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Fresca sol water cooled grow fixture- anyone try one?
- Thread starter rr14
- Start date
A
avgjoe
From what I saw at the hydro shop of the fresca sol... plants could probably pretty much touch the fixture. I literally used my bare hand and held the fixture while the bulb was blazing away. It felt luke warm - not remotely uncomfortable. And this was WITHOUT a chiller in the res. just 50 gallons circulating through one fixture.
I then wrote the mfg and he said running them vertically is not a problem and that they can be daisy chained together.
interesting.
also, I would imagine this could save lotsa money on AC with the right setup.
I can look for more details or ask questions nxt time i am around if ya guys want. they still have it set up.
peace.
I then wrote the mfg and he said running them vertically is not a problem and that they can be daisy chained together.
interesting.
also, I would imagine this could save lotsa money on AC with the right setup.
I can look for more details or ask questions nxt time i am around if ya guys want. they still have it set up.
peace.
a uv sterilizer would stop any algae growth..... im sure is some chemical you could use
mono-chloramine seems to spring to mind..... like what you put in an above ground kiddie pool......
mono-chloramine seems to spring to mind..... like what you put in an above ground kiddie pool......
A
avgjoe
it was the fresca sol i saw.
the steriliser can be just outside the growroom by the lighting res.......,
chlorine will prevent algae but you woul hav to keep adding it as it breaks down fast...thats why i said mono-chloramine....its a mixture of chlorine and ammonia and it lasts a lot longer in the water than plain chlorine, and it doesnt eveaporate out withaeration- actually ppl should pay attention to tht, most ppl put their tap water out overnight to evaporate the chlorine, and some aerate it for the same reason...but many water companies now use the monochloramine instead of chlorine in tapwater because it last longer...... It might be worthwhile finding out of u have chlorine or mono-chloramine in ur water as if it Mono-chloramine, then bubbling it or leaving standing for a week wont make any difference, and any beneficial bacteria you are using are dead as dead......
chlorine will prevent algae but you woul hav to keep adding it as it breaks down fast...thats why i said mono-chloramine....its a mixture of chlorine and ammonia and it lasts a lot longer in the water than plain chlorine, and it doesnt eveaporate out withaeration- actually ppl should pay attention to tht, most ppl put their tap water out overnight to evaporate the chlorine, and some aerate it for the same reason...but many water companies now use the monochloramine instead of chlorine in tapwater because it last longer...... It might be worthwhile finding out of u have chlorine or mono-chloramine in ur water as if it Mono-chloramine, then bubbling it or leaving standing for a week wont make any difference, and any beneficial bacteria you are using are dead as dead......
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dew point was something else added into the mix when using a liquid cooled light. I saw this after doing a google search:
In Fahrenheit
For example, a relative humidity of 100% means dew point is same as air temp. For 90% RH dew point is 3 degrees Fahrenheit lower than air temp. For every 10 percent lower, dew point drops 3 °F.
Tfd is in degrees Fahrenheit; RH same as above.
So using super cold water really isn't the best option either because you'll get "sweat" all over the lights and dripping onto your floor. I figure that I'd shoot for about 40%-45% humidity so that would give me about 16.5* difference between the fluid temp and the air temp for the dew point.
Does this stuff sound about right or is it completely wrong?
In Fahrenheit
For example, a relative humidity of 100% means dew point is same as air temp. For 90% RH dew point is 3 degrees Fahrenheit lower than air temp. For every 10 percent lower, dew point drops 3 °F.
Tfd is in degrees Fahrenheit; RH same as above.
So using super cold water really isn't the best option either because you'll get "sweat" all over the lights and dripping onto your floor. I figure that I'd shoot for about 40%-45% humidity so that would give me about 16.5* difference between the fluid temp and the air temp for the dew point.
Does this stuff sound about right or is it completely wrong?
Hi All !! Nice Info!! Fresca Sol water cooled lights are setup at varioushydro stores, and the best setup I saw was a Mondo hood no silver, just white
and the Fresca Sol mounted inside with 2 brackets and 4 tap screws, a large 64
gal trash can with wheels, filled with 50 gals RO water/hydrogen peroxide that
will keep algae at bay, and the water hose hooked to the pump,and a large water stone bubbling at the bottom of trash can, then a chiller was doing it's job
keeping the water cold, but not freezing ....they say for every 10 feet of water hose you need a 100/gph pump, do the math for every 10 feet.....also they say if this light is in a parabolic hood that is the best light output....their ad has it mounted in a Silverstar 8" hood, it has hot spots, but they are gone with this light mounted inside they say.....as a witness to see a Silverstar 6" and an old
school parabolic hood with same 1000 w ballasts and same 940 w conversion
bulbs in each unit, the old school hood is doing better in yield/resin production
and with the same ferts being applied to both areas.....by the way the ballasts are from the mid 80's and still work fine, and when the BUZZ starts, change out the capacitor, and your good to go.....same company, bought a
newer ballast that they make 20 years later, lasted 2 years,changed capacitor and a year later it DIED completely same brand same company,they
are rippin us all off....anyway....still waiting for LiquidLumens to come to market before I shell out $ for either light,and also some FEEDBACK from cutomers also...........Peace! Price varies here from $375~$399
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PurplePotion
Member
You could easily run the water through a cheap car heater core, and use your room's exhaust to cool the water before the air actually exits the room. 
G
Guest
To stop algae and/or mold.rr14 said:
1love1earth
Member
the best way is to just run with a solution that prevents algae growth, it really doesn't need to be water.
G
Guest
What else do you have in mind?1love1earth said:
actually they can be run dry or wet.....obviously dry is just a failsafe....they recommend 25gals for every 600w or a chiller. I run a 4 gal resi with a 1/10th hp chiller on a 400 digi setup with a 400w HX Blue for veg and 430w HX HPS for flower. I have run straight R/O with no additives for over 2 months now and no slimy water or algea (actually the water level hasnt changed at all!) Now what does happen, is what little shit there is left in the R/O starts to bake itself to the pyrex right where the hottest part of the light is....no biggie, clean after every run (replace them seals for safety!)
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i only have one word of inspiration for all of you
POOL
ok i cant leave it at that but a pool is the perfect thing for this
you could heat your pool and cool your room at the same time
all youd need is some tubing and a pump for circulation
and the chlorine in the pool would stop the algae
maybe even make a hot tub in the backyard?
POOL
ok i cant leave it at that but a pool is the perfect thing for this
you could heat your pool and cool your room at the same time
all youd need is some tubing and a pump for circulation
and the chlorine in the pool would stop the algae
maybe even make a hot tub in the backyard?
lighterfuel
Member
Love to see these in a documented grow. No one yet?
