms as well to kill whatever wants to expose themselves.

 

[Andyo]

dry cycles in perlite

dry cycles in perlite

I was running ebb/flow buckets with hydroton and got root aphids .
I also had 5 plants in 10 litre pots of perlite hand watering
I never had root aphids in the perlite pots,
I run wet /dry in perlite when i say dry i mean bone dry plants just about to flag.
At this time i tested 1 cutting in coco and put a 1/2 in layer of perlite on top of the coco no root aphids.A

 

[GET MO]

I dont know wut these are, but i never seen no root aphids that look like this... but they do look like some type of aphid tho. the green/brown one is still alive, but looks to be in the process of dieing. the rest are dead, dont think they could hang with the thc levels...

little monsters..

 

[expealadocious]

A thin layer of sand on top of your soil fks up their world.

 

[mojave green]

I was running ebb/flow buckets with hydroton and got root aphids .
I also had 5 plants in 10 litre pots of perlite hand watering
I never had root aphids in the perlite pots,
I run wet /dry in perlite when i say dry i mean bone dry plants just about to flag.
At this time i tested 1 cutting in coco and put a 1/2 in layer of perlite on top of the coco no root aphids.A

Do you think it's the perlite or the wet/dry cycle keeping them away?

 

[cannascholar]

I found decent success recently using Pfr-97. Also used Rove beatles, hypoasis mites, and nematodes. Kontos works as well but hate using it.

 

[GET MO]

Well looks like battle number 2 (3?) for me. I now know these little buggars are just in the enviroment all around where im at so there is no complete eradication. I seen some up in my aunts outdoor pots about 300 yards up the road, and in the soil down by the stream 100 yards down the other way.
So this is the plan....

I've been amending my coco with neem seed meal, insect frass, and crab meal at about 1 1/2 cups per 5 gallon bucket of coco. I thought it was working, but turns out it was just too cold, cuz soon as spring hit hard, so did they. I may continue this anyways just for the chiton or whatever thats good for the plants.

I plan to switch from regular plastic pots to thick cloth pots. According to a poster on another site this keeps them from climbing through the bottom holes, and they cant crawl through the thick pots themselves.

Next I plan to get a layer of sandbox sand, about two to three inches on top of each pot. On top of that one inch of perlite, and perhaps some DE (not sure about that part yet.

Every two weeks I will do a full strength dose of ogbiowar drench. also botaniguard every two weeks, offset so one is applied every week.

I will use these strategies in my veg as well, but will dose early veg with bayer complete insect soil drench too.

I know I cant get rid of them completely, but hopefully this will keep them out of my grow room pots. Its a shame i gotta do all this extra shit but its either that or quit growing, uz they will continue to come back.

 

[Granger2]

Get Mo,
The fungus in Botanigard is also contained in OGBioWar. You should drench using both the Root and Foliar OGBW. Hope this saves you some money. Good luck. -granger

 

[Miraculous Meds]

Maybe think about incorporating hot water treatments, and another member reported success keeping them out with scent free fabric softener sheets.

 

[DONAJTHEIII]

Well looks like battle number 2 (3?) for me. I now know these little buggars are just in the enviroment all around where im at so there is no complete eradication. I seen some up in my aunts outdoor pots about 300 yards up the road, and in the soil down by the stream 100 yards down the other way.
So this is the plan....

I've been amending my coco with neem seed meal, insect frass, and crab meal at about 1 1/2 cups per 5 gallon bucket of coco. I thought it was working, but turns out it was just too cold, cuz soon as spring hit hard, so did they. I may continue this anyways just for the chiton or whatever thats good for the plants.

I plan to switch from regular plastic pots to thick cloth pots. According to a poster on another site this keeps them from climbing through the bottom holes, and they cant crawl through the thick pots themselves.

Next I plan to get a layer of sandbox sand, about two to three inches on top of each pot. On top of that one inch of perlite, and perhaps some DE (not sure about that part yet.

Every two weeks I will do a full strength dose of ogbiowar drench. also botaniguard every two weeks, offset so one is applied every week.

I will use these strategies in my veg as well, but will dose early veg with bayer complete insect soil drench too.

I know I cant get rid of them completely, but hopefully this will keep them out of my grow room pots. Its a shame i gotta do all this extra shit but its either that or quit growing, uz they will continue to come back.

I have constant fliers that find there way into my grow like you there nearby outside. I would look into spraying something around your grow perimeter to keep them out im using cedar oil like Granger mentioned and I'm seeing less of them. I had one aphid outbreak due to a random ant infestation but that's when I wasn't using sm-90. Knock on wood but a sterile res and cloth pots seem to keep things in check with periodic azamax drenches.

I would look into a perimeter product or there going to keep coming back no matter how many methods you try

 

[GET MO]

Yeah i put a layer of gravel about 10 ft all around my shed, thought that would help but nope. Guess I gotta go further. Problem is the stream I have about 20 yards away. Flyers really dont bother me as long as they cant get to soil... I was thinkin bout puttin some tangle foot around the base of each plant too, and maybe a ring of tape with tanglefoot around each pot. Make it so the only way in would be flying to the thick layer of perlite and sand and getting through it...

 

[GET MO]

Someone told me to use the bayer complete in veg. I was bout to spray some, but then i read the label....

"D not harvest or consume nuts or fruits from trees that have been treated within 1 year."

Im finna go ahead and trust that, and not put this shit on my plants.

 

[DONAJTHEIII]

Someone told me to use the bayer complete in veg. I was bout to spray some, but then i read the label....

"D not harvest or consume nuts or fruits from trees that have been treated within 1 year."


View Image

Im finna go ahead and trust that, and not put this shit on my plants.

I would use bayers veggie and citrus when there still in cubes or plugs. Just dip the rooted cubes a day before you plan to transplant and that should be enough. Then use the other products to keep them at bay. Its really about coverage. I spray cedar oil twice a day around perimeter once in day once at night

 

[GET MO]

used some mycotrol o, finna let the plants dry out over next 2-3 days then another dose, then sand over the tops, then og biowar tea every week till harvest. Hopefully this keep um back n let me see wut these tester plants can do lightweight...

 

[Vintage1969]

I kept my population down to very small numbers, when I have them in the past, with predatory nematodes, combination of Sf and HB. I watered in every two weeks, starting in beg, and had pretty good results, completely non-chemical approach. Just never let your pots dry out. I also was using quite a lot, 10 million, for 4 lights, every 2 weeks.

 

[mojave green]

I kept my population down to very small numbers, when I have them in the past, with predatory nematodes, combination of Sf and HB. I watered in every two weeks, starting in beg, and had pretty good results, completely non-chemical approach. Just never let your pots dry out. I also was using quite a lot, 10 million, for 4 lights, every 2 weeks.

What's "Sf and HB"?