yerboyblue
Member
Glad it's only one plant, hopefully the rest don't go that way. Mine took longer to go south. I'll cross my fingers for you too.
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Fungus gnats or WINGED ROOT APHIDS???
- Thread starter spleebale
- Start date
Kronikal_kiwi
Member
Alright, so I've killed that plant, I have seven remaining that dont look too bad.
I have flushed them, and go in there daily and rough up the surface of the soil, when the little bastards come out I spray them with orthene. So far I am seeing a drastic reduction in numbers.
When do I start ferts again?
And how do I reintroduce them? Straight back at 1.2 EC (these girls like a week feeding) or ease it back up there?
I have flushed them, and go in there daily and rough up the surface of the soil, when the little bastards come out I spray them with orthene. So far I am seeing a drastic reduction in numbers.
When do I start ferts again?
And how do I reintroduce them? Straight back at 1.2 EC (these girls like a week feeding) or ease it back up there?
Minister
Member
Sorry for sounding so rough and conclusive.
I'm confident Kronical can do his own thinking and if Granger proved me wrong then thats good.
Still find that this type of infestation has a tipping point, and beyond that, there is only greif and hair pulling.
If the roots have been munched, the plants will just sit there, developing worse and worse light burn symptoms, from the tip going in, most pronounced at the upper third excluding the very grow tip.
Wether it is caused by not being able to pull the nutes or because of poisonous saliva from the bugs I dont know.
Best of luck kronical kiwi and all of you fighting this battle.
I'm confident Kronical can do his own thinking and if Granger proved me wrong then thats good.
Still find that this type of infestation has a tipping point, and beyond that, there is only greif and hair pulling.
If the roots have been munched, the plants will just sit there, developing worse and worse light burn symptoms, from the tip going in, most pronounced at the upper third excluding the very grow tip.
Wether it is caused by not being able to pull the nutes or because of poisonous saliva from the bugs I dont know.
Best of luck kronical kiwi and all of you fighting this battle.
hydrodreams
Member
Eclipse gave me a compliment before because I did research first and not shoot first.
I guess he was wrong. I shot first. My white micros seem to be any type of predatory mites....
But I shot first by spending 850$ on Imid, met52, orthene, riptide.... Except for the Imid, nothing is opened and brandnew.
I hate myself for this.
I guess he was wrong. I shot first. My white micros seem to be any type of predatory mites....
But I shot first by spending 850$ on Imid, met52, orthene, riptide.... Except for the Imid, nothing is opened and brandnew.
I hate myself for this.
Minister
Member
Guess you are not the sit around and wait kind of guy.
Bold and brave you are coming forth telling about an honest mistake, you got to have credit for that.
Look at the bright side: No aphids, and if you get any, you can take action at once. Your research is also bound to make you a better grower, knowing what is out there.
Up on that horse.
Bold and brave you are coming forth telling about an honest mistake, you got to have credit for that.
Look at the bright side: No aphids, and if you get any, you can take action at once. Your research is also bound to make you a better grower, knowing what is out there.
Up on that horse.
hydrodreams
Member
Yes, I was thinking the same. But a very expensive lesson. At the end of the day we are farmers. Except for the value of the endproduct we have the same problems and chalenges like the "normal" farmers.
To become a good grower with consistent results is just possible by collecting experience, there is no shortcut.
But I think there is a lot of people who would easily pay 850$, if they knew they would be rid of them guaranteed...
The whole experience made me much more sensitive when it comes to identify a bug and also being aware that there is bugs out there that are much worser than spider mites.
Thanks anyway to all the contributers again.
yerboyblue
Member
Well, the nice thing about the met 52, which I can assume is where most of that $850 went, is that it is a good preventative measure. I would use it anyway even if I knew I didn't have RA, just because I know they are out there. Also, I believe they sell 1Kg bags on ebay for around $90? You might be able to make your money back. Also if you haven't opened it you might be able to return it or sell it as a whole to someone else.
And having an amazing pyrethrin product like riptide in your arsenal is never a bad thing.
yerboyblue
Member
Ease it back. Wait as long as you can, I believe the half life of Orthene is 6-14 days, luckily it is very water soluable so the flush should have helped get it out quite a bit. Start with half strength nutes. If you have to give it more a few days later than so be it. I would recommend using some beneficials like mycorhizzae (or however TF it's spelled lol). The roots are very damaged because of the bugs and Orthene, so the plants won't uptake a whole dose of nutrients.
Funny how one plant did way worse than the rest with the dose, I had the same thing happen too, the one completely died and the rest were basically dead, but they held on enough for some of the tops to get a little more resin.
yerboyblue
Member
Take a break from perpetual and let stuff finish, spectracide and hot shot no pest strip the rooms, run lights 12/12 for a few days with no plants, and then start mixing met 52 in with your soil from there on out, as soon as clones go into medium.
I am finding that I can get clones fairly big in aerocloners so there wouldn't necessarily be a huge down time. The nice thing about a temp hydro set up like that, is you can inspect the roots, and it's easy as heck to dip in riptide solution before you plant, just in case.
ballplayer 2
Active member
Do pesticides continue to dissipate after the plant is cut down? Or is the only way for the substance to break down via metabolism (plant growth)? I know its probably a stupid question, but it is one I dont know the answer to. If the pesticides do break down after chop, then we could do an extra long cure... or a sightly extended storage until we feel comfortable with breakdown time.
Thanks for your time guys
BP2
Thanks for your time guys
BP2
yerboyblue
Member
You might have just opened a can of worms with this one. Probably worthy of a new thread, but there will be a lot of heated arguments lol.
Met52 should be tossed into the discusion. It is a non-systemic fungus like Botanigaurd. It is a natural way to kill RA's. It is based on a different fungus called Metahizuim. Ive done a side by side comparison and found that Met is a better strain of fungus as far as it seems to offer a quicker supression of RA's. Also, Met will come in two forms, liquid and Granular. I like granular because i can mix it thouroghly in advance so that im sure that the fungus is consistant within my media.Batanigaurd is only liquid which is difficult to apply evenly. The RA's will travel to the one spot of the root zone that was not treated. The fungus will continue to grow within the rootzone with the plants so you should only need one application. The downside to MEt52 is that is difficult to find. There are a couple of online stores that offer it but I found a dude in Colo. at 214.335.9496 thats cheaper and ships anywhere. Met or Botanigaurd do not kill bene's which is very cool. I know of a guy who likes to add Met52 and bene nemotodes to prevent RA's from coming back and he loves the results. Using both can be a little costly but he makes up for the costs by having great harvests everytime. People need to remember that while treating for RA's in the root zone that you cant forget about treating for the fliers. I noticed that fliers will develope after treating with met because they are trying to adapt and escape. You will never kill off all the RA's without paying attention to fliers. Must treat for both. Also, apply hygrozyme if you have RA's. It will help rehab rootzone. It works. Consider using a roots excelerator. Use multiple solutions to encourage new root growth. Great thread. Good info!
H2O2 will breakdown pesticides and is commonly used for that purpose in agribusiness. Use 35% foodgrade. I forgot the rate but a google search will do. You can even spray/dunk/soak after harvest but preferable before it drys. It also kills any mold/mildew spores. Some will take freshly trimmed buds and do soak/dunk then hang.
nachoconqueso
Member
Dear coco growers,
You may heat treat your coco and source your plants from seed. Clean the equipment, bake at 220 for 90 minutes, and saturate with cool water. Haven't had them for years. As for the rest of you...you're fucked. Good luck with the pesticides though.
You may heat treat your coco and source your plants from seed. Clean the equipment, bake at 220 for 90 minutes, and saturate with cool water. Haven't had them for years. As for the rest of you...you're fucked. Good luck with the pesticides though.
nachoconqueso
Member
Lol
@ uptown: I'm sorry man! It did come off as mean. It is pretty funny though. I remember doing the Bayer thing. I hated it. Kinda feel bad for you guys.
