Fungus gnats or WINGED ROOT APHIDS???

[joe mac]

Joe Mac,
I use todes periodically in coco/perlite with good success. I'm pretty sure they drown in a few hours in water. Give it a try. Good luck. -granger

Also, to clarify, there are a crapload of aphid species. Ants will wrangle them to feed on the honeydew they excrete. Root Aphids are not any old aphid species that ants have dragged below the surface of the medium to feed on your roots. They are subterranian species of aphids that feed on roots. They don't need to be placed there. They are root feeders. -granger

I only flood for 20minutes once a day so that should work good then

Thank you

If you want to KILL root aphids and never have them come back then use Bayer Complete contol, this is a kill solution, not a control solution. I have delt with these lil buggers with lots of products none of them worked to kill them and not have them come back, Bayer will work. add it to you res, water your medium with it. my medium is coco so I added it to my res and and killed them their eggs and was done with it, then I did full fush and and have never had root aphids or gnats again an yes' it will work for rockwool, or hydro too.

I have and am currently hitting them hard with garant25 which is a more concentrated form of the bayer (25%imidacloprid)They have developed an immunity to it apparently.

Either way that stuff is not safe in flower. I was asking about nematodes for flower. To go with my sns and met 52.The nematodes are on their way and I am looking for a little more information on how to use them.

I have a pretty good plan for veg. I soaked my moms for 4 hours the other day in a Strong solution of the garant and abamectin. I have not seen one moving bug since. It's been five days now. Apparently the abamectin is very effective as a knockdown poison for aphids as well as mites.

I also have some of the riptide coming and am gonna soak them in the orthene/riptide hopefully early next week. with weekly soakings for the next two months or so as their life cycle is around six weeks.

My goal here is to make the veg. side too toxic for them to eat. and my flower side to repulsive for them with the sns which has been very effective so far for me to drive them out of the rootzone. Combined with the met which is reported to have had good results and the nematodes to wage war on my behalf.

Two months of twice weekly soakings and HOPEFULLY they look for "greener" pastures so to speak.


I appreciate you guys trying to help me. Any and all advice or experience is welcomed. d

 

[medicalmj]

Joe Mac,
I use todes periodically in coco/perlite with good success. I'm pretty sure they drown in a few hours in water. Give it a try. Good luck. -granger

Also, to clarify, there are a crapload of aphid species. Ants will wrangle them to feed on the honeydew they excrete. Root Aphids are not any old aphid species that ants have dragged below the surface of the medium to feed on your roots. They are subterranian species of aphids that feed on roots. They don't need to be placed there. They are root feeders. -granger

Its pretty frustrating that academia has not investigated RAs more. The few U's that have researched it still put out the info that ants and RAs comprise a symbiotic relationship. Not that RAs are normally terrestrial, rather RAs are truly subterranean and ants facilitate their movements underground. They dig tunnels for the RAs.

 

[azmeds]

I have been instructed to put a layer of sand down on top of plants to control fungus gnats before, is this something that would work with aphids as well?

 

[Granger2]

You mean Root Aphids [subterranean] or foliar attacking Aphids? -granger

 

[azmeds]

I was talking about subterranean, not to completely eradicate them, but more to control them.

 

[Gelado`]

Knocked my RAs out with permethrin (0.1%) and Azamax (European equivalent) soil drenches. The permethrin did most of the work, and the Azamax made the ones that were left jump ship, and fast. I found RAs outside my grow tent looking pretty unhappy. No trace of them now!

 

[Granger2]

Here's a good article...
http://www.bioworksinc.com/products/shared/root-aphid-control-article.pdf

The Root Aphid section is helpful. -granger

 

[EclipseFour20]

Here's a good article...
http://www.bioworksinc.com/products/shared/root-aphid-control-article.pdf

The Root Aphid section is helpful. -granger

Yep...that article and advice from Ray Cloyd is what directed me to Orthene (acephate).

Second sentence in the first paragraph under "Results" on the 2nd page--"Orthene applications provided the best control, with close to 100 percent mortality of root aphids."

Pyrethrin products also aid in "immediate knock-out" of RAs--hence the Riptide & Orthene Recipe I developed and posted on this thread.

100% mortality is a fact!

Cheers!

BTW--been "Root Aphid free" for several years now...my can of Orthene is over 3 years old and about half full....lol!

 

[DabSnob]

Spent 2 months fighting RA's, used a different product every treatment. In flower i used Botanigard ES at 3x the recommended dose every 3 days. in Veg i used everything from Bayer Advanced, Triazicide, SNS-203, Acephate, and azamax. After the last triazicde treatment i havent seen a single one in over 3 months now. i still vigorously check each pot after harvest to make sure.

 

[azmeds]

I am going to try Botanigard since I am already in flower. what do you think about sand on the top of pots to try to at least keep them confined to one room?

 

[joe mac]

I am going to try Botanigard since I am already in flower.

I believe botanigard is not the right bacteria for aphids.

Supposedly met52 is better. I just received mine so we'll see.

I did a soak with abamectin/imid a week ago in veg. and still no moving aphids in my buckets. It fried some roots tho as I mixed it very strong. All in all I am pleased to not see any moving bugs after a week and am getting new root growth now.

i received my riptide yesterday and will be doing an orthene/riptide soak soon.

I got my met 52 and my nematodes this week. I will be adding them to flower soon.

I am currently mixing some sns203&209 directly into my flower rez. and there are noticably fewer aphids floating in the buckets with this alone.

 

[Granger2]

Botanigard worked for me on Root Aphids, along with other measures. I am mixing Met52 in my new coco/perlite. After 2 months no signs of RA's or their symptoms. Prior to the new medium, I did a 30 min soak in Cedarcide PCO Choice, followed immediately with a pH'd tap flush.

Getting ready to go from beer cups to 3 gal. AeroBags. Very root bound. New mix will of course have Met52.

Skipping Botanigard this time. Will report outcome. -granger

 

[DabSnob]

I am going to try Botanigard since I am already in flower. what do you think about sand on the top of pots to try to at least keep them confined to one room?

botanigard worked for me, just use more then suggested (2TBS/gal) and at more frequent intervals. Every 3 days for 5 treatments worked like a dream for me. i found thousands dead after the third treatment.

you could try sand, if anything it helps keep the fliers in/out. remember to cover the drainage holes too.

MET52 takes around 2 weeks to inoculate, but conditions must be ideal for the fungus to colonize. it works THE BEST for preventative measures, anything going in wont come out alive. but i dont recommend it for flowering plants.

 

[joe mac]

MET52 takes around 2 weeks to inoculate, but conditions must be ideal for the fungus to colonize. it works THE BEST for preventative measures, anything going in wont come out alive. but i dont recommend it for flowering plants.

why not for flowering plants?

 

[SirSteely]

I got my met 52 and my nematodes this week. I will be adding them to flower soon.

Just a thought...Wont all the pesticides already in your medium just kill the nematodes as soon as they are added??? Thought you had to be pretty organic for nematodes to survive?

 

[joe mac]

Just a thought...Wont all the pesticides already in your medium just kill the nematodes as soon as they are added??? Thought you had to be pretty organic for nematodes to survive?

just using them in flower. Been several weeks at least before these plants have seen any poison.

Nematodes are supposed to be compatible with the sns203&209. All I am using in flower currently.

 

[DabSnob]

I am going to try Botanigard since I am already in flower. what do you think about sand on the top of pots to try to at least keep them confined to one room?

botanigard worked for me, just use more then suggested (2TBS/gal) and at more frequent intervals. Every 3 days for 5 treatments worked like a dream for me. i found thousands dead after the third treatment.

you could try sand, if anything it helps keep the fliers in/out. remember to cover the drainage holes too.

I believe botanigard is not the right bacteria for aphids. Supposedly met52 is better.

I am currently mixing some sns203&209 directly into my flower rez. and there are noticably fewer aphids floating in the buckets with this alone.

MET52 takes around 2 weeks to inoculate, but conditions must be ideal for the fungus to colonize. it works THE BEST for preventative measures, anything going in wont come out alive. but i dont recommend it for flowering plants because of the inoculation time.

SNS-203 did work well for me too, i noticed hundreds evacuating the pots within minutes of treatment.

honestly its all about rotating products, dont give them a chance to build an immunity. also follow the life cycle, every 3-5 days they mature to the next stage of development. if you can hit them hard every 3-5 days with a different product you will rid yourself of these fuckers for good. just gotta have the $$$ to spend on the right products.

 

[DabSnob]

why not for flowering plants?

the inoculation time, after 2 weeks your already 1/4 of the way through flower. also giving them 2 weeks to breed without another treatment causes huge population increases, making it much harder to irradicate them.

 

[joe mac]

the inoculation time, after 2 weeks your already 1/4 of the way through flower. also giving them 2 weeks to breed without another treatment causes huge population increases, making it much harder to irradicate them.

I figured i'd keep treating with the sns203&209 in the meantime. Also thinking about adding some riptide to my rez.

This should all be compatible with the met. Correct?

Do you know if the met is compatible with stuff like orthene? I am getting ready to use it in veg.

thanks for any advice on this matter

 

[joe mac]

well according to the article granger put up botanigard is compatible with orthene so the met should be too eh?

I have heard of the professor ray cloyd before. I trust his opinions.