polyester fiberglass resin, from the boat store or home improvement.
-
As of today ICMag has his own Discord server. In this Discord server you can chat, talk with eachother, listen to music, share stories and pictures...and much more. Join now and let's grow together! Join ICMag Discord here! More details in this thread here: here.
I
irie-i
not sure if it's lavender
not sure if it's lavender
i think it looks kinda like lavender, judging by the photos of lavender in soma's book. the guy who got the seeds from a club was told "soma"
theres a closeup for ya'
the large buds are hash plant, the smaller "soma". both organically grown with my own compst tea
not sure if it's lavender
i think it looks kinda like lavender, judging by the photos of lavender in soma's book. the guy who got the seeds from a club was told "soma"
theres a closeup for ya'
the large buds are hash plant, the smaller "soma". both organically grown with my own compst tea
I
irie-i
mothership connection
mothership connection
yesterday i caulked all around where the drywall meets the cement floor. i could still see light getting in from outside so today i sealed the cement foundation with some super-babylonian expanding foam crap.
theres a chimney in the room, there was once a woodstove there. light and air could get through the seam so i sealed it too.
later i'll set up an emergency exhaust in the 6" hole where the stove pipe used to go..
the walls meet the foundation
i also managed to connect the board.
8 gauge wire from a 40 amp circuit into an intermatic timer. it then splits into 120v, the two right boxes, and also 240v through the breaker box on the left, one 15a breaker for each of the 4 left boxes. i also wired in a plugin right to one of the circuitbreakers because i have 9 lights. so 2 lights on each of 3 circuits and 3 lights on the 4th circuit. i think my ballasts run about 3a or 3.5a
i think i decided to cover the tables with 6mil clear plastic vapor barrier. epoxy seemed expensive, and harmful. the plastic is left over from the walls so i didnt have to buy anything. ive been spending tons so i gotta save pennies where i can.
irie I
mothership connection
yesterday i caulked all around where the drywall meets the cement floor. i could still see light getting in from outside so today i sealed the cement foundation with some super-babylonian expanding foam crap.
theres a chimney in the room, there was once a woodstove there. light and air could get through the seam so i sealed it too.
later i'll set up an emergency exhaust in the 6" hole where the stove pipe used to go..
the walls meet the foundation
i also managed to connect the board.
8 gauge wire from a 40 amp circuit into an intermatic timer. it then splits into 120v, the two right boxes, and also 240v through the breaker box on the left, one 15a breaker for each of the 4 left boxes. i also wired in a plugin right to one of the circuitbreakers because i have 9 lights. so 2 lights on each of 3 circuits and 3 lights on the 4th circuit. i think my ballasts run about 3a or 3.5a
i think i decided to cover the tables with 6mil clear plastic vapor barrier. epoxy seemed expensive, and harmful. the plastic is left over from the walls so i didnt have to buy anything. ive been spending tons so i gotta save pennies where i can.
irie I
V
vhGhost
great job!!!
CarharttKidd
Member
I don't know which hash plant you got, but HP is normally a damn good yielder. Looks like things are startin' to come together real nice.
Gotta love the super babylonian shit.
Gotta love the super babylonian shit.
I
irie-i
hanging the lights
hanging the lights
i want to hang the lights next and then the ducting. 6 of my lights are silverstar and the other 3 are kool tubes.
i bought a bunch of 8 ft garage door hangers, about 10 bucks apiece. theyre actually pretty weak. but heres one on the ceiling:
my plan was to attach a row of 3 lights lengthwise to one of these garage door hangers. i'm not sure if theyre strong enough and i cant figure out a good way to attach the lights to the hangers
if i double up, ie 2 per row, i could bolt them through those holes on the hood. i also thought of screwing them to the white metal , but that might be too week. the easiest might be just to chain each light to the hanger that's screwed to the ceiling
if anyone can come up with a better wayto hang my lights, i'm all ears
hanging the lights
i want to hang the lights next and then the ducting. 6 of my lights are silverstar and the other 3 are kool tubes.
i bought a bunch of 8 ft garage door hangers, about 10 bucks apiece. theyre actually pretty weak. but heres one on the ceiling:
my plan was to attach a row of 3 lights lengthwise to one of these garage door hangers. i'm not sure if theyre strong enough and i cant figure out a good way to attach the lights to the hangers
if i double up, ie 2 per row, i could bolt them through those holes on the hood. i also thought of screwing them to the white metal , but that might be too week. the easiest might be just to chain each light to the hanger that's screwed to the ceiling
if anyone can come up with a better wayto hang my lights, i'm all ears
G
Guest
irie-i said:
dude that's scary looking right there! how many amps are the switches in the time clock rated for? where is the neutral in your panel? can't have 120v w/out that. are you using your ground as your neutral? if so, NOT COOL!
i'm not trying to knock your work, but as an electrician, i see setups like that in industry magazines for code violations. you should clean that up big time.
I
irie-i
the timer's rated for 40a. ive been using that board for 4 years and i got it from a friend who used it for 3 years before me. when i set it up in a new room for the first time i had an electrician hook up the wire to the circuit it comes from , and the wire to the timer. he insisted that i add the 15a circuit breakers. the breakers are wired from the timer. the 120 is split in the timer, its not on a timer.
G
Guest
Looks OK to me,I also use 120V receptacles for my 240V fixtures I'm not cutting my power cord and adding another splice when I dont have to,I may want to use it for 120 again too
I
irie-i
thanks for the OK skeletor, i was hoping to hear from you
I
irie-i
first three lights hung
first three lights hung
thanks to BCboy for the inspiration
i was reluctant at first to use wood because wood burns, but i'm sure the lights will be far from too hot. i prefer hooks and chains to pulleys and string. its easier to make subtle differences in height from one light to the next. today i'll hang the rest of the lights
next stop- air cooling
first three lights hung
thanks to BCboy for the inspiration
i was reluctant at first to use wood because wood burns, but i'm sure the lights will be far from too hot. i prefer hooks and chains to pulleys and string. its easier to make subtle differences in height from one light to the next. today i'll hang the rest of the lights
next stop- air cooling
I
irie-i
manifold for air-cooled lights
manifold for air-cooled lights
i learned this from my local hydroshop dude:
this is how to make a manifold so 3 rows of lights can cool together:
the lights have 6" ports and i'm blowing with a 8" fan and manifold.
you'll need a piece of 8" duct cylinder, three 6" take-offs, a plastic pot, some screws and some tape.
first cut 6"ish holes in the duct. i used both a jigsaw and these tin-snips, tin-snips were easier.
next screw the 6" take-offs to the duct then tape
put a pot in the end and tape it, way cheaper then the ends made for ducting
screw some chain or what-have-you to the duct and hang from the ceiling.
the air will be pushed out the right side. i have another manifold for intake just the same. an 8" ventaxia fan will push air through the manifold and then the lights and then a manifold and then out
manifold for air-cooled lights
i learned this from my local hydroshop dude:
this is how to make a manifold so 3 rows of lights can cool together:
the lights have 6" ports and i'm blowing with a 8" fan and manifold.
you'll need a piece of 8" duct cylinder, three 6" take-offs, a plastic pot, some screws and some tape.
first cut 6"ish holes in the duct. i used both a jigsaw and these tin-snips, tin-snips were easier.
next screw the 6" take-offs to the duct then tape
put a pot in the end and tape it, way cheaper then the ends made for ducting
screw some chain or what-have-you to the duct and hang from the ceiling.
the air will be pushed out the right side. i have another manifold for intake just the same. an 8" ventaxia fan will push air through the manifold and then the lights and then a manifold and then out
CarharttKidd
Member
The light relay I have actually has 120v receptacles in it to use with 240v. http://www.discount-hydro.com/Images/MLC-4 Left large.jpg
That manifold set up is pretty trick. You're blowing air through instead of sucking it through? I always set them up to suck air through.
That manifold set up is pretty trick. You're blowing air through instead of sucking it through? I always set them up to suck air through.
I
irie-i
yeah, pushing air so leaks in the system are just letting air into the room rather than sucking smell and co2 etc out
I
irie-i
intake for air-cools
intake for air-cools
i bolted a piece of chain to the ventaxia, i think its like 550 cfm but i cant remember.
and hung it from the ceiling with a hook
then i attached insulated ducting (i only had a few feet) to the intake vent, first the inside duct, then i stapled and taped the insulation to the wall to help seal it up
the fan is connected to a manifold like the one in my previous post
i forgot to take a piccy of the filter... i found furnace filter w/o frame at the hardware store and cut a piece of and just taped it around the bottom end of the elbow, then pulled the duct over it.
i had a problem last cycle with dust and bugs getting sucked into the lights. there was also a problem with condensation. if the outside air was very cold, water would condense on the intake duct, fan, and manifold.
intake for air-cools
i bolted a piece of chain to the ventaxia, i think its like 550 cfm but i cant remember.
and hung it from the ceiling with a hook
then i attached insulated ducting (i only had a few feet) to the intake vent, first the inside duct, then i stapled and taped the insulation to the wall to help seal it up
the fan is connected to a manifold like the one in my previous post
i forgot to take a piccy of the filter... i found furnace filter w/o frame at the hardware store and cut a piece of and just taped it around the bottom end of the elbow, then pulled the duct over it.
i had a problem last cycle with dust and bugs getting sucked into the lights. there was also a problem with condensation. if the outside air was very cold, water would condense on the intake duct, fan, and manifold.
BudGood2006
Member
Man, and I was pumped with my room build! :jawdrop: Lookin good!! 
